CHAPTER XVI

SOME WITCHES OF TO-DAY

No study of witchcraft--however slight--could be considered complete

did it ignore its importance in the world of to-day. Dispossessed

though she may be, in a small intellectual district of the Western

World, the witch still queens it over the imagination of the vast

majority of mankind. What is more, as I have tried to show in an

earlier chapter, there are many indications that her reconquest of

her lost territories cannot be long delayed. With the close of the

nineteenth century--in which the cult of neo-materialism reached its

widest sway--the reaction against the great conspiracy may already

have begun. The Russo-Japanese war, with its defeat of an Occidental,

or semi-Occidental, Power at the hands of the Orient, may also be

held to typify the approaching victory of witchcraft over science.

It is true that the true Russian--the moujik, as apart from the

germanised, official class-has always preserved his faith in magic;

true also that the Japanese victories were won by a free adaptation of

European methods. But this can only obscure, without changing, the

great underlying phenomenon--that the lethargic East, the great home

of witchcraft and witch-lore, has at last aroused itself from its long

trance, and, by whatever methods chastised the fussy West that sought,

professedly for its own good, to change its lotus-dreams to nightmares.

It only remains for China to rise up and chastise the inconstant

Japanese for their treachery to a common ideal, to make the certainty

of the witch's victory more certain.

The position of the witch is, indeed, unassailable. Whatever the

result of the racial Armageddon of to-morrow, she can lose nothing.

If white civilisation stand the test of battle, she is in no worse

position than before; if it go down before the hosts of Asia, the

witch and her devotees will reap the fruits of victory. It may suit

the present Asiatic purpose to drape its limbs with tawdry European

vestments--but the patent-leather boots worn by the Babu cannot make an

Englishman of him. He may be a "failed B.A. of Allahabad University," a

persistent office-seeker, a bomb-throwing Revolutionist and a professed

Atheist, but he is none the less a believer in a million gods and ten

times as many witches. In his native village he has an hereditary

official magician, who controls the weather, wards off evil spells,

performs incantations and the like at fixed charges--and commands the

implicit confidence of educated and uneducated alike. What is more,

the Indian cult of witchcraft has flourished the more widely beneath

the contemptuous protection of the British Raj. In the old times there

were certain inconveniences attendant upon the witch or wizard-life

in India as elsewhere. Dreaded they were, as they are still, but

there were times when an outraged community turned under the pressure

of their malignant spells and meted out appropriate punishment full

measure. Witch-tests very similar to those employed by Matthew Hopkins

were everywhere in use. Among the Bhils, for example, and other allied

tribes, a form of "swimming" prevailed, in many ways an improvement

upon the fallible British methods. A stake being set up in a shallow

tank or lake, so that it protrudes above the surface, the suspected

witch must lay hold of it and descend to the bottom, there to remain

while an arrow is shot from a bow and brought back by a runner to the

firing-place. If the suspect can remain under water until then, she is

declared innocent; if she rises to breathe, she is a confessed witch.

This method offers so many opportunities of manipulation, either by the

suspect's friends or enemies, that it may well take precedence even of

the ordeal by fire, water, or ploughshare favoured among us in feudal

days, while the inventiveness of the English witch-finder is put to

open shame. Needless to say, Indian witchcraft had and has all the

material incidentals proper to a cult. There are substances susceptible

to spells, much as is the case with electricity; there are others, as,

for example, the boughs of the castor-oil plant, very effective in its

cure--so that to flog a witch with such rods is the best possible way

of rendering her harmless. There are proper ways of punishing her, too,

as, for example, to rub red pepper into her eyes. But unfortunately for

those susceptible to spells, the British Government has now stepped in

to protect, not the persecuted ryot, but the witch who persecutes him.

It is a crime to destroy, even to torture, a witch, however notorious;

and however strongly we may object to such iniquitous laws, it is

advisable to obey them, or to break them only very secretly indeed.

Owing to this unfortunate state of things, the witch riots unchecked

throughout Hindustan, and everywhere increases in importance. For, if

you are forbidden to suppress her, the only alternative is to seek

her favour, and if you have offended to appease her with gifts, or

pay some rival practitioner to weave yet more potent counter-spells.

Otherwise the odds are heavy that sooner or later, as you are returning

home through the jungle one day, she will lie in wait for you in the

disguise of a poisonous snake or man-eating tiger, or, failing that,

that you will die miserably of typhoid fever or plague.

The witch of Hindustan, though somewhat exalted in importance by the

protection extended to her by the British Government, differs but

little from her sisters in other parts of the Orient, in the Nearer

East, in Further India, China, even in enlightened Japan. Everywhere,

indeed, where any regularised form of religion exists, you may find her

actively protesting against its decrees, catering for its unsatisfied

devotees, or those who agree with that old woman who, discovered

offering up prayer to the Devil, explained that at her time of life

she thought it well to be in with both sides. Sometimes she takes

the place of the Devil; sometimes she provides a way of escape from

heavenly and infernal powers alike; sometimes she embodies the whole of

the supernatural. The creed of the African native, by him transported

to the Americas, may be described as devil-worship--but more properly

as witchcraft pure and simple. The African witch-doctor, as with the

majority of savage tribes, is himself a god, far more powerful than the

devilkins whose destinies he directs. More powerful than the European

magician of old times, he can command Heaven as well as Hell--and

whether by election, assumption, or descent, he is the sole arbiter of

fate, even though, perhaps out of deference to infiltrated European

ideas, he sometimes professes to act only as the mouthpiece of Destiny.

I have already referred to the persistence of the belief in witches in

our own and other European countries. Further examples might be quoted,

almost _ad infinitum_, all going to prove the same thing, that the

elementary school is powerless against the inherited tradition. Those

interested may find a striking example of belief in witchcraft and the

power of the evil eye in Somerset, including an incantation of some

merit, the whole too long for quotation, in "Somerset and Dorset Notes

and Queries" for December, 1894. Or again, in "La Mala Vita a Roma," by

Signori Niceforo and Sighele, a chapter is devoted to the present-day

witches of the Eternal City, showing conclusively that, among a host of

fortune-tellers and similar swindlers, the genuine "strege" flourish as

of yore, though they are perhaps less easily to be found by strangers

in search of them. Instead, however, of quoting further from the

experiences of others, I may adduce one or two instances of witches

with whom I have personally come in contact. I must admit that, as

providing any test of the _bona fides_ of the modern witch, they are

singularly unconvincing. They may, however, serve as some proof, not

only that the witch can still find many to do her reverence in modern

Christian Europe, but that, as a profession for women, that of the

witch is not without its potentialities in these overcrowded days.

If you cross over the Ponte Vecchio at Florence and, leaving the Via

dei Bardi on your left, continue along the Via Porta Romana for about

two hundred yards before turning sharply to the right, you will be

following a course which has been often trodden by those in search of

respite from witch-harrying. If you wish actually to consult the witch

you must persevere yet further, through a maze of rather mouldering

streets, until you come to a very tall house, painted a pale maroon

colour and pock-marked with brown stains where rain has eaten into

the plaster. You may recognise the house by the fact that it has two

sham windows frescoed on its side wall--it stands at a corner of two

malodorous lanes--and that one of them purports to be occupied by a

lady who is smiling at you invitingly. Smiled, I should say, for even

at the time of my last visit, two years ago, she was fading into the

plaster background, and by now she may have disappeared altogether

or have been replaced by a scowling gentleman, for all I know to the

contrary. I would not swear, for that matter, that even the house still

stands where it did, so quick is the march of modern improvement in

New Italy. But granted that you find the lane and the house and the

painted lady, granted further that Emilia has not changed her address,

you may be sure of speaking with a witch whose fame has permeated a

considerable portion of Tuscany. You will have to climb a wearisome

distance up some incredibly dirty and unpleasantly-smelling stairs to

reach her first, though, and it is possible that even then you may have

to wait until she has settled the destiny or cured the ills of some

client from a distant village. But having overcome all difficulties,

you may count upon a not unamiable reception from a stout, elderly

woman with a good-humoured eye and a plentiful crop of glossy black

hair turning slightly to grey. She will not be at all puffed up by

her powers or position, and she will be quite ready to accept any

little token of appreciative regard you may be inclined to press upon

her; but, to be quite candid, I doubt if you will leave her apartment

knowing much more of witchcraft after the modern Italian convention

than when you entered it. This partly from a certain diffidence on

her part to give away trade secrets, but still more because Emilia's

Italian is several shades worse than your own, so that unless you are

an amateur in Tuscan also, you will find her altogether unintelligible.

Only, if you should prove able to interchange ideas, you must by all

means ask her about the Old Religion, how far it still prevails among

the Apennines, what are its gods, and what their powers. If, further,

you ask her opinion as to the magical powers of certain Christian

saints, and especially of Saint Anthony, you will be amply repaid,

supposing you to be interested in such matters, for all the trouble you

and your nose have been put to in discovering Emilia's abiding-place.

My acquaintance with Emilia commenced in a certain hill-top village

within easy walking distance of Florence. I was there honoured by some

slight intimacy with a worthy contadine who had one fair daughter,

by name Zita. Having a lustrous eye, a praiseworthy figure, and a

neat ankle, she had also a sufficiency of admirers, whose fervour was

not the less that she was generally regarded as likely to receive an

acceptable marriage-portion, as such things go thereabouts. Nor was

Zita at all averse to admiration, accepting all that was offered with

admirable resignation. Had Zita happened to be the only young woman in

the village desirous of admiration I might never have become acquainted

with Emilia. As things were, Zita was one day attacked by an illness

and took to her bed. There was no apparent cause, and dark whispers

began to go abroad of jealousies, witchcraft, and what not. Their

justice was proved within three days by the discovery, in Zita's bed,

of an ear of grass, two hen's feathers, and a twig tied together by a

strand of horsehair. The whole had been neatly tucked away beneath the

mattress, where it might have remained undiscovered in a less cleanly

household than was the Morettis'. Doubt was at an end--obviously Zita

was bewitched, and the worst must be feared unless the spell could be

expeditiously removed.

In my ignorance I supposed that the local priest would be the

proper person to apply to in such a difficulty. But I was very soon

convinced of my mistake. To marry you, usher you into or out of the

world, the reverend gentleman may have his uses. But to ward off

the ills of witchcraft his ministrations are worse than useless,

seeing that they only serve to irritate the demons and thus make the

patient's sufferings more intense. All this provided, of course,

that he be not himself a stregone, a state of things more common

than might be supposed. But just as the priest is the one genuine

authority on Heaven, Purgatory, and the simpler issues of Hell, so, to

grapple with witchcraft, no one is so capable as a witch. And of all

available witches none was so efficient or, be it added, so moderate

in her charges as Emilia. She was, in fact, the family-witch of the

Moretti family, frequently called in and as frequently being entirely

successful in her treatment. She was, for that matter, long since

become a valued family friend, and--in fact, Emilia must be called

in without delay. I accompanied Zita's elder brother Luigi when he

visited Florence for the purpose, and with him and Emilia returned,

travelling part of the way by electric tramcar, the conductor being, as

it chanced, an acquaintance of my companions, and, as such, chatting

pleasantly with Emilia concerning her profession, contrasting it

favourably with his own. Exactly what counter-charms she used in

Zita's treatment I was not privileged to know; at least, I can testify

that they were entirely successful, and that within a very short time

Zita was herself again, breaking her usual quantity of hearts round and

about the village well, and openly jeering at the rival beauty to whom

she attributed her indisposition, for the ill-success that had attended

her. If I cannot claim that through Zita's bewitching and its cure I

gained much knowledge of Italian witchcraft as presently understood,

I may at least instance it as an example of the matter-of-fact way

in which its existence is accepted by the modern Tuscan peasant. He

regards it indeed with as little, or less, perturbation as the coming

of the motor-car. Just as the motor has become a danger on every road,

so the evil spirit throngs every field. You may take precautions

against him and the ill-deeds done by him at the witch's bidding--just

as you look carefully round before crossing a road nowadays--you

may string bells or weave feathers on your horse's head-dress as

preventatives, or make the requisite sign whenever you have reason to

believe yourself within the radius of an evil eye; but accidents will

happen--and it is always well to know the address of such a dependable

practitioner as Emilia, in case. For that matter, you may sometimes

desire to have a spell cast on your own account--it is difficult to

go through life without a quarrel or two--and in that case also

Emilia----But I am becoming indiscreet.

Another witch with whom I have had personal dealings lives--or did

live, for she was reported to be more than one hundred years of age at

the time--in a small town, locally termed a city, in North Carolina. I

must frankly admit that I learned even less of magical knowledge from

her than from her Italian colleague. She was a negress, and having

heard of her existence from the coloured coachman of the friend in

whose house I was staying, I determined to leave no stone unturned to

make her acquaintance. I hoped to glean from her lips some particulars

of the extent to which Voodooism--elsewhere referred to in this

volume--is still practised by the American negro--a fact of which I was

repeatedly assured by Southern friends. I was signally disappointed;

the old lady would not, in fact, condescend so much as to open her

lips to me at all. She lived with her son, who held a position of

some trust in connection with the Coloured Baptist Church, in one of

the wooden shanties which make up the Coloured town. They stand at

some little distance from the august quarters inhabited by the white

gentry, and the approach is rendered almost impossible upon a wet day

by oceans of brick-red mud of incredible prehensibility. The old lady

I found crouching over a fire in approved witch-fashion, her attention

entirely devoted to the contents of a pot set upon the hob. However it

might suggest a magical brew, it consisted in actual fact of broiling

chickens, very savoury to the smell and speaking well for the worldly

prosperity of Coloured Baptist office-holders. So concentrated were

her few remaining senses thereon, to the exclusion of all else, that

although her son supplemented my own efforts and those of my guide

in endeavouring to attract her attention, she would not so much as

turn her be-handkerchiefed head in my direction. So concerned was the

deacon--if that were his actual rank--at his mother's neglect, that

I was driven to console him by accepting him as guide through the

beauties of the Coloured cemetery near by. It is true that the cemetery

was not without its human--its pathetically human--interest, the grave

of each child being watched over by the humble toys it had played with

in its lifetime, and those of adults by the medicine-bottles, even down

to the last, half-emptied, made use of in their illness--this tribute

being intended as mute testimony to the care expended upon them. But it

could not console me for the lost opportunity. Nevertheless I can vouch

for it that the old lady was a witch, and of no small eminence, for her

son told me so himself, instancing examples of her power, and he was a

very good Christian.

Less elusive, although in some respects scarcely more enlightening,

was an interview I once had with a middle-aged witch of unpleasing

exterior in the kitchen of the suburban house tenanted by a relative.

To the practice of witchcraft this example added the collecting of old

bottles and kitchen refuse as a means of livelihood, and she lived, as

the police afterwards informed us, in a caravan temporarily moored on

a piece of waste land in the neighbourhood of Hammersmith Broadway.

The mistress of the house, having occasion to enter the kitchen,

there found her seated at the table, unravelling the mysteries of

Fate to the cook and scullery-maid by the aid of a very greasy pack

of playing-cards. Whatever her pretensions to knowledge of the lower

world, she had obviously been drinking--so much so, indeed, that I was

called upon for aid in ejecting her from the premises. A large woman,

of determined aspect and an aggressive tongue, this might have proved

a task of some difficulty had I not luckily bethought me of adjuring

her in German, before which she slowly retreated, cursing volubly in

English the while, until she had reached the area-steps, when we were

able to lock the back door upon her and so be rid of her. It appeared

on subsequent inquiry that she had obtained sums amounting in all to

some 17s. 6d. from among the domestics, the greater part being the

price of informing the aforesaid scullery-maid that her young man, then

serving his country in India, still remained faithful to her memory.

This information proved in due course to be well founded, the gallant

warrior returning six months later filled with amatory ardour. It is

true that the witch forgot to mention that by that time he would be

ousted from Griselda's heart by--if I remember aright--a dashing young

milkman, and that he would incur a fine of _circa_ 40s. for assaulting

and battering him thereafter. Nevertheless public feeling below-stairs

remained strongly in favour of the ejected sorceress, and no minor

domestic mishap could happen for weeks thereafter but it was set down

as directly resulting from the witch's departing curses.

One other incursion into the World of Magic lingers in my memory as

having taken place in a seaside town that shall be nameless. While

there passing a holiday with some friends, I frequently observed large

yellow handbills, and even posters, setting forth that a lady, who

from her name appeared to be of Oriental antecedents, was prepared

to cast horoscopes, read palms, and arrange all kinds of personally

conducted tours into the future at fees which could only be described

as ridiculous. It so happened that among the members of the party

was a young lady who was then in the throes of her last love-affair.

Naturally anxious to learn its future course, she, it appears,

consulted the seeress, whom I will call, though it was not her name,

Madame Fatimah. So remarkable did the results appear that the convert

felt it her duty to acquaint the rest of us therewith. The fame of

Madame Fatimah was not long in penetrating to my ears, and the day came

when I found myself waiting upon the witch's doorstep. She was lodged

in a back street some little distance from the centre of the town, in

one of those lodging-houses which make a point of advertising that

they possess a fine sea view, as indeed they may if you ascend to the

roof or extend your body out of window at an acute angle. Certainly no

less promising hunting-ground for the witch-finder could be imagined.

Madame occupied the first floor, and delivered her prognostications

amid an Early-Victorian atmosphere of horsehair and antimacassars that

was not altogether unimpressive, though speaking of the past rather

than of the future. She was middle-aged, of comfortable rotundity, and

dressed in a black silk dress, over which was thrown a Japanese kimono

embroidered with wild geese. Doubtless from the long residence in the

Orient, to which she took an early opportunity of referring, and where

she had studied her art at the fountain-head from the lips of a native

gentleman very well known in magic circles, and very likely to the Evil

One himself, judging from Madame Fatimah's account of his prowess, but

whose name I can only vaguely remember as sounding something like Yogi

Chandra Dass--doubtless owing, I say, to her long absence from England,

for I understood that she was originally of British birth, though

married early in life to a Turkish or Indian magician of some note, she

had acquired a habit of either leaving out her aspirates altogether or

putting them in the wrong place. She was as businesslike as she was

affable, and detailed the various methods by which I could be made

acquainted with my past and future, at charges ranging from 2s. 6d. to

10s., with a crisp incisiveness. Having chosen what Madame described

as "the crystal" at 5s., she at once seized both my hands in hers

and gazed narrowly into my face, giving me the opportunity of myself

reading her past nearly enough to know that onions had been included in

the ingredients of her lunch. Satisfied, I trust, of my respectability,

she produced a round ball of glass or crystal and placed it on a black

ebony stand upon a table. Then, having darkened the room, made several

gestures, which I took for incantations, with her hands, and muttered

certain mystic formulas, she commanded me to gaze into the crystal and

tell her what I saw in its depths. I regret to say that my willingness

to oblige now led me into an indiscretion. Being in actual fact unable

to see anything at all, I was yet so anxious to appear worthy that I

imagined something I might expect to see. It took the form of a brown

baby, two crossed swords, and what might be either an elephant lying

on his back with his legs in the air, or the church of Saint John,

Westminster, seen from the north-west, the details being too hazy for

me to speak with absolute certainty. Madame Fatimah seemed slightly

disconcerted at first, but I am bound to admit that she very soon

displayed abundance of _savoir faire_, to say nothing of a sense of

humour, for without any further waste of time she announced that I must

look forward to a life of misfortune, that whether in business, in

love, or in pleasure I could expect nothing but disaster, and that I

should inevitably suffer death by hanging in my sixty-seventh year. Let

me only add that I paid her modest fee with the greatest willingness,

and that I have ever since remained convinced that the modern witch is

no whit behind her mediæval predecessor in those qualities which led

her to so high a place in the public estimation.

I have instanced these few examples of my personal knowledge of witches

and witchcraft not as throwing any light either upon their claims

or their methods, but simply as some proof of what I have adduced

earlier in this volume, that belief in witchcraft, under one form or

another, is as widely prevalent in the modern civilised world as ever

it was, and that it is ever likely to remain so. Nor does the fact

that rogues and vagabonds not a few have availed themselves of its

time-honoured respectability as a cloak for their petty depredations

at all detract from its claims to respectful credence. That great

faith is yet to be whose fundamental truths cannot be turned to the

advantage of the charlatan, the swindler and the sham devotee--the

greater the faith, indeed, so much the greater is, and must be, the

number of its exploiters, battening upon the devotion of the faithful.

Nevertheless, it is not upon questions of credibility or faith alone

that the world-empire of the witch is founded. Demonstrably true or

proven false, the cult of witchcraft has existed from the beginning and

will continue until the end of history. Worshipped or reviled, praised,

persecuted or condemned, witchcraft and the witch have endured and

will endure while there remains one man or woman on the earth capable

of dreading the Unknown. Rejoice or grieve as you will the witch is

the expression of one of the greatest of human needs--that of escaping

from humanity and its limitable environment--of one of the greatest of

human world-movements, the revolt against the Inevitable. She does and

must exist, for the strongest of all reasons, that constituted as it is

humanity could not exist without her.

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