*It must be observed, in justice to the French Clergy, that

A RESIDENCE IN FRANCE,

DURING THE YEARS

1792, 1793, 1794, AND 1795;

DESCRIBED IN A SERIES OF LETTERS

FROM AN ENGLISH LADY;

With General And Incidental Remarks

On The French Character And Manners.

Prepared for the Press

By John Gifford, Esq.

Author of the History of France, Letter to Lord

Lauderdale, Letter to the Hon. T. Erskine, &c.

Second Edition.

_Plus je vis l'Etranger plus j'aimai ma Patrie._

--Du Belloy.

London: Printed for T. N. Longman, Paternoster Row. 1797.

1794

January 6, 1794.

If I had undertaken to follow the French revolution through all its

absurdities and iniquities, my indolence would long since have taken the

alarm, and I should have relinquished a task become too difficult and too

laborious. Events are now too numerous and too complicated to be

described by occasional remarks; and a narrator of no more pretensions

than myself may be allowed to shrink from an abundance of matter which

will hereafter perplex the choice and excite the wonder of the

historian.--Removed from the great scene of intrigues, we are little

acquainted with them--we begin to suffer almost before we begin to

conjecture, and our solicitude to examine causes is lost in the rapidity

with which we feel their effects.

Amidst the more mischievous changes of a philosophic revolution, you will

have learned from the newspapers, that the French have adopted a new aera

and a new calendar, the one dating from the foundation of their republic,

and other descriptive of the climate of Paris, and the productions of the

French territory. I doubt, however, if these new almanack-makers will

create so much confusion as might be supposed, or as they may desire, for

I do not find as yet that their system has made its way beyond the public

offices, and the country people are particularly refractory, for they

persist in holding their fairs, markets, &c. as usual, without any regard

to the hallowed decade of their legislators. As it is to be presumed

that the French do not wish to relinquish all commercial intercourse with

other nations, they mean possibly to tack the republican calendar to the

rights of man, and send their armies to propagate them together;

otherwise the correspondence of a Frenchman will be as difficult to

interpret with mercantile exactness as the characters of the Chinese.

The vanity of these philosophers would, doubtless, be gratified by

forcing the rest of Europe and the civilized world to adopt their useless

and chimerical innovations, and they might think it a triumph to see the

inhabitant of the Hebrides date _"Vendemiaire,"_ [Alluding to the

vintage.] or the parched West-Indian _"Nivose;"_ but vanity is not on

this, as it is on many other occasions, the leading principle.--It was

hoped that a new arrangement of the year, and a different nomenclature of

the months, so as to banish all the commemorations of Christianity, might

prepare the way for abolishing religion itself, and, if it were possible

to impose the use of the new calendar so far as to exclude the old one,

this might certainly assist their more serious atheistical operations;

but as the success of such an introduction might depend on the will of

the people, and is not within the competence of the bayonet, the old year

will maintain its ground, and these pedantic triflers find that they have

laboured to no more extensive a purpose, than to furnish a date to the

newspapers, or to their own decrees, which no one will take the pains to

understand.

Mankind are in general more attached to customs than principles. The

useful despotism of Peter, which subdued so many of the prejudices of his

countrymen, could not achieve the curtailment of their beards; and you

must not imagine that, with all the endurance of the French, these

continual attempts at innovation pass without murmurs: partial revolts

happen very frequently; but, as they are the spontaneous effect of

personal suffering, not of political manoeuvre, they are without concert

or union, of course easily quelled, and only serve to strengthen the

government.--The people of Amiens have lately, in one of these sudden

effusions of discontent, burnt the tree of liberty, and even the

representative, Dumont, has been menaced; but these are only the blows of

a coward who is alarmed at his own temerity, and dreads the chastisement

of it.*

* The whole town of Bedouin, in the south of France, was burnt

pursuant to a decree of the convention, to expiate the imprudence of

some of its inhabitants in having cut down a dead tree of liberty.

Above sixty people were guillotined as accomplices, and their bodies

thrown into pits, dug by order of the representative, Magnet, (then

on mission,) before their death. These executions were succeeded by

a conflagration of all the houses, and the imprisonment or

dispersion of their possessors. It is likewise worthy of remark,

that many of these last were obliged, by express order of Maignet,

to be spectators of the murder of their friends and relations.

This crime in the revolutionary code is of a very serious nature; and

however trifling it may appear to you, it depends only on the will of

Dumont to sacrifice many lives on the occasion. But Dumont, though

erected by circumstances into a tyrant, is not sanguinary--he is by

nature and education passionate and gross, and in other times might only

have been a good natured Polisson. Hitherto he has contented himself

with alarming, and making people tired of their lives, but I do not

believe he has been the direct or intentional cause of anyone's death.

He has so often been the hero of my adventures, that I mention him

familiarly to you, without reflecting, that though the delegate of more

than monarchical power here, he is too insignificant of himself to be

known in England. But the history of Dumont is that of two-thirds of the

Convention. He was originally clerk to an attorney at Abbeville, and

afterwards set up for himself in a neighbouring village. His youth

having been marked by some digressions from the "'haviour of reputation,"

his profession was far from affording him a subsistence; and the

revolution, which seems to have called forth all that was turbulent,

unprincipled, or necessitous in the country, naturally found a partizan

in an attorney without practice.--At the election of 1792, when the

King's fall and the domination of the Jacobins had spread so general a

terror that no man of character could be prevailed upon to be a candidate

for a public situation, Dumont availed himself of this timidity and

supineness in those who ought to have become the representatives of the

people; and, by a talent for intrigue, and a coarse facility of

phrase-making, (for he has no pretensions to eloquence,) prevailed on

the mob to elect him. His local knowledge, active disposition, and

subservient industry, render him an useful kind of drudge to any

prevailing party, and, since the overthrow of the Brissotines, he has

been entrusted with the government of this and some of the neighbouring

departments. He professes himself a zealous republican, and an apostle

of the doctrine of universal equality, yet unites in his person all the

attributes of despotism, and lives with more luxury and expence than

most of the _ci-devant_ gentry. His former habitation at Oisemont is not

much better than a good barn; but patriotism is more profitable here

than in England, and he has lately purchased a large mansion belonging

to an emigrant.

* "Britain no longer pays her patriots with her spoils:" and perhaps

it is matter of congratulation to a country, when the profession of

patriotism is not lucrative. Many agreeable inferences may be made

from it--the sentiment may have become too general for reward,

Ministers too virtuous to fear, or even the people too enlightened

to be deceived.

--His mode of travelling, which used at best to be in the _coche d'eau_

[Passage-boat.] or the diligence, is now in a coach and four, very

frequently accompanied by a led horse, and a party of dragoons. I fear

some of your patriots behold this with envy, and it is not to be wondered

at that they should wish to see a similar revolution in England. What a

seducing prospect for the assertors of liberty, to have the power of

imprisoning and guillotining all their countrymen! What halcyon days,

when the aristocratic palaces* shall be purified by solacing the fatigues

of republican virtue, and the levellers of all distinction travel with

four horses and a military escort!--But, as Robespierre observes, you are

two centuries behind the French in patriotism and information; and I

doubt if English republicanism will ever go beyond a dinner, and toasting

the manes of Hampden and Sydney. I would, therefore, seriously advise

any of my compatriots who may be enamoured of a government founded on the

rights of man, to quit an ungrateful country which seems so little

disposed to reward their labours, and enjoy the supreme delight of men a

systeme, that of seeing their theories in action.

* Many of the emigrants' houses were bought by members of the

Convention, or people in office. At Paris, crouds of inferior

clerks, who could not purchase, found means to get lodged in the

most superb national edifices: Monceaux was the villa of

Robespierre--St. Just occasionally amused himself at Raincy--Couthon

succeed the Comte d'Artois at Bagatelle-and Vliatte, a juryman of

the Revolutionary Tribunal, was lodged at the pavillion of Flora, in

the Tuilleries, which he seems to have occupied as a sort of Maitre

d'Hotel to the Comite de Salut Public.

_A propos_--a decree of the Convention has lately passed to secure the

person of Mr. Thomas Paine, and place seals on his papers. I hope,

however, as he has been installed in all the rights of a French citizen,

in addition to his representative inviolability, that nothing more than a

temporary retreat is intended for him. Perhaps even his personal

sufferings may prove a benefit to mankind. He may, like Raleigh, "in his

prison hours enrich the world," and add new proselytes to the cause of

freedom. Besides, human evils are often only blessings in a questionable

form--Mr. Paine's persecutions in England made him a legislator in

France. Who knows but his persecutions in France may lead to some new

advancement, or at least add another line to the already crouded

title-pages that announce his literary and political distinctions!

--Yours.

January, 1794.

The total suppression of all religious worship in this country is an

event of too singular and important a nature not to have been commented

upon largely by the English papers; but, though I have little new to add

on the subject, my own reflections have been too much occupied in

consequence for me to pass it over in silence.

I am yet in the first emotions of wonder: the vast edifice which had been

raised by the blended efforts of religion and superstition, which had

been consecrated by time, endeared by national taste, and become

necessary by habit, has now disappeared, and scarcely left a vestige of

its ruins. To those who revert only to the genius of the Catholic

religion, and to former periods of the history of France, this event must

seem incredible; and nothing but constant opportunities of marking its

gradual approach can reconcile it to probability. The pious christian

and the insidious philosopher have equally contributed to the general

effect, though with very different intentions: the one, consulting only

his reason, wished to establish a pure and simple mode of worship, which,

divested of the allurements of splendid processions and imposing

ceremonies, should teach the people their duty, without captivating their

senses; the other, better acquainted with French character, knew how

little these views were compatible with it, and hoped, under the specious

pretext of banishing the too numerous ornaments of the Catholic practice,

to shake the foundations of Christianity itself. Thus united in their

efforts, though dissimilar in their motives, all parties were eager at

the beginning of the revolution for a reform in the Church: the wealth of

the Clergy, the monastic establishments, the supernumerary saints, were

devoted and attacked without pity, and without regret; and, in the zeal

and hurry of innovation, the decisive measure, which reduced

ecclesiastics to small pensions dependent on the state, was carried,

before those who really meant well were aware of its consequences. The

next step was, to make the receiving these pensions subject to an oath,

which the selfish philosopher, who can coldly calculate on, and triumph

in, the weakness of human nature, foresaw would be a brand of discord,

certain to destroy the sole force which the Clergy yet possessed--their

union, and the public opinion.

Unfortunately, these views were not disappointed: conviction, interest,

or fear, prevailed on many to take the oath; while doubt, worldly

improvidence, or a scrupulous piety, deterred others. A schism took

place between the jurors and nonjurors--the people became equally

divided, and adhered either to the one or the other, as their habits or

prepossessions directed them. Neither party, as it may be imagined,

could see themselves deprived of any portion of the public esteem,

without concern, perhaps without rancour; and their mutual animosity, far

from gaining proselytes to either, contributed only to the immediate

degradation and future ruin of both. Those, however, who had not taken

the prescribed oath, were in general more popular than what were called

the constitutionalists, and the influence they were supposed to exert in

alienating the minds of their followers from the new form of government,

supplied the republican party with a pretext for proposing their

banishment.*

*The King's exertion of the power vested in him by the constitution,

by putting a temporary negative on this decree, it is well known,

was one of the pretexts for dethroning him.

At the King's deposition this decree took place, and such of the

nonjuring priests as were not massacred in the prisons, or escaped the

search, were to be embarked for Guiana. The wiser and better part of

those whose compliances entitled them to remain, were, I believe, far

from considering this persecution of their opponents as a triumph--to

those who did, it was of short duration. The Convention, which had

hitherto attempted to disguise its hatred of the profession by censure

and abuse of a part of its members, began now to ridicule the profession

itself: some represented it as useless--others as pernicious and

irreconcileable with political freedom; and a discourse* was printed,

under the sanction of the Assembly, to prove, that the only feasible

republic must be supported by pure atheism.

* Extracts from the Report of Anacharsis Cloots, member of the

Committee of Public Instruction, printed by order of the National

Convention:

"Our _Sans-culottes_ want no other sermon but the rights of man, no

other doctrine but the constitutional precepts and practice, nor any

other church than where the section or the club hold their meetings,

&c.

"The propagation of the rights of man ought to be presented to the

astonished world pure and without stain. It is not by offering

strange gods to our neighbours that we shall operate their

conversion. We can never raise them from their abject state by

erecting one altar in opposition to another. A trifling heresy is

infinitely more revolting than having no religion at all. Nature,

like the sun, diffuses her light without the assistance of priests

and vestals. While we were constitutional heretics, we maintained

an army of an hundred thousand priests, who waged war equally with

the Pope and the disciples of Calvin. We crushed the old priesthood

by means of the new, and while we compelled every sect to contribute

to the payment of a pretended national religion, we became at once

the abhorrence of all the Catholics and Protestants in Europe. The

repulsion of our religious belief counteracted the attraction of our

political principles.--But truth is at length triumphant, and all

the ill-intentioned shall no more be able to detach our neighbours

from the dominion of the rights of man, under pretext of a religious

dominion which no longer exists.--The purpose of religion is no how

so well answered as by presenting carte blanche to the abused world.

Every one will then be at liberty to form his spiritual regimen to

his own taste, till in the end the invincible ascendant of reason

shall teach him that the Supreme Being, the Eternal Being, is no

other than Nature uncreated and uncreatable; and that the only

Providence is the association of mankind in freedom and equality!--

This sovereign providence affords comfort to the afflicted, rewards

the good, and punishes the wicked. It exercises no unjust

partialities, like the providence of knaves and fools. Man, when

free, wants no other divinity than himself. This god will not cost

us a single farthing, not a single tear, nor a drop of blood. From

the summit of our mountain he hath promulgated his laws, traced in

evident characters on the tables of nature. From the East to the

West they will be understood without the aid of interpreters,

comments, or miracles. Every other ritual will be torn in pieces at

the appearance of that of reason. Reason dethrones both the Kings

of the earth, and the Kings of heaven.--No monarch above, if we wish

to preserve our republic below.

"Volumes have been written to determine whether or no a republic of

Atheists could exist. I maintain that every other republic is a

chimera. If you once admit the existence of a heavenly Sovereign,

you introduce the wooden horse within your walls!--What you adore by

day will be your destruction at night.

"A people of theists necessarily become revelationists, that is to

say, slaves of priests, who are but religious go-betweens, and

physicians of damned souls.

"If I were a scoundrel, I should make a point of exclaiming against

atheism, for a religious mask is very convenient to a traitor.

"The intolerance of truth will one day proscribe the very name of

temple 'fanum,' the etymology of fanaticism.

"We shall instantly see the monarchy of heaven condemned in its turn

by the revolutionary tribunal of victorious Reason; for Truth,

exalted on the throne of Nature, is sovereignly intolerant.

"The republic of the rights of man is, properly speaking, neither

theistical nor atheistical--it is nihilistical."

Many of the most eminent conforming Prelates and Clergy were arrested,

and even individuals, who had the reputation of being particularly

devout, were marked as objects of persecution. A new calendar was

devised, which excluded the ancient festivals, and limited public worship

to the decade, or tenth day, and all observance of the Sabbath was

interdicted. The prisons were crouded with sufferers in the cause of

religion, and all who had not the zeal or the courage of martyrs,

abstained from manifesting any attachment to the Christian faith.

While this consternation was yet recent, the Deputies on mission in the

departments shut up the churches entirely: the refuse of low clubs were

paid and encouraged to break the windows and destroy the monuments; and

these outrages, which, it was previously concerted, should at first

assume the appearance of popular tumult, were soon regulated and directed

by the mandates of the Convention themselves. The churches were again

opened, an atheistic ritual, and licentious homilies,* were substituted

for the proscribed service--and an absurd and ludicrous imitation of the

Greek mythology was exhibited, under the title of the Religion of

Reason.--

* I have read a discourse pronounced in a church at Paris, on the

decade, so indecent and profane, that the most humble audience of a

country-puppet show in England would not have tolerated it.

On the principal church of every town was inscribed, "The Temple of

Reason;" and a tutelary goddess was installed with a ceremony equally

pedantic, ridiculous, and profane.*

* At Havre, the goddess of Reason was drawn on a car by four

cart-horses, and as it was judged necessary, to prevent accidents,

that the horses should be conducted by those they were accustomed

to, the carters were likewise put in requisition and furnished with

cuirasses a l'antique from the theatre. The men, it seems, being

neither martial nor learned, were not au fait at this equipment,

and concluding it was only a waistcoat of ceremony, invested

themselves with the front behind, and the back part laced before,

to the great amusement of the few who were sensible of the mistake.

Yet the philosophers did not on this occasion disdain those adventitious

aids, the use of which they had so much declaimed against while they were

the auxiliaries of Christianity.*

* Mr. Gibbon reproaches the Christians with their adoption of the

allurements of the Greek mythology.--The Catholics have been more

hostilely despoiled by their modern persecutors, and may retort that

the religion of reason is a more gross appeal to the senses than the

darkest ages of superstition would have ventured on.

Music, processions, and decorations, which had been banished from the

ancient worship, were introduced in the new one, and the philosophical

reformer, even in the very attempt to establish a religion purely

metaphysical, found himself obliged to inculcate it by a gross and

material idolatry.*--

* The French do not yet annex any other idea to the religion of

reason than that of the female who performs the part of the goddess.

Thus, by submitting his abstractions to the genius of the people, and the

imperfections of our nature, perhaps the best apology was offered for the

errors of that worship which had been proscribed, persecuted, and

ridiculed.

Previous to the tenth day, on which a celebration of this kind was to

take place, a Deputy arrived, accompanied by the female goddess:* that

is, (if the town itself did not produce one for the purpose,) a Roman

dress of white satin was hired from the theatre, with which she was

invested--her head covered with a red cap, ornamented with oak leaves--

one arm was reclined on a plough, the other grasped a spear--and her feet

were supported by a globe, and environed by mutilated emblems of

seodality. [It is not possible to explain this costume as appropriate.]

* The females who personated the new divinity were usually selected

from amongst those who "might make sectaries of whom they bid but

follow," but who were more conspicuous for beauty than any other

celestial attribute.--The itinerant goddess of the principal towns

in the department de la Somme was the mistress of one Taillefer, a

republican General, brother to the Deputy of the same name.--I know

not, in this military government, whether the General's services on

the occasion were included in his other appointments. At Amiens, he

not only provided the deity, but commanded the detachment that

secured her a submissive adoration.

Thus equipped, the divinity and her appendages were borne on the

shoulders of Jacobins "en bonnet rouge," and escorted by the National

Guard, Mayor, Judges, and all the constituted authorities, who, whether

diverted or indignant, were obliged to preserve a respectful gravity of

exterior. When the whole cavalcade arrived at the place appointed, the

goddess was placed on an altar erected for the occasion, from whence she

harangued the people, who, in return, proffered their adoration, and sung

the Carmagnole, and other republican hymns of the same kind. They then

proceeded in the same order to the principal church, in the choir of

which the same ceremonies were renewed: a priest was procured to abjure

his faith and avow the whole of Christianity an imposture;* and the

festival concluded with the burning of prayer-books, saints,

confessionals, and every thing appropriated to the use of public

worship.**--

*It must be observed, in justice to the French Clergy, that it was

seldom possible to procure any who would consent to this infamy. In

such cases, the part was exhibited by a man hired and dressed for

the purpose.--The end of degrading the profession in the eyes of the

people was equally answered.

** In many places, valuable paintings and statues were burnt or

disfigured. The communion cups, and other church plate, were, after

being exorcised in Jacobin revels, sent to the Convention, and the

gold and silver, (as the author of the Decline and Fall of the Roman

Empire invidiously expresses himself,) the pearls and jewels, were

wickedly converted to the service of mankind; as if any thing whose

value is merely fictitious, could render more service to mankind

than when dedicated to an use which is equally the solace of the

rich and the poor--which gratifies the eye without exciting

cupidity, soothes the bed of sickness, and heals the wounds of

conscience. Yet I am no advocate for the profuse decorations of

Catholic churches; and if I seem to plead in their behalf, it is

that I recollect no instance where the depredators of them have

appropriated the spoil to more laudable purposes.

The greater part of the attendants looked on in silent terror and

astonishment; whilst others, intoxicated, or probably paid to act this

scandalous farce, danced round the flames with an appearance of frantic

and savage mirth.--It is not to be forgotten, that representatives of the

people often presided as the high priests of these rites; and their

official dispatches to the convention, in which these ceremonies were

minutely described, were always heard with bursts of applause, and

sanctioned by decrees of insertion in the bulletin.*

* A kind of official newspaper distributed periodically at the

expence of Government in large towns, and pasted up in public

places--it contained such news as the convention chose to impart,

which was given with the exact measure of truth or falsehood that

suited the purpose of the day.

I have now conducted you to the period in which I am contemplating France

in possession of all the advantages which a total dereliction of

religious establishments can bestow--at that consummation to which the

labours of modern philosophers have so long tended.

Ye Shaftesburys, Bolingbrokes, Voltaires, and must I add the name of

Gibbon,* behold yourselves inscribed on the registers of fame with a

Laplanche, a Chenier, an Andre Dumont, or a Fouche!**--

* The elegant satirist of Christianity will smile at the presumption

of so humble a censurer.--It is certain, the misapplication only of

such splendid talents could embolden me to mention the name of the

possessor with diminished respect.

** These are names too contemptible for notice, but for the mischief

to which they were instrumental--they were among the first and most

remarkable persecutors of religion.

Do not blush at the association; your views have been the same; and the

subtle underminer of man's best comfort in the principles of his

religion, is even more criminal than him who prohibits the external

exercise of it. Ridicule of the sacred writings is more dangerous than

burning them, and a sneer at the miracles of the gospel more mischievous

than disfiguring the statues of the evangelists; and it must be confessed

that these Anti-christian Iconoclasts themselves might probably have been

content to "believe and say their prayers," had not the intolerance of

philosophy made them atheists and persecutors.--The coarse legend of

"death is the sleep of eternity,"* is only a compendium of the fine-drawn

theories of the more elaborate materialist, and the depositaries of the

dead will not corrupt more by the exhibition of this desolating standard,

than the libraries of the living by the volumes which hold out the same

oblivion to vice, and discouragement to virtue.--

* Posts, bearing the inscription "la mort est un sommeil eternel,"

were erected in many public burying-grounds.--No other ceremony is

observed with the dead than enclosing the body in some rough boards,

and sending it off by a couple of porters, (in their usual garb,)

attended by a municipal officer. The latter inscribes on a register

the name of the deceased, who is thrown into a grave generally

prepared for half a score, and the whole business is finished.

The great experiment of governing a civilized people without religion

will now be made; and should the morals, the manners, or happiness of the

French, be improved by it, the sectaries of modern philosophy may

triumph. Should it happen otherwise, the Christian will have an

additional motive for cherishing his faith: but even the afflictions of

humanity will not, I fear, produce either regret or conviction in his

adversary; for the prejudices of philosophers and systemists are

incorrigible.*

* _"Ce ne sont point les philosophes qui connoissent le mieux les

hommes. Ils ne les voient qu'a travers les prejuges, et je ne fache

aucun etat ou l'on en ait tant."_--J. J. Rousseau. ["It is not among

philosophers that we are to look for the most perfect knowledge of

human nature.--They view it only through the prejudices of

philosophy, and I know of no profession where prejudices are more

abundant."]

Providence, Jan. 29.

We are now quite domesticated here, though in a very miserable way,

without fire, and with our mattresses, on the boards; but we nevertheless

adopt the spirit of the country, and a total absence of comfort does not

prevent us from amusing ourselves. My friend knits, and draws landscapes

on the backs of cards; and I have established a correspondence with an

old bookseller, who sends me treatises of chemistry and fortifications,

instead of poetry and memoirs. I endeavoured at first to borrow books of

our companions, but this resource was soon exhausted, and the whole

prison supplied little more than a novel of Florian's, _Le Voyage du jeune

Anarcharsis,_ and some of the philosophical romances of Voltaire.--They

say it ennuyes them to read; and I observe, that those who read at all,

take their books into the garden, and prefer the most crowded walks.

These studious persons, who seem to surpass Crambe himself in the faculty

of abstraction, smile and bow at every comma, without any appearance of

derangement from such frequent interruptions.

Time passes sorrowly, rather than slowly; and my thoughts, without being

amused, are employed. The novelty of our situation, the past, the

future, all offer so many subjects of reflection, that my mind has more

occasion for repose than amusement. My only external resource is

conversing with our fellow-prisoners, and learning the causes of their

detention. These relations furnish me with a sort of "abstract of the

times," and mark the character of the government better than

circumstances of more apparent consequence; for what are battles, sieges,

and political machinations, but as they ultimately affect the happiness

of society? And when I learn that the lives, the liberty, and property

of no class are secure from violation, it is not necessary one should be

at Paris to form an opinion of this period of the revolution, and of

those who conduct it.

The persecution which has hitherto been chiefly directed against the

Noblesse, has now a little subsided, and seems turned against religion

and commerce. People are daily arrested for assisting at private masses,

concealing images, or even for being possessors of religious books.

Merchants are sent here as monopolizers, and retailers, under various

pretexts, in order to give the committees an opportunity of pillaging

their shops. It is not uncommon to see people of the town who are our

guards one day, become our fellow-prisoners the next; and a few weeks

since, the son of an old gentleman who has been some time here, after

being on guard the whole day, instead of being relieved at the usual

hour, was joined by his wife and children, under the escort of a couple

of dragoons, who delivered the whole family into the custody of our

keeper; and this appears to have happened without any other motive than

his having presented a petition to Dumont in behalf of his father.

An old man was lately taken from his house in the night, and brought

here, because he was said to have worn the cross of St. Louis.--The fact

is, however, that he never did wear this obnoxious distinction; and

though his daughter has proved this incontrovertibly to Dumont, she

cannot obtain his liberty: and the poor young woman, after making two or

three fruitless journeys to Paris, is obliged to content herself with

seeing her father occasionally at the gate.

The refectory of the convent is inhabited by hospital nuns. Many of the

hospitals in France had a sort of religious order annexed to them, whose

business it was to attend the sick; and habit, perhaps too the

association of the offices of humanity with the duties of religion, had

made them so useful in their profession, that they were suffered to

remain, even after the abolition of the regular monasteries. But the

devastating torrent of the revolution at length reached them: they were

accused of bestowing a more tender solicitude on their aristocratic

patients than on the wounded volunteers and republicans; and, upon these

curious charges, they have been heaped into carts, without a single

necessary, almost without covering, sent from one department to another,

and distributed in different prisons, where they are perishing with cold,

sickness, and want! Some people are here only because they happened to

be accidentally at a house when the owner was arrested;* and we have one

family who were taken at dinner, with their guests, and the plate they

were using!

* It was not uncommon for a mandate of arrest to direct the taking

"Citizen Such-a-one, and all persons found in his house."

A grand-daughter of the celebrated De Witt, who resided thirty leagues

from hence, was arrested in the night, put in an open cart, without any

regard to her age, her sex, or her infirmities, though the rain fell in

torrents; and, after sleeping on straw in different prisons on the road,

was deposited here. As a Fleming, the law places her in the same

predicament with a very pretty young woman who has lived some months at

Amiens; but Dumont, who is at once the maker, the interpreter, and

executor of the laws, has exempted the latter from the general

proscription, and appears daily with her in public; whereas poor Madame

De Witt is excluded from such indulgence, being above seventy years old--

and is accused, moreover, of having been most exemplarily charitable,

and, what is still worse, very religious.--I have given these instances

not as any way remarkable, and only that you may form some idea of the

pretexts which have served to cover France with prisons, and to conduct

so many of its inhabitants to the scaffold.

It is impossible to reflect on a country in such a situation, without

abhorring the authors of it, and dreading the propagation of their

doctrines. I hope they neither have imitators nor admirers in England;

yet the convention in their debates, the Jacobins, and all the French

newspapers, seem so sanguine in their expectation, and so positive in

their assertions of an English revolution, that I occasionally, and in

spite of myself, feel a vague but serious solicitude, which I should not

have supposed the apprehension of any political evil could inspre. I

know the good sense and information of my countrymen offer a powerful

resource against the love of change and metaphysical subtilties; but, it

is certain, the French government have much depended on the spirit of

party, and the zeal of their propagandistes. They talk of a British

convention, of a conventional army, and, in short, all France seem

prepared to see their neighbours involved in the same disastrous system

with themselves. The people are not a little supported in this error by

the extracts that are given them from your orators in the House of

Commons, which teem with nothing but complaints against the oppression of

their own country, and enthusiastic admiration of French liberty. We

read and wonder--collate the Bill of Rights with the Code

Revolutionnaire, and again fear what we cannot give credit to.

Since the reports I allude to have gained ground, I have been forcibly

stricken by a difference in the character of the two nations. At the

prospect of a revolution, all the French who could conveniently leave the

country, fled; and those that remained (except adventurers and the

banditti that were their accomplices) studiously avoided taking any part.

But so little are our countrymen affected with this selfish apathy, that

I am told there is scarcely one here who, amidst all his present

sufferings, does not seem to regret his absence from England, more on

account of not being able to oppose this threatened attack on our

constitution, than for any personal motive.--The example before them

must, doubtless, tend to increase this sentiment of genuine patriotism;

for whoever came to France with but a single grain of it in his

composition, must return with more than enough to constitute an hundred

patriots, whose hatred of despotism is only a principle, and who have

never felt its effects.--Adieu.

February 2, 1794.

The factions which have chosen to give France the appellation of a

republic, seem to have judged, and with some reason, that though it might

answer their purpose to amuse the people with specious theories of

freedom, their habits and ideas were far from requiring that these fine

schemes should be carried into practice. I know of no example equal to

the submission of the French at this moment; and if "departed spirits

were permitted to review the world," the shades of Richelieu or Louvois

might hover with envy round the Committee of Public Welfare, and regret

the undaring moderation of their own politics.

How shall I explain to an Englishman the doctrine of universal

requisition? I rejoice that you can imagine nothing like it.--After

establishing, as a general principle, that the whole country is at the

disposal of government, succeeding decrees have made specific claims on

almost every body, and every thing. The tailors, shoemakers,* bakers,

smiths, sadlers, and many other trades, are all in requisition--carts,

horses, and carriages of every kind, are in requisition--the stables and

cellars are put in requisition for the extraction of saltpetre, and the

houses to lodge soldiers, or to be converted into prisons.

* In order to prevent frauds, the shoemakers were obliged to make

only square-toed shoes, and every person not in the army was

forbidden to wear them of this form. Indeed, people of any

pretentions to patriotism (that is to say, who were much afraid) did

not venture to wear any thing but wooden shoes; as it had been

declared anti-civique, if not suspicious, to walk in leather.

--Sometimes shopkeepers are forbidden to sell their cloth, nails, wine,

bread, meat, &c. There are instances where whole towns have been kept

without the necessaries of life for several days together, in consequence

of these interdictions; and I have known it proclaimed by beat of drum,

that whoever possessed two uniforms, two hats, or two pair of shoes,

should relinquish one for the use of the army! Yet with all these

efforts of despotism, the republican troops are in many respects ill

supplied, the produce being too often converted to the use of the agents

of government, who are all Jacobins, and whose peculations are suffered

with impunity, because they are too necessary, or perhaps too formidable

for punishment.

These proceedings, which are not the less mischievous for being absurd,

must end in a total destruction of commerce: the merchant will not import

what he may be obliged to sell exclusively to government at an arbitrary

and inadequate valuation.--Those who are not imprisoned, and have it in

their power, are for the most part retired from business, or at least

avoid all foreign speculations; so that France may in a few months depend

only on her internal resources. The same measures which ruin one class,

serve as a pretext to oppress and levy contributions on the rest.--In

order to make this right of seizure still more productive, almost every

village has its spies, and the domiciliary visits are become so frequent,

that a man is less secure in his own house, than in a desert amidst

Arabs. On these occasions, a band of Jacobins, with a municipal officer

at their head, enter sans ceremonie, over-run your apartments, and if

they find a few pounds of sugar, soap, or any other article which they

choose to judge more than sufficient for immediate consumption, they take

possession of the whole as a monopoly, which they claim for the use of

the republic, and the terrified owner, far from expostulating, thinks

himself happy if he escapes so well.--But this is mere vulgar tyranny:

a less powerful despotism might invade the security of social life, and

banish its comforts. We are prone to suffer, and it requires often

little more than the will to do evil to give us a command over the

happiness of others. The Convention are more original, and, not

satisfied with having reduced the people to the most abject slavery,

they exact a semblance of content, and dictate at stated periods the

chastisement which awaits those who refuse to smile.

The splendid ceremonies at Paris, which pass for popular rejoicings,

merit that appellation less than an auto de fe. Every movement is

previously regulated by a Commissioner appointed for the purpose,

(to whom en passant these fetes are very lucrative jobs,) a plan of the

whole is distributed, in which is prescribed with great exactness, that

at such and such parts the people are to "melt into tears," at others

they are to be seized with a holy enthusiasm, and at the conclusion of

the whole they are to rend the air with the cry of "Vive la Convention!"

--These celebrations are always attended by a military force, sufficient

to ensure their observance, besides a plentiful mixture of spies to

notice refractory countenances or faint acclamations.

The departments which cannot imitate the magnificence of Paris, are

obliged, nevertheless, to manifest their satisfaction. At every occasion

on which a rejoicing is ordered, the same kind of discipline is

preserved; and the aristocrats, whose fears in general overcome their

principles, are often not the least zealous attendants.

At the retaking of Toulon, when abandoned by our countrymen, the National

Guards were every where assembled to participate in the festivity, under

a menace of three days imprisonment. Those persons who did not

illuminate their houses were to be considered as suspicious, and treated

as such: yet, even with all these precautions, I am informed the business

was universally cold, and the balls thinly attended, except by

aristocrats and relations of emigrants, who, in some places, with a

baseness not excused even by their terrors, exhibited themselves as a

public spectacle, and sang the defeats of that country which was armed in

their defence.

I must here remark to you a circumstance which does still less honour to

the French character; and which you will be unwilling to believe. In

several towns the officers and others, under whose care the English were

placed during their confinement, were desirous sometimes on account of

the peculiar hardship of their situation as foreigners, to grant them

little indulgences, and even more liberty than to the French prisoners;

and in this they were justified on several considerations, as well as

that of humanity.--They knew an Englishman could not escape, whatever

facility might be given him, without being immediately retaken; and that

if his imprisonment were made severe, he had fewer external resources and

alleviations than the natives of the country: but these favourable

dispositions were of no avail--for whenever any of our countrymen

obtained an accommodation, the jealousy of the French took umbrage, and

they were obliged to relinquish it, or hazard the drawing embarrassment

on the individual who had served them.

You are to notice, that the people in general, far from being averse to

seeing the English treated with a comparative indulgence, were even

pleased at it; and the invidious comparisons and complaints which

prevented it, proceeded from the gentry, from the families of those who

had found refuge in England, and who were involved in the common

persecution.--I have, more than once, been reproached by a female

aristocrat with the ill success of the English army; and many, with whom

I formerly lived on terms of intimacy, would refuse me now the most

trifling service.--I have heard of a lady, whose husband and brother are

both in London, who amuses herself in teaching a bird to repeat abuse of

the English.

It has been said, that the day a man becomes a slave, he loses half his

virtue; and if this be true as to personal slavery, judging from the

examples before me, I conclude it equally so of political bondage.--The

extreme despotism of the government seems to have confounded every

principle of right and wrong, every distinction of honour and dishonour

and the individual, of whatever class, alive only to the sense of

personal danger, embraces without reluctance meanness or disgrace, if it

insure his safety.--A tailor or shoemaker, whose reputation perhaps is

too bad to gain him a livelihood by any trade but that of a patriot,

shall be besieged by the flatteries of people of rank, and have levees as

numerous as Choiseul or Calonne in their meridian of power.

When a Deputy of the Convention is sent to a town on mission, sadness

takes possession of every heart, and gaiety of every countenance. He is

beset with adulatory petitions, and propitiating gifts; the Noblesse who

have escaped confinement form a sort of court about his person; and

thrice happy is the owner of that habitation at which he condescends to

reside.--*

* When a Deputy arrives, the gentry of the town contend with jealous

rivalship for the honour of lodging him; and the most eloquent

eulogist of republican simplicity in the Convention does not fail to

prefer a large house and a good table, even though the unhallowed

property of an aristocrat.--It is to be observed, that these

Missionaries travel in a very patriarchal style, accompanied by

their wives, children, and a numerous train of followers, who are

not delicate in availing themselves of this hospitality, and are

sometimes accused of carrying off the linen, or any thing else

portable--even the most decent behave on these occasions as though

they were at an inn.

--A Representative of gallantry has no reason to envy either the

authority of the Grand Signor, or the licence of his seraglio--he is

arbiter of the fate of every woman that pleases him; and, it is supposed,

that many a fair captive has owed her liberty to her charms, and that the

philosophy of a French husband has sometimes opened the doors of his

prison.

A Residence in France During the Years 1792, 1793, 1794 and 1795, Part III., 1794 Described in a Series of Letters from an English Lady: with General and Incidental Remarks on the French Character and Manners · 第 1 / 17 段