MARY IS TAUGHT TO MAKE PASTRY, PATTIES AND "ROSEN KUCHEN."
Mary's Aunt taught her to make light, flaky pastry and pies of every
description. In this part of Bucks County a young girl's education was
considered incomplete without a knowledge of pie-making. Some of the
commonest varieties of pies made at the farm were "Rivel Kuchen," a
pie crust covered with a mixture of sugar, butter and flour crumbled
together; "Snitz Pie," composed of either stewed dried apples or
peaches, finely mashed through a colander, sweetened, spread over a
crust and this covered with a lattice-work of narrow strips of pastry
laid diamond-wise over the top of the pie; "Crumb" pies, very popular
when served for breakfast, made with the addition of molasses or
without it; Cheese pies, made of "Smier Kase;" Egg Custard, Pumpkin
and Molasses pie.
Pies were made of all the different fruits and berries which grew on
the farm. When fresh fruits were not obtainable, dried fruits and
berries were used. Pie made from dried, sour cherries was an especial
favorite of Farmer Landis, and raisin or "Rosina" pie, as it was
usually called at the farm, also known as "Funeral" pie, was a standby
at all seasons of the year, as it was invariably served at funerals,
where, in old times, sumptuous feasts were provided for relatives and
friends, a regular custom for years among the "Pennsylvania Germans,"
and I have heard Aunt Sarah say, "In old times, the wives of the
grave-diggers were always expected to assist with the extra baking at
the house where a funeral was to be held."
It would seem as if Bucks County German housewives did not like a
dessert without a crust surrounding it.
The Pennsylvania German farmers' wives, with few exceptions, serve the
greatest variety of pies at a meal of any class of people I know; not
alone as a dessert at twelve o'clock dinner, but frequently serve
several different varieties of pie at breakfast and at each meal
during the day. No ill effects following the frequent eating of pie I
attribute to their active life, the greater part of which, during the
day, was usually spent in the open air, and some credit may he due the
housewife for having acquired the knack of making _good_ pie crust,
which was neither very rich nor indigestible, if such a thing be
possible.
The combination of fruit and pastry called pie is thought to be of
American invention. Material for pies at a trifling cost were
furnished the early settlers in Bucks County by the large supply of
fruit and vegetables which their fertile farms produced, and these
were utilized by the thrifty German housewives, noted for their wise
management and economy.
The Professor's wife taught Mary to make superior pastry, so flaky and
tender as to fairly melt in one's mouth; but Mary never could learn
from her the knack of making a dainty, crimped edge to her pies with
thumb and forefinger, although it looked so very simple when she
watched "Frau Schmidt" deftly roll over a tiny edge as a finish to the
pie.
Mary laughingly told the Professor's wife (when speaking of pies) of
the brilliant remark she made about lard, on first coming to the farm.
Her Aunt Sarah, when baking pies one day, said to her, "Look, Mary,
see this can of snowy lard, rendered from pork, obtained from our fat
pigs last winter!"
"Why, Aunt Sarah!" exclaimed Mary, "is lard made from pork fat? I
always thought lard was made from milk and butter was made from
cream."
The Professor's wife possessed, besides a liking for pies, the
German's fondness for anything pertaining to fritters. She used a set
of "wafer and cup irons" for making "Rosen Kuchen," as she called the
flat, saucer-like wafer; and the cup used for serving creamed
vegetables, salads, etc., was similar to pattie cases.
"The 'Wafer and Cup Irons,'" said Frau Schmidt, "were invented by a
friend of mine, also a teacher and an excellent cook, besides; she
gave me several of her original recipes, all to be served on wafers or
in patties. You shall have a set of the irons when you start
housekeeping. Mary. You will be surprised at the many uses you will
find for them. They are somewhat similar to Rosette Irons, but I think
them an improvement. They are pieces of fluted steel fastened to a
long handle and one is cup-shaped. This latter is particularly fine
for making patties. Then the cup may be filled and served on
saucer-like wafers, which I call 'Rosen Kuchen,' or the 'Rosen Kuchen'
may be simply dusted with a mixture consisting of one cup of sugar,
one teaspoonful of cinnamon and a quarter teaspoonful of powdered
cardamon seed, and served on a plate, as dainty cakes or wafers."
Aunt Sarah, when cooking fritters, always used two-thirds lard and
one-third suet for deep frying, but "Frau Schmidt" taught Mary to use
a good brand of oil for this purpose, as she thought food fried in oil
more digestible and wholesome than when fried in lard. The patties or
wafers were easily made. "Frau Schmidt" placed the long-handled iron
in hot fat, the right temperature for frying fritters. When the iron
was heated she quickly and carefully wiped off any surplus fat, then
at once dipped the hot wafer iron into a bowl containing the batter
she had prepared (the recipe for which she gave Mary), then dipped the
iron into the hot fat; when the batter had lightly browned she gently
dropped it from the iron onto brown paper, to absorb any fat which
might remain. These are quickly and easily prepared and, after a few
trials, one acquires proficiency. Pattie cases or cup-shapes are made
in a similar manner. They are not expensive and may be kept several
weeks in a cool, dry place. When wanted for table use, place in a hot
oven a few minutes to reheat. They make a dainty addition to a
luncheon by simply dusting the "Rosen Kuchen" with pulverised sugar.
Creamed vegetables of any variety may be served on them by placing a
spoon of cream dressing on top of each, over which grate yolk of hard
boiled egg; or use as a foundation on which to serve salads; or serve
fruit on them with whipped cream. The patties or cups may be used to
serve creamed chicken, oysters, or sweetbreads if no sugar be used in
the batter. These pattie cases are exactly like those sold at
delicatessen counters, in city stores, and are considered quite an
addition to a dainty luncheon. They are rather expensive to buy, and
we country housewives cannot always procure them when wanted, and they
may be made at home with a small amount of labor and less expense.
"The Germans make fritters of almost everything imaginable," continued
the Professor's wife. "One day in early Spring I saw a German neighbor
gathering elderberry blossoms, of which she said she intended making
fritters. I asked her how they were made, being curious, I will
confess. She sent me a plate of the fritters and they were delicious.
I will give you her recipe should you care for it. Mary, have you ever
eaten a small, sweet wafer called 'Zimmet Waffle?' My mother made them
at Christmas time, in Germany. Should I be able to procure a small
'waffle,' or I should call it wafer, iron, in the city, I will teach
you how they are made. I think them excellent. My mother made a cake
dough similar to that of pound cake. To one portion she added
cinnamon, to the other chocolate, and the last portion was flavored
with vanilla. A piece of dough the size of a small marble was placed
in the wafer iron, which was then pressed together and held over the
fire in the range, by a long handle, until the wafer was crisp and
brown. They are delicious and will keep indefinitely."
The Professor's wife finished speaking to Mary, and turned to her
daughter Elizabeth, saying, "It is time I mix the dough if we are to
have 'Boova Shenkel' for dinner today. I see the potatoes have steamed
tender."
"Oh, goody!" said Pauline, "I just love 'Boova Shenkel!'"
"Then," said her Mother, "run down into the cellar and get me three
eggs for them, and Mary, I'll write off the recipe for you, if you
wish it, as I feel sure you'll like them as well as Pauline. And
Elizabeth, dust powdered sugar over this plate of 'Rosen Kuchen,' and
you, Mary and Pauline, leave this hot kitchen and have lunch out in
the 'Espalier,' as your Father calls it."
"I think," said Mary to Elizabeth, after they were seated in the
shade, prepared to enjoy the "Rosen Kuchen," "this little, natural,
home-grown summer-house is the oddest and prettiest little place I've
ever seen."
"Yes," assented Elizabeth, "Father said he made it as nearly like as
possible to a large one at Weisbaden, no great distance from his old
home in Germany. He says the 'Frauer Esche,' meaning Weeping Ash, at
Weisbaden, had tables and benches placed beneath spreading branches of
the tree, and picnics were frequently held there. This one was made by
the larger branches of the Weeping Ash, turning downward, fastened by
pieces of leather to a framework nailed to the top of posts in the
ground, about two yards apart, surrounding the tree. The posts, you
notice, are just a little higher than an ordinary man, and when the
leaves thickly cover the tops and sides, protecting one from the
sun's rays, it is an ideal Summer-house. We frequently sit here
evenings and afternoons; Mother brings her sewing and Pauline her doll
family, which, you know, is quite numerous."
"I never saw a Summer-house at all like it," said Mary.
The Professor's wife not only taught Mary the making of superior
pastry and the cooking of German dishes, but what was of still greater
importance, taught her the value of different foods; that cereals of
every description, flour and potatoes, are starchy foods; that cream,
butter, oil, etc., are fat foods; that all fruits and vegetables
contain mineral matter; and that lean meat, eggs, beans, peas and milk
are muscle-forming foods. These are things every young housekeeper
should have a knowledge of to be able to plan nourishing, wholesome,
well-balanced meals for her family. And not to serve at one time a
dish of rice, cheese and macaroni, baked beans and potatoes. Serve
instead with one of these dishes fruit, a vegetable or salad. She
said, "beans have a large percentage of nutriment and should be more
commonly used." She also said graham and corn bread are much more
nutritious than bread made from fine white flour, which lacks the
nutritious elements. Indian corn is said to contain the largest amount
of fat of any cereal. It is one of our most important cereal foods and
should be more commonly used by housewives; especially should it be
used by working men whose occupation requires a great amount of
physical exercise. Particularly in cold weather should it be
frequently served, being both cheap and wholesome.
The Professor's wife laughingly remarked to Mary, "When I fry fritters
or 'Fast Nacht' cakes, Fritz and Pauline usually assist such a large
number of them in disappearing before I have finished baking, I am
reminded of 'Doughnutting Time,' by J.W. Foley. Have you never read
the poem? I sometimes feel that it must have been written by me."
[A]"DOUGHNUTTING TIME."
Wunst w'en our girl wuz makin' pies an' doughnuts--'ist a Lot--
We stood around with great, big eyes, 'cuz we boys like 'em hot;
And w'en she dropped 'em in the lard, they sizzled 'ist like fun,
And w'en she takes 'em out, it's hard to keep from takin' one.
And 'en she says: "You boys'll get all spattered up with grease."
And by-um-by she says she'll let us have 'ist one apiece;
So I took one for me, and one for little James McBride,
The widow's only orfunt son, 'ats waitin' there outside.
An' Henry, he took one 'ist for himself an' Nellie Flynn,
'At's waitin' at the kitchen door and dassent to come in,
Becuz her Mother told her not; and Johnny, he took two,
'Cus Amey Brennan likes 'em hot, 'ist like we chinnern do.
'En Henry happened 'ist to think he didn't get a one
For little Ebenezer Brink, the carpet beater's son,
Who never gets 'em home, becuz he says, he ain't quite sure,
But thinks perhaps the reason wuz, his folkeses are too poor.
An 'en I give my own away to little Willie Biggs
'At fell down his stairs one day, an' give him crooked legs,
'Cuz Willie always seems to know w'en our girl's goin' to bake.
He wouldn't ast for none. Oh, no! But, my! he's fond of cake.
So I went back an' 'en I got another one for me,
Right out the kittle smokin' hot, an' brown as it could be;
An' John he got one, too, becuz he give his own to Clare,
An' w'en our girl she looked, there wuz 'ist two small doughnuts
there.
My! she wuz angry w'en she looked an' saw 'ist them two there,
An' says she knew 'at she had cooked a crock full an' to spare;
She says it's awful 'scouragin' to bake and fret an' fuss,
An' w'en she thinks she's got 'em in the crock, they're all in us.
[Footnote A: The poem "Doughnutting Time," from "Boys and Girls,"
published by E.P. Dutton, by permission of the author, James W.
Foley.]
* * * * * * *
The Professor's wife gave Mary what she called her most useful recipe.
She said, "Mary, this recipe was almost invaluable to me when I was a
young housekeeper and the strictest economy was necessary. Sift into a
bowl, one cup of flour, one even teaspoonful of baking powder (I use
other baking powders occasionally, but prefer 'Royal'), then cut
through the flour either one tablespoonful of butter or lard, add a
pinch of salt, and mix into a soft dough with about one-half cup of
sweet milk. Mix dough quickly and lightly, handling as little as
possible. Drop large spoonfuls of the batter in muffin pans and bake
in a quick oven for tea biscuits; or, sift flour thickly over the
bread board, turn out the dough, roll several times in the flour, give
one quick turn with the rolling-pin to flatten out dough, and cut out
with small cake cutter, (I prefer using a small, empty tin, 1/2 pound
baking powder can, to cut out cakes.) Place close together in an agate
pan and bake, or bake in one cake in a pie tin and for shortcake; or
place spoonfuls of the dough over veal or beef stew and potatoes or
stewed chicken, and cook, closely covered, about fifteen minutes. Of
course, you will have sufficient water in the stew pan to prevent its
boiling away before the pot-pie dumplings are cooked, and, of course,
you know, Mary, the meat and potatoes must be almost ready to serve
when this dough is added. Then I frequently add one teaspoonful of
sugar to the batter and place spoonfuls over either freshly stewed or
canned sour cherries, plums, rhubarb or apples. In fact, any tart
fruit may be used, and steam, closely covered, or place large
tablespoonful of any fruit, either canned or stewed, in small custard
cups, place tablespoonfuls of batter on top and steam or bake, and
serve with either some of the stewed fruit and fruit juice, sugar and
cream, or any sauce preferred."
"The varieties of puddings which may be evolved from this one
formula," continued the Professor's wife, "are endless, and, Mary, I
should advise you to make a note of it. This quantity of flour will
make enough to serve two at a meal, and the proportions may be easily
doubled if you wish to serve a large family."
"Then, Mary, I have a recipe taken from the 'Farmers' Bulletin' for
dumplings, which I think fine. You must try it some time. Your Aunt
Sarah thinks them 'dreadfully extravagant.' They call for four
teaspoonfuls of baking powder to two cups of flour, but they are
perfect puff balls, and this is such a fast age, why not use more
baking powder if an advantage? I am always ready to try anything new I
hear about."
"Yes," replied Mary, "I just love to try new recipes, I will
experiment with the dumplings one of these days. Aunt Sarah says I
will never use half the recipes I have; but so many of them have been
given me by excellent and reliable old Bucks County cooks, I intend to
copy them all in a book, and keep for reference after I leave the
farm."