NOVI BAZAR
We awoke to find where we were. The little encampment which we had seen
to our left on entering the town, was now far on our right. The flat
plain--where was the large tent with the red cross painted over it--had
been our bed, the tent behind us; to our right was the brown hill topped
by the old Turkish blockhouse; and in front a cut maize field with its
solid red stubble sloped directly to the river, beyond which lay the
village massed on the opposite slope up to a white church. Immediately
below us on the river edge were the roofs of the "Stobarts'" refuge and
of the Scottish women's hospital. Poplar trees in all the panoply of
autumn sprang up from the valley with their tops full of the blackest
crows, who cawed discordantly at the dawn. Our fire had gone out, but
the Austrian had left enough wood, another was quickly started; but we
found that Angelo in making his curries had melted all the solder from
the empty biscuit tins and not one would hold water. So there was a
hurried transference of biscuits from a whole one.
From where we sat sipping our cocoa, we could see the hurried coming and
going of motors in the main square, and groups of bullock waggons and
soldiers about the fence of the church. A great street which split the
village in two from top to bottom--the old Turkish frontier--was almost
empty. The corporal proposed to visit the military commandant in search
of hay and bread. So Jan dragged on his wet boots and set off with him
down the hill, collecting Jo from the "Stobarts" on the way.
We crossed the rickety wooden bridge, passed between the _alfresco_
encampments--like travelling tinkers--of waggoners and soldiers which
lined the roads, up the great frontier street and so into the square.
All that now was SERBIA was concentrated in this little village. Private
houses had suddenly become ministries; cafés, headquarters; and shops,
departmental offices. The square was the central automobile station, and
cars under repair or adjustment were in every corner. Beneath the church
paling a camp of waggoners had a large bonfire and were cooking a whole
sheep on a spit. Austrian prisoners with white, drawn faces were
wandering about, staring with half unseeing eyes; a Serbian soldier was
chewing a hard biscuit, and a prisoner crept up to him begging for a
corner of the bread; the soldier broke off a piece and gave it to him.
About the gate of the commandant's office were gathered Serbs and
Austrians all waiting for bread. We pushed our way in. The hay was
quickly arranged, but the bread was another matter.
"We have no bread," said the commandant.
"But," we objected, "all those men waiting outside. They would not come
here if you had no bread."
The commandant pulled his moustache.
"We have bread only for soldiers."
There was a sudden commotion outside. The door was burst open; two
soldiers entered dragging with them a man--a peasant; his eyes were
staring, his face blanched. We then noticed that he was holding his
shoulders in a curious manner, and realized that his arms were bound
with his own belt. The two soldiers pushed him into an inner room, but
the officials were busy, so he was stood in a corner.
"What has he done?" we asked.
"We have only bread for soldiers," repeated the commandant. Bread was
evidently the most important.
"We have a Government order."
He scanned it, pounced upon the three franc phrase and offered us money.
We pointed out that bread was indicated to the value--
"We have no bread for the English," he said at last.
Jo once more made the nasty little speech which we had found so
effective at Kralievo. It worked like a charm. An enormous sack filled
with loaves was dragged out and from it he choose three. We mentioned
the man once more. The commandant shrugged his shoulders.
"He's going to be killed," he said. "Some soldiers looted his yard and
he shot one."
He then asked the corporal if he would take flour instead of bread. The
corporal agreed, adding that in that case, of course, they would get a
bit more.
"Of course, you won't," said the commandant.
We sent the corporal back to the camp with the loaves, and with a little
trouble found the house where Colonel P---- and Admiral T----had
lodgings. It was a gay little cottage, and both were at breakfast. They
welcomed us and generously offered us their spare eggs, though eggs were
scarce. The admiral had a large-scale map--made, of course, by
Austria--and we hunted it for our road. Paths were marked quite clearly,
and houses at most convenient intervals. It seemed a far superior path
to the Ipek pass, both regarding shelter and length.
"But," we said, "Sir Ralph suggests that we go to Mitrovitza, because
the Serbs say that Uskub will fall in a few days."
"I should get out of the country as soon as you can," said one.
"It is exceedingly unlikely that Uskub can fall," said the other. But
they promised us as definite information as they were allowed to give if
we would return for tea, by when the aeroplane reconnaissance should
have come in.
We went back to the camp with the news.
Colonel G---- came up and tried to wipe out the impression which he had
made the evening before. He repeated that Uskub must certainly fall
within the week, and that we should be very silly to go off to Novi
Bazar, which we could never reach because the bridge had been washed
away.
All the hill behind was crowded with Austrian prisoners. They had
received one loaf between every three men, and said that it had to last
three days. They did not know where they were going. Blease went through
their lines, and at last found an old servant--a Hungarian. He was a
stoic.
"One lives till one is dead," said he.
The hospital was doing a brisk trade in wounded: sisters and doctors
both hard at work. The "Stobarts" were resting, and had built a camp
fire outside the door of their hovel. We got lunch ready, ruining
recklessly another biscuit tin. While we were eating it a Serb came
near.
"I am starving," he said.
We gave him some curry and rice. He devoured it.
"To-morrow," he said, "I go back to commando."
We pointed to his hand, which was bound in dirty linen.
"But?"
"It is better to go back though wounded than be starved to death."
We also held a court of justice. A driver complained that one of the
Englishmen had given him a pair of boots and that the corporal had taken
them.
"CORPORAL!!"
He came grinning. We exposed the complaint.
"Certainly the man had a pair of boots," said he; "but he has them no
longer. Now, they are mine, I have taken them."
"But they were given to him."
"But I have taken them. I needed new boots." He exhibited his own, which
were split.
We told him that possession by capture was not recognized in our circle,
and ordered immediate restitution. He agreed gloomily, no doubt feeling
that the foundations of his world were falling about his ears, and what
was the use of being a corporal anyway?
In the afternoon we sought out the motor authorities, finding our old
friends Ristich and Derrok in command. They easily promised us transport
for Sir Ralph Paget's box and henchmen--no trouble at all they said. Yet
had we not known them personally we might have waited a month without
help. One is irresistibly reminded at every turn that the Near East
means the East near the East and not the East near the West.
We went to the English colonel's, but no news was yet forthcoming, and
we were, after a jolly tea, invited back at eight.
The camp was in darkness by the time we reached it once more. The fire
lit up the men sitting about it, and the two inverted V's of the tent
entrances; very faintly behind could be seen the outline of the line of
little tented waggons. We had collected an additional member, Miss
Brindley of the "Stobarts." She was very keen to get home, as her
parents were anxious, and both her brothers at the front. Jo gave one
look at her and said "Certainly." She had rushed immediately into the
town and had laid in a stock of beans and lentils, as her contribution
to the common stock. They were all she could buy.
After supper back to the colonel's, and at last got definite news. It
was unlikely that Skoplje would fall, and very little use loitering in
hopes. The colonel advised Jan to get his party out by the best route
possible, and we took a grateful farewell.
Coming back to the camp Jan had a nasty half-hour. Should we go by
Mitrovitza, or should we go by Berane? In the first case there was the
long route, the difficulty of getting lodgings and of transport, the
risk of falling behind the Serbian General Staff, and of finding the
country bare, the high passes of Petch and the snow; Willett was only
just recovering from a bad chill, West's arm had grown much worse, and
had been operated on in the morning by a doctor with a pair of scissors
_faute de mieux_--a most agonizing process. On the other hand, the
Berane route was unknown to the authorities, and might have fallen so
into decay that it was useless; we did not know where the Austro-Germans
were, and they might be already on the outskirts of Novi Bazar; if any
of us fell ill we should certainly be captured. It was a toss up.
Finally he asked the others. They said--
"What you think best. You know the country."
We finally decided to go to Novi Bazar and make inquiries. If there were
no road we could go thence to Mitrovitza, and would only have lost a
day. If, as the colonel said, the bridge was washed away, we could
probably ford the river.
Then to bed. One could not sleep really well, for the rugs did not give
sufficient warmth, and the chill striking up from the ground penetrated
everything.
Took the road to Novi Bazar next day. Miss Brindley joined us with a
parcel of blankets and a knapsack and a mackintosh lent by a friend. She
had lost her boots, or the local cobbler had lost them, but most
appropriately a motor had arrived and on it was a pair of new soldier's
boots unclaimed. She took them, cut the feet of a pair of indiarubber
Wellingtons and pulled them over her stockings, and put a smile on her
face which never came off in spite of any fatigue.
Hilder and Antonio went off with Sir Ralph's box. The "Stobarts" wished
us good luck, and away we clattered over the rickety bridge, up through
the town and out into the Novi Bazar road. The surface was fairly good,
and the day turned brilliant. We had left the six sisters and their
luggage behind with their respective units, and so had four extra
waggons to carry our stuff. We rattled along cheerily, only dismounting
at the occasional patches of mud which we met.
After a while we decided to lunch. We came to a café and halted.
"Have you coffee?" we asked.
"Ima."
"Will you give us all coffee?"
"We have no sugar," said the hostess; so we had no coffee.
We got out a tin of biscuits and lunched on those. As we were passing
them round a soldier stopped.
"What are you selling those for?" he asked, under the impression that we
were a travelling shop. We gave him some, to his great astonishment.
On we went again. Down below us in a field the corporal spotted a
hayrick. Like stage villains the coachmen clambered down the hill, each
with a rope--spoil from the discarded tents. They attacked the rick and
soon nothing was left. As they staggered back, each hidden beneath an
enormous load of hay--looking themselves like walking ricks--a Turk in
black and white clothes ran down from above furiously brandishing a
three-pronged fork.
"What are you doing?" he yelled.
The corporal stood stiffly and said--
"It is war. We are the State. It is of no value for you to preach."
The owner went dolefully down the hill, and stood looking at where his
stack had been.
"We have again prevented those Germans from stealing good hay," said the
corporal with satisfaction. Each cart looked not unlike a hay wain
returning from the fields, and we scrambled up on to the top feeling
like children in the autumn. After we had gone a mile we began to wonder
why we had given the owner no compensation: evidently the corporal's
influence was turning us into scoundrels.
At last the broken bridge. Only a shallow stream across which our carts
splashed joyfully. On the other side was a small church with a beautiful
blue tower. And soon we were in the outskirts of Novi Bazar, the most
ordinary town of the Sanjak, combining the dull parts of Plevlie with
the dull parts of Ipek. There was a stream down the middle of the road,
in which some of the inhabitants were washing, while one sat on his
haunches holding up a small looking-glass with one hand and shaving
himself.
We bustled off to the mayor's office. Found him as usual in a back
street in a shabby office up shaky wooden stairs. The mayor knew nothing
of any road to Berane; so baffled, we again found the street. We went
to the shabby Turkish shops of the bazaar and inquired.
"Certainly," said the shopkeepers, "a good path to Berane, and not high.
No; not so high as that by Ipek."
We returned to the mayor's office. He seemed little inclined to consent,
and demanded to see our pass. Jo again made her little--but so
useful--speech. The mayor called in an Albanian. After a long
consultation the mayor said that he had no horses.
"Then we will take our carriage horses," said we.
"There are no roads for carriages," said the mayor.
"Then we will take the horses without the carriages."
The mayor called in two more men: they considered the pass once more.
"You may have the carriages two days more," he decided at last. "Go to
Tutigne. As far as that the carriages will travel. There are many horses
there, and you can get pack ponies."
Coming out we ran into Colonel Stajitch of Valievo. The colonel is a
Serbian gentleman, fine figure, beautiful face, and white hair and
moustaches. He greeted us, asked us our news. We told him of our
projected journey. He became thoughtful and after a while said good-bye.
We took our convoy through the town to a field on the outskirts where
we pitched the camp.
We borrowed the corporal's axe and hewed for some time in a thorn hedge,
without getting much profit but many prickles, and finally decided to
take a paling from a Turkish cemetery, for there was no one about.
Soon we had a jolly fire, and Cutting and Whatmough got to work on the
food. Dr. Holmes turned up. He had arrived the day before and had found
lodgings in an inn. West's arm was still inflamed and very painful. The
doctor looked at it and said it needed more incision. West and Miss
Brindley went off with him.
An old ragamuffin wandered up with a loaf of maize bread. He offered it
to the corporal for three dinars; but the corporal took it away and gave
him two. The old man made a great outcry. We demanded the cause. The
unlawful corporal was again hailed to justice, his corporalship seeming
more valueless than ever, and to give him a lesson we bought the bread
for three dinars, for it was worth it.
We suddenly discovered that none of the Red Cross men had papers or
passes. What was to be done? We were conniving at an almost unlawful
expedition, and Jan was very doubtful if we could cross the Montenegrin
frontier. But after a consultation we decided to bluff it into
Montenegro if necessary, and then telegraph to Cettinje to help us out.
It was now dark and West and Miss Brindley had not come back. So Jan and
Jo went off to look for them. We searched two cafés--meeting again with
our old acquaintance the schoolmaster from Nish--plunged into all sorts
of odd corners, and at last met Colonel Stajitch in a restaurant. He
greeted us.
"I have a great favour to ask," he said diffidently. "If I might I
should like to give to you a little appendix. It is my son. He is
seventeen, but is very big for his age. If the Austrians catch him I do
not know what will become of him."
We were introduced to the boy, and at once consented.
"I will decide for certain to-morrow," said the colonel. "Can I meet you
at seven o'clock?"
We hunted once more for West. Ran him to earth at last in the Hotel de
Paris. This hotel could perhaps have existed in the Butte de Montmartre,
but even there it would have been considered a disgrace. We had to pass
through a long room crammed with sleeping soldiery, stepping across them
to get to the door opposite. Every window was tight shut, and after one
horrified gulp we held our breath till we reached the interior
courtyard. Here, too, were sleeping men, and all along the balconies and
passages were more.
We found Holmes' room. West was there, rather white and just recovering
from the anæsthetic. We sat down. Dr. Holmes had thought of coming with
us, but the authorities had looked suspiciously at his passes, which
were made out to Mitrovitza, so he decided to go on there. We wished
that he had come, as a doctor would have been a great comfort had we
really needed him.
After a rest West was well enough to go back to the camp.
[Illustration]