CHAPTER XIV

MAINLY RETROSPECTIVE

Hospital work again. How strange we felt. A sad-faced little Serbian

lady, widowed through typhus, was interpreting for the out-patients

while Jo was away; but she was alone in the world and did not want to

go--so Jo, homesick for her beloved out-patients, had to make the best

of it and do other work. The Serbian youth who had been put on the staff

as secretary, was dangerously ill with typhoid fever, which he had

picked up at Kragujevatz. The typhus barrack was a children's hospital,

containing little waifs chosen from the out-patients, and a few women.

In the early days when we had first arrived at Vrntze there were several

overfilled Serbian and one Greek hospital. They were only cafés and

large villas, unsanitary, stuffy, and overworked. The windows were never

open, and through the huge sheets of plate glass could be dimly seen in

the thick blue tobacco smoke a higgledy-piggledy crowd of beds. Often

two men lay in one bed covered with their dirty great coats, while

typhus patients and wounded men slept together. One man lay unconscious

for several days in the window, his feet in his dinner-plate. At last he

died, his feet still in the dinner. Mr. Berry took on a hydropathic

establishment which had been completed just before the first Balkan War.

This was used as the central hospital, where the staff lodged, and the

most serious surgical cases were nursed. In the basement an

operating-room was rigged up, there were bathrooms, disinfecting-rooms,

a laundry, and an engine-house, where gimcrack German machinery in fits

and starts provided us with electric light and hot water. The village

school on the hill opposite was annexed and cleaned by a sculptor, a

singer, a painter, and a judge of the Royal Horse Show. This was run as

a convalescent home, and was the cause of many a muddy sit down, as it

lay on the top of a greasy hill.

Other large buildings were gradually added, sulphured, and cleaned until

we had six hospitals, one of which was run for some time in connection

with the Red Cross unit.

Typhus had not stricken the village badly, but the old barracks were

full of cases which developed several days after each batch of wounded

came.

The Red Cross unit took on the typhus barracks. Mr. Berry, seeing that

surgery was for the moment a secondary thing, and having received a

batch of Austrian prisoners riddled with typhus, built some barracks not

far from the school. Glass was unobtainable, so thin muslin was used for

the windows.

The first precaution against bad air that Mr. Berry took in preparing

his chief surgical ward was to smash all top panes of the windows with a

broom, thus earning the name of the Window Breaker. Whenever the wind

blew through the draughty corridors and glass rattled down from the

sashes, word went round that "Mr. Berry has been at it again."

Our unit and the Red Cross ran a quarantine hospital together. It was

originally the state café and lay in the park of the watering-place.

Near by were the sulphur baths. We ripped out the stuffy little wooden

dressing-rooms, to the joy of the bath attendant, who possessed the

facsimile of Tolstoi's face, and with the _débris_ we built a large shed

outside for the reception of the wounded.

In the early days they came in large batches from other hospitals,

pathetic septic cases, their lives ruined for want of proper care. We

put their clothes in bags for future disinfecting, and the men, mildly

perplexed, were bathed, shaved, and sent to the "clearing-house," as it

was called. Those who developed typhus went to the barracks, and the

rest were drafted to the various hospitals in the village.

The clothes were first sulphurized to kill the lice, and then, until Dr.

Boyle's disinfector appeared, boiled. This was important, as typhus is

propagated by infected lice. Even forty-eight hours of sulphur did not

destroy the nits. One day the sulphur-room was opened after twenty-four

hours. Live lice were discovered congregated round the tops of the bags.

Jan put some in a bottle. They immediately fought each other, tooth and

nail, rolling and scrambling in a mass just like a rugby-football scrum,

and continued the fight for twelve hours at least, thus proving that the

scientific writer who says that the louse is a delicate creature and

only lives a few hours off the body can know little of the Serbian

breed.

The town, when we arrived, was a bouquet of assorted and nasty smells,

of which the authorities seemed proud. We cleaned up the streets by

running a little artificial river down the gutter. Mr. Berry had the

chief of the police sacked and instituted a sort of sanitary vigilance

committee. We took over the local but very primitive sewage works--a

field into which all the filth of the town was drained.

The slaughter-house was discovered. It was an old wooden shed built

over the lower end of the stream which washed the village from end to

end, draining successively the typhus barracks, the baths, and all the

hospitals. The shed itself was old and worm-eaten. The walls were caked

with the blood of years, yet the meat was always hung against them after

having been well soused in the filthy water. Mr. Berry decided to build

a new one: some of the money was subscribed through Mr. Blease by the

Liverpool Liberal Club; the rest Mr. Berry paid himself. At once the

state began to quarrel with the commune as to the ownership of the

proposed treasure. So the smells disappeared and the town engineer was

furious, saying he would "Put all right" when we left.

Luckily one of the chief men in the town had lived in America and knew

the value of cleanliness. Mr. Berry was offered an honorary Colonelcy;

but he refused, saying he would prefer to be made sanitary officer for

the town.

[Illustration: IN-PATIENTS.]

The spring came, bringing with it no fighting. A great offensive was

expected, had been ordered, in fact, but we heard later that the army

refused to advance. The work was very much lighter. Very few men were

entirely helpless. The hospitals, which were still emptying themselves

and whose men were coming to us, sent the survival of the fittest. Most

of the beds were carried out under the trees after the morning

dressings were done, and the men lay gossiping and smoking when they

could get tobacco. Outside visitors were rare. The Serbian ladies do not

go round the hospitals with cigarettes and sweets, and to find a Serbian

woman nursing is an anomaly.

Report says that many flung themselves into it with energy during the

first Balkan War, but that four years of it, ending with typhus, had

dulled their enthusiasm. It is not fair to blame them. To nurse from

morning till night in a putrid Serbian hospital with all windows closed

requires more than devotion and complete indifference to life. Three

Serbian ladies came to sew pillow cases and sheets every afternoon, and

one of them gave up still more time to teach the patients reading and

writing.

But the town was full, in the summer, of smartly dressed women, and the

village priest never once visited our hospitals. Hearing of the English

missions and their work, peasants began to come from the mountains

around, and the out-patient department became, under Dr. Helen Boyle, a

matter for strenuous mornings.

Many of these poor things had never seen a doctor in their lives. Serbia

even in peace-time had not produced many medical men, and those who

existed had no time to attend the poor gratis.

The percentage of consumptives was enormous. Every family shuts its

windows and doors for the winter and proceeds industriously to spit, and

so the disease spreads.

Diphtheria patients rode and walked often for ten hours and waited in

the courtyard, and people far gone with typhus staggered along in the

blazing spring sun.

One jolly old ragatops with typhus arrived in the afternoon with a

violent temperature, and Jo settled him comfortably in the courtyard

with his head on a sink until Mrs. Berry should come in to see about

taking him into the barracks. He seemed quite happy about himself, but

very worried about his blind beggar brother and his two half-blind

children, whose sight had been ruined by smallpox.

For the latter nothing could be done.

Another time she kept two boys waiting to see if Mrs. Berry could take

them into her typhus barracks. One had scarlet fever, and the other was

a young starving clerk in a galloping consumption, thirty-six hours from

his home.

Afraid to raise their hopes, and not knowing if there would be room for

them, Jo told them that they were to have some very strong medicine that

could only be administered two hours after a dose of hot milk and

biscuit (the medicine was only bovril). By this time Mrs. Berry arrived

and managed to squeeze the boys in.

However, we were told to clear the hospitals, for the wounded were

expected.

"What could be done with the scarlet fever boy?" At last an idea came:

"The Mortuary," built by the Horse Show Judge with such joy. The

mortuary that we had all gone to admire as a work of art.

But the scarlet fever boy did not seem to see it that way, for in the

night he escaped, and we have never seen him since.

Diphtheria was so prevalent that the Red Cross on receiving a patient,

gathered in the whole family for a few days, inoculated, washed, and

gargled it. They also toured the villages around, digging out typhus and

other infectious cases, thus stopping the spread of infection. They had

a most energetic matron, Miss Caldwell, who had already nursed in

Cettinje during the Balkan Wars, and we have already told how she

managed the Montenegrins.

Often the patients came in ox-carts. Too ill to be lifted out, they had

to be examined and treated in the carts. Dr. Boyle acquired a special

nimbleness in jumping in and out of these contrivances armed with

stethescope, spoons, bowls, and dressings. We accumulated a congregation

of "regulars," who came to be dressed every day--gathered feet,

suppurating glands, eczema, etc.

One old mother with a bad leg was bandaged up with boracic ointment and

told to come back in two days. She came. Jo undid the bandage. All the

old lady's fleas had swarmed to the boracic till it looked like a

fly-paper. After which we used Vermigeli.

All wore brightly woven belts, sometimes two or three, each a yard and a

half long, tightly wound round their bodies, thus making their waists

wider than their hips. One girl was black and blue with the pattern

showing on her skin, and many men were suffering from the evils of tight

lacing.

The village priest received belts as fees from the peasants when he

married them. He sent us a message to say he had some for sale, so we

went in a body to his house, were received by his daughter, who looked

like a cow-girl, turned over a basketful of belts, and bought largely.

After which he put up the price.

Jo went on night duty for the first time.

A queer experience this, starting the day's work at half-past seven in

the evening and finishing at seven in the morning--breakfasting when

other people are dining; hearing their contented laughter as they go off

to bed; and then a queer loneliness and the ugly ticking of a clock. One

creeps round the big ward. What a noisy thing breathing is. Some one

groans, "Sestra, I cannot sleep." This man has not been ordered morphia.

Silence once more broken only by the sound of the breathing, distant

howling of dogs from the darkness or the hoot of an owl. The old

frostbite man coughs; he coughs again insistently. Both say "Yes" to hot

milk. So down to the big kitchen, some mice scatter by, the puppy wakes

up and thinks it is time for a game. A woman's voice calls loudly,

"Sestra." Taking the milk off, Sestra hurries across the courtyard and

along the corridor to the little rooms with the puppy tugging at her

skirt. The woman wants water; she has wakened the other women--they want

water. When silence again comes back into the ward, one notes

instinctively the vivid colouring of the two big blue windows at the far

end, the long lines of beds disappearing into the darkness, the dim

light of the lantern on the table showing up the cheap clock and a few

flowers. The intensity of light upon this clock is only equalled by the

intensity of one's thoughts upon the clock. The minute-hand drags on as

though it were weary with the day's work. A groan ticks off the quarters

and cries for water or milk the half-hours. At last one o'clock. Time

for a midnight meal. Eggs and cocoa hurriedly eaten without appetite in

the kitchen, but breaking the monotony. Back to the ward again, one of

the patients very restless, in great pain. Poor fellow, he has had a

long and hard time of it, fifteen months in bed and all due to early

neglect.

"Sestra," he says, "sestra," and holds out a handkerchief heavy with

coin. "Tell the doctor to take me down to the operating-room and cure me

or not let me wake up."

Between four and five there is more movement in the ward. Groans give

way to yawns. In the windows the blue is paling to grey. Cocks are

crowing now quite close, now faintly, like an echo. Suddenly the world

is filled with work, "washings, brushings, combings, cleanings,

temperatures, breakfasts, medicines, some beds to make, reports, all

fitted together like a jigsaw puzzle, until at last the day-sisters come

and relieve, and yawning at the daylight one eats warmed-up dinner while

the others are having breakfast."

After a seven weeks' absence one was bound to miss many old friends in

the ward. Some had gone home, others were back in the army. Old Number

13, the king of the ward, was still there. He had a dark brown face and

white hair, and was furious if any dared to call him a gipsy.

"I am a respectable farmer," he said, "and I own seventeen pigs, a

horse, and five sheep, a wife, and two children."

He loved to tell of his wedding. It was done in the correct old Serbian

style. He went with his mother and a gun to the chosen one's house,

where she was waiting alone, her parents tactfully keeping out of the

way. They abducted the lady, who was treated with great honour as a

visitor in her future father-in-law's house.

"Father" turned up next morning. Rakia was served, and father divulged

ceremoniously how many pigs he could spare to them for keeping his

daughter.

Number 13 wanted to know everything: how old was Jo, how much she was

paid?

"What, you are not paid?" he said in amazement. "Then the English are

wonderful! In Serbia our women would not do that."

Poor little John Willie still left a blank, though he had died long

before. His name was not John Willie, but it sounded rather like it, so

we just turned it into John Willie. He loved the name, and told his

father about it.

They sat all afternoon hand-in-hand, saying at intervals, "Dgonn Oolie,"

and chuckling.

Jan once had brought back from a spring visit to Kragujevatz some

horrible sun hats.

They were the cast-off eccentricities of the fashions of six years ago,

and had drifted from the Rue de la Paix to this obscure Serbian shop

which was selling them as serious articles of clothing. Jo tried them

on, and one of the nurses became so weak with laughter that she tumbled

all the way downstairs.

Finding them quite impossible, Jo bequeathed them to the ward, where

they were snapped up enthusiastically.

The ugliest was an immense sailor hat, the crown nearly as wide as the

brim, but the head hole would have fitted a doll. However, John Willie

fancied that hat and was always to be seen, a tiny, round-backed figure,

wandering slowly in a long blue dressing-gown, blue woolly boots, and

the enormous hat perched on the top of his pathetically drooping head.

One day poor little John Willie became fearfully ill. His parents

arrived and sat dumbly gazing at him for two nights, while he panted his

poor little life away. His friend the Velika Dete (big child), once a

fierce comitaj, was moved away from the "Malo Dete," to make more room,

and he sulked, while the Austrian prisoner orderlies ran to and fro with

water for his head, milk, all the things that a poor little dying boy

might need; and old Number 13 passed to and fro shaking his head, for he

had been long in hospital and had seen many people die.

A man with knees bent (he said with scroogling them up all winter in the

cold) was put in John Willie's place. The Velika Dete came back, but he

would not speak to "Bent Knees" for weeks.

By this time the Austrian prisoners were very well trained and made

excellent orderlies in the ward. An ex-Carlton waiter was very dexterous

in sidling down the ward: on his five fingers a tray perched high,

containing dressing-bowls and pots bristling with forceps, scissors, and

various other instruments.

His chief talent lay in peppering frostbitten toes with iodoform

powder--a reminiscence of the sugar castor.

Our housemaid was a leather tanner, whom Jo's baby magpie mistook for

its parent, as he fed it at intervals every morning. A Czech in typhus

cloths spent his days down in the disinfecting, operating and bathrooms.

He had been an overseer in a factory and had added to his income by

writing love-stories for the papers. A butcher was installed in the

kitchens. Once a week he became an artist, killing a sheep according to

the best Prague ideals.

All our prisoners, about forty in number, clung to the English hospitals

as their only chance of life, for in other places sixty per cent. had

died of typhus.

The Serbs, though bearing no animosity, could do little for them. We saw

the quarters of some men working on the road. These were show quarters

and supposed to be clean. Each room had an outside door. On the floor

was room for six men and hay enough to stuff one pillow. They had no

rugs, and the Serbs could give them none. The cold in the winter must

have been intense.

We had come back to this little world after seven weeks' wandering, and

almost immediately Jan had gone off to Kragujevatz with a broken motor.

While he was away Jo got letters from England and Paris, which made her

realize that things were rather in a mess, and we should have to go

home. We had left England intending to stay in Serbia three months, and

had been then nearly nine.

[Illustration]

The Luck of Thirteen: Wanderings and Flight through Montenegro and Serbia · 第 13 / 23 章