Depart from Churchill--A gale--Anchor in Knap's Bay--Land on an
island--Esquimaux graves--Visited by Esquimaux--A large river
running into Knap's Bay--Nevill's Bay--Corbet's Inlet--Rankin's
Inlet--Cape Jalabert--Greenland whales seen--Chesterfield
Inlet--Walruses--Cape Fullerton--Visited by an
Esquimaux--Reefs--Cape Kendall seen--Ice packed against the
shore--Take shelter in an excellent harbour--River
traced--Seals--Gale--Ice driven off--Direction of the tides
reversed--Whale Point--Many whales seen--Again stopped by the
pack--Wager River estuary--Ice drifts--Eddy currents--No second
opening into Wager River seen--Enter Repulse Bay--Interview with
Esquimaux--No intelligence of Sir John Franklin.
Having taken on board Ouligbuck and one of his sons as Esquimaux
interpreters, and bid adieu to Mr. Sinclair, who, during our stay, had
omitted nothing that could in any way tend to the comfort of the party,
we set sail at 11 o'clock on the 5th July with a light air of N.N.E.
wind, and stood to the westward across Button's Bay. The weather was
fine, and to enliven the scene numbers of white whales were seen
sporting about, and sometimes coming within a few yards of the boats.
The men were all in excellent health and spirits, there not being a
melancholy look nor a desponding word to be seen or heard among them.
At 3.30 P.M. we passed Pauk-a-thau-kis-cow River, and the wind having
freshened and shifted round to the S.E. we had run upwards of forty
miles before 10 o'clock. The temperature of the air was 49 deg., and
of the water 50 deg., thus showing that there was little or no ice in
the neighbourhood.
The night being fine we continued under sail, the crews being divided
into two watches. The land had now become much lower than it was about
Churchill, and the coast very flat; so that it was necessary to keep six
or eight miles from the land when the tide was out; and even then,
although the boats drew only two and a half feet water, there was little
enough for them. The bottom was of mud, sand, or shingle, with every
here and there a large boulder stone, some of them ten or twelve feet
high.
Early on the morning of the 6th three Esquimaux came off in their
kayaks, and although we were going at the rate of four miles an hour
they easily overtook us. As they were going towards Churchill, I sent a
few lines to Mr. Sinclair by them.
Our latitude at noon was 60 deg. 17' 59" N. Thermometer in air 49 deg.,
in water 45 deg. The total distance run, measured by Massey's log, was
ninety-five miles, which agreed very nearly with our latitude, the
difference being easily accounted for by the circumstance that the ebb
tide runs much stronger to the northward than the flood does in an
opposite direction.
In the afternoon there was a strong breeze, which, although fair, was
rather too much onshore and raised a heavy sea. At 5 P.M., having run
twenty-five miles since noon, we got into shallow water, and although
the heads of the boats were immediately turned to seaward, the ebb tide
was too quick for us, and we got aground, being ten miles from the main
shore. Five miles N.W. of us there was a small but steep island, on the
E. side of which there was still a deep snow drift. By a meridian
altitude of the moon our latitude was 60 deg. 47' 24" N.
The following morning we floated at 2 A.M., and with a strong breeze
from S.E. stood on our course. The weather looked threatening, and we
had not been long out before the wind increased to a gale, and the sea
rose in proportion. The boats fully realised the good opinion we had of
them, but being so deeply laden the sea broke frequently over them, and
kept us continually baling; at last the Magnet shipped a heavy sea, and
the steersman, either from losing his presence of mind or from not
knowing how to act, allowed the boat to broach to. Fortunately no other
sea struck her whilst thus placed, else both she and the crew must
inevitably have been lost. I here saw the benefit of the precaution I
had taken to have some Orkneymen with me, for it was evident the others
(although as good fellows as could possibly be wished) knew nothing
about the management of a boat in such weather.
I was loath to lose so fine an opportunity of getting on, but it would
have been recklessness to attempt proceeding. We accordingly ran in
towards Knap's Bay, which was nearly abreast of us, and were soon
anchored in a snug cove under the lee of the largest island in the bay.
It was well that we put in here, for the wind in a short time increased
to a perfect storm with heavy rain.
On a neighbouring island some miles to the south of us, many Esquimaux
tents were seen, but we could not discover if they were inhabited.
Notwithstanding the rain I took my gun and made a tour of the island. It
is about two miles long, a quarter of a mile broad, and not exceeding
100 feet in height, being covered with a scanty vegetation, and thickly
strewn in many places with fragments of granite.
I met with a great many Esquimaux graves, the bodies being protected
from wild animals by an arch of stone built over them. We found a number
of spear-heads, knives, &c. placed in some of these heaps of stones; but
the Esquimaux do not, I believe, destroy all the property of the
deceased, as is common among most tribes of Indians.
Tracks were seen of a large white bear which had evidently been feasting
on the eggs of various wildfowl that breed here; among these I noticed
the eider duck (_fuligula mollissima_), the long-tailed duck (_fuligula
glacialis_), and the black guillimot (_uria grylle_).
In the evening, when the wind had somewhat moderated, we were visited
by five Esquimaux from the tents before mentioned; they each received a
piece of tobacco, of which they are remarkably fond, and one of them
promised to carry or forward to Churchill a letter which I addressed to
Sir George Simpson. In a net that we had set, a salmon weighing 10 lbs.
was caught. A large and deep river empties its waters into this bay; its
course is about due east, and it abounds with salmon, seals, and white
whales, being consequently a favourite resort of the natives. The rise
of the tide was thirteen feet. When about to go to bed I found my
blankets quite wet by the seas that washed over me in the morning; this,
however, made them keep out the wind better, and did not certainly
affect my rest.
The following day was more moderate, but it was 2 P.M. before we could
venture out of our harbour. By observation the latitude 61 deg. 9' 42" N.,
and the variation of the compass 7 deg. 48' east were obtained; the dip of
the needle being 86 deg. 18' 3" N.
At 4 A.M. on the 9th the wind went round so far to the east that we
could not lie our course; it rained heavily, but the wind became more
favourable, and we stood over towards the north shore of Nevill's Bay.
The temperature of the water at mid-day 37 deg., air 44 deg.; latitude
by observation 61 deg. 55' 40" N.
We passed among many small islands, the resort of great numbers of the
birds already mentioned, which we used as food (although not very
palatable) to save our pemmican. I also noticed a few of foolish
guillimot (_uria troile_), the first we had met with.[2] At half-past
five, it being calm, we landed on a small island to get some water; we
found a few Hutchins geese here, one of them having a brood of young
with her. These appear to have taken the place of the Canada goose, as I
have not seen any of the latter lately. At 8 o'clock, it still being
calm, we pulled up towards the north point of Nevill's Bay, which bore
east of us. No ice was to be seen, but there were numerous patches of
snow on the main shore N.E. of us, distant 10 or 11 miles.
I saw a young shore lark and a young snow bunting, both able to fly.
There are quantities of red, grey, and blue granite in this island,
variegated with quartz.
The shores had now become steep and rugged, the whole coast being lined
with bare primitive rocks.
After breakfast next morning we pulled round the east end of some rocks
near which we had lain at anchor during the flood tide, and kept on our
course across Whale Cove. Some small pieces of ice were seen floating
about; the thermometer in the shade 55 deg., water 36 deg. A fog, which
had been thick all the morning, cleared up at half-past ten, and we saw
some islands at no great distance right ahead, and a smoke a few miles
inland on our beam, probably made by Esquimaux, but we could not see any
tents. Our latitude by observation was 62 deg. 11' 23" N. Temperature of
air 55 deg., of water 37 deg.
The weather was very variable, with calms and light breezes alternately.
At a little after 7 in the evening we were off the south point of
Corbet's Inlet. It rained hard almost all night; we, however, continued
our course, and at 7 A.M. got among a number of reefs and islands that
lie near the south point of Rankin's Inlet. In attempting to pass
between two of these our boat got aground, and as the tide was ebbing
she could not be shoved afloat again; but, as the greater part of the
cargo was carried on shore before the water fell very far, no damage was
done. An excellent observation of the sun gave latitude 62 deg. 35' 47"
N., variation 6 deg. 6' W., Marble Island bearing east by compass. The
black guillimot was in such numbers here that four or five were killed
at one shot. Many eggs were collected, and one nest was found having two
eider and three long-tailed ducks' eggs in it. The eider had possession,
but whether the birds had a mutual understanding, or whether the stronger
had driven out the weaker possessor, it is difficult to say.
At 4 P.M. we floated and ran across the inlet, the traverse being 15
miles. We landed at its north point, as the wind and tide were both
against us. There were numerous signs that this place is often visited
by the Esquimaux; the bones of various animals and the remains of some
stone "caches" being every where visible. A little before midnight a
deer was shot by Corrigal. During a walk I fell in with a large white
owl (_strix nyctra_). As is usually the case it was very shy, and could
not be approached within gun-shot.[3]
The rise of the tide was 14 feet.
At half-past two A.M. on the 13th we landed at Jalabert. The morning
was delightful, being quite calm with a sharp frost. While we lay here
waiting the change of the tide, Ouligbuck shot a fine large buck. Many
seals were sporting about, and a shoal of salmon were seen swimming
close to the beach. Having taken on board our venison, we pulled with
the tide now in our favour. We saw upwards of a dozen Greenland whales,
all apparently busy feeding, some of them very large. At noon we were in
latitude 63 deg. 6' 14" N. The variation of the compass 8 deg. 52' W. In
the evening we passed Chesterfield Inlet. Great numbers of rocks lie out
fully eight miles from the shore on its north side. The wind continued
fair and moderate all night, and at 6 in the morning, when in the large
bay S.W. of Cape Fullerton, a single Esquimaux visited us in his kayak.
He had been at Churchill last year, but did not intend to go thither
this season, although he had a number of wolf, fox, and parchment deer
skins at his tent. A present of a knife and a piece of tobacco made him
quite happy, and he left us shouting so loudly as to show that his lungs
were in good order. The party to which he belongs consists of ten
families, their hunting-grounds being situated on the borders of
Chesterfield Inlet, where they spear a great number of deer whilst
swimming across in the autumn. At some distance inland, woods are
found. A number of walruses were observed lying on a small ridge of
rocks. They were grunting and bellowing--making a noise which I fancy
would much resemble a concert of old boars and buffaloes. We did not
disturb their music. Obtained a meridian observation of the sun, which
gave latitude 64 deg. 3' 42" N. As the refraction was great and the
natural horizon used, this is probably erroneous; if it is not, Cape
Fullerton is not properly laid down in the charts, being too far to the
south. Temperature of the air 58 deg., water 41 deg.
When doubling Cape Fullerton, we were obliged, by the numerous granite
reefs, to keep six or seven miles from the mainland. At 7 in the evening
we landed to replenish our water casks, and had an unsuccessful chase
after two deer. The horizon being clear, I saw Cape Kendall on
Southampton Island, bearing S.E. by S. magnetic.
15th.--We made but little progress last night, there being no wind. The
weather was rather cold, the thermometer standing at 40 deg., and the
water being only 4 deg. above the freezing point indicated the proximity
of ice. A short time afterwards a large _pack_ was seen about five miles
distant. On approaching nearer, we found that it extended along shore as
far as the eye could see. At 2 P.M. we ran inshore, and took shelter
under some grey-coloured granite rocks twenty feet high. Deer being
noticed at no great distance, two or three sportsmen went after them,
and succeeded in shooting a doe. A very large whale was observed.
Finding our present position far from being a safe one, at high water we
pushed along shore among masses of ice during a thick fog, and entered
an inlet which opportunely presented itself, and which proved to be an
excellent harbour about 200 yards wide, from four to six fathoms deep,
and nearly four miles long. The bottom being sand and mud would afford
excellent anchorage for much larger craft than ours. As there were many
seals swimming about, I was led to infer that salmon or trout were
abundant; two nets were put down, but no fish were caught.
During a two days' detention here I traced, for eight miles, the course
of a considerable river which empties its waters into the inlet. I found
it to be a succession of rapids and deep pools, and running as nearly as
possible in a S.S.E. course. Near its mouth upwards of thirty seals were
lying basking in the sun; a ball fired among them sent the whole party
walloping into the water at a great rate, more frightened, however, than
hurt. One of the men had accompanied me, and during our walk we met with
a hen partridge (_tetrao rupestris_) and her brood. I have seen many
birds attempt to defend their young, but never witnessed one so
devotedly brave as this mother; she ran about us, over and between our
feet, striking at our hands when we attempted to take hold of her young,
so that she herself was easily made prisoner. Although kept in the hand
some time, when let loose again she continued her attacks with unabated
courage and perseverance, and was soon left mistress of the field, with
her family safe around her.
We were fortunate in finding some willows fully an inch in diameter,
which were far superior for fuel to the sea-weed and short heath we had
been using for the last two days.
Hutchins geese breed here in numbers, and as no Canada geese were seen,
I presume that they do not usually come so far north along the coast.
The shores have a very rugged appearance, there being numerous high
ridges of primitive rocks running far out into the sea in an east and
west direction, the line of stratification dipping to the south at an
angle of 75 deg. with the horizon. In many places these rocks were
thickly studded with small garnets. The rise and fall of the tide was
13-1/2 feet.
During the whole of the 16th the weather was cloudy, and it rained
heavily all night; but on the 17th the wind increased to a gale, the sky
cleared up, and a satisfactory observation was obtained by the
artificial horizon, which placed us in latitude 64 deg. 6' 45" N. As we
were more than ten miles north of the situation where I had observed the
latitude on the 14th, the difference between the latitude obtained then
and that of our present situation shews the uncertainty of observations
made with the natural horizon when there is much refraction, or when
there is ice in the neighbourhood. The variation of the compass was 20
deg. 10' W. The gale continued all day, and being from the westward much
ice was driven off shore.
18th. Last night the wind moderated a little, but about 2 A.M. it blew
more strongly than before. The forenoon was sufficiently fine to permit
me to observe the dip of the needle 86 deg. 36' 5" N.
In the afternoon, when collecting plants, I discovered some willows of a
larger growth than those we had before found, and I carried a load of
them to the boat. In the evening there was no ice to be seen either
along shore or in the offing, but it still blew too hard for us to get
under weigh. The temperature of the air to-day varied from 50 deg. to 55
deg. Just as I had turned in for the night, it was reported that two
white bears were close at hand. I immediately got up, and set off "sans
culottes" to have a share of the anticipated sport, when I soon
discovered that two harmless deer in their winter coats had been
mistaken for bears. It was high water to-day at 11h. 40m. A.M., the rise
being 15 feet. By this it will appear that 3 o'clock is the time of high
water at full and change of the moon.
At 3 next morning, the wind having moderated, we started, and ran along
shore at a fine rate for ten miles; but here the coast turning more to
the westward we could not lie our course, and were compelled to put
ashore until the flood tide made; for it was found that, contrary to
what we had previously experienced, the current ran to the northward
during the flow of the tide, and in an opposite direction during the
ebb, this being probably caused by the strait north of Southampton
Island being blocked up with ice. After an hour's stay we got under
weigh again at a few minutes after seven, and turned to windward. Our
latitude at noon was 64 deg. 20' 51" N. It now fell calm; but this had
not continued more than half an hour before a light breeze sprung up from
the east, and at 1 P.M. we passed Whale Point. A great many whales were
seen to-day, and one of them was swimming amongst a large flock of king
ducks, apparently amusing itself with the confusion that it caused when
rising to breathe. Temperature of the air 50 deg.--water 38 deg.
20th. It being calm for some time during the night, we came to anchor
whilst the tide was against us; but at 6 A.M. we again continued our
route. There was much ice lying along the shore of Southampton Island,
its proximity being indicated by the temperature of the water (35 deg.)
this morning. Some more large whales were noticed. The ice was again
too close packed to permit us to advance; we therefore landed, and the
latitude 64 deg. 56' 33" N., and the variation of the compass 36 deg.
13' W., were observed. The musquitoes were very numerous and
troublesome, but, nevertheless, the sportsmen succeeded in shooting
five deer.
On the 21st and 22d we had a continued struggle amongst heavy and
close-packed ice until we reached Wager River Estuary, where we were
detained all day by the immense quantities driving in with the flood and
out again with the ebb tide, which ran at the rate of 7 or 8 miles an
hour, forcing up the floes into large mounds, and grinding them against
the rocks, with a noise resembling thunder.
During the ebb tide the eddy currents once or twice brought in the ice
with great force, which would have smashed our boats, as they lay in
rather an exposed situation along the face of some steep rocks, had it
not fortunately taken the ground before it reached us. During our stay,
a meridian observation of the sun by artificial horizon gave latitude
65 deg. 15' 36" N., variation 48 deg. 13' W.
23d. There was a thin coat of ice on the water this morning, the
temperature of which at midnight was 2 deg. below the freezing point,
that of the air 36 deg. As our position was far from safe, we were kept
on the alert all night, and got under weigh at half-past three, for the
purpose of finding some safer harbour. To get to a small bay a mile and
a half to the west of us, we had more than once to pull for our lives,
as the eddy currents already spoken of caused such sudden and uncertain
movements among the ice that there was no telling on what side we were
to expect it. With much difficulty we entered our harbour, and pulled
half a mile up, so as to be safe from the ice, which we had reason to
expect would come in with the flood. The latitude of our new anchorage
was 65 deg. 16' 8" N. This is the most northerly point on the south side
of Wager River, which appears to be not very correctly laid down in the
charts. The channel is not more than four or five miles broad. In the
evening, being wearied with delay, as soon as the flood tide slacked, we
pushed out into the stream, and when in mid-channel had the advantage of
a fine breeze, which enabled us to stem the current that still ran at
the rate of five miles an hour. The boats had some narrow escapes, and
the Magnet received a severe squeeze, but fortunately sustained no
injury, and we were soon in safety on the north side of the channel.
24th. Having pulled along shore all night, we cast anchor at half-past
five this morning to take breakfast and give rest to the men. Our course
since crossing Wager River had been among a number of small rocky
islands, between which we had some difficulty in threading our way, but
we did not see any signs of a second opening into Wager Bay, although a
sharp look-out was kept. A light air of fair wind springing up, we got
under weigh at a few minutes before 8, and stood on to the northward,
the ebb tide again running with us. At mid-day the temperature of the
air was 45 deg., water 32 deg.
In the afternoon the breeze increased, and at a quarter-past seven we
rounded Cape Hope, and ran into Repulse Bay. By an amplitude of the sun
whilst setting, the variation of the compass 62 deg. 40' W. was obtained.
As soon as we passed the Cape a great change in the temperature of the
air and water was observed, the former being 56 deg., and the latter 46
deg.
25th. We continued under sail all night, and at 6 in the morning were
within seven miles of the head of the Bay, and cast anchor between a
small island and the shore to get some fuel and cook breakfast. Our
latitude was 66 deg. 26' 57" N. Variation of compass 59 deg. 10' W.
In the afternoon, the wind being ahead, we plied to windward, and when
entering Gibson's Cove, observed with much joy four Esquimaux on the
shore. I immediately landed near them, and taking Ouligbuck's son with
me as interpreter, joined the party, and calling out Texma (peace),
shook hands with them. They were at first in great fear, and appeared
half inclined to run away, but on our kind intentions towards them being
explained they became quite at ease, chatting and laughing as if we had
been old acquaintances. They were good-looking, of low stature, and much
more cleanly than those in Hudson's Straits. Their dresses were made of
deer skin, of the form so often described, the coat having a long tail
somewhat resembling that of an English dress coat. Their legs were
encased in waterproof boots made of seal-skin, and they all wore
mittens, which they seldom took off their hands. There were two of them
middle-aged, Oo-too-ou-ni-ak (who had a formidable beard and whiskers)
and Kir-ik-too-oo; the other two were lads from eighteen to twenty years
of age; and we were soon after joined by a fine young fellow with ruddy
cheeks and sparkling black eyes, having an expression of exceeding good
humour in his laughing countenance. Our new friend wore round his head a
narrow leather band of deer-skin ornamented with foxes' teeth, and
appeared to be somewhat of a dandy in his own estimation. None of the
party had ever visited Churchill, and they had neither heard nor seen
anything of Sir John Franklin. From a chart drawn by one of the party, I
was led to infer that the sea (Akkoolee), to the west of Melville
Peninsula, was not much more than forty miles distant in a N.N.W.
direction, and that about thirty-five miles of this distance was
occupied by deep lakes; so that we would have only five miles of land to
haul a boat over--a mode of proceeding which, even had the distance been
much greater, I had intended adopting, in preference to going round by
the Fury and Hecla Straits.
A small river empties its waters into the Bay within a hundred yards of
the place where we landed: this stream, up which the boat was to be
dragged, issues from one of the lakes through which we had to pass.
Leaving all the men but one to unload the boats, I went some miles
inland to trace our intended route. After walking about five miles along
the stream already mentioned (the current in which was very strong), we
arrived at the first lake, a long and narrow body of water, having steep
and in some places rocky banks, which we traced for two miles, and
returned late in the evening to our companions.
FOOTNOTES:
[2] These birds breed in great numbers among the rocks in Orkney, and
are much attached to their young. By chasing the latter in a boat they
become so fatigued as to be easily caught. When one of them is taken
into the boat the parent bird approaches within a few feet, dives under
and around the boat in all directions, and whenever it comes up to the
surface utters a peculiarly melancholy note, at the same time turning
its head in a listening attitude as if expecting to hear an answer from
the prisoner. The anxiety of the mother has always the desired effect,
and it is pleasing to observe the joy with which she swims away with her
recovered young one, nestling it under her wing and never permitting it
to stray a foot from her.
[3] An excellent plan of shooting these birds, and one that I have often
successfully practised, is to roll up a bit of fur or cloth about the
shape and size of a mouse, and drag it after you with a line twenty
yards long. The owl will soon perceive the decoy, although half-a-mile
distant; and after moving his head backwards and forwards as if to make
sure of his object, he takes wing, and making a short sweep in the rear
of his intended prey, pounces upon and seizes it in his claws, affording
the sportsman a fine opportunity of knocking him down. I have sometimes
missed my aim, leaving the owl to fly away with the false mouse (which
the sudden jerk had torn from the line) in his claws. The Indians,
taking advantage of this bird's propensity to alight on elevated spots,
set up pieces of wood in the plains or marshes with a trap fastened to
the top. In this way I have known as many as fifty killed in the early
part of winter by one Indian. The owl is very daring when hungry. I
remember seeing one of these powerful birds fix its claws in a lapdog
when a few yards distant from the owner, and only let go his gripe after
a gun was fired. The poor little dog died of its wounds in a few days.