XI

_The American Spirit Among the Mormons_

Both the Herr Director and his wife had a strange desire to see the

Mormons. They explained it by saying that besides the Indians whom they

had as yet not seen, and the Negroes whom they had seen everywhere, they

always thought of the Mormons as most American, that is most unlike

other people.

The Rocky Mountains, as I had expected, did not impress them. From the

car window they seemed more like elevated plains, with here and there a

restless chain of hills in the distance.

"As restless as the American people," quoth the Herr Director. "Your

plains and your mountains seem to be fighting with each other."

I hoped that the plains would win the fight and pointed out another,

more visible struggle--that of man with the desert. I admitted that the

Rocky Mountains which he had thus far seen were uninteresting from the

scenic standpoint, especially as compared with the beauty of the Alps,

those snow-capped mountains with meadows to the timber line, their

picturesque villages and herders' huts all as trim and neat and finished

as the carving one buys in Interlaken or Luzerne.

From the human standpoint, the Rockies are infinitely more interesting,

for there the elemental struggle is still going on. A giant race is

taming tumultuous rivers, and forcing their waters through flumes and

tunnels into mighty reservoirs on the mountainsides and in the valleys.

No indolent, unaspiring, uninventive, docile people could survive in the

Rockies.

In common with many Americans, my guests believed that this matter of

irrigation is as easy as turning water from a faucet into a basin; and

that all a man has to do is to drop his seed into the ground and watch

it grow. I showed them farms, desolate and forbidding, which men had to

level or lift, ditch and plow and harrow; a back-breaking, often a

heart-breaking task. In such an environment they built shacks which only

accentuated the loneliness--where women lived and children were born,

where hopes were cherished and God was worshipped.

It was an Old Testament environment, the wilderness. Compared with these

pioneers the Israelites had an easy task. They sent spies into the

Promised Land where they found and from which they brought back grapes

and pomegranates; but to stay in the wilderness, to drive back the

drought inch by inch, to kill coyotes and rattlesnakes one by one, to

contend with claim jumpers, real estate agents, water right privileges

and unscrupulous lawyers, and then raise grapes and pomegranates,

families, churches, schools and colleges--that seems to me the greater

and more heroic task. And it was done by men with the courage of

soldiers and the vision of prophets, who turned that land of drought,

alkali and sage-brush into one "flowing with milk and honey." Because in

a certain portion of that desert those who were the pioneers and

performed those tasks were Mormons, takes nothing from the glory of the

achievement.

As we neared Salt Lake City the Frau Directorin looked into every house,

eager to detect the numerous wives whom she expected to see surrounding

one man; while the Herr Director marvelled at the beauty of the vast

Salt Lake valley which, with its poplars and mountains and its

intensively cultivated farms, reminded him of Lombardy, that beautiful

stretch of country along the railway from Milan to Boulogna.

Salt Lake City is sufficiently different from other cities we had seen

to arouse interest; but as in Rome the Vatican overshadows everything

else, so here the Temple and the Tabernacle hold one's attention, and

work upon one's imagination.

We had scarcely put ourselves to rights in our rooms at the Hotel Utah,

as pretentious and comfortable as any in the country, before we were

out on the streets, looking for Mormons. There is a fairly defined type

and I thought I knew it, for I have lectured before Mormon audiences;

but out upon the busy city streets it was quite impossible for me to

gratify the curiosity of the Frau Directorin by pointing them out to

her. I did tell her that a third of the population was non-Mormon and

she looked curiously at two out of every three persons we met without,

however, being able to say definitely that she had seen a real, live

specimen.

Not wishing to join the crowd of tourists who were taken in relays

through the Tabernacle and other buildings open to the curious among the

Gentiles, we walked through the park, and stopping before the monument

to Joseph Smith I took the opportunity to enlighten my guests upon the

history of that singular personality, and the church of which he was the

founder.

Evidently my remarks were overheard, and before I realized it I was in a

discussion of Mormon doctrines with a woman, a zealous defender of her

faith, whose religious zeal shone out of her face, which was homely

enough to need this adornment to save it from repulsive ugliness.

Of course she believed implicitly in the Book of Mormon, the plates of

which were found, and translated from a language which the best informed

philologists have never known to exist; in a God who has body, parts and

passions, in spirits which fill Heaven, and clamor to be born onto the

Earth, in the baptism for the dead, and in that strange doctrine, that

no woman can be saved without being sealed to a man, upon which the

practice of polygamy rested.

The Herr Director did not quite understand, and I had to explain each of

these dogmas as well as I could, and then the Frau Directorin, not

understanding anything, begged to be told about the one thing in which

she was primarily interested, their belief in regard to marriage. I

asked the lady to explain this doctrine of the Mormons, to which she

replied that they are not Mormons, but Latter Day Saints. She was indeed

a saint, for she was not offended by our curiosity, nor the lack of

seriousness with which we were discussing the subject.

She addressed the Frau Directorin: "You are married to your husband."

The Frau Directorin understood and nodded comprehendingly; "but," the

saint continued, "you are married to him only for time."

"No, no, not for a time, not for a time!" the Frau Directorin cried,

clinging to her husband, who had jokingly threatened that when they

reached Utah he would improve the occasion and double his blessings.

"You could not be married to him any other way unless you are sealed

according to our rites; we alone marry for eternity."

"Oh!" said the facetious Herr Director, "you believe in eternal

punishment." When I translated that to the Frau Directorin she slapped

him playfully.

He asked our guide how many wives he could marry if he became a Latter

Day Saint and she said there would be no limit to the wives he could

have sealed to him; but according to the latest ruling of the church and

in conformity with the laws of the United States, only one to live with

here upon the earth; so he decided to "bear the ills he had," and not

"fly to others that he knew not of."

The saint could not have expected her teaching to take root in soil so

shallow, but she determined to sow a few more seeds, and showed us the

interior of the Tabernacle with its "largest organ in the world and its

perfect acoustics." The Frau Directorin tried her charming voice and

sang, much to the delight of the saint, who confessed to three consuming

passions. She loved to sing better than to eat, next in order came

dancing, which seems to be a specialty among Mormons, and evidently does

not interfere with their piety, and third, that of saving feminine souls

from destruction, on account of their unmarried state. To satisfy this

last passion she has had ten thousand of her female ancestors married to

well-known Mormons. To accomplish this, she had her genealogical tree

traced back to prehistoric times, and had spent her fortune upon that

pious extravagance. She told us that she was a plural wife, and living

with her husband merely in the celestial relationship: but she believed

polygamy to be in harmony with the will of God, and that the women as a

whole favor it.

As we returned to our hotel, the Frau Directorin amused herself by

asking each child she met: "How much brothers and sisters you are?" I

was profoundly thankful she did not stop the men to ask them about the

number of their wives.

Having promised her that I would introduce her to a real, live Mormon

who as yet had only one wife, she could hardly wait until dinner, to

which I had invited my Mormon acquaintance. He proved to be a very

normal sort of man whose face betrayed his European peasant ancestry,

his father and mother having emigrated from Switzerland, lured across by

the promise of land, and an all but perfect Zion. They had passed

through every hardship of the early persecutions, and the march across

the plains and mountains. He himself had grown up in the martyrs' faith,

which remained unshaken until he was sent to college.

Although his teachers were Mormons they could not explain away all the

inconsistencies of Mormon history and belief; doubts assailed him, and

when in due course he became a missionary and it fell to his lot to go

to Europe, instead of making converts, he became one. The six years

abroad were spent in the study of history, and, applying the methods to

his own church and its Book of Mormon, he began to doubt, and is a

doubter still. Yet so strong were the ties that bound him that he did

not formally sever his connection with the church, and unless he is

ejected from that communion he will doubtless remain within its fold.

He belongs to an increasingly large group of young Mormons who, while

they themselves have lost faith in the church and its doctrines, believe

that they must remain loyal to those whose belief is still unshaken,

help them to discard the crudest elements of their doctrine and so

gradually democratize the whole institution.

The growth of the church has been checked and the accession of foreign

converts has almost ceased, due to the prohibition of polygamy which

was a lure to the evil minded, and due also to the fact that immigration

is not being encouraged.

Mormonism would have continued to grow in alarming proportions if the

missionaries were still offering a husband, or a part of one, to every

woman, and to every man as many wives as he cared to take unto himself.

Within the church two forces are working towards its liberalization. The

influence of a strong, Gentile population, and the school; while neither

of them will destroy Mormonism, our informant believed that ultimately

it will prove no more formidable or dangerous to the nation than any

other religious denomination, whose government is strongly centralized.

After dinner he took us to his own home, and either from a recently

acquired habit, or from renewed curiosity, the Frau Directorin asked the

little son of the house, "How much brothers and sisters you are?" and I

am not sure she was convinced that his wife whom he introduced to us

was the only wife he had.

He was good enough to insist upon taking us into the country in his

machine to call on his father, his mother having died some years before;

which, however, according to Mormon usage of bygone days did not leave

the old man a widower.

His gnarled, wrinkled face shone when we greeted him in his native

tongue, and it was as pleasant as it was instructive to hear him tell of

the emigration of his people from Switzerland to Missouri, of the stormy

days there, the struggles against infuriated mobs, the long, dangerous

journey across the desert, and the pioneer days in Utah where he had

acquired lands, sheep and oxen, wives and children, in true Old

Testament fashion.

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