Belzoni’s journey to the Red Sea.--Motives for going
there.--Inundation of the Nile.--The Caravan crosses the
Desert.--Account of Ababde, an independent tribe, residing
among the rocks on the coast of the Red Sea.--Journey in search
for the ancient city of Berenice.
Evening came. The curtains were drawn; the candles lighted; and the
juvenile party seated around their mother. “Mother always fulfils her
promise,” whispered Bernard to Emily: “we need not put her in mind of
Belzoni.”
MRS. A. overheard her little boy, smiled, and resumed her narrative:
Our friend was just about to return to the tombs of the kings when we
took leave of him last night, I believe. After a rapid and agreeable
voyage up the Nile, he arrived there and immediately proceeded to take
drawings and models, which employment detained him some months.
And we are now going to accompany him to the Red Sea, which lies
between Egypt and Arabia. You shall soon hear what inducement Belzoni
had for going to the Red Sea.
Our old friend, Mahomed Ali, the Bashaw, had been informed that there
were some sulphur mines in the mountains near the seacoast, and had
sent an escort of soldiers and sixty camels to load with sulphur:
but they had not succeeded in procuring it. However, this poor
success, did not discourage Ali, who was always ready to persevere
in any enterprise. I dare say you recollect that he was of an active
inquisitive disposition; fond of new projects and new pursuits. He
was delighted with the electrical machine, because he had never seen
one before: he had a sugar-mill, a silk manufacture, and a gunpowder
mill; and now he wanted sulphur. Sulphur is used in the composition of
gunpowder: probably that was what he wanted it for.
He was advised to send some Europeans to the Red Sea, who might bring
him word whether it were worth while to proceed in the discovery of
sulphur. Monsieur Calliaud undertook the task, and set off, accompanied
by an escort of soldiers, and miners from Syria. But he found the
mines as sterile as they had been described, and returned back: not
neglecting, however, to visit the emerald mountains in his way,
according to instructions he had received from his former employer, Mr.
Drouetti. He found several caves or mines in those mountains which had
evidently been left by the ancients.
Belzoni saw Monsieur Calliaud, and his account tempted him to commence
his expedition. Monsieur Calliaud told him that there were mines in
the country, and also that he had visited a place called Sakiet Minor,
situated in a valley near the sea, and surrounded by high rocks. From
the account he gave Belzoni, a notion became impressed on the minds
of many antiquaries in Egypt that it must have been the ancient city
of Berenice; and from the moment our friend heard this report, he
conceived the idea of making an excursion into those deserts on a visit
to Berenice, and only waited a proper time to execute his intended
journey.
Time had almost destroyed every remnant of the city; but Calliaud
reported that he had discovered the remains of eight hundred houses,
and several temples, as well as a small chapel cutout of the rock, and
that the ruins resembled those of Pompeii. Of course, our enterprising
antiquary was anxious to inspect the remains of this once celebrated
place, and having hired a boat to take them to Edfu, they embarked near
Gournou. The company consisted of himself, Mr. Beechey, a doctor who
was going to cross the Desert, two Greek servants, a miner, and two
boys to take care of the baggage.
It so happened that just after they commenced their journey, they were
to behold one of the greatest calamities that have occurred in Egypt
in the recollection of any one living. The Nile rose this season three
feet above its usual height, with uncommon rapidity, and carried off
several villages and some hundreds of their inhabitants.
Belzoni witnessed this distressing scene, and he says that he never
saw any picture that could give a more correct idea of the deluge
than the valley of the Nile at this season. The Arabs had expected an
extraordinary inundation this year in consequence of the scarcity of
water the preceding year, but they did not apprehend it would rise to
such a height.
They generally make fences of earth and reeds around their villages,
to keep the water from entering their houses; but the force of this
inundation baffled all their efforts. Their cottages, being built of
earth, could not stand one instant against the current, and the water
had no sooner reached them than it levelled them with the ground. The
rapid stream carried off all that was before it; men, women, children,
cattle, corn, every thing was washed away in a moment, and left the
place where the village Agalta stood, without any thing to indicate
that there had ever been a house on the spot. Belzoni says, they
appeared to be in the midst of a vast lake, containing various islands
and magnificent edifices. On one side they beheld the high rocks and
the temples of Gournou, and on the other the vast ruins of Carnac and
Luxor. He saw several villages in danger of being destroyed like that
of Agalta. The rapid stream had already carried away their fences, and
the unfortunate inhabitants endeavoured to ascend the highest parts,
with the little they could preserve from the water. Their distress was
very great. Some of them had only a few feet of land, and the water was
expected to rise twelve days more, and after that to remain twelve days
at its height, according to the usual term of the inundation.
It was a most distressing sight. Some poor wretches crossed the water
on pieces of wood--bridges might have been contrived from one island
to another, but they would have been no security; some crossed on
buffaloes or cows, and others with reeds tied up in large bundles. The
small spots of high ground, that stood above the water were crowded
with people, who held out their hands and implored help.
[Illustration]
Poor creatures! There obliged to stand dreading every moment to be
washed away; or, at least without any hope of relief before the end of
twenty-four days.
The scanty stock of provisions they had saved was the only subsistence
they could expect. The Cacheffs and Caimakans of the country did all
they could to assist the unfortunate creatures with their little boats,
but they were so few in proportion to what were wanted that they could
not relieve the greater part of them.
Belzoni would, most willingly, have taken some in his own little boat,
but he knew it would be dangerous to attempt it, for so many would have
entered it at once that the boat would probably have sunk.
On their arrival at Erments, where happily the land was very high, they
found many of the neighbouring people collected.
Belzoni landed there, and employed his boat to fetch some of the poor
wretches. He was courageous, courage is generally united with humanity
and kindness. He was therefore rejoiced to find that he could be of
some little service, and his boat was sent again and again in company
with others to fetch the people from the opposite village. It at first
returned with men and boys; then with men, corn and cattle; then with
more corn, buffaloes, sheep, goats, asses, and dogs; and then with
the women, who, I am sorry to say, are there treated as the most
insignificant part of their property.
With the gratifying reflection of having been of some little service,
our party arrived at Esne.
Their old friend, Khalil Bey was from home; they therefore proceeded to
the island of Hovasee, on the opposite side of the Nile to Edfu.
They stopped there only long enough to procure camels and men to
accompany them across the desert, and they went on shore on the eastern
side, and set off the next day.
They had sixteen of those patient, gentle creatures, the camels; six
of them were laden with provisions, water, and culinary utensils.
Camels were much better than horses, because they are used to carry
merchandise across the large sandy plains, which would be impassable
unless Providence had created this useful animal, which is capable of
enduring hunger and fatigue, and wonderfully provided with a resource
against thirst by an internal formation, which enables it to drink at
one time water enough to serve it for many days.
The party was increased by a soldier from Esne, four camel drivers, and
a Scheik to guide them. Fourteen men in all.
[Illustration]
Scheik Ibrahim their guide, was an Arab. He had engaged to attend the
caravan as chief, promising to conduct Belzoni and his friends to the
ancient Berenice.
They set off very early in the morning, and arrived at the first
well in three hours. There they remained the whole day waiting for
Ibrahim, who had not yet joined them. However the following morning he
appeared, and they entered a good and level road through a valley. Many
sunt and sycamore trees were interspersed about this valley with the
thorny plant called basillah, upon which the camels feed. It is green
I believe in the spring, but it soon becomes dry, and of course of a
straw colour. It bears a small fruit of the size of a pea. The stalk
resembles that of a rush, and it never grows higher than three feet.
As our party advanced, the valley became narrow, and the trees, in
some parts, thicker; but they gradually diminished until Belzoni and
his companions found themselves on a wide and open plain; they took up
their abode for the day at a sort of temple or enclosure, evidently
built for the accommodation of travellers. The next morning they
pursued their journey. Not the least vegetation was to be seen any
where. Sometimes they passed over wide and level plains, and sometimes
crossed hills of loose sand, till two hours before sunset, when they
entered a valley called Beezak by the Arabs.
Several trees were scattered about in this valley, and the usual thorn
also, so the camels had a feast. They halted there for the night, and
Belzoni was gratified by perceiving the marks of camels’ feet impressed
on the sand, whence he concluded that he was on the great road to
Berenice.
The next morning the caravan, as in the eastern countries they call a
company of travellers, who, for mutual protection and safety agree to
cross the desert regions together, was divided into three different
detachments.
The luggage and provisions were sent forward; the doctor was ill, it
was therefore dangerous for him to proceed any farther and he returned
towards the Nile, whilst Mr. Belzoni and his friend Mr. Beechey went a
little out of the way to see something that the Ababde had mentioned.
The Ababde, are an independent tribe, who, preferring freedom and
liberty to any thing else, reside among the solitary rocks and deserts
which extend from the confines of Suez to Nubia, on the borders of the
Red Sea, where they live upon dhourra and water. But such is their love
of liberty, that they would rather submit to this mode of life than to
the command of any government on earth.
OWEN.--So would I! rather than be subject to the caprice of a
tyrannical power at all events. Liberty, independence, for me, mother!
Will you tell me something more about the Ababde? I admire them very
much.
MRS. A.--Perhaps your admiration would be lessened were you to see
them: they are of small stature, badly made, and have generally a pipe
in their mouths. Sometimes, but not often, they kill a lean goat, and
this they consider a great feast. Their principal care is for their
camels, which are their support; for when they are arrived at a certain
growth they send them to be exchanged for dhourra, which as I have told
you constitutes their food.
Some of the most industrious of the Ababde cut wood and make charcoal
with it, which they send to the Nile on their camels, and barter it for
dhourra, tallow, and tent cloth. Few, however, undergo such a labour,
for they like to live at their ease.
BERNARD.--Well, mother, I would much rather be one of the harmless
Ababde, and cut down sunt trees among the rocks and deserts, load my
camel, and honestly earn the reward of my labour, than one of the
deceitful Arabs at Gournou.
MRS. A.--The Arabs of Gournou seem to have made a strong impression
on your mind, my dear. However, I am of your opinion, that a poor and
honest life is preferable to one dependent upon mean resources.
Belzoni entered with his friends into a sandy plain, with rocks of
white stone on each side nearly perpendicular, and passed through
several beautiful and romantic valleys. The soil was sandy and stony,
but the thorny trees and the sunt trees formed a complete forest in
many parts. One who wishes to retire from the world might find a
charming retreat in these wilds, were it not for the want of water,
and all that is necessary to the subsistence of human life, besides
the intense heat of the sun, which on calm days is so great as to be
almost insupportable. Advancing onwards, in three hours they reached a
summit, whence they perceived at some distance what appeared to be the
walls of a large and extensive town surrounded by high rocks, as if
by fortifications. On their approach, they found it was an extensive
sandy plain, with several granite eminences. From this place they
travelled to the left, towards the valley in which it was intended they
should halt. The caravan had reached the place before them, and they
proceeded on their march till they overtook it near a well, situated
in the midst of rocks, which, interspersed with trees, formed an
amphitheatre round it. There they remained a day or two.
Whilst there, they were visited by a number of the Ababde. It was a
novelty for strangers to come so near them; the greater part of them
had never quitted their mountains, and those few who had been to the
Nile to purchase dhourra were accounted men of great knowledge. They
said that they were content to live in that wild state, as all their
forefathers had done, to remain free from tyranny and despotism; and
that they would be quiet if they were left so; but on the contrary they
would sooner perish than lose their liberty.
You would have been amused if you could have seen with what curiosity
they eyed the strangers, and at their ignorance of things in common
use with us. One of them perceived a piece of lemon-peel lying on the
ground and wondered what it was, whilst another took it up and ate it
with an air of great self-sufficiency. I dare say he had been to the
Nile, and did so to show the great knowledge he had acquired--that
lemon-peel is good to eat.
Belzoni gave them a piece of loaf sugar, and when they had eaten it,
they declared that the valley he came from must be better than theirs,
as it produced such good and sweet bread.
OWEN.--Had they arms, mother? But I suppose not, for as their
neighbours did not injure them, of course they would not wish to
attack their neighbours.
MRS. A.--Unfortunately they had some use for them, for the soldiers and
miners, who had accompanied Monsieur Calliaud to the emerald mines,
which are among these mountains, had behaved very ill towards them,
assailed their huts, and committed many depredations, of which the
Ababde complained very much. Their arms were chiefly slings, spears and
swords.
Early on the morning of the 28th Belzoni and his party again set off,
and travelled for two days, when they saw the Red Sea at a great
distance, and bent their course through several valleys to a very high
mountain called Zubara.
This name is given it in consequence of the emeralds which have
been found there. At the foot of this mountain about fifty men were
encamped, and at work in the old mines of the ancients, in hopes of
finding some of the precious stones. Their work had commenced about
six months before, but had been attended with no success, as the mines
were nearly choked up with rubbish. Belzoni contrived to acquire all
the information he could about the object of their expedition and
received very favourable accounts of it, being assured that the ruins
of the town of which he was in search was only six hours’ distance;
he therefore hoped to have a fine view of it before night. Whilst the
camels halted he went to see the entrances into the mines. They were
something like the common tombs or mummy pits at Gournou, cut in the
rock, and extended a great distance before the emeralds were found.
Belzoni procured an old man from among the natives to guide them to the
ruins of the anticipated Berenice, and sought information from some of
the miners who had been at the very place when Monsieur Calliaud was
there. Their accounts certainly did not correspond with his; he had
raised Belzoni’s expectations very highly, you know.
EMILY.--Oh yes, mother. There must have been a city I am sure, for
Monsieur Calliaud told Mr. Belzoni that he had discovered the remains
of eight hundred houses, and several temples, as well as a small chapel
cut out of the rock, and that the ruins resembled those of Pompeii. I
dare say that these people went only in search of mines, and did not
pay much regard to the beauties of architecture, or the grandeur of
ancient ruins!
MRS. A.--So Belzoni thought; and, encouraged by this hope, they
prepared for a departure the following morning. When they had gone
about half a mile, they perceived that they were without their guides.
Both the Scheik Ibrahim, and the old man who was to conduct them over
the country to see the town and other places, were missing; they were
consequently obliged to return in search of them, and found them hid
behind a rock, conversing secretly with each other.
This appeared rather suspicious, but they professed to have been in
search of a sheep which was stolen in the night, and they had nothing
else to live upon; but, as they said they could not find it, they again
set off for the much-desired and ancient city of Berenice.
They trusted themselves to the guidance of the old man, though they
were not pleased with his manœuvres. The road lay through high rocks
and narrow valleys, embosomed with trees, until they had gradually
approached the mountain of Zubara, the highest of the emerald
mountains. Here they were led by the old man in various directions,
through wild and craggy places, for seven hours. He told that the
spot he wanted was near, but that they had a high pass to go over the
mountain named Arrarie.
BERNARD.--Before we follow them, will you be so good as to tell me
where Pompeii is? Emily says that Monsieur Calliaud stated that the
ruins of Berenice resembled those of that city.
MRS. A.--It was once a large city of Italy, my love, but was
overwhelmed by an eruption of Mount Vesuvius. About fifty years since,
a farmer was digging for a spring of water or deep ditch, when he came
to the top of magnificent buildings. This was the first discovery for
many hundred years; and now several streets and the ruins of many
majestic buildings have been discovered. The name of the place was
Pompeii.