[Illustration]
FRUITS OF ENTERPRIZE
EXHIBITED IN THE
ADVENTURES OF BELZONI
IN
EGYPT AND NUBIA
WITH AN ACCOUNT OF
HIS DISCOVERIES IN THE PYRAMIDS,
AMONG THE RUINS OF CITIES, AND IN THE ANCIENT TOMBS.
“LABOR OMNIA VINCIT.”
[Illustration]
A NEW EDITION, REVISED, WITH ADDITIONS.
NEW YORK:
CHARLES S. FRANCIS, 252 BROADWAY
BOSTON:
JOSEPH H. FRANCIS, 128 WASHINGTON STREET.
1843.
NOTICE.
Placed in an amphitheatre of boundless extent, and surrounded by an
immense variety of objects, young persons are naturally inquisitive,
and delighted with every new accession of knowledge; and as truth is no
longer deemed incompatible with amusement, the most pleasing mode of
conveying the former appears to be to blend it with the latter.
Influenced by this belief, the compiler of this little volume was
induced to place it in the “Library of Instructive Amusement;” she
is happy in having an opportunity of acknowledging her thanks to the
enterprising traveller, who politely gave her his permission to do so.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Bernard’s picture.--Situation of Egypt.--Belzoni introduced.--Motives
for his going into Egypt.--Poor success of his hydraulic machine.--His
thoughts turned towards the Antiquities of the country.--Difficulty in
removing Young Memnon from Thebes to Cairo.--Belzoni’s visit to a Mummy
cave.--Deceit of the Arabs. 13
CHAPTER II.
Egyptian Customs.--Belzoni goes up the Nile to Nubia.--Visits the
Island of Elephantis.--Arrives at Ybsambul.--Attempts to open its
magnificent Temple.--Obliged for want of time and money to give
up the project.--Visits the little island of Mainarty.--Danger
on the Cataract.--Returns to Thebes.--Removal of Young Memnon to
Cairo.--Belzoni resides for a short time at Rosetta. 45
CHAPTER III.
Bernard’s perseverance.--Belzoni’s second Voyage.--Rapid Journey
from Minieh to Thebes.--Superb Temple at Carnac.--Works carried
on both at Gournou and Carnac.--Mummy Caves.--Belzoni’s object
in entering them.--Manufactures of the ancient Egyptians.--Their
Idols.--Curious Habitations at Gournou.--He revisits Ybsambul.--Opens
the Temple.--Returns highly gratified to Thebes. 70
CHAPTER IV.
Emily amused with a description of Greenland.--Belzoni makes the valley
of Beban el Malook the scene of his researches.--He enters and explores
the tomb of Psammuthis.--Receives a visit from Hamed Aga.--Returns
to Cairo.--Visits the Pyramids.--Time and purpose of their erection
uncertain.--Enters one which for more than one thousand years had
appeared a solid mass of stones. 101
CHAPTER V.
Belzoni’s journey to the Red Sea.--Motives for going there.--Inundation
of the Nile.--The Caravan crosses the Desert.--Account of Ababde, an
independent tribe, residing among the rocks on the coast of the Red
Sea.--Journey in search for the ancient city of Berenice. 126
CHAPTER VI.
Search for the ancient city of Berenice.--The boats of the Ababde
fishermen described.--Discovers the remains of the Berenice mentioned
by a former traveller.--Returns towards Esne.--Meets with two shepherd
girls tending their sheep on the mountains.--Sufferings of travellers
in crossing the Deserts.--The caravan reaches the banks of the
Nile.--Belzoni returns to Gournou. 140
CHAPTER VII.
Dr. Franklin’s kite.--Some sailors ascend Pompey’s Pillar by means of
a paper kite.--Removal of the obelisk from the Island of Philoe.--It
falls into the Nile.--Ingenious method of raising it.--It is launched
down the cataract.--Arrives in safety in Rosetta.--Belzoni goes to
Beban el Malook.--Completes his drawings and models of the Tomb.--Bids
final adieu to Thebes.--Traverses the Western Desert in search of the
Temple of Jupiter Ammon.--Procures a donkey at Benisoeuf.--Reaches the
Lake Mœris.--Rose-trees in profusion. 156
CHAPTER VIII.
Crosses Lake Mœris and visits the temple of Haron among the rocks near
the lake.--Disturbs a hyena.--Account of the famous Labyrinth.--Visit
to the Elloah.--An interview with Khalil Bey.--Account of
the Bedouins.--Belzoni crosses the Desert attended by Scheik
Grumar.--Brought to a halt by a sentinel with a musket.--Arrival at
Zaboo.--Interview with the Scheik and Kadee of El Cassar.--Belzoni
goes to their village.--Discovers the seat of the temple.--Meets
with an unfortunate accident on his return to Zaboo.--Reaches
Benisoeuf.--Arrives at Cairo.--Embarks for Europe.--Returns to
England. 172
INTRODUCTION.
CONTAINING A SHORT ACCOUNT OF THE LAST DAYS OF BELZONI.
Since the first appearance of this little work, the enterprising
individual whose discoveries it relates, and who gave his permission
for its publication, has departed this life. It was hoped that through
his means some account of places, imperfectly described by others,
might have been obtained; but the decree of Providence has prevented
the accomplishment of so desirable an object. The following short
account of his latter days will not be considered an improper appendage
to the work:--
“Died at Gato, near Benin, in Africa, on the 3d of December
1823, Mr. G. BELZONI, so well known for his Egyptian tombs. He
was so far on his way into the interior, endeavouring to reach
Houssa, when a dysentery put an end to his valuable life. He
was buried at Gato the day after his decease, and a board, with
the following inscription, was placed over his grave:--
HERE LIE THE REMAINS OF
G. BELZONI,
Who was attacked with Dysentery, at Benin,
(on his way to Houssa and Timbuctoo,)
on the 26th of November, and died
at this place,
December 3d, 1823.
“Mr. Belzoni had been landed by Captain Filmore, R. N. at
Benin. Captain Filmore exerted himself arduously in assisting
the intrepid traveller, and discharged a man from his vessel,
who was a native of Houssa, that he might accompany Mr. B. on
his route. The following extract of a letter contains most
of the late particulars respecting this enterprising and
scientific individual:--
“On the night of the 24th of November, Mr. Belzoni left us,
with Mr. Houtson, for Gato. On parting with us he seemed a
little agitated, particularly when the crew of the brig which
brought him, (to each of whom he had made a present) gave him
three loud cheers on leaving the vessel? “God bless you, my
fine fellows! and send you a happy sight of your country and
friends!” Was his answer. On the 3d of December I received
a letter from Mr. Houtson, requesting me to come to Benin,
as Mr. B. was lying dangerously ill; and, in case of death,
wished a second person to be present. I was prevented going,
not only by business, but by a severe fever which had then hold
of me. On the 5th, I had a second letter from Mr. H. with
the particulars of Mr. B.’s end; and one from himself, almost
illegible, dated December 2, requesting me to assist in the
disposal of his effects, and to remit the proceeds home to his
agents, Messrs Briggs, Brothers & Co, America Square, London,
together with a beautiful Amethyst ring, which he seemed
particularly desirous should be delivered to his wife, with the
assurance that he died in the fullest affection for her, as he
found himself too weak to write his last wishes and adieus.
“At the time of Mr. Belzoni’s death, Mr. Houtson had every
thing arranged with the King of Benin for his departure, and,
had his health continued, there is no doubt he would have
succeeded. Mr. Belzoni passed at Benin as an inhabitant, or
rather native, of the interior, who had come to England when a
youth, and was now trying to return to his country. The kings
and emigrands (or nobles) gave credit to this, Mr. Belzoni
being in a Moorish dress, with his beard nearly a foot in
length. There was, however, some little jealousy amongst them,
which was removed by a present or two, well applied; and the
King of Benin’s messenger was to accompany Mr. Belzoni with
the King’s cane, and as many men as were considered necessary
for a guard and baggage-carriers. The King’s name is respected
as far as Houssa, and he has a messenger, or ambassador,
stationary there. On Mr. Belzoni’s arrival at Houssa, he was
to leave his guard there, and proceed to Timbuctoo, the King
not guaranteeing his safety farther than Houssa, and Timbuctoo
not being known at Benin. On his return to Houssa, he would
make the necessary preparations for going down the Niger, and
despatch his messengers and guard back with letters to his
agents and to Mr. John Houtson: the messenger to be rewarded
according to the account the letters gave of his behaviour, and
the King to receive a valuable stated present. This was the
plan, and I think it would have proved fortunate, had Mr. B.
lived.
“Mr. Belzoni was a native of Padua, and had known England many
years. He first visited Egypt with a view of erecting hydraulic
engines for the Pasha, to assist in irrigating the country.
In stature, he was above six feet and a half, and possessed
of great bodily strength. His manners and deportment were
marked by great suavity and mildness, and he had a genuine love
for science in all its branches. He was brave, ardent, and
persevering in pursuit of his objects; and his decease at the
moment of a strong hope of success, must be deeply felt by all
who estimate the true interests of science and the light of
discovery at their true value!”
[Illustration]
CHAPTER I.
Bernard’s picture.--Situation of Egypt.--Belzoni
introduced.--Motives for his going into Egypt.--Poor success
of his hydraulic machine.--His thoughts turned towards the
Antiquities of the country.--Difficulty in removing Young
Memnon from Thebes to Cairo.--Belzoni’s visit to a Mummy
cave.--Deceit of the Arabs.
“The last--the very last pyramid! dear Laura,” exclaimed the little
Bernard, as he climbed upon his sister’s chair, and surveyed a sketch
that she was copying, from one in a large folio volume.
“And now, when you have shaded the side of that pyramid, will you draw
the wheel of my cart? I am quite, quite tired of your tombs, and your
pillars, and your ruins, and your monuments, falling this way and that
way:--I would much rather know how to draw the spokes of the wheels of
my little cart:--it is impossible for me to finish my picture;--you see
I have made my wagon turning down a shady lane,--it is evening--the
lamps are lit on the posts--the moon is peeping behind the trees, and
the smoke is rising from the chimnies of my carter’s cottage--but my
poor cart has no wheels because I cannot draw spokes--and now, is that
tiresome pyramid done, dear Laura?”
“If you knew all that render those pyramids so interesting to Laura,
my love,” said Bernard’s mother, “you would not be in such great haste
to see them finished; indeed I believe you would willingly give up the
pleasure of seeing your own little picture completed, to watch your
sister draw hers.”
“Indeed, mother!” exclaimed the lively boy--“where are they, and why do
you think that the account of them will amuse me so much?”
“My story is a long one,” replied his mother, “so I will not begin it
till after tea, and then we can go on without interruption.”
“Oh, mamma! that will be delightful! quite delightful! for we can have
a settled evening; and as to my cart, Laura may put in the spokes
to-morrow--the wheels will not signify for one night, will they,
mother?” exclaimed Bernard, and, without waiting for an answer, he
jumped up, fetched his little straw hat from its hook in the hall, and
ran across the lawn to tell Owen and Emily, who were busily engaged
training a white clematis round one of the pillars of the alcove. They
quickly returned together. Tea was despatched, and the cheerful group
repaired to the library. The maps were laid open on the library table.
Laura seated herself between her two brothers, and Emily whose blue
eyes sparkled with joy, placed herself by the side of her mother.
“And now, why do you think that Laura’s picture would please me so
much, mother?” said Bernard; “where are those pyramids?”
“Think for a moment, my dear. Do you not know the name of the country
so renowned for these famous mementos of ancient art?--you have often
been told.”
Bernard paused--“In Egypt, mother,--in Egypt, an ancient kingdom of
Africa.”
“Can you give me any account of Egypt--do you know anything respecting
that country?”
Bernard paused again, but Emily looked up wishfully and said,
“May I tell you what I know, mother?” Her mother nodded assent.
“Egypt,” said Emily, “consists of a narrow vale on both sides of the
Nile, bounded by ridges of mountains or hills. Nubia is on the south;
on the west it joins the great sandy deserts; on the north it is washed
by the Mediterranean; and on the east by the Red Sea, except where it
is joined to Asia by the narrow neck of land called the Isthmus of
Suez.”
“I recollect more about Egypt, now that Emily mentions the Nile,”
exclaimed her little brother: “I have often heard of the rushes that
grew on the banks of that river--the people used to make their paper
of them, and write all their books upon it--all that they wrote--they
placed the thin leaves of the stem one over the other, then flattened
them, and platted them as Fanny plats her little paper mats; so that
one leaf lay one way and another another way, and then they were stuck
together with the muddy water of the Nile, and the leaves were dried
and pressed with heavy weights--and rubbed and pressed again a great
many times.”
“And,” said Owen, “papa has often told us that in Egypt there is
very little rain, and that the Nile at certain periods overflows its
banks, and carries with its waters a rich mud, which renders the soil
fruitful, without that labour which the farmers in England are obliged
to bestow, before the fields are fit to receive the grain. In Egypt,
they have only to put the seeds into the ground.”
“But if the Nile should not overflow, just when they expected it,” said
Bernard, “what would they do then?”
“This sometimes happens,” said Laura, “but you will hear by and by
of the means which have been taken to prevent the famine which is
generally occasioned by such a calamity, and of the mode which is
used to supply the deficiency, if the river do not afford its usual
assistance.”
“Well, mamma,” said Owen, “now that we know where Egypt is--now for
the pyramids:--whereabouts are they, and for what purpose were they
erected?”
“Not so fast, my love. Let us proceed gradually. I have not yet told
you that Egypt is divided into Upper, Middle, and Lower; and that it is
a country renowned in history, having been once the seat, if not the
parent of the sciences. It is not only remarkable for those surprising
monuments of antiquity, the famous pyramids, which baffle the
researches of the deepest antiquary to fix upon their origin, but also
for many other “glorious structures,” astonishing remains of ancient
temples, pompous palaces, obelisks, columns, statues, and paintings.
Thus is Egypt rendered so interesting; and it is at the present time
peculiarly so to us, because a gentleman has lately, with indefatigable
zeal, made many researches in that country, and his curious discoveries
among the pyramids and temples have excited the public attention in no
small degree. He has spent many years in this arduous employment, and
is now amply compensated in knowing that they have not been spent in
vain.”
“Oh, mamma!” exclaimed Emily, “tell me the name of this gentleman:--why
did he go there? Was he fond of antiquities? How did he manage to enter
the pyramids? and what did he find in them?”
“I cannot give a reply to so many questions in a breath, my little
girl; however, I will answer one of them:--the name of the gentleman I
mentioned is BELZONI.”
“A native of England, mamma?”
“No; a native of Padua.”
“Padua, an ancient, large, and celebrated city of Italy,” said Laura,
as she pointed to the map.
“Is it all true that you are going to tell us, mother?” said Owen.
“Perfectly true. The account I purpose giving you of Egypt and Nubia is
taken from Belzoni’s own Travels, recently published: you may therefore
rely on its correctness.
“Unfortunate circumstances falling out in his native country, compelled
Belzoni to leave it, and about twenty years ago he came to England.
Here he married, and contrived to live on his own industry, and the
knowledge he had acquired in various branches whilst at Rome, in
which city he had spent many of his juvenile hours. He now turned
his thoughts to hydraulics, a science to which he had before paid
attention, and which in the end was the principal cause of his going
into Egypt.”
“I must interrupt you dear mamma,” said Bernard; “will you tell me what
is meant by _hydraulics_, and why Belzoni should go into Egypt on that
account?”
“The science which has for its object the motion of fluids is called
hydraulics, and its principal object is to furnish us with the means
of conducting water from one situation to another by canals or other
means. Belzoni imagined that a hydraulic machine would be of great use
in Egypt to irrigate the fields, which want water only to make them
produce at any time of the year.”
“Then the soil is fertile, and the climate warm, I suppose, mamma?”
said Owen.
“Yes: the soil of Egypt is particularly noted for the fertility
occasioned by its wonderful river; and, while thinking of this, we are
led to observe the two beautiful prospects which, owing to it, Egypt
exhibits at two seasons of the year. During _our_ summer the climate
_there_ is excessively warm, and it is impossible to describe a scene
more delightful than that which the country presents at the first
overflowing of the Nile; the spectator beholds a spacious sea, spotted
with innumerable towns and villages, sometimes contrasted with groves
of palm-trees, while a magnificent display of sylvan and mountainous
scenery bounds the extensive prospect.
“On the contrary, if the view be taken when _our_ gardens and fields
are clothed in the robes of winter, the whole country _there_ resembles
one large meadow, covered with the finest verdure, and enamelled with
the choicest flowers; the plains embellished with flocks and herds; the
air, pure and salubrious, scented with orange and lemon blossoms, which
blow in luxuriance.”
“I should like to live in Egypt, mamma!” exclaimed Bernard.
“But inconveniences are to be met with there, as well as every where
else, my love. The heat is oppressive to all who are unused to it:
indeed, the southerly winds are sometimes so sultry as to oblige the
natives to immure themselves in vaults or caves; and not unfrequently
these winds raise such clouds of sand as to obscure the light of
the sun, and, even to those who are used to them, to be almost
insupportable. The people call them poisonous winds, or winds of the
Desert, and, during the three days that they generally last, the
streets are forsaken; and in a melancholy condition is the unfortunate
traveller, whom they surprise remote from shelter.”
“I wonder,” exclaimed Emily, “whether Belzoni ever encountered them.
Do you think he did, mamma?”
“I will begin my account, and then you may hear a description of the
various adventures he met with.”
Mrs. A. then began to relate some circumstances of _Belzoni’s
Researches in Egypt and Nubia_, as follows.
Some years after Mr. Belzoni had resided in England, he formed the
resolution of going to the south of Europe; and, taking Mrs. Belzoni
with him, he visited Portugal and Spain, and afterwards the small
but important isle of Malta, which lies to the south of Sicily,
and is celebrated for its fine port and for the strength of its
fortifications, now belonging to Great Britain. Hence they embarked for
Egypt, and arrived in safety in Alexandria, on the seacoast.
On entering the harbour of this city, Belzoni was informed that the
plague was there. To an European, who had never been in that country,
this was alarming intelligence. Happily, however, it nearly ceased in
a short time; and as his principal view was to go on to Cairo, the
capital of Egypt, he hired a boat, and they embarked with an English
gentleman, who was going up the Nile.
This city is one hundred miles from the mouth of the Nile. Owing to
contrary winds, it was some days before our travellers landed at
Boolac, within a mile of it. At this place a bustling scene presented
itself, and the majestic appearance of Turkish soldiers in various
costumes, Arabs of many tribes, boats, camels, horses, and asses, all
in motion formed a striking picture. Immediately after landing, they
went to Cairo; but, as the holy fathers of the convent of Terrasanta
could not receive women within their walls, they were accommodated in
an old house at Boolac, belonging to a gentleman, the interpreter and
director of all foreign affairs of Mahomed Ali, the Turkish Viceroy, or
Bashaw, by whom Egypt is governed.
He was a man of great acuteness of understanding, and well disposed
towards strangers; which was fortunate for Belzoni as he had to apply
through this gentleman to the Bashaw respecting his hydraulic machine,
for which purpose he went to Egypt.
Travellers are frequently obliged to submit to inconvenience, and so
were ours. The house they inhabited was so old and out of repair, that
it appeared every moment as though ready to fall on their heads: all
the windows were shut up with broken wooden rails; the staircase was
in so bad a condition, that scarcely a step was left entire; the door
was merely fastened by a pole placed against it, having neither lock
nor any thing else to secure the entrance. There were many rooms in the
house, but the ceiling in all of them was in a most threatening state.
The whole furniture consisted of a single mat, in one of the best
rooms, which they considered as the drawing-room.
No chairs are to be had in this country; so they sat on the ground,
and a box or a trunk served as a table. Fortunately, they had a few
plates, as well as knives and forks; and James, an Irish lad, whom they
took with them, procured a set of culinary articles.
Such were the accommodations our enterprising travellers met with at
Boolac!
Although Belzoni’s chief object was not to see antiquities at that
time, yet he felt desirous of visiting the famous pyramids, which are
at the foot of those mountains that separate Egypt from Libya.
MRS. A.--The English gentleman who accompanied Belzoni up the Nile
obtained an escort of soldiers from the Bashaw, and went with him to
the pyramids one evening, intending to ascend one of them the following
morning to see the sun rise. Accordingly, they were on the top long
before the dawn of day. The scene they beheld delighted them, being
grand and majestic beyond description. A mist over the wide sandy
plains formed a veil which vanished gradually as the sun rose, and
at length opened to their view that beautiful land, once the site of
Memphis. The distant view of the smaller pyramids, on the south, marked
the extension of that vast capital; while the solemn spectacle of the
immense sandy desert on the west, stretching as far as the eye could
reach, inspired sublimer feelings. The fertile land on the North, with
the winding course of the Nile descending towards the sea; the rich
appearance of Cairo and its glittering minarets; the beautiful plain,
which extends from the pyramids to that city: the thick groves of
palm-trees in the midst of the fertile valley, altogether formed a
scene Belzoni was well calculated to enjoy.
There are steps on the outside of the pyramids by which they can ascend.
Having gratified his admiration, he went with his friend round the next
pyramid, examined several of the mausoleums, and returned to Cairo,
highly delighted with having seen a wonder they had long desired, but
never supposed they should have the pleasure of beholding.
A few days after this time, a party was formed to go to Sacara by
water. After visiting the pyramids at that place, they returned to
Cairo, except Mr. Turner, the English gentleman, and Belzoni, who went
on to Dajior, and examined the remains of many other pyramids there.
When they came back to the Nile, it was quite night, and they had to
pass several villages before they reached a place where they could
embark for Cairo. Their road lay through a cluster of palm-trees,
which, as the moon was just rising, had a solemn effect. Some of the
Arabs were dancing to the usual tunes of their tambourines, and,
forgetting their masters, the Turks, were happy for a time. At length,
Belzoni and his friend took a small boat, and arrived in Cairo before
morning. Two days after this time, the former was to be presented to
the Bashaw on the subject of his hydraulic project.
We should hope the Bashaw would be pleased with it, after Belzoni had
taken so much pains to promote the comfort of his people. But poor
Belzoni met with an unfortunate accident, which detained him for some
time. He received a violent blow on the leg, from a soldier who was
passing on horseback, and was obliged to be taken to the convent of
Terrasanta.
It must have been very desolate to be laid up at such a place; and
yet the convent was, perhaps, more comfortable than the old house at
Boolac. I think that cruel soldier had never heard the golden rule,
“Do as you would be done by,” for the common feelings of humanity were
strangers to his bosom. Belzoni, however was well enough in a few days
to be presented to the Bashaw.
OWEN.--I do not like to interrupt you, mamma; but is the Bashaw in the
place of a King? What sort of government is it in Egypt?
MRS. A.--The form of government in Egypt is called an aristocracy,
that is, a republican state, wherein the supreme power is consigned to
nobles and peers. Since Egypt has been under the dominion of the Turks,
it has been governed by a Bashaw, who resides at Cairo, and who has
under him inferior governors in several parts of the country.
The inhabitants of Egypt are composed of different races of people.
The Turks, who think themselves entitled to be masters of the country,
because the Arabs (who were another race) were conquered by them; then
there are the Copts, who are descended from the first Egyptians; as
well as many others, under different denominations.
And now, having wandered from our subject we will pursue it, and relate
some of Belzoni’s adventures.
Adventures are delightful things, provided an escape follows.
Belzoni made an arrangement with the Bashaw, and undertook to erect a
machine which would raise as much water with one ox as the machines of
the country with four.
There was reason to expect that Mahomed Ali might be of too indolent a
disposition to admire any thing new: he was a Turk you know, and the
Turks are famed for their indolence. A person of an enervated turn of
mind cannot derive so much pleasure from a new project as one of a more
active disposition. Ali, however, received our Belzoni very civilly,
and was much pleased with his proposition. And well he might be, when
he could foresee that, if put in execution, it would spare the expense
and labour of many thousands of oxen.
Belzoni now commenced his hydraulic machine. It was to be erected in
Soubra, at the garden of the Bashaw, on the Nile, three miles from
Cairo. He had many difficulties to encounter, Bernard; for the very
persons who were necessary to furnish him with wood, iron, carpentry,
and so on, unfortunately recollected that they should be the first
to suffer by it, if the machine succeeded. However success is secure
unless energy fails, and Belzoni in time saw his water machine
completed. But as he was some time at Soubra, perhaps you may like to
hear how he passed the intervals, when unoccupied by his work.
You see that a great deal depends upon the turn which is given to our
early pursuits. The science of hydraulics first became familiar to
Belzoni when he was a boy in Rome. I dare say he did not then think of
going to Egypt?
During his stay at Soubra, Belzoni became acquainted with many Turks,
and particularly with the governor of the palace, as his house was
within his walls. The garden of the Bashaw was under his care, and
a guard was kept at the gates. The seraglio is so situated that it
overlooks the Nile; at the back of it is a beautiful garden under the
care of the Greeks, and kept in excellent order. It is ornamented with
green bowers overhung with flowering shrubs, and alcoves in the form of
little cupolas, around which the fragrant plants twine their numerous
tendrils, whilst water machines constantly at work, kept up a perpetual
verdure. Belzoni’s were not actually the _first_ water machines in use
in Egypt, but much larger than any before known there, and the best
calculated to answer any important purpose. You, Emily, who are so fond
of flowers, will perhaps smile at the amusements which delight the
Bashaw far more highly than watching the progress of his shrubs and
plants. In the evening, when the sun is declining in the west, he quits
the seraglio, and seats himself on the banks of the Nile, with his
guards, to fire at an earthen pot on the opposite side.
[Illustration]
If Mahomed Ali be no botanist, he is an excellent marksman; for I
believe the river at Soubra is wider than the Thames at Westminster
Bridge.
When it is dark he retires into the garden, and reposes in a shady
alcove, or by the margin of some bubbling fountain, with all his
attendants around him, who endeavour to amuse him, and make him feel
in good humour with himself, whilst the murmuring of the waters, the
lively tunes of the musical instruments, and the soft beams of the moon
reflected upon the surface of the Nile, heightened the pleasure of the
scene. Here Belzoni was often admitted, and thus had an opportunity
of observing the domestic life of a man, who from nothing rose to be
viceroy of Egypt, and conqueror of the most powerful tribes of Arabia.
The Bashaw seemed to be well aware of the benefit that might be derived
from his encouraging the arts of Europe in his country, and had already
reaped some of the fruits of it. The manufacture of gunpowder, the
refining of sugar, the making of fine indigo, and the silk manufacture
were introduced much to his advantage; he is constantly inquiring after
something new, and is delighted with any novelty. He had heard of
electricity, and he sent to England for two electrical machines.
Do you remember, Bernard, the shock you all received from the one in
papa’s study, when you held a little chain, and Emily held your hand,
and Owen hers, and we all jumped together?
One of Mahomed Ali’s machines was broken by the way; the other was
dismounted. No one could be found who knew how to set it up. Belzoni
happened to be at the garden one night when they were attempting it,
and he was requested to put the pieces together; having done so,
he desired one of the soldiers to mount the insulating stool, when
charging the machine, he gave the Turk a good shock, who being thus
struck unawares, uttered a loud cry and jumped off extremely terrified.
The Bashaw laughed at the man for doing so, supposing his alarm was
a pretence and not the effect of the machine; and when told that it
was actually occasioned by the machine, he positively affirmed that
it could not be, for the soldier was at such a distance that it was
impossible the small chain he held in his hand could have such power.
Belzoni desired the interpreter to inform his Highness that if he would
have the goodness to mount the stool, he would be convinced of the
fact. He hesitated a moment whether to believe it or not; however he
mounted the stool. Belzoni charged well, put the little chain into his
hand, and gave him a smart shock. He jumped off, like the soldier, on
feeling the effect of the electricity, and threw himself on the sofa,
laughing immoderately and unable to conceive how the machine could have
such power on the human body.
[Illustration]
You may imagine how very droll Mahomed Ali must have looked when he was
standing upon that little stool, and especially when he found himself
forced to jump off!
The Arabs of Soubra display as much festivity when a marriage of
consequence takes place, as those of any of the villages in Egypt.
One happened while Belzoni was there, and as the windows of his house
overlooked the spot where it was performed, he had an opportunity of
witnessing the ceremony. Early in the morning of the grand holiday, a
high pole was reared in the centre of the place with a banner or flag
belonging to the village. A large assembly of people gathered under it,
and preparations were made for an illumination with glass lamps; music
was prepared, &c.
The Arabs from other villages came to the feast also, beating their
tambourines and waving their flags; but they remained at some distance
from the pole until invited to advance.
The old people seated themselves around and under the pole, and the
strangers were placed at a little distance. One of them began to
sing, while the rest divided themselves into two parties, forming two
circles, one within the other round the pole, and facing each other.
Each man put his arms over his neighbours’ shoulders, and thus formed
a chain. The outer circle stood still, while the people of the inner
circle kept dancing and bowing in an orderly manner to those on the
outer. Thus they continued three hours, and those who were not in the
circles made separate rings by themselves. This is the mode of dancing
among the Arabs.
All the women were at a distance by themselves, and among them was the
bride. When the dancing and singing ended, they all sat down, and a
great quantity of boiled rice was brought to them in wooden bowls, as
well as some dishes of melokie and bamies, which are plants eaten in
common by the Arabs as greens, and three or four sheep roasted, which
were soon torn to pieces and devoured. A number of boys were fully
employed during the whole ceremony in fetching water from the Nile. At
night the little coloured lamps were lighted, a band of tambourines
played continually, and the entertainment ended as it had commenced,
with a dance.
And now, let us turn to Belzoni. He completed his undertaking in
time. The machine was constructed on the principle of a crane with a
walking wheel, in which a single ox, by its own weight alone, could
effect as much as four oxen employed in the machines of the country.
Belzoni managed to prepare it in spite of the difficulties he had to
encounter with the self-interested workmen; he was of too enterprising
a disposition to give up a work which was the chief cause of his going
into that country.
BERNARD.--Before you go on, mamma, will you tell me what you mean by a
crane?--there is a picture of a crane in my Bewick--but I cannot at all
make out what is meant by a _crane with a walking wheel_.
MRS. A.--The crane of which I speak, Bernard, is not a _bird_--but
a machine used in building, for raising and lowering huge stones,
heavy weights, and sometimes water, you see. It is a technical term in
mechanics, and I will try by and bye to explain to you what is meant by
a crane with a walking wheel.
The Bashaw came to Soubra to examine the hydraulic machine. It was set
to work and succeeded admirably, drawing in the same space of time six
or seven times as much water as the common machines.
[Illustration]
Belzoni thought himself well repaid. And the Egyptian farmers might now
sow their seed without being afraid of a famine--even if the Nile did
not overflow, they could raise water, and water their fields so well.
Our best endeavours, however, though they sometimes appear at first
crowned with success, may afterwards defeat the purpose for which they
were intended. So it was with those of our ingenious friend. The Bashaw
took it into his head to have the oxen taken out of the wheel, in order
to see, by way of frolic, what effect the machine would have by putting
fifteen men into it. Poor James, the Irish lad you know, had entered
along with them, but no sooner had the wheel turned once round than
they all jumped out, leaving the boy alone in it. The wheel, of course,
overbalanced by the weight of the water, turned back with such velocity
that the catch was unable to stop it. James was thrown out, and in the
fall broke one of his thighs. Belzoni contrived to stop the wheel
before it did farther injury, which might have been fatal to him.
The Turks are so superstitious, that they considered such an accident
happening to a new invention as a bad omen--and thus Belzoni’s
ingenuity was thrown away. The Bashaw was persuaded to abandon the
affair, and the project of Belzoni being thus consigned to oblivion, he
turned his thoughts to the antiquities of the country, and, possessing
a spirit for investigation, determined to make some researches.
A gentleman of the name of Burckhardt, had for a long time premeditated
the removal of a colossal bust, known by the name of young Memnon, to
England, and had often tried to persuade Ali to send it as a present
to his Majesty; however, the Turk did not suppose it worth sending to
so great a person. But Belzoni, knowing how much that gentleman wished
it, proposed to undertake its conveyance from Thebes to Alexandria,
and, with the Bashaw’s consent, to forward it from thence to England.
He now, therefore, prepared to go up the Nile. He was then at Soubra,
three miles from Cairo. It was intended to present this immense statue
to the British Museum, and he was directed to search for it on the
southern side of a ruined temple, in the vicinity of a village called
Gournou, near Carnac. You can trace the course of the Nile from Cairo,
upon the map, until you find Carnac just by Thebes. Gournou is near it.
Belzoni was requested to spare neither expense nor trouble, in getting
it as speedily conveyed to the banks of the river as possible. So he
hired a boat, with four sailors, a boy, and a captain. Every thing
was soon ready for their departure from Soubra. The whole of the
implements, for the operation of removing the bust, consisted of a few
poles and ropes of palm-leaves. Mrs. Belzoni accompanied her husband,
and they agreed to stay and examine any ruins they might pass on the
road. James, the Irish boy was, happily, able to accompany them. And
now, you must follow their course on the map, from Boolac, where they
embarked, to Thebes. In six days they arrived at Siout, the capital of
Upper Egypt, and from thence they went to Acmin, where they landed to
visit the fathers of a convent: and again proceeded, with curiosity
highly raised, towards the noted temple of Tentyra. This is the first
Egyptian temple the traveller sees, on ascending the Nile, as well as
the most magnificent.
It is two miles from the Nile, and Belzoni and his party having landed,
set off on asses, and proceeded to the ruins. Little could be seen of
the temple, till they were near it, as it is surrounded by high mounds
of rubbish.
When he arrived there, he was for some time at a loss to know in
what part to begin his examinations. The numerous objects before
him struck him with surprise and astonishment--the immense masses
of stone employed in the edifice--the majestic appearance of its
construction--the variety of its ornaments, and the excellent
preservation in which he found it, had such an effect on Belzoni, that
he seated himself on the ground, lost in delight and admiration.
This temple is the cabinet of the Egyptian arts,--and it is supposed
to have been built during the reign of the first Ptolemy. It is not
improbable that he who studied to render himself beloved by his
people, might erect such an edifice to convince the Egyptians of his
superiority of mind over the ancient kings of Egypt, even in religious
devotion.
It will take us too long to describe this famous temple minutely. When
Mr. and Mrs. Belzoni had gratified their curiosity, they returned to
their little boat, and embarked for Thebes. They will soon have reached
the end of their voyage, and then for the great colossal bust.
Belzoni says, that it is impossible to imagine the scene displayed by
the extensive ruins at Thebes. It appeared to him, on entering it, like
a city of giants, who were all destroyed, leaving only the remains of
various temples, as proofs of their former existence. The attention is
attracted on one side, by towering ruins, that project above a noble
wood of palm-trees, and there the traveller enters an endless number of
temples, columns, obelisks, and portals. On every side he finds himself
among wonders. The immense colossal figures in the plains, the number
of tombs hollowed in the rocks, those in the great valley of the kings,
with their paintings, sculptures, mummies, and figures, are all objects
worthy of admiration, and one cannot fail to wonder how a nation,
which was once so great as to erect these stupendous edifices, could so
far fall into oblivion, that even its language and writing are totally
unknown to us.
Having taken a survey of this seat of ancient grandeur, Belzoni crossed
the Nile, and bent his way towards the ruined temple, near Gournou.
It stands elevated above the plain; he entered the groups of columns,
regarding the numerous tombs excavated in the high rock behind them,
and his first thought was to examine the bust he had to take away.
He found it on the southern side of the temple, near the remains of its
body and chair with the face upwards. It was beautiful, and of immense
size. Laura, who has seen it in the British Museum, will be able to
give you a more accurate account of it.
BERNARD.--I cannot imagine, mamma, how Belzoni could attempt to remove
it; you know he had only some poles, and some ropes of palm-leaves--and
palm-ropes, made ever so strong, would not be able to support such
a weight. I think he had better have contrived a car, somewhat like
that the African sheep has to rest its tail upon, in “Church’s
cabinet,”--and by this means he might have brought it to the Nile, and
then had it placed in a boat, and conveyed to Cairo.
MRS. A.--No bad scheme, my little boy! Belzoni’s whole set of
implements consisted of fourteen poles, eight of which he did employ
in making a car, similar to what you have proposed; four ropes of
palm-leaves, and four rollers--they were better than wheels; and he now
began to be very busy.
As the bust was some way from the Nile, it would have been too far
for them to go to sleep in the boat every night; so a small hut was
formed for them with stones, among the ruins of the temple. They were
not very handsomely lodged, but perhaps they found this little hut as
comfortable as the shabby old house at Boolac, which they were always
expecting to fall upon their heads, and both our travellers were used
to put up with inconvenient things.
The season at which time the Nile usually overflows was fast
approaching, and all of the lands which extend from the temple to the
water side, would have been covered in the course of a month--The
ground between the bust and the river was very uneven, so that unless
it had been conveyed over those places before the inundation commenced,
it would have been impossible to have affected it. Belzoni, therefore,
lost no time. With some difficulty he procured a number of men, and
agreed to give them thirty paras a day, which is equal to fourpence
halfpenny English money, if they would undertake to assist him. A
carpenter made a car, somewhat like that which supports the tail of
your African sheep, Bernard, only very large, and the first operation
was to place the bust upon this simple carriage. The people of Gournou,
who were familiar with Caphany, as they named it, were persuaded that
it could never be removed from the spot where it lay and when they
saw, what to them appeared so impossible, they set up a shout, and
could not believe that it was the effect of their own efforts. The next
thing was to place it on the car. Can you guess how Belzoni managed
this business?
BERNARD.--I fancy, that he bound the palm-leaf ropes round and round
Caphany very fast, and very firmly, and then the men tried and tried,
until they had lifted him up, and placed him upon it.
MRS. A.--Ah, my little friend! you do not evince much knowledge of
mechanical powers, or you could not suppose that this image would be
moved by mere personal strength. Now, Owen, what is your opinion?
OWEN.--I should think, that by means of levers, the bust might be
raised so as to leave a vacancy under it, and then the car might be
introduced by some of the people, who were standing ready. After
Caphany had been lodged on this, the car itself might be raised so
as to get one of the rollers beneath, and if the same operation were
performed at the back, he would be ready to be pulled up:--and then, if
you please, Bernard, your palm-leaf ropes may come in use, to tie him
to the carriage, and draw him along.
MRS. A.--This is the very method Belzoni pursued, and when he had
succeeded in getting it removed some yards from its original place,
he sent an Arab to Cairo, with the intelligence that the bust had
begun its journey to England. Our ingenious friend reminds me of a
remark made by a celebrated writer, “that it is by small efforts
frequently repeated, that man completes his greatest undertaking, to
have attempted which, at _one_ effort would have baffled his ability,”
for he had still many difficulties to encounter. When the Arabs found
that they received money for the removal of a stone, they fancied that
it was filled with gold in the inside, and that a thing of such value
ought not to be permitted to be taken away.
However, the next day, and the next, and the next, Caphany advanced
slowly forwards, and after many delays, owing to the softness of the
sand, and to the desertion of some of the workmen, the fear of an
inundation, &c. Belzoni had the gratification of seeing his young
Memnon arrive on the banks of the Nile.
[Illustration]
Thus, you see perseverance is generally crowned with success. But it
yet remained to put the colossus in a boat; it had a long, long way to
go down the Nile before it could arrive at Cairo, and Belzoni intended
to stop there to show it to Mahomed Ali.
But no boat is to be had. We must therefore leave the bust for the
present, and accompany him, if you please, into one of the caves that
are scattered about the mountains of Gournou, and are so celebrated
for the quantities of mummies they contain: he wished to see a famous
sarcophagus which was in one of them, and thither he went. You know
that mummies are the bodies of dead persons, which have been wrapped
up, in a great many bandages to preserve them, and a sarcophagus is a
sort of tomb or coffin.[1]
Two Arabs and an interpreter accompanied Belzoni. Previous to entering
the cave, they took off the greater part of their clothes, and each
having a candle, advanced through a cavity in the rock, which extended
a considerable length in the mountain, sometimes high, sometimes very
narrow, and sometimes so low that Belzoni and his attendants were
obliged to creep on their hands and knees. Thus they went on till he
perceived that they were at a great distance from the entrance, and
the way was so intricate that he depended entirely on the two Arabs to
conduct him out again. His situation now was not to be envied--you know
Arabs are sometimes treacherous.
[Illustration]
At length they arrived at a large place into which many other holes
or cavities opened, and after some examination by the Arabs, they
entered one of them which was very narrow, and continued downward for
a long way, through a craggy passage, till they came where two other
apertures led to the interior in a horizontal direction. One of the
Arabs then said “This is the place.”
This might well have startled Belzoni, for he was far from the light
of day--in a dark craggy passage in the midst of a dismal mummy cave,
and attended only by two Arabs and one other man!--However, the Arab
only intended to point out this spot as being the situation of the
sarcophagus, but Belzoni could not conceive how any thing so large as
it had been described to him could have been taken through so small an
aperture. He had no doubt but these recesses were burial places, as
skulls and bones were strewed in all directions; but the sarcophagus
could never have entered an aperture which even Belzoni himself could
not penetrate. One of the Arabs, however, succeeded, as did the
interpreter, and it was agreed that Belzoni and the other Arab should
wait their return. They certainly proceeded to a great distance, for
the light disappeared and only a murmuring sound from their voices
could be distinguished as they went on. After a few moments a loud
noise was heard, and the interpreter distinctly crying, “_O mon Dieu!
mon Dieu! Je suis perdu!_”--a solemn silence ensued.
Belzoni asked the Arab whether he had ever been in that place. He
replied “_Never._”
He judged it to be his best plan to return and procure help from the
other Arabs. He wished to do so, but when he desired the man to show
him the way out again, he said he did not know the road--he then
called--no answer was returned--all was still as death--he watched for
a long time--no candle appeared, and his own was almost burnt out.
This was an adventure indeed, he began to think the Arabs had
some design on his life and he endeavoured to find his way to the
entrance?--It was a complete labyrinth; however, he managed to return
through some of the passages to that place, where, as I told you just
now, there were many cavities. Here, again he was puzzled; but at last,
seeing one which appeared to be right, they proceeded through it a long
way. Their candles appeared likely to leave them in the dark, and in
that case their situation would have been yet more deplorable. He did
not like to put out one of the candles to save it, for fear the other
might be extinguished by some accident.
At this time, supposing themselves near the outside of the tomb, what
was their disappointment on finding there was no outlet, and that
they must retrace their steps to that place whence they had entered
this cavity. They strove to regain it, but were as perplexed as ever,
and were both exhausted from the ascents and descents which they were
obliged to pass. The Arab seated himself, but every moment of delay was
dangerous.
In going in Belzoni had thought to preserve a clue to the passage by
putting a mark at the entrance of each cavity as he examined it, but
unfortunately their candles were not long enough to last so many
researches. However, hope, the cheering star of life, darts a ray of
light through the thickest gloom, and, encouraged by it, they began
their operations. On the second, attempt, when passing before a small,
aperture, Belzoni fancied he heard something like the roaring of the
sea at a distance. In consequence they entered this opening, and as
they advanced the noise increased, till they could distinctly hear a
number of voices all at one time.
BERNARD.--What joy this must have given them!--as much joy as it gave
Owen to hear papa’s voice in the wood, when he was lost whilst we were
gathering nuts last summer--perhaps more; for I am sure I would rather
be lost in a nice green wood than in an Egyptian mummy cave! Go on dear
mamma.
MRS. A.--At last they walked out, and to their no small surprise, the
first person who presented himself was the interpreter. How he came
to be there seemed astonishing. He told them, that in proceeding with
the Arab along the passage below, they came to a pit which they did
not see, and that the Arab fell into it, and in falling put out both
candles. It was then that he cried out, “_Mon Dieu! je suis perdu!_” as
he thought he also should have fallen into the pit; but, on raising his
head, he saw at a great distance a glimpse of daylight, towards which
he advanced, and thus arrived at a small aperture. He then scraped away
some loose sand and stones, to widen the place where he came out, and
went to give the alarm to the Arabs, who were at the other entrance.
Being all concerned for the man who fell to the bottom of the pit, it
was their noise Belzoni had heard in the cave. The place by which the
interpreter had escaped was instantly widened, and in the confusion
the Arabs did not regard letting Belzoni see that they were acquainted
with _that_ entrance, and that it had lately been shut up. He was not
long in detecting their scheme. They had intended to show him the
sarcophagus without letting him see the way by which it might be taken
out, and then to stipulate a price for the secret; as it was in reality
but one hundred yards from the great entrance.
With this view they had taken him that roundabout way. They paid dear
for their intended deception. The man was taken out of the well, but
so much hurt as to be lame ever after. Thus the Arabs defeated their
own purpose, and proved that self-interest indeed is blind. When men
stoop to the meanness of equivocation or deceit, especially in hopes
of promoting their own good, they are artful but not wise; for, as we
can only judge of the circumstances of the present moment, and cannot
foresee consequences, it is very likely, as it proved with the Arabs,
that our cunning will bring us into still greater difficulties. It is
also certain to deprive us of confidence in the protecting care of
providence, which, as I have often told you, is the greatest support
and comfort in every trouble.
Well, Bernard, do you regret Laura’s having taken a sketch in Egypt
instead of having drawn the spokes of the wheels of your little cart?
BERNARD.--Oh, no, mamma--never mind the spokes! I like your account
very much. But where is Caphany all this time, with his palm-leaf-ropes?
MRS. A.--Two guards were attending him by night and by day. Belzoni at
length sent to Cairo for a boat, but as he knew it could not arrive for
some time, he formed an enclosure of earth all around the bust, and
spent the mean time in visiting various antiquities. His courage was
not daunted by the peril he had passed through; many people would not
have ventured into mummy caves at all events, again. But he preserved
his mind from fear by not indulging it.
OWEN.--Right! right! I like Belzoni, because he possessed real
courage--did he not, mamma?--real fortitude! although he was a little
terrified when alone with the Arab, in that dismal place, yet he did
not let that fear prevent his undertaking other projects. When I
am a man, mother, I mean to be a traveller, and to possess as much
perseverance as _our Belzoni_!
MRS. A.--Experience will teach you, my love, that it is not a very easy
thing for one unaccustomed to an arduous life, to pass on a sudden from
the midst of comfort and indulgence to one that is so irregular.
Belzoni determined to go up the Nile into Nubia, and to leave the bust
where it was during his absence. He sent James to Cairo, and discharged
the carpenter, so that a small party only remained, and they set off
from Esne, which is only a few miles from Thebes. There they landed
just in time to see Khalil Bey, with whom they had become acquainted
some time before in Soubra; and who was appointed to the government of
the Upper Provinces from Esne to Assouan.
He was just returned from an excursion into the country, was much
pleased to see Belzoni, and received him very politely. Our traveller
found him with his pipe and coffee, seated on a sofa made of earth, and
covered with a fine carpet and satin cushions, surrounded by a great
number of his chiefs, Cacheffs and Santons. Khalil Bey was an Albanian,
but his mode of life was similar to that of the Egyptians in general,
which I will describe to you in another chapter.
[Illustration]
FOOTNOTE:
[1] At Peale’s New York Museum there is a mummy which was taken with
the double coffin from one of the tombs discovered by Belzoni at
Thebes. Part of the bandages having been removed, one side of the head
and the shoulder of the body are exposed to view. It is thought to be
now more than 2000 years old and believed to have been a person of
great distinction, from the careful and expensive manner in which it
is preserved. It is wrapped in sixty-three thicknesses of linen and
inclosed in two coffins of sycamore wood ornamented with carving and
hieroglyphics.