District, or the Cuchullins in Skye. There is no Pillar Rock, no Old Man
of Dearg. But there are ample opportunities for acquiring the art of
mountain craft, the instinct which enables the pedestrian to guide
himself alone from crest to crest, from ridge to ridge, with the least
labour. He will learn how to plan out his course from the base of cliff
or gully, marking each foot and hand grip with calm attention; and,
knowing when to cease to attempt impossibilities, he will learn to trust
in himself and acquire that most necessary of all climbers' acquirements
a philosophic, contemplative calm in the presence of danger or difficult
dilemmas. If the beginner is desirous of rock practice, or the practised
hand requires to test his condition, or improve his form, there is many
a rocky coast where the muscles and nerves and stamina can be trained to
perfection. Kerry and Donegal are competent to form a skilled
mountaineer out of any capable aspirant. Ice and snow craft is an
accomplishment which must of course be acquired elsewhere.
Much of the best scenery in Ireland is available only to the
mountaineer. Macgillicuddy's Reeks can hardly be appreciated in less
than a week's exploration. Even after three weeks spent amongst them we
have wished for more. Donegal alone requires lengthened attention, and
there a much longer period will be profitably spent.
The climbing described in the following pages was chiefly undertaken
with the object, or excuse, of botanical discovery. All the mountain
experiences, except where the contrary is stated, represent the
personal--usually the solitary--experiences of the writer. Of roped
climbing the author has had no experience outside the Alps. Being tied
up in a package and lowered from a cliff to a bird's nest, though not
climbing, is, no doubt, a feat requiring nerve and dexterity; but when
the nest of the raven, peregrine, or chough is in view, and ropes and
companions are 'out of all ho,' and it appears improbable such a chance
will come again, the eager naturalist will indeed rejoice that his nerve
and dexterity are not wholly dependent on the comfortable security of a
friendly cable round his waist. To the botanist such accomplishments are
even more essential. A knowledge of rocks--what to trust, what to
mistrust, what to attack vertically (such as granite and quartzose
usually), what to deal with by their ledges (such as limestone often and
sandstone still oftener), what to avoid altogether (such as trap, chalk,
and decomposing basalt), a knowledge of the elementary principles of
guidance under varying conditions of weather--can be gleaned from the
mountain and sea coast cliffs in Ireland, not, perhaps, to such an
extent as to produce an expert, but quite enough to lay the requisite
groundwork of one. Form and condition, nerve and activity, will develop
in company, and with them the love for the art will grow, and nothing
beyond a little local education will be wanting to enable him to follow
upon their arduous undertakings real proficients in mountain craft. Any
words that can induce the skilled mountaineers of England and Scotland
to test the merits of an Irish welcome, of Irish scenery, and of the
bracing combination of Atlantic and mountain air in the western counties
will have been written to good purpose.
* * * * *
=Antrim.=--The highest hills are Trostan (1,810 ft.) and Slieveanea
(1,782 ft.) The formation is almost entirely trap or basalt, and there
is no cliff-climbing, the rock being crumbly and unsafe. Around the
coast there is a belt of cretaceous rocks, forming in some places, as at
the Giant's Causeway (White Rocks) and at Fair Head, bold cliffs of
chalk or rotten trap. On Fair Head, 640 ft. high, there is a magnificent
view. Cyclopean columns of greenstone crown a talus always heavy on the
Antrim cliffs, owing to their friable nature.
There is a fissure known as the Grey Man's Path on the west side of this
Head, in the face of the cliff, by which it is possible to descend and
inspect the foot of the columnar prisms.
[Illustration: THE TARTAR ROCK
(on Fair Head)]
The Antrim glens and the Antrim coast road are deservedly famous for
their lovely scenery, and excellent accommodation is everywhere
obtainable. Of the glens _Glenariff_ is, perhaps, the gem. It is hemmed
in by cliffs 1,000 ft. high, with mural summits. Glenarm is equally
beautiful, though in a more tranquil and gentle way. On the north and
south sides of the Bay there are considerable precipices.
From Fair Head the prospect is singularly fine. The Head is columnar
basalt.
Fair Head is approached from Ballycastle on the west. West of
Ballycastle again, about the same distance, is the well-known rocky
islet of Carrig-a-Rede, which is severed from the mainland by a chasm
nearly a hundred feet deep, spanned by a very slight swinging or flying
bridge, which in a storm is not inviting.
On this basaltic islet an interesting climb round the cliffs may be had,
and the rock is secure enough on the west and north sides.
From Ballintoy, which is close to Carrig-a-Rede, it is a magnificent
cliff walk to the Causeway; and from the Causeway to Portrush the rocky
coast scenery is full of interest. Many places will invite a scramble.
Below the road, which is adorned with an electric railway, numerous
difficult places occur, and several little valleys permit a descent to
the sea and a swim. A few miles west of the Causeway the coast becomes
low to Portrush, the golfing centre, with its excellent hotel.
At Portrush, or near it, at White Park Bay, the white cretaceous rocks
are capped by frowning basalt, and the contrast of colours is most
striking. It is not necessary to describe the well-known _Giant's
Causeway_. _Pleaskin Head_ is the finest feature in its cliff scenery,
but unfit for climbing, owing to the crumbling, weathering nature of its
beds of lava and iron ore. More fine sea cliffs are found in the
Gobbins, on Island Magee.
Antrim, with all its lovely cliff and glen scenery, and all its good
hotels, is not a mountaineer's county, like Kerry, Donegal, or Wicklow.
It is more highly cultivated and more civilised than a climber with a
proper sense of his calling could possibly approve of. It suggests
driving, bicycling, picnics, good dinners, and evening dress more than
knickers and hard work.
We will turn our attention, therefore, to _the_ mountain county of
Ireland.
* * * * *
=Donegal= has some of the highest and finest mountains in Ireland, and
the extent of mountainous country is larger than in any other part of
Ireland. No maritime mountain and cliff combined can approach Slieve
League, in Donegal, and if the coast cliffs of Mayo have a continuous
grandeur that excels any similar stretch in Donegal, there are many
higher and finer cliffs on the Donegal coast, in endless succession and
variety from Inishowen Head, on Lough Swilly, to the south-west coast.
The Donegal mountains form four groups--(1) _Inishowen Mountains_; (2)
_Donegal Highlands_; (3) _South-West Donegal_; (4) _South Donegal_.
_Inishowen Group._--_Slieve Snacht_, the highest point, has no
interest, except its view, and the same remark applies to _Rachtin
More_, the next highest. Both are composed of barren quartzite. _Bulbin_
has a schistose escarpment looking north-west, of some 300 ft., reaching
almost to the summit, and terminating in a short talus and a
heather-clad slope. It is a very picturesque little mountain, and
possesses some interesting plants.
Inishowen is deficient in accommodation. North of Buncrana there are but
one or two inns that will tempt a visitor to return. Accommodation can
be obtained at Carndonagh and Culdaff, and at Malin Head there is a
house that receives visitors by arrangement.
Malin Head is the proper place from whence to explore the cliffs of
Inishowen, and Glennagiveny, under Inishowen Head, to its north,
contains lodging-houses also.
The coast line of Inishowen is in many parts wild and magnificent.
Inishowen Head affords excellent climbing. The cliffs are from 300 to
400 ft. in height, and various traverses, ascents, and descents can be
made between Stroove and Glennagiveny. The Head is in reach of Moville,
where there is a good inn.
Further to the north-west the cliffs increase in height. From Glengad
Head, a little north-west of Culdaff, to Stookaruddan a series of
precipitous headlands (500 to 800 ft.) faces the ocean, looking a little
east of north. The walk along this coast from Culdaff to Malin Head,
although laborious, on account of the steep-sided inlets, is well worth
the trouble. The rugged boldness of Malin Head is most fascinating, and
in a storm it is superbly grand. At this point the cliffs have fallen
to a low elevation. The finest bit is at a place about half-way between
Glengad and Stookaruddan.
Having put up for the night at Malin Head, if possible, if not at Malin
or Carndonagh (the latter for choice), Dunaff Head, guarding the eastern
entrance to Lough Swilly, should be visited. Lough Swilly is the finest
oceanic inlet round the whole coast of Ireland. The eastern cape, about
700 ft. high, terminates in a range of bold precipices over 600 ft. high
for some distance. It is a most enchanting bit of sea cliff. In variety
of shape, sheerness of descent, and picturesque grouping and
surroundings it is hard to match.
The cliffs can be descended at the nose of Dunaff to an outer rocky
continuation, provided there is no storm. In stormy weather this rock,
of perhaps a hundred feet, is completely swept by surf. There is a steep
gully in another place on the south side, which admits of a descent to
the water's edge. For most of their length, however, these cliffs are
quite impracticable. For some distance downwards all seems to go well,
but the pelting of detritus from above and Atlantic surf from below
render the lower parts as smooth as marble and straight as a wall into
the water. Here and there the inner bluffs are more practicable, and
from a boat, in very calm weather, a study of the cliffs would probably
reveal more than the scrutiny from above, which is usually alone
possible.
South of Dunaff Head, up Lough Swilly, the precipitous coast of the
Erris Mountains gives a most enjoyable stretch of rough work. It is
often possible to descend to the sea, and having done so a difficult
climb is often preferable to a tiresome ascent to the headland
surmounting one of the numerous creeks.
Across the Lough we find ourselves in the lovely peninsula of Fanet, the
coast of which is admirably adapted for rock practice. The highest sea
cliff is the Bin, a conspicuous headland 350 ft. high and very
precipitous. It can, however, be scaled without much difficulty in one
place, a few feet from the summit towards the south. Other parts of it
appear practicable, and at low tide the base can be completely
compassed--a wild bit of work if there is a sea on. There is an
admirable hotel at Portsalon, with a famous golf links, about half-way
between this cliff and Knockalla Mountains. The whole coast from
Portsalon to the Bin is studded with cliffs, caves, and remarkably
beautiful natural arches.
The rock of Fanet is almost entirely quartzite, a metamorphosed
sandstone, often pure and glittering quartz. It is firm and safe, but
the absence of stratification renders it difficult to negotiate. This
barren rock (it disintegrates to silex) is very common in Donegal, and
is identical with that of the Twelve Benns, in Connemara.
Before leaving Lough Swilly the remarkable view from Dunaff Head should
be referred to. On a clear day the Paps of Jura, the Mull of Cantire,
and even the Isles of Arran and Islay, can be seen in Scotland over the
low Malin Head. Westwards, in a noble succession, lies the grand series
of the outer Donegal capes. Fanet Head, Melmore Head, Breaghy Head, Horn
Head, Tory Island, and the Bloody Foreland are all in view, and
south-westwards the 'Donegal Highlands' look so imposing that an
immediate expedition to them will probably be decided upon.
Across the peninsula which lies between Mulroy Water and Lough Swilly
there is a most comfortable inn at the Rosapenna Golf Links. It is an
extremely pretty wooden structure, brought by the philanthropic Lord
Leitrim, whose loss the district will never cease to deplore, from
Norway, and the complete success of it makes one wonder that this sort
of structure is not more often adopted. From Rosapenna expeditions can
be made to cliffs and coast in all directions.
_Horn Head_ is a grand range of sea cliffs, ten or twelve miles in
extent, which are the largest breeding-place in Ireland for sea fowl.
There are a few places where a descent is possible, and a careful
exploration (with the proprietor's permission) will be certain to yield
excellent climbing. The rock is as firm as iron in most places. Most of
the climbing the writer has done on these cliffs has been from a boat
upwards in search of sea fowls' eggs. One especially remembered one,
after green cormorants' nests, at the entrance to that most noble cave
the Gap of Doonmore, was of great difficulty. The absolutely reliable
rock had very slight 1-1-1/2-in. ledges, and the latter part of the climb was
slightly overhanging. The nests were reached, however.
All round this Head excellent rock-climbing, coupled with magnificent
scenery, is available. At the base of the cliffs, not far from the
proprietor's dwelling-place, there is a little bay with a cave above the
reach of the tide. Here a man once saved his life by climbing. My
friend, Mr. Charles Stewart, the proprietor of the Horn Head estates,
writes:--
'I think it was the year 1876 that my man John Stewart was over three
weeks in the cave watching my salmon, without the boat being able to go
to him. The cliffs above were 600 ft. high. He could easily climb up
about 100 ft., most of it cliff-climbing with a little grass. After that
there is a very difficult piece of cliff, almost perpendicular, of about
40 ft. It is easy enough to get down to this point from the top. A man
went down and lowered a rope to him, but he could not come up straight,
as the cliff overhung too much. He tied the rope round him and climbed
up in a zigzag way. He was half an hour climbing this short piece, and
was very exhausted, with his hands badly cut and bleeding. He had with
him his son, a boy of about twelve years old. He had rope about 10 ft.
long from his waist to the boy, who slipped twice on the way up, each
time very nearly taking his father with him. About five years afterwards
the boy was looking for eggs in the cliffs, and fell about 500 ft. to a
shingly beach, rolling the first part of the way down a steep grassy
bank for about 100 ft., and then a sheer drop of 150 ft. to another
grassy bank where a small holly bush grows. When picked up (of course
quite dead) he had a holly branch in his hand.'
There is a comfortable hotel at Dunfanaghy, immediately inland of Horn
Head.
From Dunfanaghy Tory Island can be visited in calm weather--an
interesting boating trip. It is fifteen or twenty miles to the north of
west, and Horn Head has to be passed on the way, giving an opportunity
of surveying its cliffs. There is a cliff or buttress (called, I
believe, Tormore) which the islanders point out, that is somewhat
difficult to climb upon. Once on the summit the successful cragsman can
have any wish he may pine for. The highest point of the island is under
300 ft. The inhabitants disregard the payment of all rents, taxes, &c.
The turreted and bold contour of Tory renders it a great embellishment
to the north-west coast. It is visible from all elevations for a
considerable distance. Seen in a sunset its richly reddish-coloured
granites light up with a warm and lovely glow. It formerly possessed
monastic or other religious institutions, and several ruins of small
churches or oratories are still visible. It abounds with legends--a home
of superstition and folk-lore.
From the neighbourhood of Dunfanaghy the most attractive objects upon
the horizon are the mountains of the Donegal Highlands, _Muckish_ and
_Errigal_ being especially conspicuous.
_Muckish_ ('Pig's Back,' 2,200 ft.) is about 7 miles from Dunfanaghy. It
is flat-topped, with short rotten cliffs on the north and west sides.
_Errigal_ (an oratory or small church) is more interesting. The summit
is pointed, bifid, and hardly large enough for more than two persons. It
is composed chiefly of disintegrating quartzite, flanked on the west by
igneous rocks. Between Errigal and Muckish (about 6 miles) lie the
pointed summits of _Aghla Beg_ (1,860 ft.) and _Aghla More_ (1,916 ft.)
The largest of many lakes is Alton Lough, where the writer was once
solemnly cautioned against swimming, on account of the 'Phouea,' which
lived there and used to mingle with the cattle as a cow and lure one
down into the depths. So would he do with mankind. Numerous swims in
that lake have weakened this prognostication.
Above Alton Lough, on its south-west side, are the cliffs of _Beaghy_
(1,200 ft.), which afford a nice bit of climbing. All these hills can be
gone over in a day, though some (especially Errigal) will ask a second
visit. About 4 miles from the base of Errigal is the excellent fishing
inn at Gweedore. From Dunfanaghy over the summit of Muckish, Aghla,
Beaghy, and Errigal down to Gweedore is a bit of mountaineering which
can be most thoroughly recommended. Gweedore should be made a
head-quarters for a few days; and the comfort obtained at the close of
the day will be well earned and appreciated.
The Poisoned Glen, six miles from Gweedore, is a stern and barren scene
of almost sheer, polished granite cliffs, nearly 1,000 feet above the
base of the glen. The south-west corner of the glen is the most
precipitous. Several deep, black, narrow gorges cut deeply into the
granite. Some, particularly one at the corner of a commanding buttress
on the south side, about half-way up the glen, are of considerable
difficulty. Wedged boulders occur frequently. The worst bit is the final
struggle to the crest of the ridge, which slopes south-westward to the
summit of Slieve Snacht. It will be found necessary in one place to
break out of this gully on to the face, and it should only be attempted
in dry weather. A full day may be spent going up one gully and down
another on the south-west side of the glen. Often the descent is far
easier, a jump of 12 or 15 ft. down to the shingly soft bed of the
gully clearing an obstacle difficult to breast upwards.
The most glaciated spots in Donegal are this glen and _Slieve Snacht_, a
rounded hump of granite.
By proceeding to the head of the Poisoned Glen, past the Gweedore Lakes,
and past the prettily wooded Dunlewy Lake which lies abreast of the
Glen, up the winding stream in its base, and taking the ravine in its
apex, we reach a pass known as Ballaghgeeha Gap ('Windy Pass'). From
this point it is a short walk across a valley to a road, visible from
the pass, which follows the Gweebarra valley south-west down to
Doochary. Taking it in the opposite direction, it leads into Glenbeagh,
a gorge about eight miles long, with a lake enclosed by steep cliffs on
its west shore. On its right a beautifully wooded mountain slope
contains the seat of the proprietor, Glenbeagh Castle. This valley is
crossed at its mouth by the main road to Gweedore, some 10 miles away,
and the circuit described is one of the most beautiful mountain walks
imaginable. In order to vary this, and save the road work home, a
scramble along the west shore of the lake may be effected to the granite
cliffs opposite Glenbeagh Castle, known as Keamnacally. In several
places an ascent can be effected of about 1,000 ft. The crest of the
cliff leads up by a gradual slope to the summit of Dooish, 2,147 ft.
This point is in a straight line for Gweedore from Glenbeagh, and if the
mountaineer wants more work the summit of Errigal lies in the same
bee-line.
_Lough Salt_ (1,546 ft.), a conspicuous hill, was ascended and described
by Otway about seventy years ago, in the language of that period
(_Scenes and Sketches in Ireland_). He adds some quaint legends about
two of the lakes. Into one of these St. Patrick banished the last Irish
snake, a rebellious animal that gave him much anxiety.
_Gweedore to Carrick._--The pedestrian had better omit the north coast,
and proceed westwards round the coast to _Dungloe_.
Aranmore Island, with its handsome red granites, shows some fine cliffs,
especially those at its north-west end, between Torneady and the
lighthouse. In the bay formed by these cliffs a grand tooth or monolith
stands isolated and vertical, about 100 ft. in height. The cliffs are
from 400 to nearly 600 ft., and some rise perpendicularly from the
water.
The best point to visit Aran from is Burton Port, about 3 miles off.
Skilled boatmen are required, as the passage is winding, amongst islets,
rocks, rapid tide currents, and shallows. Aranmore, like many other
Atlantic islands, slopes inland or eastward, and faces the Atlantic with
a wall of cliffs. The coast north of it is wild and beautiful, with
interesting physical features. Across Umfin Island runs a gruesome
cleft, through which a heavy sea tears its way in fury, meeting the sea
from the other end in frantic commotion. Further east, on Horn Head, is
the famous MacSwyne's Gun, for many years a signal to the whole county
that a furious sea was raging at the Horn. It is a 'puffing hole' on a
large scale, but the little rift, ever widening, has slowly silenced
all, or nearly so. On this Head also is the famous _Marble Arch_, Tempul
Breagha, jutting out into the sea.
At Dungloe good quarters and excellent fishing, as usual, are
obtainable.
From Dungloe the road lies through Doochary, Glenties, and Ardara to
Carrick. Each of these last villages has a good inn. The best plan is to
break the journey at Ardara, and take the magnificent coast walk or
climb into Carrick, a good day's work. As far as Maghera the way is
plain along a low sandy coast. West of this lies Maum Glen, whose cliffs
are precipitous enough, and if the glen be crossed a mile inland it is a
steep descent and ascent, though devoid of difficulty. Following the
coast, there is a track near the water's margin for some distance. Soon
the precipices forming the north face of Slieve-a-Tooey are reached. If
the tide is low the base can be followed a long way with one or two ugly
corners. The cliffs are up to 1,000 ft. (Slieve-a-Tooey 1,692), but can
be ascended in various places, and the land lowers again at Port. All
along the scenery is of the most impressive character. Outside Port lies
Tormore Island, one of a group of boulders, a rock which, though hardly
half a mile round its base, is a tremendous sea fowl breeding-place,
second only to Horn Head. At low water Tormore can be reached from the
shore, and it is scaled in many places by lads in search of eggs. One
native was on the Great Tor when a storm arose, and cut him off from the
shore and from all help. After a week he died of starvation and
exposure. It is, perhaps, about 500 to 600 ft. high. Pursuing our way
along the ever-varying cliffs, most interesting in a storm, the curious
promontory called Sturrell is reached in about 4 miles. The knife-edged
saddle is very rotten, but leads to a firm block of rock nearly 1,000
ft. above the sea. So defiant is the challenge of this rock that no
cragsman can pass it by. The passage is not pleasant, yet even on a
second visit the writer was powerless to resist temptation. The
tottering wall of rotten rock gives the impression that the whole
connection may slither down. Considering what desperate Atlantic storms
this crumbling cliff withstands annually, such fears must be
exaggerated. Nevertheless it would be improper to recommend this climb.
It is dangerous as well as difficult, very exciting, and exceedingly
delightful--after it is over.
The rock along this northern side of the mountainous promontory of
Banagh is chiefly quartzite, but in some places, as Sturrell, a rotten
schist.
About a mile south of Sturrell another and a grander headland is
reached, that of Glen Head. It is 600 ft. of cliff, and deservedly
famous. It is easily visited from Carrick Hotel, about 7 miles off. On
much of the southern side a descent is practicable.
From Glen Head to the road to Carrick is a short walk. At this hotel we
are at the inland base of a renowned sea precipice.