DOWN THE GREAT RIVER.
Voyage from Source to Sea.--Three thousand miles in an open
canoe.--"Pioneers of the Mississippi."--A thrilling lecture.--The
long voyage begun.--Mosquitoes.--Hunger and exhaustion.--The
Captain kills an otter.--Lakes Bemidji and Winnibegoshish.--An
Indian missionary.--Wind-bound.--Chenowagesic bids farewell to
the Captain.--Pokegama Falls.--Grand Rapids.--Meeting the first
steamboat.--Aitkin.--Great enthusiasm.--The new canoes.--Leaving
Aitkin.--Arrival at Little Falls.--Escorted in triumph to the
town.--"Captain Glazier! A speech! A speech!"--Lake Pepin.--An
appalling storm.--St. Louis.--Southern hospitality.--New
Orleans.--Arrival at the Gulf of Mexico.--End of voyage.
Having decided to his entire satisfaction that the newly located lake
was the true source of the Great River, Captain Glazier was ready to
begin his descent of the stream, for, as yet, but a small portion of his
great undertaking had been accomplished. True, he had done what had
never been done before--he had penetrated into the innermost recesses of
the mystery which had so long enshrouded the head-waters of the
Mississippi, and traversed a part of the country where white man had
never trod before; he had added greatly to the geographical knowledge of
his country's mightiest river, and satisfied the spirit of investigation
which had impelled him to begin this novel adventure; but the by no
means least interesting, and at the same time, practical part of his
voyage still lay before him. De Soto, Marquette, La Salle, Hennepin,
Joliet and Schoolcraft, all had navigated but portions of the great
flood of water to which they owe their renown; _he_ would descend its
entire course from its source in the wilds of Minnesota to its outlet in
the Gulf of Mexico. He would become familiar with the most striking
features of the country on either side, and study through personal
intercourse the varying phases of American character and life, as he
passed from the fur-bearing, lumber-dealing States of the North, by the
vast wheat fields of the West, and finally reach the cotton and sugar
plantations of the South. No one had ever attempted this before, and it
is probable no one will ever attempt it again, for the perils of a
voyage of three thousand miles in an open canoe are not purely
imaginary. And yet this was the only way in which he could
satisfactorily and practically accomplish his object of making careful
and minute observations along the route. Then, too, being himself so
much interested in all that concerned the great "Father of Waters," he
wished to awaken in others a like interest, and to effect this prepared
a lecture on the "Pioneers of the Mississippi," which he intended to
deliver at every town of importance on both banks as he floated down the
stream. "Pay tribute to those to whom tribute is due" is his motto, and
so the tragic fate of De Soto, the sad but poetic death of Marquette,
and the triumphant banner of La Salle, called forth from his ready pen a
lecture replete with historical interest.
Standing, then, by the source of the mighty river, around which so many
beautiful Indian legends cluster, and about which the white man has ever
been curious, the Captain felt a natural throb of pride that so much of
his great undertaking had been successfully achieved, and a hope that
the future held further good in store for him.
Giving the order for embarkation the canoes were soon gliding across the
water bound for Lake Itasca. Entering this lake, a short stop was made
at Schoolcraft's Island in order to obtain the remainder of their
luggage; after which they re-embarked, at three o'clock in the
afternoon, and continued the descent of the river.
From Lake Itasca the Mississippi flows almost directly north, then takes
a turn to the east, and finally sweeps with ever increasing volume south
to the Gulf of Mexico. At first it quietly pursues its course between
rich meadows, and promises easy and safe navigation, so that our little
band of explorers after leaving Itasca expected to have a quiet and
uneventful voyage until they reached the inhabited part of the country.
Such was not the case, however, for they soon found their progress very
much impeded by drift-wood, snags, rapids, and boulders of every size
and description. They overcame these obstacles in various ways, all
requiring much exertion and endurance, and many a time their patience
was nearly exhausted. Sometimes they forced the canoes under the logs
which lay across the stream, and again cut a passage-way through them.
Now they removed the drift from their path and now were obliged to lift
the canoes over it. A little further on a huge boulder would confront
them, making it necessary to disembark and carry the boats around.
Presently a dangerous rapid would be met, and in shooting it some member
of the party would be precipitated into, the water, or perhaps a hole
stove in one of the canoes. At last they were obliged to make a
portage of about half a mile, and upon launching again, soon discovered
that the principal obstructions had been overcome. This was a great
relief to them, for the intolerable annoyance of swarms of mosquitoes
which came in clouds about them, biting even through their clothing, was
quite enough to bear patiently without having the hardships consequent
upon such rugged voyaging to endure.
[Illustration: Captain Glazier Running Rapids On The Upper Mississippi.]
Laborious, however, as they found this unusually rough canoeing, and
troublesome as were the mosquitoes, both trials sank into insignificance
when compared with their ever present danger of starvation. It will be
remembered how bravely all had decided, when they first made the
startling discovery that their supplies were at a low ebb, to pursue
their investigations even at the risk of running completely out of
rations. The strictest economy had been observed ever since, but despite
all their care they now found that unless they could reach a
trading-post within a couple of days they would be compelled to subsist
on such game and fish as they could capture; rather a precarious means
of existence to say the least, especially as they had but a very few
rounds of ammunition left. It was unanimously voted that Captain
Glazier, who was by far the best marksman of the party, should occupy
the bow of the first canoe, and gun in hand be ready to fire at any game
which he had a reasonable chance of hitting. One day while he was thus
keeping a sharp lookout for anything which gave promise of a meal,
Chenowagesic pointed excitedly to a small, black spot just showing above
the water, and told the Captain it was an otter. The Captain fired, and
to the gratification of all, the animal turned over on its back dead.
That day they were unable to bag anything else, and when they encamped
for the night the Indians prepared the otter for supper. At first the
white members of the party refused to share the meal, but hunger was too
much for them, and so, conquering their prejudices, they satisfied their
appetites with the meat, which probably resembles cat meat more nearly
than any other kind. The next day the Indians managed to kill several
ducks by driving them under the water and then spearing them with their
paddles; and the Captain's brother, having improvised a very ingenious
trolling hook, succeeded in catching two fish. The main part of their
diet, however, for four long days, consisted simply of blue berries, and
Captain Glazier became so weak from hunger and exhaustion that he was
barely able to sit upright. At last they met an Indian, a few miles from
Lake Bemidji, who supplied them with dried fish and other provisions,
and that night they encamped on the shores of the lake.
The next day they pursued their voyage under more favorable
circumstances, the larder being tolerably well supplied, the river free
from obstructions, and flowing between beautiful groves and rich
meadows. Late in the afternoon they reached Cass Lake, where they
pitched their tents for the night, and the following day found them at
Lake Winnibegoshish, the largest expansion of the Mississippi.
Their arrival at this lake was at a time when a strong south wind blew
the waters into white-capped waves, which ran very high, and the canoes
were nearly swamped before they could be forced into the little bay upon
the shores of which the Indian village stands. This village consists of
about a dozen wigwams and log-houses, and presents nothing more inviting
than a fine view of this beautiful lake. An Indian missionary named
Kit-chi-no-din is stationed here, and treated the party with marked
courtesy and hospitality, although he could speak but very little
English. During the two days in which they were wind-bound and obliged
to remain inactive, the Captain took several meals with him, and once
attended service in the little log-church of which he had been installed
rector by Bishop Whipple.
During their enforced stay at Lake Winnibegoshish, Chenowagesic bade
farewell to Captain Glazier and returned to his home at Leech Lake.
Every effort was made by the Captain, who had found him invaluable as a
guide, to persuade him to continue the voyage with them; but his mind
was so filled with the legends he had heard of the Lower Mississippi
that no inducement could prevail with him. The Indians of these northern
regions very commonly believe that the eddies and whirlpools found in
the river further down its course are mysterious monsters, and that the
surrounding country is full of strange animals and fearful sights.
On the third day of their stay at the village, the wind moderated
somewhat and they made an attempt to coast along part of the lake,
hoping to reach the outlet in that way. But after struggling with the
waves all the morning they came to a small inlet, and were forced by the
again increasing wind to seek shelter in it.
The next morning another start was made, and, after some very rough
paddling, the party at length arrived at the outlet of the lake, and
from thence pursued the even tenor of their way without any further
interruption until they reached Pokegama Falls, two miles and a half
above Grand Rapids. Here they found a number of white men, the first
they had seen since leaving Leech Lake, encamped and engaged in building
a small steamboat to run up to Lake Winnibegoshish. After a portage
around the Falls they entered Grand Rapids, where they were rejoiced to
find a post-office, a hotel called the Potter House, and a few other
evidences of civilization, such as a comfortable bed, the first they had
slept in for many days.
After leaving Grand Rapids nothing of any importance occurred until
Aitkin was reached, four days later, unless we except meeting the first
steamboat they had seen on the river. This was quite an exciting event,
for the passengers on the boat knowing from the papers that Captain
Glazier's party were on their way to Aitkin, recognized them, and
testified their pleasure in the meeting by cheering, waving their
handkerchiefs and hats, and calling after the explorers kind wishes for
their safety and success.
At Aitkin, the most northern town on the Mississippi, a brief rest was
taken before the Captain embarked on the second stage of his seaward
voyage. He had now entered the bounds of civilization, and from this
point the principal incidents of his expedition were such as would
naturally occur in a country where the people delight to honor
enterprise, courage and ambition. All along the route great enthusiasm
was evinced. When it was announced through the medium of the press at
what time he would reach a given point, the inhabitants flocked to the
landing-place to do him honor; and many, more impatient than the rest,
would put out in canoes and skiffs to meet him on the way. Upon
disembarking he would be escorted to his hotel, usually preceded by a
band playing "Hail to the Chief" or other appropriate airs, and wherever
he delivered his lecture large audiences greeted him, curious to see and
hear the man who had at last discovered the source of the Mississippi,
and who had come so far on its mighty waters in a frail canoe.
Everywhere he charmed all who met him by the courtesy of his manners,
the eloquence and interest of his conversation, and the modesty with
which he spoke of his important undertaking. Some, indeed, were
disappointed by his lecture, having hoped to hear an account of his
discoveries. But while Captain Glazier might with perfect propriety have
spoken of his own exploits after recounting in glowing terms those of
the old explorers, he is too modest and reserved to say aught which
might in the least seem to detract from the achievements of his heroic
predecessors. Therefore, as his subject was the "Pioneers of the
Mississippi," he spoke only of their exploits, giving them in eloquent
words their just tribute of praise, and leaving it to others to say that
what _they_ had only begun _he_ had triumphantly finished.
Upon leaving Aitkin on the fifteenth of August the birch bark canoes,
with the exception of the one used by the Captain himself, were
abandoned, their places being taken by a Rushton canoe, named "Alice,"
after his daughter, and a Racine canoe of the Rob Roy pattern. Their
departure from this thriving little city was the signal for an
enthusiastic demonstration on the part of its inhabitants, who
congregated on the shore to see them off. Captain Glazier acknowledged
the compliment in a short speech, and then, stepping into his canoe, the
little flotilla paddled away amidst the cheers of the multitude.
From this point the descent of the river was comparatively easy. Except
when rainy weather or violent winds prevailed, the voyagers found much
to enjoy in the novel life they were leading, the varying scenery they
met, and the altogether different phase which the Mississippi, the great
waterway of internal commerce in North America, presented to them.
At Brainerd the Captain delivered his lecture for the first time, to a
crowded and appreciative audience. From Brainerd the party dropped down
the river to the antiquated town of Crow-Wing, opposite the mouth of the
Crow-Wing River. Remaining here over night they re-embarked next
morning, and gliding down the stream arrived at about three o'clock in
the afternoon at a point just above Little Falls. Here they were met by
a number of row-boats and escorted to the town. As the little fleet
approached the land the shores were seen to be crowded with people, and
the band struck up, merrily "A Life on the Ocean Wave," "See the
Conquering Hero comes," and other complimentary airs. As soon as a
landing was effected, cries of "Captain Glazier! Captain Glazier! a
speech! a speech!" went up, and in response to the demand the Captain
made a few remarks. First, thanking them for the kind interest
manifested in his voyage, he continued: "I find a great deal of
speculation as I go down the river in regard to the objects of this
expedition, and it may be well to state what they really are. My desire
is to study thoroughly the people, industries, and general features of
the grandest valley in the world--a valley which extends from the great
watershed almost on the northern boundary of the United States to the
Gulf of Mexico, a distance of three thousand miles, and where the
occupations of the people change from the lumbering and fur-hunting of
the north to the cotton and sugar-raising of the south. To do this
carefully and at leisure I take a method of traveling by which I can
devote as much time as is necessary to every section of the river, and
by which I can observe from a standpoint not reached by the ordinary
traveler. This, ladies and gentlemen, is why you see me to-day
descending the Mississippi in a canoe."
The Captain was then escorted to his hotel by the band, and in the
evening delivered his lecture at Vasaly Hall, continuing his voyage the
following day. Between this point and Minneapolis numerous and dangerous
rapids were met, all of which were passed in safety, and the Falls of
St. Anthony were reached without accident. Below these Falls the scenery
was very beautiful, although the immense number of rain storms
interfered sadly with the pleasure of sight-seeing.
When the party arrived at Lake Pepin, a beautiful body of water, thirty
miles in length and three in breadth, and surrounded by majestic bluffs,
they found navigation almost impossible. The winds sweeping down between
the bluffs caused the waves to rise so high that even the river steamers
had been compelled to tie up and wait for the storm to subside. The
Captain, however, had an engagement to lecture at Lake City, half way
down the lake, and as he had never yet failed to appear at the appointed
time he now insisted upon attempting to reach his destination. The
river men in vain endeavored to dissuade him from his purpose. It took
all day to make a pull of sixteen miles, and many a time it seemed as if
the frail canoes would certainly be swamped; but nevertheless they
arrived at Lake City in time for the lecture. And it may be mentioned
here that in this voyage, as in his journey from Ocean to Ocean, he
seldom failed to keep an engagement to lecture. No matter what the
stress of weather or unforeseen accident which would have delayed most
men, he surmounted every obstacle and invariably appeared on the
platform at the appointed hour.
Bad weather, violent squalls, and dangerous rapids were of frequent
occurrence, but nothing succeeded in crippling the energy which Captain
Glazier had all along exhibited. His mind was bent upon reaching the
Gulf in his canoe, and he pursued his course unmindful of the dangers
which he almost daily encountered. At La Crosse the expedition was
reduced in number to the Captain and Mr. Paine, who, for the remainder
of the voyage, used the "Alice."
St. Louis was reached on the eighth of October, and the voyagers were
heartily welcomed by the various boat-clubs of the city and by many
influential citizens. On October the tenth, they re-embarked and
continued their voyage towards the Gulf.
From here Cairo, Memphis, Vicksburg, Natchez, and Baton Rouge were the
chief halting-places, although many a time night overtook them before
they could reach a town or city, and then they would be entertained at
some plantation near the shore with true southern hospitality.
Everywhere they were received with the utmost cordiality. The various
cities along the banks of the river seemed to vie with each other in
doing honor to Captain Glazier; the press spoke in the highest terms of
his expedition and of his great success, and every opportunity was
afforded him to make the most minute observations respecting the
customs, manner of life, business enterprise, and political condition of
the people of the different States. These observations he proposed to
embody in a work to be entitled "Down the Great River"--a work which, in
the light of the Captain's well-known facility as a writer, cannot fail
to be both interesting and instructive.
New Orleans was reached at last, but as the Captain intended to return
there after visiting Port Eads, no stop was made, and the "Alice"
paddled past the Crescent City, arriving at the Jetties on the fifteenth
of November, one hundred and seventeen days after beginning the descent
of the river from its new found source, Lake Glazier.
Many citizens of Port Eads had assembled in small boats at the entrance
to the Gulf to see the "Alice" and her gallant crew in the act of
completing their long voyage. Cheer upon cheer rent the air as the
beautiful little canoe, bearing aloft at the bow a pennant with the
inscription "Alice," and at the stern the glorious "Stars and Stripes,"
paddled from the mouth of the river out into the wide expanse of the
Gulf. Guns were discharged, flags enthusiastically waved, and every
possible demonstration made which could give expression to the
excitement of the occasion.
Reaching the beacon, the Captain and Mr. Paine disembarked, and,
clambering up on the wall, gazed out on the salt waters of the Gulf,
hardly able to realize that this was actually the goal towards which
they had been slowly paddling for almost four months.
Thus ended the longest canoe voyage on record. De Soto, Marquette, La
Salle, Hennepin, Joliet, and Schoolcraft, had all navigated sections of
the Mississippi, but Captain Glazier was the first to traverse its
entire course, from the remotest headwaters to the outlet, a distance of
three thousand one hundred and eighty-four miles. This, too, he had done
in a frail canoe, amidst heavy rains and violent winds, in heat and
cold, in sunshine and in storm, steadily pursuing his course,
unfaltering in his purpose, deterred by no danger, determined only on
success. In the wilds of Minnesota he stood by the beautiful little lake
whose placid bosom first nourishes the infant stream. Paddling onward
with the current, ever increasing in strength and volume, he passed from
the dense forests of the North where nature holds undisputed sway, into
the realms of a civilization growing daily greater and greater. Finally
he reached the broad Gulf, in which the "Father of Waters," now strong
in the strength of maturity, and vast in his proportions, pours his
mighty flood. Every variety of climate, soil and production came under
his observation, and all the striking peculiarities of the Northern,
Western and Southern character. No other man had ever accomplished this,
and therefore it is not difficult to imagine that Captain Glazier's
emotions, when he first saw the salt spray of the Gulf dash high over
the seaward wall of the Jetties, were of an elevated order, and lifted
him for the time above the plane of every-day life. His long voyage was
completed, the objective at which he had aimed was reached, and his
plans had all been attended with success. Of little consequence now
were the dangers he had encountered, the annoyances which had beset him,
the difficulties he had surmounted. He was proud of the fact that he was
the first to stand at the fountain-head of his country's grandest river,
and was the first to traverse its entire course despite the turbulent
waters and dangerous whirlpools which threatened often to engulf him,
and now at its outlet could write "finis" to the great work of his life.
Few men in the world can say as much--for the energy, perseverance,
unfaltering will and indomitable courage which characterize Willard
Glazier are of rare occurrence, and entitle him to a prominent position
in the ranks of America's distinguished sons.