EXPLORATION AND DISCOVERY.
Launching the canoes.--Flat Mouth and White Cloud again.--An
inspiring scene.--Farewell to Leech Lake.--Up the Kabekanka
River.--Dinner at Lake Benedict.--Difficult navigation.--A
peaceful haven.--Supper and contentment.--Lake Garfield.--
Preparations for first portage.--Utter exhaustion.--Encampment
for the night.--The cavalry column.--Lake George and Lake
Paine.--The Naiwa River.--Six miles from Itasca.--Camping on
the Minnesota watershed.--A startling discovery.--Rations
giving out.--Ammunition gone.--Arrival at Lake Itasca.
The following day, July seventeenth, was Sunday, and Captain Glazier,
being a guest of Rev. Edwin Benedict, felt some delicacy in commencing
his journey on the Sabbath. Mr. Benedict, however, greatly to his
relief, not only decided that there could be nothing objectionable in
his doing so, but also offered to launch his canoe and bid him
God-speed. In fact, Mr. Benedict had done all in his power to alleviate
the discomfort of his stay, by placing at his service the only
"civilized" bed the village possessed, but now Bishop Whipple was hourly
expected to arrive in the course of his regular visitations to the
missionary posts he had established, and the Captain was not inclined to
monopolize a luxury which doubtless the Bishop would appreciate as much
as himself. Accordingly, early in the morning, which proved to be clear
and beautiful, the explorers met on the shore of the lake, preparatory
to their embarkation. A large number of Indians had assembled to see
them off. Flat Mouth was there, watching his white brothers with
interest as they stepped cautiously into the canoes, for Captain Glazier
had not forgotten his first experience with one of these light vessels.
White Cloud, also, was there, chief of the Mississippis, thinking,
mayhap, somewhat sadly of the time when the great "Father of Waters" was
known only to the Red Man who hunted on its banks, or glided swiftly
down its stream, in happy ignorance of the days when city after city
should line its shores, and steamboats force their devious way through
its waters. There, too, were the friends and relatives of Chenowagesic
and the other guides, watching with characteristic gravity the final
preparations. Rev. Mr. Benedict, the only white man on the beach other
than the explorers, stood ready to launch the canoe.
[Illustration: Captain Glazier Embarking For The Headwaters
Of The Mississippi.]
It was a scene well worthy the painter's most cunning skill--the
beautiful lake, the wigwams dotting its shores here and there, the dark
green of the forest in the background, the Indians with their bright red
blankets adding bits of vivid coloring to the scene, and, at the water's
edge, Captain Glazier, upright and soldierly in bearing, ready to step
into his canoe and start forth in search of the mysterious springs which
had hitherto baffled the investigations of all previous explorers.
Finally, all was ready, the baggage being evenly distributed in the
three canoes with an Indian in each to guide and paddle it. Standing in
the foremost canoe Captain Glazier signified his readiness to start,
when Mr. Benedict pushed the light bark into the water, and waved his
hat in token of farewell. A general waving of hats followed, and soon
our explorers found themselves gliding swiftly over the bosom of the
lake, and almost out of sight of the friends who still watched them from
the shore.
After an hour's paddling they reached the other side of the arm of the
lake on which the Agency is situated, and prepared for a short portage
across a point of land which brought them to a larger arm, where the
wind and the waves had a sweep of fifteen or twenty miles. Coasting
along the shore for some distance they finally paddled across the lake
to the mouth of the Kabekanka River. A brisk wind was blowing from the
north, and the waves ran so high as to cause some anxiety in the minds
of those who were not accustomed to the motion of a canoe; for, now they
rose lightly to the top of the wave and anon sank with a swash into the
trough, splashing and dashing the water over their bows. Gradually,
however, as they became more used to their frail barks, their anxiety
lessened, and they began to enjoy the beautiful prospect before them,
and to inhale with delight the invigorating breeze.
After two or three hours steady work they reached the inlet into which
this branch of the Kabekanka empties. So choked up is this inlet with
reeds and rushes that it required some skill to force an entrance for
the canoes. Finally they succeeded, and paddling up the river they came,
at about eleven o'clock, to a little lake caused by the widening of the
stream, which Captain Glazier named Lake Benedict, in honor of Rev.
Edwin Benedict, who had treated him so courteously during his stay at
Leech Lake. Reaching the upper end of this lake they disembarked and
prepared to enjoy their noon-day meal.
A brief rest, in order the better to digest their hearty dinner,
refreshed the travelers so much that they soon re-embarked and pursued
their voyage. Leaving the lake they entered another branch of the
Kabekanka, and found that at its mouth the stream ran between low
shores, and that its bed was so overgrown with wild rice as to make it
almost impossible for a canoe to work its way through. Further up the
river narrowed and ran more swiftly, the wild rice giving place to snags
and driftwood, which made navigation even more toilsome. Almost worn
out, our weary voyagers began to despair of finding navigable waters,
when to their great joy they espied at a little distance what seemed
like a pond filled with rushes. Struggling onward once more they soon
reached the spot, and found what they supposed to be a pond was the
outlet of a beautiful lake about seven miles long and three broad, into
whose quiet waters they glided with glad hearts and a shout of delight.
It was now late in the afternoon, and time to look about for a
camping-ground, on which to spend the night. Paddling slowly up the
lake, trolling for fish as they went, they soon found a spot which
answered their purpose admirably. It was a bluff near the lake, wooded
with Norway pines, and sloping rather abruptly towards the water. By
this time they had caught half a dozen fine pickerel, and, disembarking,
soon had their fire built, tents pitched and hammocks swung. The guides
prepared supper of broiled fish, accompanied by such canned dainties as
had been brought with them and their keen appetites caused by the fresh
breeze and toilsome paddling prepared them to enjoy with zest their
first supper in the open air.
Supper being over they whiled away the time very pleasantly by
commenting upon the experiences of the day, and discussing the object of
their undertaking, and so free were they from all discomfort, even from
that caused by those torments, the mosquitoes, they felt ready to
declare the hardships of their journey had been much magnified. In this
peaceful and contented frame of mind they retired to their tents and
slept soundly until next morning.
Rising at break of day they were soon on the water making their way to
the head of the lake, where they breakfasted, and upon learning that no
name had ever been given to this beautiful body of water, Captain
Glazier designated it Lake Garfield, in honor of our murdered President.
[Illustration: Camp Among The Pines.]
After breakfast they were informed by the guides that they had now come
to the end of uninterrupted water communication, and must prepare for a
portage of two and a half miles. Little did any of the white members of
the party guess what this meant, and so with light hearts they packed
their traps into convenient bundles and prepared to take up the line of
march. The Indians, in the meanwhile, had made for themselves packs
weighing about a hundred pounds. These packs they wrapped in blankets
and secured with a strap which passed over their foreheads, the packs
resting on their shoulders. Each then placed a canoe, bottom upwards, on
top of his pack, holding it there by means of a cross bar.
All were now ready, and the order, "March," was given. Off started the
Indians in single file with as much apparent ease as if they were
taking a pleasure walk along a well-beaten path instead of plunging,
heavily laden, into the recesses of a trackless forest. Captain Glazier,
his brother and Mr. Paine followed their lead, guided only by the white
bottoms of the canoes gleaming through the dense foliage. It was almost
impossible to keep up with the Indians, whose steady trot at times
increased to a run, and in their efforts to do so they barked their
shins, scratched their hands and faces, tore their clothes, and were
almost devoured by the mosquitoes. On they went, however, determined not
to be beaten by the red man, who showed no sign of fatigue or stopping.
Finally, in spite of their determination to the contrary, they felt
absolutely compelled to cry "halt," when lo! the Indians halted, removed
their packs, and, smiling back at them, no doubt in appreciation of
their discomfort, calmly began to pick the blue berries which grew in
abundance all along the route. With a sigh of relief, the rest of the
party threw themselves full length upon the ground, utterly and
completely exhausted, and fairly groaned aloud when they saw the Indians
were about to resume their packs. There was no help for it, however, so
starting up they prepared to follow, but at a somewhat slower pace. For
several hours they continued their fatiguing journey, until, at eleven
o'clock, reaching a high, clear piece of ground, they decided to rest
and have dinner.
After dinner they found they were far too weary to proceed, so the
Indians, who were apparently as fresh as when they first started, made
two trips to the next lake, carrying everything. On their last trip they
were accompanied by their exhausted white brethren, who succeeded at
last in summoning up sufficient resolution to carry themselves.
Embarking once more in their canoes they pulled through three small
lakes connected by creeks, finally camping for the night on the shore of
a fourth lake. The next morning they were up bright and early and ready
to resume their voyage, which for this day was through a chain of lakes
sometimes connected by small creeks, but more frequently requiring them
to make a portage from one to the other. Gabekanazeba, meaning
"portage," is the Indian name applied to these lakes and the stream
which connects some of them; but Captain Glazier, assuming the right
tacitly yielded to all explorers, called them in order after the brave
cavalry commanders of the Rebellion. Bayard, Stoneman, Pleasanton,
Custer, Kilpatrick, Gregg, Buford and Davies, form the column, with
Sheridan, as the name of the largest and finest, at its head.
Finally, they reached a lake of considerable size whose Indian name,
translated, means Blue Snake. This they crossed at a point where its
width is about five miles, catching a number of fine bass as they went,
and camped for the night on a strip of land between it and a second lake
about half its size. These two bodies of water were respectively
denominated by Captain Glazier Lake George and Lake Paine, after his
brother George and Mr. Barrett Channing Paine, who accompanied him
throughout his entire voyage, sharing his dangers and rejoicing in his
ultimate success.
Upon resuming their journey next morning, July twentieth, the canoes
were paddled across a corner of Lake Paine, and, after a portage of half
a mile, they entered a small river, called by the Indians Naiwa. This
river they descended for about five miles, and after making another
short portage, reached a little stream, upon the shore of which they
rested for dinner. Resuming their voyage they arrived at a beautiful
lake late in the afternoon, upon which Captain Glazier bestowed the name
of Elvira, in memory of his eldest sister.
Here the Indians informed them that they were only six miles from
Itasca, but the joy with which they received the good news was somewhat
checked when they heard that the whole distance, with the exception of
one small lake, must be made by portage. However, they had a night's
rest before them, so taking the canoes out of the water, they were
carried to the top of the nearest ridge of land, where the tents were
pitched for the night.
Their camp was now situated on one of a series of diluvial ridges which
forms the highest ground between the Allegheny and Rocky Mountains. It
is, in fact, the watershed separating the Mississippi, Red River of the
North and St. Lawrence River systems, all these great streams having
their origin in springs or lakes found within this section of Minnesota.
While camping here a discovery was made which caused the party much
uneasiness. This was the startling fact that their supply of canned
meats and other rations was fast giving out! To appreciate their
situation under these circumstances we must remember that they were far
from any trading post, and in a country where they could not hope to
find even an Indian at that season of the year, the many lakes and
marshy ground making hunting impracticable. To add to their dismay, it
was also discovered that during one of the exhausting portages the
trolling hooks had been lost in passing through a bog, while their
ammunition was reduced to sixty-five rounds. Too late did the Captain
regret the permission given to his brother and Mr. Paine, both of whom
were but amateur sportsmen, to fire at any game they might see. They had
blazed away recklessly during the entire voyage, so far succeeding in
killing but one duck. Evidently _they_ could not be depended upon to
replenish the depleted larder. Something had to be done, and after
resolutions of strict economy were proposed and unanimously adopted, it
was decided that hereafter the Captain should occupy the bow of the
first canoe, and, with gun cocked, be ready to fire at any game which a
sudden turn in the river might discover. How the explorers wished they
could subsist on the blue berries which were fully as abundant as the
mosquitoes along the entire route! But it required incessant eating of
these to satisfy the appetite, and even then, hunger, in a short time,
asserted its former sway.
The morning following this discovery was so foggy that it was impossible
to make a start before seven o'clock. The day was warm, and the journey
unusually fatiguing, consisting mainly of a portage twice the length of
the first one they had encountered. It was, therefore, with unfeigned
delight that, late in the afternoon of the twenty-first of July, they
discovered the placid waters of Itasca just ahead of them. Launching
their canoes, they soon reached Schoolcraft Island, after a pull of
about two miles, and prepared to make this point their headquarters.
[Illustration: Making A Portage.]
Lake Itasca was discovered by Henry Rowe Schoolcraft in 1832, and was
located by him as the source of the Mississippi. It is a beautiful body
of water, with an extreme length of about five miles, and an average
breadth of a mile and a half. It has three arms of nearly equal size,
and the island, named after the discoverer of the lake, is situated near
the point where they come together. This island proved to be about three
acres in extent, and is so covered with underbrush that our gallant
little party had much difficulty in clearing a sufficient space for
their camp. Only one or two trees of any size were found, and on the
largest of these, a pine, Mr. Paine carved their names and the date of
their arrival.
By this time Captain Glazier had become more than ever convinced,
through conversations with Chenowagesic, that he was right in his
preconceived opinion that Itasca was not the source of the Mississippi.
He was also satisfied that Chenowagesic was pre-eminently fitted to aid
him in discovering the fountain head, owing to the fact that he was
thoroughly at home in that region, having hunted and trapped there for
many years. So intense had become the Captain's desire not to return
until he had thoroughly explored Itasca and the surrounding country,
that it was with an anxious heart he now put the question to his
companions: would they be willing, on such a limited supply of rations
as they had remaining, to assist him in his explorations, or would they
vote for an immediate descent of the river? To his great relief he found
he had so completely inoculated them, or at least his brother and Mr.
Paine, with his own ambition that with one voice they decided in favor
of a thorough exploration. The Indians were soon persuaded to give
their consent, and so, before retiring for the night, the entire party
expressed their determination to stand by the Captain until he was
satisfied that every effort had been made to discover the remotest
springs in which the Great River really had its origin.
[Illustration: Map Of Lake Glazier]