THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER.
An interval of literary work.--Conception of another
expedition.--Reflections upon the Old Explorers.--Indian
rumors.--Determined to find the true source of the Great
River.--Starting on the eventful journey.--Joined by his brother
George and Barrett Channing Paine.--Collecting materials for the
expedition.--Brainerd the first point of departure.--Through the
Chippewa Country.--Seventy miles of government road.--Curiosity
its own reward.--Arrival at Leech Lake.
An interval of three years, from 1878 to 1881, now elapsed in the career
of Captain Glazier; years of retirement from public attention, but by no
means of inactivity on his part. During this period he was engaged
mainly in literary work, and in preparation for a forthcoming expedition
which his ever restless brain had evolved, and which, if successful,
would furnish a valuable contribution to the geography of North America.
The design of the expedition was no less than the discovery of the true
source of the "Father of Waters," the mighty Mississippi; and a voyage
thence, in a canoe, to its mouth in the Gulf of Mexico. It was a novel
and daring project.
The idea of such an undertaking had occurred to him while on his
horseback journey across the continent; of which a brief outline has
been given the reader in previous chapters. He had come to a point in
his onward progress which is noted for its beauty, being one of the most
picturesque spots on the Mississippi, the bridge spanning the river
between Iowa and Illinois, where the rock-divided stream flows grandly
by under the shadow of towering bluffs. His own words best describe the
impression which the scene made upon him, and the consequent birth in
his brain of the most notable achievement of his life:--
"While crossing the continent on horseback from ocean to ocean, in 1876,
I came to a bridge which spans the Mississippi between Rock Island,
Illinois, and Davenport, Iowa. As I saw the flood of this mighty stream
rolling beneath me, I turned in imagination to its discovery in 1541. I
saw the renowned De Soto upon its banks and buried in its depths: I
accompanied Marquette from the mouth of the Wisconsin to the mouth of
the Arkansas: I followed Father Hennepin northward to St. Anthony's
Falls: and I saw the daring La Salle plant the banner of France on the
shores of the Gulf of Mexico.
"Musing thus upon the exploits of the heroic old explorers who led the
way to this grand and peerless river of North America, I felt that it
was a subject of much regret that although its mouth was discovered by
the Chevalier La Salle nearly two hundred years ago, there was still
much uncertainty as to its true source. Within the last century several
distinguished explorers have attempted to find the primal reservoir of
the Great River. Beltrami, Nicollett, and Schoolcraft have each in turn
claimed the goal of their explorations. Numerous lakes, ponds, and
rivers have from time to time enjoyed the honor of standing at the head
of the 'Father of Waters.' Schoolcraft, finally, in 1832, decided upon
a lake, which he named Itasca, as the fountain-head, and succeeded in
securing for it the recognition of geographers and map-makers.
"Notwithstanding the fact, however, that the claim for geographical
honors was very generally accorded to Schoolcraft's lake, as being the
source of the Mississippi, I had frequently been told that many Indians
denied that their ideal river began its course in Lake Itasca, and
asserted that there were other lakes and rivers above and beyond that
lake, unknown to the white man, and that in them was to be found the
original starting forth of the mysterious stream. These reflections led
me to conclude that there was yet a rich field for exploration in the
wilds of Minnesota."
Thus it was that Captain Glazier determined upon a search for this great
unknown of waters. The time, however, was not yet ripe for the
fulfilment of his purpose. There was promised work to be done, duties to
the public waiting to be fulfilled, various literary responsibilities
accumulated from the past which must be met, the projected undertaking
itself to be specially prepared for;--all this to be done before he
could finally turn his face towards his new purpose.
The intervening period was therefore occupied in carefully revising his
literary productions. Several of his books, written hastily at the close
of the war, had been published in rapid succession in a somewhat
incomplete form, and the constantly increasing demand for their
subsequent editions brought a public pressure to bear upon him for their
needed revision which could not well be resisted.
He had also other forthcoming works on his hands, which he was anxious
should be put into form before he again launched himself upon the sea
of uncertain ventures. In order to collect additional material for his
book upon the "Peculiarities of American Cities" it was necessary that
he should make an extensive traveling tour; consequently, a considerable
portion of this time was spent in visiting the leading cities of the
United States and Canada. Adding to all this the necessary preparatory
labor attending his contemplated voyage in search of the true source of
the Mississippi, and it will be seen that the years elapsing between his
journey from ocean to ocean and his latest expedition were actively and
well employed.
At length, however, all his tasks were accomplished, and the month of
May, 1881, found him stopping for a few days at Cleveland, Ohio, in his
journey westward from New York. Leaving Cleveland on the first day of
June, he proceeded to Chicago, and without further tarrying went from
that city directly to St. Paul, Minnesota, intending to make this the
first point for gathering his forces and collecting the material needed
for his coming exploration. Here he was joined by his brother George and
Barrett Channing Paine, of Indianapolis, Indiana. The month of June was
spent at St. Paul in collecting tents, blankets, guns, ammunition,
fishing tackle and all the various paraphernalia necessary for a six
weeks' sojourn in the northern wilderness.
Finally, all arrangements being completed, the party left St. Paul on
the morning of July the fourth, to go to Brainerd, about a hundred miles
above St. Paul, which was to be the point of immediate departure for
Leech Lake and thence to Lake Itasca. Brief stoppages were made at
Minneapolis, Monticello, St. Cloud and Little Falls on their way up the
river, until Brainerd was reached July the seventh.
Brainerd is an enterprising little village at the point where the
Northern Pacific Railroad crosses the Mississippi, near the boundary of
the Chippewa Indian Reservation, and is the nearest point, of any
consequence, to Lake Itasca. Here Captain Glazier stopped for some days
that he might further inform himself upon the topography of the country,
in order to decide on the most feasible route to his destination, and
also to provide such supplies of food as were necessary. After
consulting maps it was concluded that although Schoolcraft and others
had found Itasca by going up the river through Lakes Winnibegoshish,
Cass and Bemidji, the most direct course would be by way of Leech Lake
and the Kabekanka River. It was therefore decided to take wagon
conveyance to Leech Lake over what is known in Northern Minnesota as the
Government Road. This road stretches for seventy miles through trackless
pine forests and almost impenetrable underbrush, the only habitations to
be seen along its line being the half-way houses erected for the
accommodation of teamsters, who are engaged in hauling government
supplies, and the occasional wigwams of wandering Indians. It was opened
in 1856, by James Macaboy, for the convenience of Indian agents and the
fur trade.
At length, at eight o'clock on the bright, summer morning of Tuesday,
July the twelfth, Captain Glazier and his companions, fully equipped,
and with a driver celebrated for his knowledge of frontier life, began
their long and toilsome wagon journey. A ride of between three and four
hours brought them to Gull Lake, where a halt was proposed and made for
rest and refreshment.
This lake was for many years the home and headquarters of the noted
Chippewa chief, Hole-in-the-day, and has been the scene of many
sanguinary struggles between his braves and those of the equally noted
Sioux chief, Little Crow. The ruins of a block-house, remains of
wigwams, and a few scattered graves are all that is now left to tell the
story of its aboriginal conflicts. A family of four persons living in a
log-house form the white population of the place. Reuben Gray, the
genial patriarch who presides over this solitary household in the
wilderness, delights in the title of landlord, and his hotel (by
courtesy) has become somewhat famous as one of the pioneer half-way
houses between Brainerd and Leech Lake.
After resting for a while and doing ample justice to the appetizing
dinner which was set before them, our travelers resumed their journey.
Pine River was their evening destination, and at five o'clock they
reached the ranche of George Barclay, the only white habitation to be
found between their last resting-place and Leech Lake. Here they were
most agreeably surprised to find very good accommodation for both man
and beast.
An excellent breakfast the next morning, with the fair prospect of
reaching by evening the first terminal point of their journey, put the
travelers in exuberant spirits for the day, and nothing but jolting over
one of the roughest roads ever encountered by them could have lessened
their enjoyment of the occasion. A short stop was made for luncheon at
Fourteen Mile Lake, and this being their first meal in the open air they
were enabled, together with the experience thus far gained in their
journeying, to gauge more accurately their supply of rations. It was
readily discovered that they would need at least a third more
provisions for their expedition than would be required for the ordinary
occupations of in-door life; and it was at once decided to provide an
additional supply of bacon and dried meats before leaving Leech Lake.
After luncheon the Captain's brother and Mr. Paine took a bath in the
lake, while he himself found amusement in duck-shooting and in chatting
with some straggling Chippewas, who were about launching their canoes
for a six weeks' hunting and fishing excursion. It happened that Captain
Glazier had never before seen birch bark canoes, and they were therefore
regarded by him with considerable interest, their use in the future
being indispensable to the success of his undertaking. Now the Captain
possesses, in common with most men of adventurous spirit, a
characteristic desire to get at the bottom facts of everything, and this
curiosity here caused him a laughable mishap; for, the better to examine
it, he stepped into one of the canoes, when, from want of experience in
balancing himself in so light a vessel, he was precipitated into the
lake, much to his own discomfort but greatly to the amusement of the
spectators.
Firmly resolved upon more caution in the future, the Captain and his
companions pursued their journey towards Leech Lake, which was reached
at four o'clock in the afternoon.