FROM CHICAGO TO OMAHA.
Returns to Michigan City.--Joliet.--Thomas Babcock.--Herbert
Glazier.--Ottawa.--La Salle.--Colonel Stevens.--Press
Notice.--Taken for a highwayman.--Milan.--Davenport.--Press
Notice.--Iowa City.--Des Moines.--Press Notice.--Attacked by
prairie wolves.--Council Bluffs.--Omaha.
Captain Glazier having succeeded so far in his novel and adventurous
undertaking, felt little concern as to his ability to accomplish the
entire journey from ocean to ocean. He had ridden but one horse--his
faithful "Paul," thus far, and having returned to Michigan City, found
him quite recovered and ready to pursue the journey. On the sixteenth of
September he took his departure from the latter city, and after riding a
distance of twenty-eight miles, rested for the night at Hobart, Indiana.
On the seventeenth he crossed the boundary between Indiana and Illinois.
On Grand Prairie, after dark, his ears were made familiar with the
peculiar howl of the prairie wolf, numbers of which followed in his
track for a distance of two or three miles. Not having seen any of these
animals before, he supposed them at first to be dogs, until advised by
"Paul's" manner and movements that they were animals less friendly to
his equine companion.
At four o'clock in the afternoon, Glazier rode into Joliet, and met Mr.
Thomas Babcock, his advance agent, on Jefferson Street. Preparations had
been made here for the delivery of the lecture, and several prominent
citizens called upon him, having heard of his projected visit to the
place. His brother Herbert, who was also acting in the capacity of
advance agent, had departed to Ottawa to prepare for a lecture there on
the twentieth. While at Joliet, Captain Glazier stopped at the Robertson
House, the proprietor of which, Mr. Conklin, sent word through the
agent, that the captain was to consider himself his guest.
At the suggestion of Mr. Conklin, Captain Glazier on leaving Joliet,
rode his horse along the tow-path of the Michigan Canal, and borrowing a
hook and line from a gentleman who was fishing, caught twenty-three
perch in less than half an hour, the canal seeming literally alive with
this fish.
Leaving Morris, in Grundy County, Illinois, his journey lay along the
north bank of the Illinois River, and after encountering a very severe
rain storm, he reached Ottawa, September twentieth, stopping at the
Clifton House. From the proprietors of this hotel he received many
courtesies. The lecture, as arranged, was delivered in the evening with
the usual satisfactory results.
On leaving Ottawa, the captain followed the telegraph poles along the
Illinois River, passing a large number of very fine corn-fields, and
overtaking an emigrant train on its journey from Ohio to Western
Nebraska. La Salle was reached at six o'clock on the evening of the
twenty-first. Here he enjoyed the society and hospitality of Colonel R.
C. Stevens, and was introduced to a number of other prominent gentlemen,
who were attracted to him by their interest in the projected monument to
General Custer. The lecture was delivered at Opera Hall, Colonel Stevens
making the introduction. The following letter may be presented here to
show the estimation in which Captain Glazier continued to be held as he
progressed in his journey westward:
La Salle, Illinois,
_September 25th, 1876_.
To Captain Willard Glazier: I take pleasure in expressing to you on
behalf of many of our citizens, the gratification afforded our
people who listened to your instructive and entertaining lecture
given at Opera Hall on Saturday evening. While in conversation with
several of our prominent citizens--among them, W. A. Work,
superintendent of our public schools; A. J. O'Connor, clerk of the
City Court; W. T. Mason, Esq., and others; all of whom were present
and heard your lecture--I was requested to write you and tender
their hearty thanks for the entertainment, and their good wishes
for your success in your ride across the continent. Should you ever
again visit our city, you can rest assured you will be most
cordially received.
Very truly yours,
R. C. Stevens,
Late Colonel U. S. Volunteers.
The La Salle _County Press_ noticed the lecturer in the following terms:
"We have not often met with a more agreeable and pleasant gentleman
than Captain Willard Glazier, who entertained a very respectable
number of our citizens at Opera Hall on Saturday evening by
delivering a lecture on 'Echoes from the Revolution.' The captain
has a fine voice and his manner of delivery is decidedly
interesting, while his language is eloquent and fascinating. His
description of the battles of the Revolution, and the heroes who
took part in them, from the engagement on the little green at
Lexington down to the surrender of Cornwallis at Yorktown, was
grand indeed, and was received with frequent and enthusiastic
applause. In conclusion he referred in an eloquent and touching
manner to the 'Boys in Blue' who took part in the late war for the
Union, and all retired from the hall feeling that the evening had
been spent in an agreeable and profitable manner.
"Captain Glazier served under Generals Kilpatrick and Custer during
the late war, since which time he has devoted much labor to
writing, and is now making the attempt to cross the continent from
Boston to San Francisco on horseback, for the purpose of collecting
material for another work. He left Boston in the early part of May,
and will endeavor to reach the Sacramento Valley before the fall of
the deep snow. His horse, 'Paul Revere,' is a magnificent animal,
black as a raven, with the exception of four white feet. He was
bred in Kentucky, of Black Hawk stock, has turned a mile in 2.33,
but owing to his inclination to run away on certain occasions, was
not considered a safe horse for the track. The captain, however,
has broke him to the saddle, and also convinced him that running
away is foolish business; consequently he and the captain have
become fast friends, and with 'Paul' for his only companion, the
gallant cavalryman proposes to cross the continent. Success attend
him!"
Having heard at La Salle that he would find no difficulty in securing a
night's lodging at a village named Hollowayville, Captain Glazier pushed
on for that point, but on applying at the only place of accommodation
for travellers, was looked upon suspiciously by the German host and his
_frau_, who politely intimated their belief that he was either a
highwayman or a horse-thief! These latter gentry had for some time
infested that section of Illinois, and Glazier inferred from the manner
of the people that they more than half suspected him to be one of the
James or Younger brothers, whose exploits they had probably read of.
Turning his back on the "Grand Pacific Hotel," he at length succeeded by
dint of much perseverance, in lodging himself and "Paul" at a farm-house
for the night, but not before he had fully satisfied the worthy farmer
and his wife that he had no evil designs in desiring to spend the night
with them.
On the following day, September twenty-fifth, the captain rode through a
rich farming country, replete with "corn-fields, fine stock and oceans
of fruit."
Passed through Wyanet, Annawan, and across the prairie--smiling
corn-fields and ripe orchards occasionally relieving the seemingly
interminable ocean of grass--and arrived at Milan, Illinois, on the
evening of the twenty-seventh, remaining for the night.
Here he met a Mr. Pullman, an old and intelligent miner who had recently
arrived from the Pacific coast, from whom he obtained valuable
information concerning the country between Omaha and Sacramento. He also
found a number of congenial spirits at Milan, chiefly New Yorkers, who
had spent some years in the Far West, and their conversation partook of
a practical nature bearing on his journey.
Leaving Milan on the following day, he crossed the Government Bridge,
which unites Rock Island with the fine city of Davenport, Iowa, and
registered at the Burtis House--the rider and his horse continuing in
the best of health.
The lecture at Davenport was delivered at the usual hour at Moore's Hall
to a very large and applauding audience, General Sanders presenting him.
The brass band of the place volunteered their services, and appeared in
full uniform. The Davenport _Gazette_ of October fourth said:
"The lecture of Captain Willard Glazier at Moore's Hall last
evening was attended by a large and appreciative audience. The
captain was introduced by our worthy fellow-citizen, General
Sanders, who spoke of the lecturer's career as a soldier and an
author, and said he was _en route_ for the Pacific coast on
horseback, and lecturing for the benefit of the Custer Monument
Fund...."
The following notice is taken from the _Democrat_ of the same city:
"We had the pleasure of meeting Captain Glazier this morning, who
arrived here on horseback from La Salle on Saturday evening. He is
making the journey from Boston to San Francisco on horseback, and
alone, for the purpose of seeing the country, studying the people,
and gathering materials for a new work he is engaged upon. Captain
Glazier is well known to fame as a writer, having published several
valuable works, among them a war-record entitled, 'Capture,
Prison-Pen and Escape.'
"At the breaking out of the war, Willard Glazier, then a mere
youth, entered the Harris Light Cavalry, under Colonel Judson
Kilpatrick, and remained in the service until the close of the
rebellion, his career being marked by many adventures and
hair-breadth escapes. His feat of riding on horseback across the
continent, unattended, to gather materials for a book, is certainly
without a precedent, and shows a brave and intrepid spirit. His
horse 'Paul' was an object of great curiosity and interest."
Leaving Davenport, our traveller passed through Moscow and reached Iowa
City October fifth. The weather was now becoming very cold, and he found
it necessary to dismount occasionally and walk some warmth into his
limbs.
Registering at the St. James Hotel, Iowa City, Captain Glazier lectured
in the evening to a very full house, a profusion of cheers greeting him
on his arrival upon the platform, whither he was escorted by George B.
Edmunds, Esq.
Continuing his journey through Tiffin and Brooklyn to Kellogg, all in
the State of Iowa, he witnessed, he says, some of the finest landscapes
and grandest farms he had yet encountered during his journey. He rode
into Colfax, October twelfth, and Des Moines on the following day.
[Illustration: A Night Among Wolves.]
"I have not seen a brighter or more stirring city in my line of march
than Des Moines," writes Captain Glazier in his Journal. He wandered
over the city in company with two or three of the leading citizens,
admiring its numerous fine buildings and the evidences of its rapid
progress; and the next day the Des Moines _Leader_ came out with the
following notice of his visit:
"Captain Willard Glazier, the horseback traveler across the
continent, took in the Exposition on Saturday evening with intense
gratification. He says he has seen no place, on his route from
Boston, more promising than Des Moines. Among the calls he received
at the Jones House was one from Captain Conrad, a prominent
attorney from Missouri, and now settled in his profession in this
city, who was a fellow-captive with Captain Glazier in Libby Prison
during the rebellion. He continued his journey westward yesterday,
with the best wishes of the friends he has made during his short
stay here."
Captain Glazier speaks very highly of the extremely courteous treatment
he received while at Des Moines.
Adel, and Dale City, and Minden were passed, and arriving at Neola, we
find the following entry in the journal: "Weather most disagreeable. A
drizzling rain made my ride to this place decidedly gloomy. My journey
to-day, as usual, since entering Iowa, has been over the boundless,
never-ending prairie. I have never in my life beheld a grander sight
than this afternoon, when I reached the summit of an immense tableland
between Avoca and Minden."
Wishing to reach Anita before halting for the night, he ventured to
continue on the road after dark, although for some time before sunset he
had been unable to see a farm-house or even a tree as far as the eye
could reach. Giving "Paul" the rein, he followed a blind road, after
crossing a sluice-way, which ultimately led them to a haystack on the
prairie, where the captain decided to spend the night. A pack of prairie
wolves, or coyotes, soon came upon the scene, several of which he shot,
but he was shortly after reinforced by a friendly dog, who came to his
rescue and kept the coyotes at bay for the remainder of the night. In
the morning at daybreak he was glad enough to say adieu to the haystack
where he had passed one of the most unpleasant nights of his journey.
It may here be mentioned that the _coyote_ partakes of the natures of
the dog and the wolf, and is less dangerous to encounter in the summer
than in the winter, which is a characteristic of its wolfish nature. In
the winter, when food is scarce, these animals will attack man, but if a
bold resistance is offered, they speedily decamp.
Hastening forward on his journey through various small and more or less
enterprising cities of the prairie, our traveler reached Council Bluffs
at eight o'clock in the evening of October twentieth. This promising
city is located three miles east from the Missouri River, and contains
an enterprising population of some 20,000; its history dating from 1804.
The locality is surrounded by high bluffs, and hence the name given to
the city.
Striking the Missouri opposite Omaha, our horseman found he would be
compelled to ride up the bank of the river and cross by ferry to the
northern section of the city. On reaching the boat, "Paul" declined to
embark, but with some encouragement and assistance he was at length made
to understand that when rivers cannot be bridged or forded, they can
sometimes be ferried, and so yielded to necessity.
Omaha is almost equidistant between the Atlantic and Pacific, and has
sprung up, flourished and waxed great in the twinkling of an eye. It is
now the grand gateway through which the western tide of travel and
emigration is passing. The first house was erected here in 1853, and the
population now numbers in the neighborhood of 30,000. Omaha can boast
of as fine business blocks, hotels, school-buildings and churches as can
be found in many older and more pretentious cities in the East. There
are also numerous elegant private residences, with grounds beautifully
ornamented with trees and shrubbery, which sufficiently attest the solid
prosperity of Omaha's business men.
A story is told of the postmaster of Omaha which illustrates the changes
made during the past few years. Mr. Jones, one of the first pioneers,
was appointed to the office of postmaster in the autumn of 1854. At that
time there was no office, while letters were rarities. The few letters
that did come were kept by the postmaster in the crown of his hat till
he met their owners. Only a few years have elapsed since this primitive
state of things, and the post-office of Omaha has expanded from a hat
into a handsome stone building, worth $350,000, in which some twenty
clerks find full employment.
Hearing of the impossibility of riding his valuable horse across the
Alkali Plains, he resolved to leave him at Omaha until his return from
San Francisco, and to continue his journey on a mustang. In these plains
the soil for two or three feet seems saturated with soda, and so poisons
the water that if drunk by man or beast, after a fall of rain, is sure
to be fatal. "Paul" was therefore turned over by his master to the care
of G. W. Homan, proprietor of the Omaha Livery Stable; and a good
serviceable mustang purchased of a Pawnee Indian, to replace him.