And even as I write this heading I feel my heart failing me somewhat.
First the largeness of the subject before me is a cause of misgiving
and next the thought of the many differing minds and impressions of
the people who travel nowadays, and who, most of them, are of the
generation of globe-trotters. These care more about covering the
surface of the earth with their tracks, and are not in the least degree
anxious about the culture that may be acquired in travel, and the
nearly dormant condition of the intellect carried about with them in
their peregrinations. Others who travel are eager to see, but have had
in their past life neither the time nor the means to educate themselves
for enjoyment; or they are too young to have had the opportunity to do
so. We all meet with examples of these classes on our own travels, and
there are few of us who have not, at some time, had cause to exclaim,
“Good gracious! what on earth did these people come abroad for?” so
little interest do they find or show in the beauties of nature or art
which surround them. They are far more interested in their meals, the
bills at the hotels, and the extortions of the shops, than in the
finest pictures by Guido, or the loveliest and grandest view from a
mountain-side.
But even while I write, this I know, that the earnest study of years
and the reading of many books would hardly suffice to the knowing of
it all; and we often have to be content with the careful reading of
Baedeker or Murray, and the use of our eyes; and reserve the reading-up
of the subject until we have reached home once more. Even then, we
often do not know what to get in the way of reading, unless we have
some direction to aid us. It is to help those who have time before
starting, and those who desire to read up, as I have said, afterwards,
that these articles are written, and if there be some shortcomings,
some books left out, or others inserted that should not have been put
in, it must be remembered that my views of what I personally want to
prepare myself for a journey may not be your views; and that everyone
is not interested in a special object. Therefore the list must be
comprehensive, so as to take in all comers.
It always seems to me a good plan to start with the history of the
country to which your steps are turned, because the chief interest of
every land must naturally be derived from its past, from the people who
made it what it is, and who lived in its buildings, on its lands, and
worshipped in its temples. If the country in which we travel be our own
England, we generally have learnt enough of its history to make the
names of the actors in it household words; and the local histories have
been carefully collected for us by the many archæological societies in
all parts of England. So that we may, if we like, know all particulars
of the styles of living, and the people, and manners of the past
centuries. In England especially, men who lived in it made the interest
of the land they lived in, and the same is true of Scotland. But in
Ireland it was different, and there the land is the chief point of
interest, and the interest is with legend more than with real people
and things. If the Green Isle had only been fortunate enough to have a
wizard-like Walter Scott to touch the scenery, and make it alive with
people, what a change it would have worked for her to-day!
For a history of England we cannot do better than select Green’s
_History of the English People_, which is not only history, but
history written in a delightsome manner, and quite long enough to be
interesting and concise enough not to fatigue the reader of any age.
But if time be not an object to you, take Miss Strickland’s histories
and read them through, every one of them, even including those of the
_Bachelor Kings_. It may be the fashion to think her gossipy, but her
gossip is worth anything in making you feel that the people of whom you
read really lived, breathed, and walked the earth. Scott, Wordsworth,
and Tennyson, Shakespeare, and Ossian; and in Ireland both Lever and
Lover should bear you company, while the reminiscences of Dean Ramsay
and Wilson will make you feel Edinburgh doubly delightful. In the far
north, William Black has touched Thule and the Hebrides with the pen of
romance; and Kingsley and Blackmore have done the same in the south,
with _Westward Ho!_ and _Lorna Doone_. And in London we walk with
Thackeray and Dickens, on every side, from Piccadilly and Clubland to
Lincoln’s Inn Fields and Fleet Street.
Beside the romancer we must also read Freeman’s _English Towns and
Districts_ and Fergusson’s _Architecture_, George Barrow’s _Wild
Wales_, King’s _Handbook of the Cathedrals_, and Cassell’s _Old and New
London_. Alfred Rimmer’s book on the _Ancient Streets and Homesteads
of England_ is most helpful, and I will end by remarking that you had
better begin Ruskin, with, I think, the Elements of Drawing and the
_Lectures on Art_.
In France we are very well off for books in all languages; but in the
way of history, Guizot’s is rather a long business, and any shorter
history which is available is less tiring, if you be not a rapid
reader. Viollet le Duc will be a great delight to you, I am sure, and
Hare’s _Walks in Paris_ and _Ways near Paris_, and Eastlake’s _Notes on
the Louvre_, with a good guide, should be enough for the capital. In
the way of romance, you have Victor Hugo’s _Hunchback of Notre Dame_.
Miss M. B. Edwards’ _France of To-day_, _A Year in Western France_, and
_Holidays in Eastern France_ are charming books, and so are Hamerton’s
_Round my House_, _Modern Frenchmen_, and _A Summer Voyage on the
Saône_. Miss Pardoe’s books on the Court of France are also well worth
reading for the historical side of life.
Switzerland I have always thought most resembles England, in the
interest of its history, and in the character of its people. In many
ways it is the model country of Europe, for the Swiss are ever open to
change and improvement, and to trying experiments in all the social
walks of life into which many other greater nations would shrink from
embarking. A book recently published on _Social Switzerland_ gives a
view of their charitable and other institutions, and shows this very
clearly, and it is worth reading if you be interested in that side of
the country. General Meredith Reade’s two great volumes of _Vaud and
Berne_, deal entirely with the historical, descriptive, and family side
of the country, and are very interesting. Foreigners have done much to
make Switzerland delightful, and especially the English, for have we
not that delightful _Playground of Europe_ by Leslie Stephens, and
J. A. Symonds’ _Swiss Highlands_, _Tyndall’s Glaciers_ and _Whymper’s
Alps_, to say nothing of a long series of most excellent guide-books,
and histories, and the finest of poetry, beginning with Coleridge’s
_Hymn to Mont Blanc_, and Byron’s _Prisoner of Chillon_.
There seems to be hardly a foot of this most delightful country that
is without its interest, and its literature; and if we read French and
German it is well worth the trouble to read Vinet, the philosopher and
religious writer, and Amiel’s Diary, the saddest and most beautiful of
records.
If you are interested in the flowers of the mountains, you have a
delightful book by W. Robinson, _Alpine Flowers_; and _The Alps in
Winter_ are written of by Mrs. Main (Mrs. Fred Burnaby), and the
many books on Davos Platz, and the Engadine, may all be found in any
catalogue, if health be in question. If you were interested in geology,
glaciers, and botany, you can study them with ease in Switzerland, as
well as Lancastrian dwellings, and the last methods in tree-culture.
As for schools, they abound, and the Swiss education is the best in
the world, in its thoroughness and complete grounding in all subjects.
Lately, too, it has been found worth while to study the Swiss army, and
its manœuvres which take place every year in the month of September.
One of the European countries round which both history and literature
have been making and growing is Holland; and for so small a country
the amount of both is quite marvellous. It is all so interesting too,
and most of it in our own tongue, so that we need not be professors in
Dutch. The most delightful of all histories have been written for us by
American hands, and no library is complete without Motley’s two great
Dutch works, _The Rise of the Dutch Republic_ and the _History of the
United Netherlands_. The great Italian writer, Edmondo de Amicis, has
written two books on Holland—_Holland_, and _Holland and its People_;
and we have the charming volume on the _Dead Cities of the Zuyder Zee_,
H. Taine’s _Low Countries_, and _Holland and Germany_, by J. P. Mahaffy
and J. E. Rogers. In the “Story of the Nations” Series there is an
excellent volume by J. E. T. Rogers, and there are several delightful
tales published lately, with the Low Countries for a background. And
we have made acquaintance with Maarten Maartens, the author of stories
that are Dutch in their characters and surroundings.
You must bear in mind that the Netherlands means Holland and Belgium.
For so small a portion of the earth, the history of Holland is most
interesting; and we must remember that she was once the mistress of
the seas. There is a popular history of the _Great Dutch Admirals_,
by Jacob de Liefde, and he has also written _Beggars, Founders of
the Dutch Republic_. Prescott’s work of _Philip II. of Spain_ covers
much the same ground as Motley’s _Rise of the Dutch Republic_, though
from the point of view of Spain. In this connection, W. C. Robinson’s
_The Revolt of the Netherlands_ may be read. Holland claims to be
the birthplace of printing, and advances the claims of Haarlem, in
opposition to Mentz, and the record of the Elzevir presses at Leyden,
Amsterdam, and the Hague is a very famous one. Lord Ronald Gower has
written a _Pocket Guide to the Art Galleries of Belgium and Holland_,
containing both the public and private galleries; and Kate Thompson has
contributed a _Handbook to the Picture Galleries of Europe_, while
there are several very excellent guide-books in the ordinary way.
Now that Norway is so much visited, it would not be well to leave it
out of the list of places to be seen, and read up before visiting. I
think the most charming book I have ever read about it is Mrs. Stone’s
_Norway in June_, which is quite as delightful as her _Tenerife, and
its Six Satellites_. _Round about Norway_, by Charles W. Wood, is
another pleasant volume; and Professor Boyesen’s _History of Norway_ is
one of the best-written of histories.
There are several best books on Sweden. _The Land of the Midnight
Sun_, by Du Chaillu, and _Under Northern Skies_, by Charles W. Wood,
are concerned with both countries; and in the way of romance, we have
Frederica Bremer’s works, which are full of national colour. Paul du
Chaillu has also written a delightful book called, _The Viking Age_,
in two volumes, illustrated. The _Story of Norway_ has been written
also by Mrs. Arthur Sedgwick. In the way of Historical Biographies,
there are many. Charles XII., Gustavus Vasa, Gustavus Adolphus, and the
Thirty Years War; with that wonderful woman, Queen Christina, and Queen
Caroline Matilda, who was the sister of George III.
The early history of Denmark is of course comprised in the history
of Scandinavia generally; and the same may be said of Iceland and
Greenland. An excellent Handbook of Runic Remains and Monuments, both
in England and Scandinavia, has been written by Professor George
Stephens, and these you should know something about in reference to
both countries. The Danish novel _Afraja_, and Björnstjerne Björnson’s
_Stories and Norse Tales_ are well worth reading. Mrs. Alec. Tweedie
has written _A Girl’s Ride in Iceland_, and a pleasant book about
Finland. And there is the _Ultima Thule_ of Sir Richard Burton, and
_The Story of Iceland_, by Letitia MacColl. _The Land of the North
Wind_, by E. Rae, and _Under the Rays of the Aurora Borealis_ is a book
written by a Dane, and translated. One of the most delightful books I
ever read of, one of which a new edition was issued in 1887, is that
entitled _Letters from High Latitudes_, by the Earl (now Marquis) of
Dufferin; and there is a charming book by Baring Gould, on _Iceland,
its Sagas and Scenes_. Iceland is a country which is more and more
visited every year; but there are no more recent books than those I
have mentioned.
We are so near to Russia that it seems foolish to pass it by, though
I feel it is a difficult country to deal with. The history of Russia
is dealt with in the “Story of the Nations” Series. Mr. A. J. C. Hare
has given us _Studies in Russia_, and the R.T.S. a charming _Russian
Pictures drawn by Pen and Pencil_. Mr. W. S. Ralston’s _Songs of the
Russian Peasantry_ contains an excellent account of the social life of
Russia. In the way of poetry, the Rev. T. C. Wilson has translated for
us _Russian Lyrics into English Verse_, which gives specimens of all
the best recent poets, and there are translations of the works by most
of the Russian novelists, as well as of Tolstoi’s books. But I do not
feel inclined to advise you to enter on this troubled sea of thought.
As a mere traveller you will not need to do so. Turner’s _Studies in
Russian Literature_, and his _Lectures on Modern Novelists of Russia_,
are quite enough for you, I fancy. The latter were delivered at the
Taylor Institute, Oxford, and are pleasant and instructive, both. An
_Art Tour to the Northern Capitals of Europe_, by Atkinson, includes
those of St. Petersburg, Moscow and Kiel.
In Germany the poets are our best travelling companions. I remember
Nuremberg best through the medium of Longfellow, and its history
through the historical tales of Mühlbach, Auerbach, and Marlitt. The
Baroness Tautpheous, the Howitts, and even Hans Christian Andersen,
and Grimm, have all, too, lent a magic to the land. The literature
that has arisen with Wagner and Bayreuth, for a centre, is very wide,
and begins with the _Arthurian Legends_ and the _Nibelungen-Lied_. Of
the first you will have some knowledge from our own Tennyson and the
_Idylls of the King_, even if you do not go as far as the _Mabinogion_,
which was edited and translated by Lady Charlotte Guest, of which there
is an abridged edition. We have a translation of the _Nibelungen-Lied_
by W. N. Lettsom, and another by A. G. Foster-Barham, in the “Great
Musicians” Series. _Wagner_ is written by Dr. F. Hueffer, who has also
written _Wagner and the Music of the Future_. There is a volume to be
obtained at Bayreuth of all the operas given there, which you will
most likely procure, if you should be led there any August to assist at
the Wagner festival.
For Austria we have several delightful fellow-travellers. Amelia B.
Edwards, in _Untrodden Peaks and Unfrequented Valleys_, deals with
the Dolomite region; a more recent book is Robertson’s _Through the
Dolomites_; and there are two books by W. A. Grohman on _Tyrol
and the Tyrolese_, and _Gaddings with a Primitive People_. Victor
Tissot’s _Unknown Hungary_ has been translated from the French, and
the little-known _Dalmatia_ has been dealt with by Mr. T. G. Jackson.
C. W. Wood has written _In the Black Forest_. There are several modern
books on Bismarck and his master, the Emperor William I., and also
on Imperial Germany, and you should choose the most recent of these.
There is an illustrated book, by K. Stieler, called the _Rhine from its
Source to the Sea_, which has been translated and is very interesting.
As a general thing, the guide-books are so many and so various, dealing
with health, baths and spas, and the various artists, musicians,
battle-fields, and seats of learning, that unless you were looking up
any special subject, they will give all the information you require for
travelling in the Fatherland.
In the way of extended literature, you may read, if you like, Helen
Zimmern’s _Half-hours with Foreign Novelists_, and in the way of
distant travels there is, to me, the ever-fascinating Ida Pfeiffer,
that wonderful German woman, whose wanderings were worldwide, and the
contents of whose purse was microscopic at all times. Mrs. Bird, Miss
Gordon Cumming, Lady Brassey, Miss Kingsley, and that delightful Miss
Gates, who is quite the equal of Madame Pfeiffer in her fearless and
adventurous spirit, are all worth reading. James Gilmore, as a writer
and traveller, is so delightful that one feels the deepest regret at
his early death. Mr. and Mrs. Pennell are always excellent companions,
whether they travel to the Hebrides or take a _Sentimental Journey
through France_; or one nearer home, _On the Stream of Pleasure; The
Thames from Oxford to London_, or _Play in Provence_. They are the
pioneers in cycling, for the tourist, and have steadily ridden from
the days of the tricycle, till it has been eclipsed by a more rapid
machine.
A QUIVER OF QUOTATIONS.
“Let a girl grow as a tree grows.”—_Mrs. Willard._
“She gave me eyes, she gave me ears.”—_Wordsworth._
“Education is but another term for preparation for eternity.”—_Sewell._
“By dint of frequently asserting that a man is a fool, we make him
so.”—_Pascal._
“To assert a child is indifferent to its parents is not the way to make
it affectionate.”—_Guyau._
“Our children should be brought up, from the first, with this magnet,
‘Ye are not your own.’”—_Mason._
“All education should be directed to this end, viz., to convince a
child that he is capable of good and incapable of evil.”
“The art of managing the young consists, before everything else, in
assuming them to be as good as they wish to be.”—_Guyau._
“The best service a mother can do her children is to maintain the
standard of her own life at its highest—
“‘Allure to brighter worlds and lead the way.’”—“_A Great Mother._”
“A child should not need to choose between right and wrong. It should
not conceive of wrong. Obedient, not by sudden strain or effort, but
in the freedom of its bright course of constant life. True, with an
undistinguished, unboastful truth, in a crystalline household of truth.
Gentle, through daily entreatings of gentleness and honourable trusts.
Strong, not in doubtful contest with temptation, but in armour of
habitual right.”—_Ruskin._
“Right dress is that which is fit for the station in life, and the work
to be done in it, and which is otherwise graceful, becoming, lasting,
healthful and easy, on occasion splendid. Always as beautiful as
possible.”—_Ruskin._
“God made the child’s heart for Himself, and He will win it if we do
not mar His work by our impatient folly.”—_Anon._
“Omnipotent the laws of the nursery and the fireside. Fatal for weal or
woe the atmosphere of the home.”—_Delano._
“The soul is hardened by cold and stormy weather.”—_Bunyan._
“System is a fundamental basis of education.”—_Sewell._
“Harmony, not melody, is the object of education. If we strive for
melody we shall but end in producing discord.”—_Sewell._
“The prayers, the love, the patience, the consistent example of
holiness, which are to-day in our power, may be committed to God’s
keeping, in the full confidence that even if not permitted to gather
their reward on earth in the present conversation of the children
we love, it will be ours in the great to-morrow of eternity, when
we shall be permitted to recognise the fulfilment of that enduring
promise—‘Cast thy bread upon the waters: for thou shalt find it after
many days.’”—_Sewell._
“Fiction is natural to children. They do not, as a rule, lie
artificially. The lie is the first exercise of the imagination—the
first invention, the germ of art. Children often invent or lie to
themselves. The lie is the first romance of childhood. The child plays
with words as with everything else, and makes phrases without troubling
himself as to reality. The _real_ lie—the _moral_ lie—is dissimulation
which only arises from fear. It is in direct ratio to ill-judged
severity and unscientific education.”—_Guyau._
“OUR HERO.”
BY AGNES GIBERNE, Author of “Sun, Moon and Stars,” “The Girl at the
Dower House,” etc.