Now we have got fairly out to sea. The light land breeze has ceased
and we are lying becalmed. What a sunset there is over that Alpine
range of snowy mountains! Yonder dark hills to the north of Ramah are
glowing as if they were red hot through and through. True this is a
glory that fadeth, yet the cloudless sky long retains the brilliant
hues, and the seaward horizon has a broad red band shading off above
and below into blue. Still more beautiful is the paler pink
reflection, tinting the smooth surface of the water on all sides of us
save the west. There the sun has just gone down, and the lingering
glories of the sky are reflected on the rippling waves in a wonderful
network of bright yellow and deep orange. Look southward again, now
that the darkness is beginning to tell on the scene. Over yonder great
iceberg the rising moon sends a path of silvery light across the
water, now a broad waving band, now innumerable sparks and circlets
dancing like fairy lights upon the gently swelling sea.
All this is beautiful, but what follows is a rarer sight.
"Mr. La Trobe, the northern lights."
"Thank you, captain, I will be on deck in a moment."
I have seen many pictures of the Aurora Borealis, and we have already
had some fine displays during this voyage, but I never witnessed
anything like this. Truly the heavens declare the glory of God and the
firmament sheweth His handiwork! Undulating bands of bright white
light are swiftly scintillating across the sky, now curving upwards
from the horizon, now stretching in broad stripes right over the
zenith. Sometimes the Aurora is stationary and the smooth surface of
the sea reflects the steady light; in the next moment it is moving
rapidly all over the heavens. The swifter the motion the more
brilliant the red or pink or green, which at times fringes the lower
edge of the broad white bands of light.
_Monday, September 17th._--Early this morning I went on deck and found
we were a considerable distance outside the Kangertluksoak Fjord. We
were much nearer the entrance for the greater part of yesterday, but a
strong contrary wind kept us tacking to and fro the whole day, till
the darkness made it impossible to reach Hebron, which lies in a
little side bay to the north of the great fjord. There were many large
icebergs around us, and we passed quite close to some floating
fragments, which proved to be great lumps of ice, necessitating a turn
of the helm to avoid collision with them. It was evident from the
number of these, that a berg had recently broken up. I was told that
yesterday a large piece fell off one near us with a crack like a
cannon shot. I would like to see an iceberg turn over, as they
sometimes do, but I do not wish to be too near it in that case. Last
night the wind fell and the currents drifted our little vessel
perilously near one of the great bergs, which was probably aground. It
was an anxious time for those on the watch, but the Lord preserved us.
The headland to the north of us is Cape Uivak. Uivak is simply the
Eskimo word for promontory, and the names of Cape Webuck on this coast
and Quebec in Canada, are evidently derived from it. There is a board
on that little island, and through the glass one can read the betters
S.F. What does that stand for? Well, that identifies "Friday Island,"
so-called after Sophia Freitag, the wife of a worthy missionary. Once
the captain of a steamer read it S.E., so he steered north-west, and
safely entered Hebron Bay. He afterwards congratulated our captain on
having put up so good a way-mark.
To-day the wind has veered round a little to the north, which enables
us, at last, to run straight in at the mouth of Kangertluksoak Fjord,
past three great icebergs, which stand in a row as if to defend the
entrance. The sailors call them "men-of-war." Our rapid progress soon
brings us in sight of the mission premises, whose red roofs stand out
against the bare rocky background of the steep hillside, tinted a warm
red-brown by the autumn hues of the mosses. There is the church with
its cupola in a line with the long one-storied mission-house. The
store buildings and the boat-house are nearer the landing stage. Some
skilful tacks bring us into the Hebron Bay, and ere long the "Harmony"
lies at her anchorage, here farther from the station than at any other
place on the coast. What a lively scene! Ten or a dozen boats have
already came round us--these Eskimoes are bold sailors--and our anchor
is scarcely down before we are boarded in friendly fashion by numerous
natives. Yonder white boat is the "Harp," and it brings four good
gentlemen in sealskin coats. The patriarch of the band is our
venerable Mr. Kretschmer, who came to Labrador in 1852. This year he
leaves his loved land after thirty-six years of service, during which
he has been home once, twenty-seven years ago. He is followed by the
missionaries Kahle, Wirth, and Hlawatschek, who report their wives and
children all well.
Ere long we visitors, Mr. and Mrs. Dam and myself, are ready to go
ashore with them. Landing from the boat, we climb the hill to the
mission-house, farther from the shore than any other. The sisters and
children welcome us at the door, and for the sixth time I enjoy the
hospitality of a Labrador mission family.
The chapter entitled "A busy week at Nain" would serve as a general
description of the time spent at this or any of the stations.
Conferences with the missionary band, daily services in the Church or
the house, the special meeting for my address to the congregation,
visits to and from the natives, inspection of the mission premises and
their surroundings, pleasant strolls in the intervals of daily duty
and the routine of a mission-house, one or two more extensive walks on
the hills around, profitable evenings in the mission circle, all these
made eight days at Hebron pass very quickly, whilst as ever I was
lovingly cared for by my hosts. Hebron is, to use the expressive term
of the Newfoundland fishermen, a "blusterous" place. It is beyond the
northern limit of trees on this part of the coast, and the wind sweeps
down the bare, rocky slopes with great force. This is the reason for
the exceptional construction of the mission premises.