The word Okak signifies "the Tongue." The station is situated on a
hilly island, which for nearly half the year is practically part of
the mainland, for the broad straits are bridged by thick ice. The
heights around our little settlement command fine views of the
surrounding mountains and fjords. The island of Cape Mugford is one of
the grandest objects in the barren landscape, and the Kaumajets, a
noble range, stretch away to the north of it.
_Thursday, August 30th._--Had an interesting walk over moorland in
search of the site of Kivalek, one of the old heathen villages, from
which the population of Okak was drawn. On a grassy plain we found the
roofless remains of many turf huts. They are similar to the mounds
near Hopedale, already described, but larger and more numerous. One
cannot but view, with a sad interest, these remnants of the former
abodes of pagans without hope and without God in the world. "Let them
alone, they are very happy in their own religion." So some would tell
us; but was it so here? Is it so where the true light has not yet
shined into pagan darkness? No, here, as everywhere in heathenism, the
works of the flesh were manifest. And these, as the Bible plainly
tells us, and as missionary experience abundantly confirms, are
"fornication, uncleanness, lasciviousness, idolatry, sorcery,
enmities, strifes, jealousies, wraths, factions, divisions, parties,
envyings, drunkenness, revellings, and such like." But through the
power of the Gospel old things have passed away. Heathen Kivalek is
uninhabited, and though the flesh yet lusteth against the Spirit in
the lives of the dwellers at Christian Okak, yet, thank God, the
Spirit also lusteth against the flesh, and the fruits of the Spirit
are manifest there, as at the other stations.
_Tuesday, September 4th._--Before we had done breakfast the flag was
flying at the mizen-gaff of the "Harmony," summoning her passengers to
start for Ramah. We speedily packed our baggage, but the wind died
away ere the anchor could be lifted, and we did not sail out of the
bay till the next morning. So some of us utilized the interval for the
ascent of the Sonnenkoppe, so called because it hides the sun from
Okak for several weeks of the year. High on the hill was a pond, which
superstitious natives believe to be inhabited by a sea-monster left
there by the flood. A larger lake is named after our Irish missionary
Bramagin. Arrived at the summit, a very wide prospect over innumerable
mountains and blue sea, dotted with white icebergs, rewarded our
climb. Far below us we could see the mission-house, centre of blessed
influence, for the Eskimo village, divided into Lower Okak by the
beach, and Upper Okak on the slope beyond. Strange to think that, with
the exception of one settler family in Saeglek Bay, the nearest group
of fixed human habitations is at Hebron, seventy miles to the north.
Easier than the ascent was the descent, over rocks and stones,
beautifully variegated mosses, and low vegetation changing its hue to
a brilliant red as the autumn advances.