Our voyage from Zoar to Nain occupied just twelve hours. We left about
5.30 A.M., and our anchor went down again before 5.30 P.M. The day was
fine and warm, and the scenery changed continually. Often the way
seemed barred before us, but, as we sailed on, a narrow strait opened
to right or left, and as we neared Nain our voyage between the islands
became more and more interesting. Presently some Nain Eskimoes caught
sight of the "Harmony," and posted off to the station in their sailing
boat, which kept ahead the whole way. Two men came to meet us in their
kayaks, and paddled alongside for some time, their light skin boats
skimming over the water as easily as the flock of ducks which had just
crossed our bows. Passing the island Tâktuk, a salute fired by the one
Eskimo visible was followed by such a concert of howls from his dogs
seated in a row on a rock as made us all laugh. Next the Kauk came in
view, a great rock looking like a skull, or, as its name implies, "a
forehead," a very recognizable landmark often anxiously looked for on
sledge journeys. Paul's Island, with its deep inlets, was to our
right, and now a good wind sent us forward past headland after
headland till Nain came out from behind the Süderhucke. First we could
see the Eskimo village, whose inhabitants were, as usual, firing their
guns and shouting; then the church came in sight, and the
mission-house with flag at the mast head; then the store and the
little pier, which, as we approached, was crowded with Eskimoes
singing, "Now let us praise the Lord."