In its summer aspect this is a singularly lovely place. Yet, I see
each station at its best, and can only guess at the changes which snow
and ice will work in the landscape. Were this spot in Europe, it would
soon be a favourite summer resort. Being in Labrador, however, the
summer visitors would speedily fly from the swarms of mosquitoes and
sand-flies. These appear as soon as the weather is at all warm and are
a veritable plague in the summer evenings, which would else be so
enjoyable. And when these myriad tormentors with wings and stings are
gone, rude winter cuts short the autumn.
As usual in Labrador, the little mission-station lies on the north
side of the bay, so that the wooded hill behind shields it from the
northern blasts. This fir-clad slope makes Zoar much more friendly in
appearance than any other station. Hopedale is bare and treeless in
its general aspect and so in less degree are Nain and Okak, though all
three have fir-trees in their neighbourhood. Ramah and Hebron are
beyond the limit of even these hardy evergreens, and the latter looks
very bleak and rocky. Pleasing as is the first impression of Zoar,
the conviction soon grows upon one that the site has its serious
disadvantages. First and foremost among these is the fact that it is
not favourable to success in sealing and fishing, so that it is not
easy for the inhabitants to make a livelihood.
The pretty mission-house affords convenient accommodation for two
missionary families. It is, as usual, connected with the church by a
covered passage. To the right of these buildings the little Eskimo
village stretches along the shore, to their left are situated the
well-stocked mission-gardens, from which pleasant paths have been made
through the woods beyond. Between the church and the rocky beach
stands the store, and not far off the salt-house and the boat-house.
The powder-house is always situated on some rock at a safe distance
from the station, for the Eskimoes burn a considerable quantity of
this dangerous material in their ceaseless war with seals, walrusses,
reindeer, and other animals, including an occasional black or white
bear.