Hopedale, Zoar, Nain, Okak, Hebron, Raman; these are our Labrador
mission-stations in order from south to north, and as we visited them
in the "Harmony," with one exception. From Okak we went straight to
Ramah, and returned southward to Hebron, whence we sailed for Europe.
Each station consists of the mission premises and a group of Eskimo
dwellings, situated on the shore of a bay, affording safe and
convenient anchorage for the ship which brings supplies. From Hopedale
to Ramah is about 250 miles, "as the crow flies," but the ship
traverses a hundred miles more in its passages from place to place.
The distances between the stations are about as follows:--
Hopedale to Zoar 90 miles Okak to Hebron 70 miles.
Zoar to Nain 40 " Hebron to Ramah 60 "
Nain to Okak 80 "
The accompanying log of our voyage gives a _résumé_ of its history. I
will take up my more detailed sketches on the day when we arrived at
Hopedale, the southern station.
THE 119th VOYAGE OF THE SOCIETY'S VESSEL.
(28th of present barque "Harmony.")
June 20. Wed.--_Farewell Service in London Docks._
" 23. Sat.--Left LONDON.
July 3. Tues.--Arr. at STROMNESS (Orkney Isles).
" 6. Fri.--Left STROMNESS.
(_London to Labrador, 41 days_.)
Aug. 3. Fri.--Arr. at HOPEDALE.
" 13. Mon.--Left "
" 14. Tues.--Arr. at ZOAR.
" 19. Sun.--Left "
" 19. Sun.--Arr. at NAIN.
" 27. Mon.--Left "
" 29. Wed.--Arr. at OKAK.
Sept. 5. Wed.--Left "
" 9. Sun.--Arr. at RAMAH.
" 14. Fri.--Left "
" 17. Mon.--Arr. at HEBRON.
" 25. Tues.--Left "
(_Stay in Labrador, 53 days_.)
Oct. 26. Fri.--Re-entered LONDON DOCKS.
(_Homeward Voyage, 31 days_.)
The whole voyage occupied 125 days, or close upon 18 weeks.
_August 3rd_, 1888. It is six weeks all but a day since we left
London. We might have reached Hopedale three days ago, for we were
within eighty miles. But a dense fog made it impossible to venture
among the islands, where drift ice might be added to the dangers of
rocks. So we have been driving to and fro for the last three days and
nights over a high sea, studded with icebergs hidden from us by a
thick white mist, which made everything wet and cold. It has been the
least pleasant and most anxious part of our voyage hitherto. This
morning the fog cleared away, and we could see how good the Lord had
been to us, for the icebergs were still surrounding us, but had never
been permitted to come nigh our vessel. (Not till later did we know
how well He had not only protected but piloted us. Drift ice beset the
whole coast, but during those three days it cleared away southward.
Nor could we have reached Hopedale by the usual southerly route, past
the Gull Island, even on August 3rd. The course by which we were
taken, _nolens volens_, was the only one open).
As morning wore on our swift progress brought us to the outer islands,
bare bleak rocks, at whose base the sea was breaking terrifically. The
first was Ukalek (the hare), about equal distance from Nain, Zoar, and
Hopedale. We turned southward, our good ship speeding along before a
favourable breeze and rolling heavily. Many icebergs of all shapes and
sizes were visible around our now widened horizon. Tremendous waves
were beating against their gleaming white sides, and sending the spray
high towards their towering pinnacles, in one case clean over a huge
berg perhaps 150 feet high.
Presently the Eskimoes at their northern fishing-places caught sight
of us. Yonder are two boats sailing from that barren island, and we
can now see three or four Eskimoes in each. As we overtake them they
fire their guns and shout. See, on that island to the right is a
regular little encampment, two or three tents, and men, women, and
children running about excitedly, waving their arms and hallooing.
Soon they launch their boats and row after us. The Ship Hill has been
visible for some time. Now we see the red roof of the mission-house,
and the little cupola of the church. Thank God! the flag is flying at
the mast-head, _i.e._, at the top of the station flagstaff; no death
has occurred in the mission circle. Yonder Eskimoes on the rocks,
congregated about their little cannon, fire their salutes and shout
their welcome. Now we are sailing into the harbour. With mingled
feelings I scan the mission-house. Yes, there are some of the
missionaries at the door. They run down to the pier, launch their boat
and are coming off to us, rowed by two men and two women. I recognize
old Boaz from his photograph; and that is Verona, good faithful soul.
But there are only Mrs. Dam, and the Brethren Kaestner, Asboe, and
Hansen. Where are the rest? Mr. Bourquin has not arrived from Nain; no
news from the North; Mr. Dam is ailing, and must return to Europe with
us. Mrs. Asboe and Mrs. Kaestner await us, so we are soon off in the
boat to get another warm welcome at the door of the mission-house,
about half-past five.
[Illustration: HOPEDALE. (_See next page._)]
I am conducted to the guest-chamber, and ere long we meet at the tea
table, around which the whole mission family is assembled with their
visitors. First our gratitude is expressed for the many mercies to
each and all, included in the safe arrival of the "Harmony," and then
ensues a lively interchange of news and mutual interests.