Wells of Amoul-Gragim — Enormous serpents — High sand-hills
called Helk — Wells of Amoul-Taf — Hills of various-coloured
granite — Wells of el-Ekseif; very good water — Wells called
Marabouty, el-Guedea, Mayara, and Sibicia — High and steep
mountains, defiles and precipices — A severe fall — Encampment
of Sidi-Aly —El-Harib — The Berbers — Tatta — Description
of the country of el-Harib, customs; the tribes who inhabit it.
On the 5th of June, at three o’clock in the morning, we continued
to ascend lofty downs of loose sand; our direction was northerly:
the western side of these downs was covered with thorny plants,
which served the camels for food. The poor animals moved with so
much difficulty, that our progress was slow and painful; we advanced
but a mile an hour.
Towards noon, having climbed to a great elevation, we found ourselves
on an extensive plain of very hard grey sand: we halted near the
wells of Amoul-Gragim; which, like the preceding, were filled up;
these are only seven or eight feet deep; their water is muddy and
salt, but less disagreeable to the taste than that of Trasas.
This night seemed cooler than those which had preceded it: my rest
was disturbed by the appearance of a serpent, which suddenly awoke
me, and had nearly reached my head when I perceived it. I rose in
haste; the reptile was alarmed by the noise I made, and returned
immediately to its hole, which was not far distant: this serpent was
five feet and a half long, and as thick as the thigh of a boy twelve
years old. The idea of so unpleasant a neighbour banished sleep for
the remainder of the night: my travelling companions also experienced
similar visits, and appeared no less dismayed by them than myself.
The whole of the 6th was employed in watering our camels; we procured
for them stalks of _hedysarum-alhagi_, and branches of the tamarisk,
which grows on the plain at some distance from the wells: these
were quickly devoured. This night we lay down as on the preceding,
and I was again annoyed with the sight of enormous serpents.
At four o’clock in the morning of the 7th, we directed our
course to the N. N. E., among the chain of sand-hills called Helk;
but these are not by much so high as those we had crossed the day
before. Sidi-Aly, whom I questioned on the subject, and who at
times vouchsafed an answer, assured me that in none of his former
travels in the Soudan had he seen such lofty sand-hills; his route
had always been more northerly.
As our road was better than that of the preceding day, we travelled
at least two miles an hour. About half past eleven we halted at
the foot of the chain, on a somewhat hilly plain of grey gravel,
the finest I had yet seen.
On the 8th, we set out at four in the morning, taking a northerly
direction, over a sandy and tolerably level soil. Near noon we
halted in a plain of firm ground, covered with sharp flints as flat
as slate, and mixed with small gravel; this plain is surrounded
by gently swelling downs. I longed to emerge from these frightful
deserts, where the only indications of animated nature were the
distressing east wind, and some light-footed antelopes, which swept
across them with the rapidity of an arrow. I saw in several places
skeletons of these animals, dried up by the burning sun; they had
undoubtedly died of thirst.
On the 9th, at about one in the morning, we pursued our journey
northwards; the soil was covered with black gravel, and studded
with pointed rocks of the same colour. A little before eleven we
halted at the wells of Amoul-Taf, situated among rocks of grey
granite; it was necessary to open them; they are only four feet
deep, the water sweet, but not plentiful; tamarisks flourish in the
neighbourhood. We surrounded these wells with straw to prevent the
sand from falling in.
The camels were but half watered, and we filled our leathern bags
in preparation for departure.
At four o’clock in the morning of the 10th, we continued our
progress northward; and climbed a steep hill of granite with much
difficulty, finding no beaten track. The soil we traversed was
broken by hillocks of black gravel, and by sharp rocks: the country
offered not the smallest sign of vegetation. Towards nine in the
morning we descended into a plain, where we found a little grass,
and some very stunted _mimosa ferruginea_.
Here we rested to let our camels graze, and killed one, which,
quite overcome with the heat, could carry the baggage no longer:
its flesh was distributed amongst the people of the caravan, and
made us a very indifferent supper, but for want of better we were
obliged to eat it.
On the 11th we proceeded at four in the morning. If my inclinations
had been consulted, the journey would have been delayed till sunrise,
for I was much fatigued by rising every day so early. I was so
sleepy that it was with much difficulty I could keep my seat upon my
camel. I frequently called to mind that the only chance of surviving
the journey lay in hastening our march; this idea supported my
courage, and restored my exhausted strength: I confess nevertheless,
that I envied the fate of those who can purchase fame at a cheaper
rate than by such painful trials and continually recurring dangers.
We still travelled northward over a dry soil resembling that
which we had traversed on the preceding day. As we advanced in this
direction, the heat gradually diminished, and our thirst became less
intolerable. About ten o’clock we halted; the tent was pitched,
and I lay down in the hope of obtaining a little rest: next to
thirst, the greatest torment I suffered arose from the fatiguing
necessity of rising at all hours of the night, to pursue our journey.
On the 12th, at two in the morning, still half asleep, I mounted
my camel and we resumed our route northward, over a level, hard
and stony soil: I saw some mimosas scattered in the plain at great
distances apart, without any other sign of vegetation. About nine, we
descended, through a very narrow path, into a deep ravine, surrounded
by enormous blocks of granite, of a pink and various other colours,
in strata of eighteen or twenty inches thick. The camels, fatigued
with so bad a road, had much difficulty in descending amongst these
rocks. It was ten A. M., when we halted at the wells of el-Ekseif,
situated at the very bottom of the ravine. These wells, or springs,
are shaded by a pretty grove of palm-trees of beautiful appearance;
such at least is the impression produced by the contrast of this
umbrageous and refreshing spot with the desolation that reigns
around, and with the bare and arid region which we had just crossed;
a few reeds and some rushes also grow round about.
This verdure, embosomed among immense rocks of granite, on a spot
where, as far as the eye can reach, no other trace of vegetation
is perceptible, has something at the same time wild and pleasing,
which produces an effect strikingly picturesque.
The water of the wells of el-Ekseif is very good; I found a real
luxury in drinking it, for it was sweet, bright, and limpid.
Tired of eating nothing but boiled rice, I went to a Moor who
treated me with better fare. I recounted to him my privations,
in which he seemed to take some interest, exhorting me to bear
my misfortunes with patience, and inviting me to partake of his
supper, which consisted of rice, boiled with meat dried in the sun,
and seasoned with allspice; the meat he had brought from Jenné,
in which town he had lived several years occupied in commerce,
I thought, by making him a little present, to obtain in return
frequent invitations to his meals, and therefore gave him a piece
of twenty _sous_, which he accepted; he considered himself however
under no engagement in my favour, for he invited me no more.
On the 13th of June, we remained beside the wells to recover from
our fatigues, and refresh ourselves with copious draughts of the
delicious water. The soil on which we were encamped was dry, and full
of stones, which we were obliged to clear away from the spot where
the camels were to lie, lest they should be hurt. In the evening
water was so abundant here that I was enabled to cool my body with
a calabash of cold water, and I found great benefit from it.
On the 14th, we set out at five in the morning, still pursuing
the same course. Descending into a plain where we found a little
herbage, we halted about nine o’clock to allow the camels to graze.
The road had been difficult and we had travelled about two miles an
hour. At five in the evening, judging that the camels were satisfied,
we continued our journey northwards, but had scarcely proceeded a
mile when we were obliged to wait for part of our company, who had
stayed behind; the ground which we were upon was composed of very
hard grey sand, covered with fine white gravel. Towards eleven at
night, the stragglers, whom their beasts had carried to a distance
in pursuit of food, arrived, and we resumed our route, guided by
the pole-star; we travelled all night and till eleven in the morning
of the 15th.
On the 15th, we met with the same soil as the day before, without
any vegetation. A strong north wind prevailed and greatly incommoded
us. At half past five P. M., after drinking some _dokhnou_, we
again entered upon the desert. Travelling northwards all night,
we found the air unusually cold, but free from fog.
On the 16th of June, at sunrise, we saw a little chain of hills
stretching from north to south; they appeared black, which made me
presume that they were granite.
About ten in the morning, we rested at the foot of a chain of
hills of loose sand, which ran in a parallel direction with the
granite hills.
At two in the morning of the 17th, we broke up our camp, and
proceeded northwards; having on either side of the road hills of
very fine sand. The poor camels cropped as they went along the
heads of some prickly plants, the only species of vegetable which
they could find. About ten we halted at the wells called Marabouty,
situated a quarter of a mile east of our route, amongst high hills
of moving sand: these wells, which are no deeper than the last,
were also filled up, but we soon opened them.
I eagerly pressed forward to ask for drink, for I had not been able
to obtain any on the road: my thirst was intense, and augmented by
a violent westerly wind, which drifted the sand and rendered the
journey most fatiguing. The neighbourhood of the wells is covered
with the excrements of camels, to such a degree, that if the Moors
were not well acquainted with their situation, these traces would
suffice to point them out: the water is very good.
Another camel at the point of death was killed here and some
of its flesh boiled for eating. Sidi-Aly had some pieces dried,
and sprinkled with salt, to preserve them as a luxury for himself
during the remainder of the journey.
On the 18th, at seven in the morning, we proceeded N. N. E. at
first amongst the sand-hills afterwards, over a plain of black
gravel. About ten we halted to feed the camels, and a meal was
prepared with part of the animal killed the day before. This mess
did not provoke the appetite, but necessity taught us to eat it. One
particular that I think worthy of remark is that my health continued
perfectly good in the desert, notwithstanding the privations of
every kind which I experienced. I had no fear of perishing but by
thirst; and this was increased by the apprehension that we might
lose our way and wander to a distance from the wells. Providence,
however, watched for my preservation, and I escaped even this peril,
the greatest, perhaps, which these frightful solitudes present.
At one o’clock in the morning of the 19th, we resumed our route
over a hard soil covered with gravel, and followed the same course;
some hills of little elevation were scattered over the country. At
noon we arrived at a spot which offered a little grass, and there
halted. A man was deputed to take care of the cattle, and we
assembled under the tent for refreshment, and to shelter ourselves
from the wind which now blew up clouds of dust.
On the 20th, at one in the morning, we resumed our journey
northwards, over loose sand, and halted at ten; our camels found
some prickly shrubs scattered over the plain. Towards midnight we
broke up, and again travelled towards the north over some hillocks
which rendered our progress slow and painful.
On the 21st, at nine A. M. we halted in the midst of sand-hills,
amongst which grass grew pretty plentifully. We were a mile west of
the wells of el-Guedea, where we found tolerably good water: the heat
was greater than on the preceding days and it was increased by a dead
calm: we were this day fully occupied in laying in a stock of water.
On the 22nd we recommenced our journey, still proceeding northwards;
our progress was slow, as the camels browzed by the way on some
thorny and half dried plants. The soil was of the same nature
as that we had last traversed. At ten in the morning we halted to
avoid the heat of the day, and about ten at night broke up our camp,
directing our course northward amongst sandy hills till day-light,
when we came to a more level soil covered with white gravel.
On the 23rd, at nine in the morning, we suspended our progress.
Some pieces of camel’s flesh dried in the sun were boiled for
our dinner, but proved as hard as wood. The same evening at nine,
we broke up, and, after proceeding northward for three hours,
turned to the N. N. W. over a level soil, without any vegetation,
and overspread with small gravel.
On the 24th, at eleven in the morning, the heat being insufferable,
we halted under our tent till it moderated, drinking a little
dokhnou; and, about four in the afternoon, after having eaten
some rice boiled with the flesh of the camel, we again advanced,
bearing N. N. W. till sunset, when we turned northward to cross a
chain of low sand-hills on which some grass grows. I learnt from
my comrades that the Moors of el-Harib come as far as this place
in the rainy seasons to pasture their flocks. We continued our
journey till two in the morning, over a hard gravelly soil and
some hills of loose sand; after which we halted till dawn, lying
down beside our camels to rest. On each side of the place where we
stopped were great rocks of granite, amongst which were seen some
miserable plants of _mimosa ferruginea_.
On the 25th, at four in the morning, there being sufficient light,
we slowly advanced amidst large blocks of quartz, among which I saw
many thorny plants and stunted mimosas, the bare branches of which
the famished camels cropped and ate with avidity. Whether these
animals were sensible that they were approaching their own country
and the moment when their wants would be satisfied, I know not,
but they appeared more sprightly and vigorous than usual. About
ten o’clock the same morning, we halted at the wells of Mayara,
situated in a defile surrounded by granite and some mimosas. The
water of these wells, which are only four or five feet deep, is
salt; its taste is detestable: we had still one leather bottle
full of good water, but the Moors would not allow me my share of
it; they kept it all to themselves, and told me to go and drink
with the camels. Three Moorish slaves, who were of our party, were
more fortunate than I was; a small portion of the good water was
given to them. At a hundred and fifty feet from the salt wells,
there is another, the water of which is fit to drink, but it was
nearly dry; several Moors passed part of the day in emptying it,
and towards sunset I could quench my thirst at my ease.
On the 26th, I was awakened at one in the morning: we proceeded
N. N. E. between two hills sixty or seventy fathoms in height,
composed of great blocks of grey quartz and some granites of the same
colour: many mimosas and _hedysarum alhagi_ grow in this defile,
the soil of which consists of grey sand. So long was it since I
had seen any thing similar in point of vegetation, that I thought
myself in the most beautiful country in the world.
About eight in the morning, we entered a plain of black sand, in
which we perceived here and there spots resembling little islands
covered with herbage and mimosas. In proportion as we approached
the limits of the desert, nature appeared less desolate. At eleven,
we halted upon loose sand: we experienced the whole day a stifling
heat, which created a dreadful thirst; as night drew on, some rice
was boiled as usual for supper. About ten o’clock on the same day,
we started towards the N. N. E., over a soil broken by deep ravines,
on the edge of which some vegetation appeared. Our progress was slow,
for the camels were allowed to graze as they went on; we proceeded
but two miles an hour.
At nine in the morning of the 27th, we stopped by the wells of
Sibicia, situated between blocks of pale rose-coloured granite, and
surrounded by a pleasant grove of date-trees, the verdure of which
presented an agreeable contrast with the rest of the soil. The
water of these wells, which are only seven or eight feet deep,
is clear and delicious to drink.
About six in the evening, being occupied in prayer, we heard a
musket-shot at a distance; this noise did not surprise us, as we
knew that Sidi-Aly had gone on before from el-Guedea, to fix upon a
spot where his camp might be pitched, and we expected that he would
send some one to meet us and conduct us thither. Several Moors ran
immediately towards the point whence the sound proceeded: it was
actually a Moor sent to us by Sidi-Aly, who informed us that in two
days we should reach the camp of the Moors of el-Harib. He was the
bearer of letters for several members of the caravan, acquainting
them with the state of the country and the prices of merchandise
and provisions; part of the evening was employed in reading them
publicly, so that the whole caravan shared the benefit of the news.
We set out again at ten in the evening, taking a northerly course;
and travelled all night over a gravelly soil.
On the 28th, about seven in the morning, we descended a very
steep hill, bestrewed with rocks of granite, soft and crumbling,
in strata from twelve to eighteen inches thick. The road was very
difficult and even dangerous for the beasts of burden. About ten
in the morning, we pitched our tents in a plain, upon a stony soil,
and surrounded by hills of granite of the most arid appearance.
I was not suffered quietly to enjoy the shelter which this halt
offered us; for the Moors incessantly tormented me. Sidi-Body, the
same who proposed to Sidi-Molut to sell me, carried his indignities
so far as to strike me. I was obliged to take refuge under another
tent, where I lay down for the remainder of the day. The wind blew
with violence; I was very thirsty and could obtain no water from my
companions. The strangers to whom I applied pitied my situation and
gave me a little. I passed the day without eating; in the evening
I was indebted for a handful of rice to the generosity of my new
hosts, who awoke me that I might share their meal.
As we approached the encampment of el-Harib, some Moors prepared
their dress, with the intention of preceding us on the following
day, in order, no doubt, to enjoy as soon as possible the pleasure
of meeting their families. One of them, the son of Sidi-Aly,
my guide, had paid court to me for several days, that I might be
induced to lend him my wrapper, his own being torn: as I had less
reason to complain of him than of his comrades, during the journey,
I consented to lend it to him.
About nine at night, we again decamped and took a north-west
direction, as we had done from seven till ten in the morning.
Toward midnight, we changed our course to N. N. E. through the
passes of high mountains of granite, amongst which were pools of
salt water. Enormous masses of these rocks, suspended over our heads,
seemed to threaten to tumble and crush us. In one of these defiles,
the camel that I rode took fright, turned aside and ran away. I
was thrown flat on my back upon the gravel.
The pain I experienced was so great, that I was persuaded some of my
bones were broken, and indeed that I was near my end. A Moor came
to my assistance; he took me in his arms, and pressed me violently
against his breast, which afforded me some ease. He assisted me to
overtake my camel, which had been stopped, and made it knee, that
I might remount with more ease; this Moor was a stranger, who did
not belong to the company of Aly. My sufferings were still so acute,
that I could not restrain my groans; I conceived that my skull was
fractured; I experienced a giddiness in my head and could scarcely
see. I was not relieved from these symptoms till the following day,
and the pains in my loins continued with much violence, so that I
could not stoop without great difficulty. I felt the effects of
this fall for more than two months. The Moor who assisted me to
rise placed me himself upon my camel, which I should have been
incapable of mounting without help.
To issue from these defiles, we were obliged to climb a steep and
lofty mountain; the path was narrow and winding, and presented
considerable difficulties, in consequence of which all the company
were required to alight from their camels. I alone continued to ride;
I was so severely bruised that I should have found it impossible to
walk any part of the way. This exposed me to numerous invectives from
some of the Moors, who threatened to throw stones at me to compel
me to dismount: those, however, who had witnessed my accident took
my part, and I was allowed to proceed in peace.
The camels, exhausted by the fatigues of the journey, advanced with
reluctance, took two or three steps, then stopped, painfully turning
their heads first on one side and then on the other, uttering low
moans, while they seemed to measure with their eyes the laborious
task which still remained to be accomplished. It was with regret
that I found myself obliged to continue mounted, for I pitied these
unfortunate animals. The Moors, walking behind, encouraged them
with their voices, repeating certain words in different tones,
in the way of a song, which the camels appeared to understand.
The track frequently passed so near the edge of the rock, and
was so narrow, that I thought it impossible to follow it without
being thrown down frightful precipices. At length, having with
great toil attained the summit, we discovered an extensive plain,
the soil of which, composed of gravel and grey sand, is very hard
and interspersed with thin flat stones, resembling slates, and of
a grey and black colour.
On the 29th, about two in the morning, the soil changed, becoming
more sandy, and offering some traces of vegetation. At daybreak
we stopped to perform our devotions; after having returned thanks
to God, those who wished to precede us set out for the camp upon
fresh camels and went off at a swift pace.
We followed them soon afterwards, in a N. N. W. direction, over a
hard soil covered with coarse grey gravel. About eight o’clock, we
descended into a plain in which the vegetation was tolerably fine;
I particularly remarked the tamarisk in considerable quantity. The
herbage, though dry, on account of the season, afforded abundant
nourishment to our camels.
The inhabitants of the camp, apprised of our arrival, hastened out
to meet us: the women presented the children to their fathers,
who expressed the greatest joy, embracing them alternately, and
affectionately returning their caresses. I was much struck by this
interesting scene, and could not avoid comparing it in my mind with
the coldness, which amongst the Braknas the wife and children of
Mohammed-Sidi-Moctar had manifested on occasion of his return to
his family.
About nine o’clock in the morning, we arrived at the dwelling of
Sidi-Aly. His camp belonged to the tribe of Body; it was composed
of twelve or fifteen tents, covered with stuff made of camel’s
hair, pitched in a spacious plain, to the north of which rose high
mountains entirely bare and running from east to west. My joy on
finding myself in an inhabited region was extreme; the idea that
henceforth I might quench my thirst at my ease made me forget the
fatigue of the desert.
On entering the camp my guide met me laughing, and asked me to give
him my hand in token of peace: he inquired after my health and even
lodged me in the tent of his aged sister, who was so prejudiced
that she durst not approach me. I had soon numerous visits from
men and women; for Aly had related to his countrymen the various
circumstances which had determined me to cross the desert on my
return to my own country. The women, whom I found much more curious
than the men, teased me incessantly; they talked all together,
so that I was at a loss which to listen to. In order to attract
my attention, one struck me on the shoulder, another on the head,
and another pulled me by my clothes. Sidi-Salah, to whom I had in
the morning lent my wrapper, gave me some dates for my breakfast;
I found them however so hard that I ate but few, which nevertheless
renewed the pains in my jaws.
Aly, my guide, had couscous of wheat prepared for two Mahometan
priests, of the Trajacants who had travelled with us: I expected
that he would have offered me a small share, for I had eaten nothing
throughout the day, except the bad dates which had been sent to me;
but I was disappointed and compelled to wait patiently.
At sun-set, Aly killed a fine sheep to regale the priests; the
liver and suet were stuck upon skewers, laid upon the coals, and
eaten half-raw. He gave me a taste of it; the children and their
parents divided the entrails, which they also laid upon the coals.
The remainder of the mutton made a plentiful supper; they gave me
a good portion of couscous of barley-meal, adding a small piece of
the belly of the sheep which had been reserved. Though this couscous
was detestable, both for its want of seasoning and for the great
quantity of fat with which it was made, I ate of it with appetite.
On the 30th of June, the women were early at work grinding wheat
for the breakfast of the priests. The means by which they obtain the
flour separated from the bran is as follows: they have two round flat
granite stones, placed one upon another, and set into one another
by means of a piece of wood fixed to the centre of the lower stone;
the upper has an opening through which the grain is introduced;
it is then turned with a handle. Two women are employed in working
this machine, although it is neither heavy nor difficult to move.
When the wheat had been thoroughly sifted several times through
a sieve of thin canvas, the two daughters of Sidi-Aly, as dirty
as their father, proceeded to knead it into a cake without yeast:
one of them made a great fire of tamarisk wood, to heat the ground
on the spot chosen for baking the cake: when it was considered
sufficiently hot, they swept the place and laid the dough upon
the earth; the embers were then replaced upon it and covered with
loose sand which had been heated for the purpose: when half-baked
it was washed, broken in pieces, and thrown into a calabash, full
of fat, the remains of the preceding night’s supper; a kind
of sauce was now poured over it and a piece of a sheep recently
killed was added. All the family and the priests partook of this
stew, and when they had eaten sufficiently they brought me a small
portion which remained, with a little sauce upon it; this formed
both my breakfast and dinner. On the succeeding days they gave me
nothing but dates; I represented to Sidi-Aly that they disagreed
with me, owing to the complaint in my teeth, which prevented my
chewing them without experiencing severe pain. Aly answered that
he was sorry for it, but he had no meat to give me; that in this
country dates only were eaten during the day and couscous at night:
the remainder of the rice which had been given me at el-Arawan,
was put into his tent, and the family ate of it without ever
offering me any. At length, having no remedy, it was necessary to
conform to this mode of living upon dates alone: but how much did
I suffer! I had soon a sore on the roof of my mouth, and fearing
lest I should be again reduced to the dreadful state in which I
had formerly been, I gave up eating these fruits, and determined
to beg a little camel’s milk from our neighbours, whom I found
but little affected by my petition. Aly had several daughters whose
young lovers were frequently coming to his tent; sangleh was often
dressed for their breakfast, but they never once offered me any,
though they knew that it gave me such excruciating pain to eat the
dates. In three days’ time the family of Aly began to persecute me;
they conceived they could not do better than imitate the chief, who,
on all occasions, manifested an implacable hatred to me. The women
appeared to take pleasure in tormenting me; they would not allow
me a tent; the moment I lay down to sleep, they played a hundred
tricks to oblige me to rise, they pricked me with a piece of wood,
dragged me by the legs, took away my wrapper, and threw water over
my face. Tired of these endless annoyances I resolved to take refuge
in the tent of a good blacksmith who had performed the pilgrimage
to Mecca, which was a great recommendation to him in that country:
his aged mother was very pious, and received me kindly; she gave me
for refreshment milk and water, which beverage they, as well as the
Braknas called cheni. The good old woman thought she was performing a
meritorious act, acceptable to God, in saying that her tent was mine,
and that I might come thither to sleep whenever I pleased. Though a
devout Mahometan, she was full of spirits and fond of a joke, nor
did I find her given to falsehood like the other women. Sidi-Aly,
seeing that his people would not endure me in any of his tents,
had one pitched for me alone, but it was impossible to remain in it,
for, as the air entered at one side only, the heat was suffocating.
Early on the 2nd of July, the sister of Sidi-Aly came to seek me,
holding in her disgusting hands a lump of sangleh covered with hairs,
for she had used the same butter to grease her head and to season
this mess: though I was exceedingly hungry I had not courage to
taste it. This woman, about sixty years of age, took me aside, and
said in a low voice: “Listen, Abdallahi, thou who wert brought
up among the christians, who know every thing except the path to
salvation, thou shouldst be as wise as they are; and I come to pray
thee to make me a charm for one of my nieces who wants a husband;
if thou consentest, and the charm proves good I will provide thee
with sangleh for two days.” She paused a moment to hear my answer;
she then added, that she had induced the Moorish priests to write
several for her and had paid them well in _dragmes_, but that they
had produced no effect; she hoped that mine would turn out better.
The situation in which I now stood did not permit me to reject
this proposition: I only insisted upon the clause that she should
not put butter into the sangleh. Without loss of time she fetched
ink and a straw to use as a pen. She first told me the name of the
desired lover, and the names of his parents, and recommended to me
particularly to keep the secret: as she had no paper I furnished her
with a little bit, and wrote in her presence the charm she wished
for. To give it the more importance, I ordered it to be tied round
the neck of the young girl, which was immediately done, and finally,
to inspire a high idea of my skill in magic, I traced upon a little
board another talisman, directing that the writing should be washed,
and that her niece should drink of the water which had been used for
this purpose. This formality having been punctually fulfilled, the
girl came to ask me what time would elapse before the charm would
operate. As I knew that I should not be many days in the country,
I told her that it would probably not be twenty before she was
married. Her aunt Ayesha (this was the old woman’s name) kept her
word; she brought me on the morrow, in a very dirty calabash, some
sangleh made of barley-meal and without seasoning. The daughters
of Aly, having become more civil since I had shewn my talent for
bestowing husbands, ceased to molest me; they came and offered me
some fresh camel’s milk, and this was the first time that I had
drunk any in the dwelling of my host.
Meanwhile the good old aunt who had so strongly recommended secresy
to me, gave her friends information of the happy talent which I
possessed, and I soon had to write for the neighbouring camps. All
the women of the environs made friends with me that, I might give
them a charm which would procure husbands for their daughters; they
even went so far as to offer me money in payment, which it will be
easily imagined I was far from accepting; but I made no scruple of
taking milk and sangleh for my support: profiting by this innocent
stratagem, I had every day gruel or milk for breakfast. Before
chance furnished me with this method of procuring food, I had given
my host a little coussabe, entreating him to send me each morning,
at least, a small quantity of sangleh: the old hypocrite kept my
present, but gave me nothing in return. One day I reproached him
for his conduct, and he returned me my coussabe: I changed it for
a pair of morocco shoes, for I was barefoot; in the middle of the
day, the sun was so scorching, and the gravel and dry herbage cut
my feet so much, that I had been obliged to borrow shoes to walk in.
The sons of Sidi-Aly, from twenty-eight to thirty years of age,
not wanting my assistance to find wives, did not treat me more
kindly than before; they continued to insult me up to the time of
my departure; they even carried their insolence so far as to present
themselves uncovered before me using the most indecent gestures. Aly,
their father, only laughed at this conduct, which he witnessed.
The Arabs of el-Harib are so harassed by the Beraberas, or Berbers,
to whom they are tributary, that they are fearful of travelling
even in their own country without an escort from among these people;
for if these unfortunate Arabs were met by the Berbers, they would
be beaten and pillaged: for this reason we could not proceed to
Tafilet without an escort. We were therefore obliged to wait for
one of the chiefs of this nation, who lived in a village of the
Drah or Draha, and had been sent for.
On the 3rd of July, this chief arrived at the encampment Aly gave
him a good reception. They agreed upon the price which each load
should pay for transport from el-Harib to Tafilet—for this Berber
was to furnish beasts of burden; they signed a written agreement in
which they mutually bound themselves to fulfil their engagements, and
the Berber promised to return in eight days with the camels. Tired
of the monotonous life which I was leading in the camp, I resolved
for amusement to make a tour among the tribe of Oulad-Gouassim to
visit an eminent Mahometan priest, whose sanctity had been highly
extolled; his encampment lay about three miles to the east of
ours. I approached his tent at the moment when the holy personage
was coming out: several old men accompanied him; they had heard
me spoken of, and immediately informed him that I was unhappy,
and that I had separated from the christians. He answered with
an air of indifference and without appearing to take any notice
of me: “Well then! he has to thank God for his return into the
way of salvation.” I seated myself for a moment upon the ground
with him and some of the Moors, who were vicing with each other in
obsequiousness to him: he ordered one of them to fetch him a little
water, to dissolve some salt which he intended to take as a remedy
for an indisposition, pretending that this beverage would give
him relief. As the vessel which was brought to him was too full,
he was about to pour out some of the water, when one of the Moors
in his company, being apparently thirsty, proposed to drink it, but
the haughty priest, with a contemptuous air, asked who he was that
he should drink out of his satala: the person who aspired to this
favour was no doubt worthy of it, for no sooner had he mentioned
his name than the priest presented the vase to him. During the
short time that I remained in his presence I saw a number of Moors
come to consult him on divers maladies; his only remedy for so many
complaints was to lay his hand gravely upon the part affected, and,
rubbing it gently, to pronounce a prayer. This important person
was also the public writer and the instructor of the children.
The only wealth of this man consisted in his knowledge of the Koran;
but in Africa this knowledge is worth an estate. From all parts
they brought him cotton cloth for his dress, stuff for his tent,
beasts to carry him on his journeys, and barley for the food of
himself and his people: he received all this in exchange for the
charms which he wrote. In his camp he was abundantly furnished with
whatever could contribute to his support and that of his friends; in
return, he gave talismans for the cure or prevention of all diseases,
against thefts, or to obtain husbands for the young females.
As it was late and I did not intend returning to Aly’s camp, and
as the priest had not given me an invitation to sleep in his tent,
I sought elsewhere a lodging for the night; I addressed myself as
is usual to the first man I met, and requested permission to sleep
near his tent: this man received me kindly, installed me in the place
which he usually occupied, and left me; he then sent me a supply of
dates to serve till supper time. I did not touch them, being afraid
of them. During the night I was visited by a Moor, who was a cripple,
and obliged to be carried by another. I was lying upon the ground;
on rising I was astonished to see this little man beside me; he
gave me the idea of a mysterious dwarf; I knew not what to think
of his nocturnal visit, and conceived that by the assistance of
his companion he intended to steal something. Finding that their
presence was not at all to my satisfaction, they desired me not
to be afraid, but I assured them loud enough to be heard by the
neighbours, that if they did not leave me, I should complain to my
host. The deformed dwarf threw himself into the arms of his conductor
and they disappeared like lightning. About ten o’clock at night,
my supper was brought me: it was good couscous with meat, such as
I had never eaten in Aly’s family. The chief of the tent brought
me water to wash my hands, inquired if I had had a good supper,
and took his seat beside me: he put several questions relative to
the customs of christian countries, and then withdrew.
On the 4th of July, after taking leave of my generous host,
I returned to Aly’s camp. On the road I met two women, whose
conversation amused me a little. They begged me to write charms,
one to make her husband who intended to quit her change his mind;
another to procure a husband for a young woman who wished to marry:
they offered me money in exchange, but warned me, laughing, that they
should pay nothing till my charms had taken effect. This conversation
made the walk pleasant, and beguiled the length of the way.
We arrived at the camp: the blacksmith, to whose tent I often
went to sleep, was preparing to transport two cargoes of ivory
to Tatta; I perceived that he paid dues to the Berbers to travel
through the country in safety. On making inquiries concerning the
place to which they were going, I learnt that Tatta is a large town
situated five days’ journey to the N. W. of our camp: the route
leads through the town of Brahihima, which is two days’ journey
from the camp. The goods taken to Tatta are dispatched thence by
the merchants of Soueyrah (Cape Mogador.)
On the 6th of July, the wife of Sidi-Aly, who till then, like
the rest of the family had given me tokens of ill-will accosted
me in a very affable tone, and requested a saphi for bad eyes;
promising me that if I effected a cure, she would give me every
thing I wished. To get quit of her I gave her one immediately, and
she received it with gratitude. I refused her money, but accepted
with pleasure a little milk which she offered me. After some days,
the impatient Mariam (that was her name) seeing that my amulet did
not operate, reproached me bitterly, saying that my skill was no
greater than that of the priests. Knowing from her husband that I
had some medicaments, she asked me for physic, which embarrassed
me greatly, as I was fearful of increasing her complaint; it was
necessary however to satisfy her, under penalty of being considered
disobliging. Convinced that cleanliness was the best remedy I could
prescribe, to force her to it, I diluted with a considerable quantity
of water a small portion of sulphat of quinine, and desired her
to wash her eyes with it; she insisted that I should perform this
operation myself, unfortunately the water, penetrating to her eyes,
made them smart a little: upon which she flew into a rage, loaded
me with abuse, and in conclusion, cursed both the doctor and his
medicines. From that time she gave me no more sangleh.
This incident did not destroy their confidence in my saphies, to the
credit of which moreover old Aly had contributed by a falsehood;
having asserted that when I left Timbuctoo my abdomen was much
swelled, and that I wrote in a book, washed my writing in water,
and drank this liquor, which cured me.
An old woman long tormented me to procure a husband for her daughter;
she dragged me, at length, against my will into her tent, which
belonged to a neighbouring camp, promising me a draught of _cheni_
in recompense. Here I saw the object of her maternal solicitude;
a girl about twenty years of age, repulsively ugly, clothed in
rags, the filthiness of which could only be equalled by that of
her person. Her left cheek was covered by a scar, and she had sore
eyes. Her whole figure presented the most revolting appearance
imaginable; and I perceived at a glance the cause of her mother’s
anxiety to get her married by means of a charm. I felt that it
was quite beyond my art to accomplish such a prodigy. To induce me
however to exert all my skill, the old woman offered me a piece of
dried meat, which she took out of a large leathern sack, where, from
its state of putrefaction, it might have been deposited on the day
that her amiable daughter was born. Notwithstanding the repugnance
which I manifested, the mother insisted upon my acceptance of the
delectable morsel, which she assured me was excellent; but such
was my disgust that I even refused the _cheni_ which she offered. I
was anxious to withdraw, but could not effect my escape till I had
written the amulet required; this done, I fled with all expedition,
invoking for the maiden a man courageous enough to take her to wife.
I have never, in any country, seen women so dirty as those of
el-Harib. This total want of cleanliness is no doubt the cause of
the chronic ophthalmia, and other disorders, with which they and
their equally filthy offspring are afflicted. My medical reputation
drew upon me most unpleasant avocations: the mothers brought to me
in crowds children in so disgusting a state that I could not look
at them without horror; in vain did I avert my eyes, they only
became more importunate, compelling me to examine the miserable
beings for whom they solicited my aid. I could do no better for them
than recommend cleanliness; but this simple remedy they despised,
and would not be content with any thing short of the marvellous.
On the evening of the 6th, a troop of Berbers arrived in our camp
demanding hospitality. Aly ordered for their supper a couscous of
wheat flour, to which were added some pieces of meat dried in the
sun. The food for me and the slaves was separately dressed; but
Aly’s sister, who, since I had given her amulets for her nieces,
had become much more attentive to me, gave me some of their meat
concealed under the bad couscous of barley intended for me.
On the 8th of July, another troop of Berbers carried off several
camels which were grazing at a distance. The whole camp took the
alarm, and arming themselves with guns the men set off in haste,
some on foot and others on horseback; but the thieves were already
distant, and their pursuers returned without having overtaken them.
The evening was spent in lamentations on the part of the owners
of the camels, their relations, and friends. They had recourse to
fortune-tellers to know if they should recover them, and came to
consult me on the subject, requesting a charm to bring them back;
this I refused, under pretence that my writings did not possess
that virtue.
On the 11th of July, the Berbers who were to escort us to Tafilet
arrived, and great was my joy to think that on the morrow I should
quit a place where I had experienced so many mortifications. Aly had
a sheep killed for the Berbers’ supper and gave me a little bit,
with an apology on account of the many persons who were to partake
of it.
On the 12th, at five o’clock in the morning, our preparations
were made for departure; but before quitting this country I shall
give a description of it.
The territory of el-Harib, two days’ journey west of that of
el-Drah, and one to the east of the tribe of the Trajacants,
is situated between two chains of mountains, which extend from
east to west, and separate it towards the north from the empire of
Morocco, to which it is tributary. The inhabitants are divided into
several roving tribes. Their principal wealth consists in the great
quantity of camels which they breed, and which in the wet season
produce abundance of milk for their sustenance. All the Moors of
el-Harib travel in the Soudan; they go to Timbuctoo, el-Arawan,
and Sansanding; the merchants of Tafilet, el-Drah, and Soueyrah,
give them loads for their camels; on their own account they carry
only wheat and dates, and these in small ventures. When in the
Soudan they remain there several months, for the purpose of traffic;
making little journeys to Toudeyni, where they purchase mineral
salt, which they sell again to the principal merchants in the two
chief entrepôts, receiving in exchange grain, the stuffs of the
Soudan, and gold. Having spent nine or ten months in this traffic,
they take a load for Tafilet or some other city, and afterwards
return into their own country and to their family, bringing with
them gold only and some slaves, whom they sell in Morocco.
On returning to their own country, they are obliged to pay a small
tribute to a chief called the sheikh. The goods brought by the Moors
from the Soudan to el-Harib are transported to Tafilet or other
places by the Berbers alone, or under escorts which they furnish at
a price agreed upon; without which precaution the merchants would
certainly be robbed or murdered on the road.
The Moors of this miserable country are incessantly harassed by
the Berbers, from whose habits of rapine they have every thing to
fear, although they pay them a heavy tribute; and not one of them,
whatever rank he may hold at home, dares travel without being thus
accompanied. These roving people, not being themselves cultivators
of the soil, are obliged frequently to go to el-Drah to purchase
barley and dates for food, and not daring to attempt this without
the convoy of the Berbers, they pay them an additional tribute
by way of remuneration. These latter, well armed, are continually
prowling about in the country of el-Harib, to obtain food from the
Moors and even to carry off their cattle.
The inhabitants of this district are so poor that they can purchase
only the cheapest provisions, principally such dates as, having
fallen from the trees before they have become perfectly ripe, are
carefully picked up by the owners, exposed to the sun to dry, and
then put into leathern bags, where they become so extremely hard
that very good teeth are requisite to eat them without pain. Upon
these dates, which they pound in a wooden mortar, and a little cheni,
the Moors of el-Harib subsist during the day; eating sangleh before
evening only in very particular cases.
About eight or nine at night, they usually sup upon a couscous
of barley generally steeped in warm water, in which they have
boiled a handful of herbs gathered in the environ of their camp.
They also breed some sheep, but when they kill one, which is very
rarely done, they dry the meat and preserve it in leathern sacks,
sometimes for six months. They have recourse to this reserve when
they treat strangers, particularly the Berbers, to whom they are
very attentive. As a mark of consideration, they spread before the
tent for their repose a carpet as good as those which we use in
Europe. The master, in honour of his guests, frequently eats with
them from the same bowl, and, instead of offering them pure water,
he adds to it camel’s milk, which in the rainy season is very
abundant. On the arrival of the strangers, the dates and cheni are
immediately set before them as a refreshment till the supper hour.
Though the Moors of el-Harib receive the Berbers thus hospitably,
yet in travelling through their country they are never treated even
with a supper; in their journeys therefore, they are careful to
carry their provision of dates and a little barley-meal, which they
boil in water. The costume of the Berbers differs from that of the
Moors only in a band of coloured stuff, which the former wrap round
their heads in the form of a turban; they also wear ear-rings. They
are all armed and mounted on fine horses, handsomely caparisoned,
and they wear spurs, which are attached to a leather strap firmly
fastened round the instep.
The Moors of el-Harib dress like those on the banks of the
Senegal, except that over their coussabe they wear a linen wrapper
manufactured in the country of el-Drah or Tafilet. They have only
one wife, but like the Braknas change her frequently. They are all
Musulmans, yet they do not addict themselves, like the marabouts,
to the study of the Koran, being satisfied with knowing the first
verse of it without learning to write; a marabout is, consequently,
held in great consideration among them.
The Moors of el-Harib are generally detested by their neighbours;
in el-Drah and Tafilet they are seldom called any thing but cafirs
or infidels. In my life I never saw women so evil disposed and so
dirty as those of this country: they do not veil themselves, like the
women of Morocco, but expose a face disgustingly filthy; the smell
that proceeds from them is most offensive. The inhabitants eat the
camels which have died from fatigue, but not till they have drained
off the blood; they keep some sheep and a few horses. El-Harib
contains eleven tribes, the names of which, as I received them
from an old inhabitant of the camp to which I belonged, are as
follows: Oulad-Rossik, Oulad-Wébal, Oulad-Gouessim, Oulad-Foulh,
Oulad-Ouraff, Oulad-Rouzinn, Oulad-Rahan, Oulad-Nasso, Oulad-Body,
Oulad-Bonlaboi, Oulad-Sidi-Ayesha. One day’s journey west from
our camp are situated the first tents of the Trajacants; at the
distance of four in the same direction are the tribes of Oulad-Noun,
who dwell near the village of Adrar, which must not be confounded
with the country of el-Drah, a small district extending from east
to West, and from north to south, between Morocco and el-Harib;
five days’ journey west from the encampment of Sidi-Aly is the
village of Sous; at fourteen days in the same direction that of
Soueyrah; and at ten or eleven days from el-Harib, to the N. N.
W. is Morocco, the capital of the empire of that name, which these
rovers sometimes visit.
While the men of el-Harib are travelling in the Soudan, the women
employ themselves in making ropes of grass, to fasten the baggage
and to draw water from the wells in the deserts; they spin camel’s
hair with which they make tent-covers; they prepare and tan leather,
and make sandals for their husbands, and the remainder of their time
is devoted to their domestic concerns. As in all other Mahometan
countries, they eat apart from the men.
Sidi-Aly had frequently teased me to part with my two pieces of
blue cotton cloth from the Soudan, that I might have, he said,
the means of purchasing provisions for my journey to Tafilet,
those which had been given me at Timbuctoo and el-Arawan, having
been wholly consumed by himself and his family. Wishing to retain
my cloths, which might probably prove serviceable to me in future,
I resisted his importunities, and thus cheating his cupidity ran the
risk of exposing myself to his resentment. My resolution, however,
produced no ill consequences.