Tongom, a village in the country of the Dirimans — Co — Do
—Sa, a commercial port — Mercantile flotillas — The Soorgoos
or Tooariks, a nomadic and predatory tribe — Baraconga — Lelel
— Garfola —Filinsa — Baracondié — Tircy — Liquor made
from the kondoo — Alcodia, the Diriman capital — Customs of
the inhabitants — Salacoila — Cora — Coratoo — Separation
of the river into two branches — Arrival at Cabra, the port of
Timbuctoo — Description of the place.
On the 3rd of April we took our departure from the village of
Didhiover, which is situated near the northern entrance of the
lake. The river on issuing from the lake may be about six miles
broad. At sun-rise we stood towards the north. In the course of the
morning we passed the village of Tongom, which belongs to the country
of the Dirimans. It contains about four or five hundred inhabitants.
About one in the afternoon, we lay to at a spot where we observed
bushes and cut some for fire-wood. At this spot the river is
only about three quarters of a mile broad. I went ashore with the
slaves. The land, which is subject to inundations, is not destitute
of vegetation. I saw naucleas and mimosas twelve feet high. In the
course of the voyage, the master of the canoe asked me to lend him
five thousand cowries, until the Moor, who was the owner, and who
was daily expected, should arrive. The negro had already cheated
me more than once, and as I was apprehensive that I should never be
repaid, which would have infallibly been the case, I refused to lend
him such a sum. He made several individuals apply to me for him,
but I would not comply. Finding that I was determined not to lend
him the cowries, he threw out threats against me, and went so far
as to pull me by the legs to make me leave the boat. He collected
what articles belonged to me and threw them on deck, accompanying
the action with many violent and rude expressions. He intimated
that he would drive me among the slaves, and thus insulted me in
a thousand different ways.
When I went on shore he objected to my going in the small boat. I
knew not to whom I could complain of all these vexations, for there
was no person on board who could protect me. At last the young Foulah
obtained his consent to my going in the little canoe, to be put on
shore along with some slaves. On landing, I seated myself under the
shade of a mimosa, and, reflecting sorrowfully on the disagreeable
situation in which I should be placed during the voyage if I did not
lend him the cowries, I resolved to make that sacrifice. He came
on shore to me, and assailed me with fresh reproaches, insisting
at the same time that I certainly ought to place confidence in him,
and assuring me that he would repay the debt on the arrival of his
master. Though my resources were greatly diminished, and I felt
that the strictest economy was indispensible, I promised for the
sake of peace to lend him a thousand cowries. From that moment
our quarrel terminated. His example was however followed by one
of his comrades. These two negroes completely abused the advantage
which circumstances had given them over me; and when we arrived at
Timbuctoo I found it impossible to procure repayment.
About three o’clock in the afternoon, while we were proceeding
on our voyage, the canoe, which had put off from the shore with
the slaves to bring them on board, sunk in consequence of being
leaky and overloaded. The poor women, embarrassed by the weight
of the pagnes about their loins, were in the greatest danger: but
prompt assistance was given and every one was got on board without
any further accident. It is usual to anchor the boats close to the
banks of the river, but when the canoe filled we were under way.
The river here makes an elbow towards the east of about six miles;
it then stretches towards the north. It is every where broad and
deep, but the banks are low and bare.
About seven in the evening we anchored opposite Mujo, a village of
the Diriman country, containing from three hundred and fifty to four
hundred inhabitants. The huts are of straw and in the sugar-loaf
form. In the evening I was informed of the arrival of Sidi-Mbark,[2]
the owner of our vessel. I immediately went to him and complained
of the bad conduct of his people to me, but he paid little attention
to my representations: he was along with a Moorish friend on board a
small boat of six tons burthen. He had determined to get under way,
immediately in order to reach Timbuctoo before us. I expressed a wish
to go with him in his boat which moved rapidly, but he alleged that
it was already too heavily laden, and that besides it was so small
that there was not sleeping room for me. He once more consigned me to
the care of the Mandingo, ordering him to supply me with provisions
during the remainder of the voyage, and to treat me better than
he had hitherto done. Sidi-Mbark afterwards tried to console me,
advising me to have patience, and assuring me that we were not far
from Cabra, which was the place of our destination.
The Moors of Adrar, whom I had seen in the country of Banan, stopped
with us at the same spot. They sent Sidi-Mbark a plentiful supper,
consisting of rice, and dried meat, seasoned with giraumons and the
small onions of the country. He invited me to partake of the meal;
and I accepted his invitation with pleasure, for it was late and I
had not yet supped. The Moors shew great address in eating with the
fingers; for my part, however, though I had long been accustomed to
take my food by handfuls, I was still far from being as expert as
they: I sometimes let part of the mess fall on the ground which gave
them great offence, and made them vent their anger in maledictions
on the Christians, who, they observed, had not even taught me how
to eat decently. This was the first comfortable meal I had made
since my departure from Jenné. Sidi-Mbark gave his men colat-nuts
to purchase provisions. I returned on board our boat, where I soon
learned how little regard was paid to the directions of the master
when he was absent.
At sun-rise we stood towards the north, at the rate of two miles
an hour, leaving Mbark asleep in his boat; he soon got up with us
however, for he had six good rowers: he came alongside of our boat
and put on board some merchandise, which had embarrassed him on
account of the room it occupied. He then gave his final orders and
left us, expressing his hope that every man would do his duty. The
river takes a turn to the west, the banks continue low, but at
this spot, the right bank was not entirely destitute of wood. At
ten o’clock we came to a spot were it made an elbow towards the
N. E. About half past ten we passed Co, a large village, in the
environs of which we observed some tamarind-trees and ronniers:
the left bank is formed by sand hills. There is a little island
in the midst of the river opposite to Co; it is inhabited by five
or six hundred Foulahs who have numerous flocks. At noon we found
the course of the river turning towards the N. E. and we proceeded
with it in that direction until half-past four, when it elbowed
round to the north. At this hour we passed in front of Do. The
river then stretched westward. It is still broad and deep enough
for the boatmen to use their paddles in navigating. At half-past
six we halted at Sa, a large village surrounded with a wall and
shaded by some tamarind-trees, (_tamarindus indicus_). This was the
only village with a wall which I had seen on the banks of the river
since we left Isaca. Here we joined from thirty to forty large boats,
all bound for Timbuctoo. Many of these vessels were of about eighty
tons burthen. Sa is a rendezvous for the vessels which navigate in
this direction. It is their practice to assemble at this port and
to proceed on the voyage together, to guard against the depredations
of a tribe in the neighbourhood of this town, who often board their
boats and commit acts of violence and robbery. They are called
by the natives Soorgoos, and by the Moors Tooariks. There were
in the port of Sa from four to five hundred persons, seamen and
inhabitants, who gazed at the flotilla. The port was covered with
bales of merchandise, ready to be shipped on board the canoes. The
commercial activity appeared astonishing. There was something in
the appearance of the flotilla far more interesting than I could
have expected to find in the interior of Africa. The bustle on
every side almost made me fancy myself in a trading port of Europe.
The largest vessels belong to Moors, who carry on the principal
trade of the country: they form themselves into companies, and
employ their canoes in conveying merchandise to Timbuctoo, where
they are paid their freight in salt or cowries.
On the 5th of April, at sun-rise, we got under way and steered a
northerly course until eleven o’clock, when we came to a bend
in the river, which then flowed towards the N. E. On every side we
heard the joyous cries of the sailors, who also fired muskets, still
more strongly to express their gladness. We passed the village of
Baraconga, which is situated on the left bank. About one o’clock
we anchored before Tantala, a pretty village, where we bought some
dry fish, milk, and fine mats made of ronnier leaves. They are
of a long shape and yellow colour; they are used for sleeping on,
and for making sacks.
We continued our course to the N. E. until sun-set, when we passed
a large branch of the river, which runs westerly. About seven
o’clock we brought to at Cooma, where we passed the night. The
river and its banks still presented the same uniformity of aspect.
On the 6th of April, at five in the morning, we got under way,
and stood towards the east. The course of the river was in that
direction, but with a number of small sinuosities on the northern
and southern sides. About three in the afternoon we passed Lelel,
a large village, containing from five to six hundred inhabitants,
and situated on the left bank. A little before it reaches this
village the river elbows round to the north for a mile and a half,
and then turns back to the east. At half past four in the evening we
passed Garfola, a village without a wall, and very much resembling
the former. I observed around it multitudes of Barbary ducks and
other aquatic birds. The banks in the neighbourhood of this village
are somewhat elevated. Some baobabs, bombaces, tamarinds, somps,
mimosas, and naucleas, adorn the environs. The river may be here
about half a mile broad. About seven o’clock we anchored at Doboo,
where we passed the night.
On the 7th of April we waited to give time to the heavy boats, which
we had left astern, to come up, and, about eight in the morning,
stood towards the N. E. with a gentle breeze, favourable for that
course. However, as it soon began to blow fresh, we anchored,
about nine o’clock, at Filinsa, a village containing five hundred
inhabitants. A great number of canoes were under repair in the
port. I saw the carpenters at work: the only tool they used was a
small hatchet, in the form of an adze, with which they shaped out,
awkwardly enough, little pieces of plank, the greater part of which
appeared to be in a state of decay. They were indeed fragments of
old canoes which were thus used for repairs. When there was a hole
in the side of a canoe, these carpenters clapped a bit of plank
upon it, and fastened it, or, as it were, stitched it on with rope,
made of the bark of trees. These patches are always very ill fitted,
but the apertures which are left are stopped up with a mixture of
bruised straw and clay. This compound is covered with a layer of
fresh straw, which is fixed by a second stitching with bark-rope. I
am astonished that boats thus constructed do not sink as soon as
they are afloat. A man is kept constantly employed in baling them,
to prevent their filling with the water which penetrates through the
seams. These canoes belonged to fishermen. Young girls, half naked,
came on board to us with milk and fresh butter.
The N. E. wind continued to blow till three o’clock, and it was
five in the morning before we began to prepare for prosecuting
our voyage. We had scarcely gone a mile when we observed that two
large boats had fallen astern, and we thought it right to wait for
them. We were then off Baracondié, a village opposite to which there
is a large island, which is inundated when the water is high. All
the villages from lake Debo belong to the Diriman country, which
extends to a great distance easterly. A number of pastoral Foulahs
also inhabit the banks of the river, and remove with their flocks
when the inundations commence.
On the 8th of April, at five in the morning, we left Baracondié
and directed our course westerly. About eleven we brought to off
the village of Tircy. The N. E. wind, Which blew a gale, obliged
us to anchor. Here the river takes a turn towards the north. The
village of Tircy contains about six hundred inhabitants; it consists
of straw huts, of the same form as those of the pastoral Foulahs
who inhabit the banks of the Senegal.
In the surrounding marshes I observed a number of negroes gathering
a large herb, which grows only in marshy grounds. This plant is
called kondoo: they dry it in the sun, and then pass it rapidly
over a flame to burn off the leaves, as the stalks only are
preserved. Of these they make large bundles, which they carry
home on their heads. I also saw several asses loaded with these
bundles. I asked my comrades what was done with this plant: they
told me, that after it is well washed and dried by the women, it is
reduced to a fine powder, which is put into a large earthen vase,
having the bottom perforated with small holes. Upon the powder warm
water is poured, and, in filtering, the water becomes impregnated
with the essence of the plant, which is of a saccharine nature. The
liquor thus obtained is much esteemed by the natives, who relish
it greatly; but it has the effect of a purgative on persons not
accustomed to drink it. It always retains a slightly smoky flavour,
which renders it disagreeable to strangers. The Mahomedan natives
indulge in this beverage without scruple: the Moors also drink it,
but they always mix with it a little sour milk.
The stalk of the kondoo is as thick as a reed; it is a creeping
plant, about eight or ten feet long; the leaves, which are
narrow, are six or eight inches long; their edges are indented or
serrated. The banks of the Dhioliba are covered with this plant. The
Dirimans and some Foulahs who inhabit Tircy came to sell us this
liquor, sour milk, fresh butter, dry fish, and mats. About a glassful
of milk was sold for five cowries. I suppose that provisions were
scarce in this village, for the dealers hawked their goods on the
shore, and, in general, would take nothing but millet in payment. It
is true, that among the number, there were many pastoral Foulahs who
pay no attention to agriculture, and whose only resource consists
in their cattle. Never travelling, and not being near any markets,
cowries are of no use to them; but millet is always a ready and
acceptable food. A bowl full of millet purchases twice the quantity
of milk which the same bowl will hold. This is the fixed rate of
dealing in the country. Young girls of twelve or fourteen years
lined the bank of the river, offering to sell us their merchandise:
they were nearly naked, having only a pagne round their loins.
Soon after our arrival at the village of Tircy, we learned that some
of the large boats had run aground, and that one of them had been
completely swamped. This unforeseen accident occasioned considerable
delay in the progress of the flotilla, which was obliged to stop
in order to give assistance to the wrecked boat. The crews of the
canoes hastened to help them; the greater part of the merchandise
was floating about in the river, and, notwithstanding the activity
which every individual displayed, only a very small part of the cargo
was saved. This was a considerable loss to the owners; for, though
the trade is very brisk, the merchants know nothing of the means
of protecting themselves from risks by insurances. Notwithstanding
this unfortunate occurrence, the Moor, whose neglect had caused it,
did not appear in the least concerned.
The 9th and 10th of April were employed in dragging some bags of
rice and millet out of the water; the negroes plunged in and one
was drowned. All the negroes of the flotilla came to the aid of the
wrecked canoe; they generally have an interest in rendering this
kind of service, for they receive, by way of reward, a portion
of the merchandise they save, except the manufactured stuffs,
the value of which they are paid in millet and rice.
I saw at Tircy the two Moors of Adrar whom I had met at Banan; they
greeted me cordially, and invited me many times to sup with them. As
I knew these people think much of presents, I gave them a part of
my dokhnou, a little baked bread, and a sheet of paper; these things
they received with gratitude. One of them asked me whether I wanted
some cowries to purchase milk with: as I had still from five to
six thousand left, I thanked them, but declined their obliging offer.
The women of the Dirimans, like all who live on the banks of the
river from Jenné to Timbuctoo, have their hair ornamented with
small glass beads; they also wear glass, and sometimes metal rings
in their noses. My fellow travellers told me that these people are
robbers, and that they often practise great cruelties; this I was
ready enough to believe, for, during the two days I staid among them,
I observed much quarrelling and fighting. Their dress is the same
as that of the people of Jenné; like them, they have woolly black
hair. They have handsome countenances, aquiline noses, thin lips,
and large eyes; they are armed with two or three pikes and a dagger,
which they promptly make use of on the least provocation. After being
engaged in a quarrel, they fall devoutly to their prayers, for they
are Musulmans, and they often rise from their religious duties merely
to begin fresh contentions. They use the bow and arrow against their
enemies; but some were armed with muskets, and some with sabres;
these weapons had been introduced by Europeans. I saw a man walking
on the bank of the river with a calabash full of saltpetre, which
he offered for sale: I was desirous of knowing in what way it had
been procured; the Moors informed me that saltpetre was manufactured
in the country, and that it was used for making gunpowder.
The village of Alcodia, the residence of the chief of the Dirimans,
is situated to the east of Tircy, from which it is a day and a
half’s journey distant. The crew, having saved all the merchandise
they could, prepared to start the next day.
On the 11th of April, at six in the morning, we left the village
of Tircy; the course of the river is northward. At seven o’clock
we passed Talbocoila; about nine we halted to take in our stock of
fire-wood. The wind blew gently from N. E. Two hours after we had
re-embarked, we observed that the river, which had hitherto always
continued of an equal width, became very narrow and deep; its banks
were still low and bare. In many places we saw on the right bank
quicksands, of a bright yellow colour; I perceived numerous herds
of cattle grazing in the surrounding marshes.
From five o’clock in the evening till seven, when we halted,
the river continued its course to the north. We saw a good many
hippopotami, who kept at some distance; I could see nothing of them
but their heads: the negroes assured me that they often saw them,
and that if they passed near the canoes they would shatter them,
as it were, with a touch. The river at this part is a little wider,
we crossed it to the other side during the night.
I gave the captain of the canoe (who since I had lent him some
cowries had become more civil) a bit of coloured cloth, to make him a
cap, on condition that he would supply me with proper food, till our
arrival at Cabra; thus I was much better fed, than I had previously
been, for the captain, who was not very scrupulous, took no notice
of the Rhamadan, and, indeed, lived very well for that country.
In the course of the night we were awakened by the roaring of
wild beasts.
On the 12th of April, at five in the morning, we stood to the east;
the river continued narrow, but deep; its width, however, was still
nearly equal to that of the Senegal at Podor; about eight o’clock
it made an elbow to the south, and became narrower. This part of the
river may be called the _dungeon_, the name given to a particular
part of the Senegal which is extremely narrow. The country on all
sides is low and damp, and very bare; at the narrow part of the
river, I have just mentioned, there are several marshy islands,
some of which are flooded all the year round; we also observed
four great arms, two on each side. The river seemed to lose itself
in the marshes, the banks being so low that, even at this season,
they are well nigh overflowed.
These marshes, extending as far as the eye can reach, are covered
with pasturage, and frequented by multitudes of water-fowl of
every species; by numerous herds of cattle, sheep, and some
horses, breaking, by their various cries, the silence of these
desert regions. These herds belong to the pastoral Foulahs, who
came to the river’s side to sell us their milk; they wanted to
barter it for tobacco, of which we had none to give them; we were,
consequently, obliged to go without their milk, for they would not
accept cowries in exchange.
When, by the overflowing of the river, all the marshes are covered to
the depth of eight or ten feet, this immense plain forms a vast lake;
at those periods, the tribes of pastoral Foulahs, who have their
huts in the neighbourhood, are obliged to retire into the interior,
where the pasture is abundant during the rainy season. Continuing
our course till ten o’clock in the morning, we found the river
bend to the north; at this part, a very wide arm, branching from
the river, extended to the east.
About eleven we passed Salacoila, a village of the wandering
Foulahs, situated on the right bank; they build their huts on the
quicksands. I went ashore with a negro to purchase a little milk, and
saw some of the women, who were pretty well dressed; they would not
take our cowries, but wanted millet or rice in exchange. They seemed
very gentle in their manners; I visited their little habitations;
they are of a circular form, made of a very pretty kind of matting,
manufactured in the place; this is laid on poles which are fixed in
the ground, and which, being flexible, curve inward at top; seven or
eight of these huts were surrounded by quickset hedges of _celane_,
a euphorbious plant which grows spontaneously on the sandy shores
of the Senegal; these huts were very neat, being cleanly swept in
the inside: they had no other furniture than a few mats spread on
the ground, by way of bedding: some calabashes, wooden plates and
skins for holding milk, were the only domestic utensils I saw. These
Foulahs have the same cast of features and the same resemblance
one to another as those in the neighbourhood of the Senegal; they,
however, speak another language, though they perfectly understand
that which is spoken at Timbuctoo. The only dress of the women was
an apron tied round their waists. They were all exceedingly clean,
and I do not think their hair was greased. They came in crowds to
see me, being very curious, and apparently, very devout, for when I
was going away they took up some sand in their hands and earnestly
requested me to pray over it.[3] I complied with their wishes,
gravely muttering some verses of the Koran. They then carefully
rolled up the sand in their aprons, with the intention of preserving
it as a precious talisman. The nenuphar (_nymphæa cærulea_) grows
in abundance in the immense marshes which surround Salacoila. The
largest species of this plant bears a beautiful blue flower. The
inhabitants gather and dry the seed, and it affords them a valuable
article of food. They also procure grain from the canoes which come
from Jenné.
I observed the river sensibly widening. Its direction still continued
northward. About two o’clock we stopped for some canoes that
were astern of us. At four we again pushed off, steering to the
N. E. The river now widened considerably. About ten we halted for
the night. Here we again observed many hippopotami sporting about
in the water. The negroes hunt this animal and sell its flesh,
which they esteem very highly.
On the morning of the 13th of April, we continued our course to
the north. I occasionally observed some alligators proudly rearing
their heads to the surface of the water, and apparently threatening
any one who might be bold enough to attack them. Scarcely had we
proceeded three or four miles when we were obliged to halt to assist
a canoe which had sunk. The crews of all the vessels were dispatched
for this purpose, and the whole cargo was saved, but not without
considerable difficulty. Every one assiduously exerted himself to
dry the wet merchandise, and stow it again. During this disorder
the whole cargo was lying on the shore exposed to the depredations
of the sailors, who would have made no scruple of appropriating any
article to themselves, had not guards been stationed here and there
to watch them. When the cargo was once more in safety, the men who
had rescued it were paid with millet. We then prepared to advance,
leaving the owners and crew of the wreck to wait till they could
get another canoe from Timbuctoo. Fortunately for them there was
no village near, or part of their cargo would in all probability
have been carried off.
About noon we took an easterly direction; the river continued wide,
its banks low and adorned with a few bushes. Along the shore I
observed the traces of elephants, who inhabited the neighbouring
woods. I was anxious to see one of these animals, but could not
gratify my curiosity. It is strange that, during my long wanderings
in the interior of Africa, which, according to the accounts of many
travellers, is infested with wild beasts, I never met with one. At
sun-set the river took a turn to the north. About nine in the evening
we stopped to rest for the night; the heat had been excessive.
At five on the morning of the 14th of April we again started. Half
an hour after sun-rise we passed two little islands pretty close
to each other; here I observed a large arm of the river running
W. S. W. At a little distance northward were two hills, which did
not appear very high.
At seven in the morning we found the river turning N. E. and
about nine o’clock it began to flow due east, in which direction
it continued for four or five miles; then again it turned N. E.,
and about two in the afternoon we found ourselves before the little
village of Diré, a dependency of Timbuctoo. As far as I could judge,
I should suppose it contained about 150 or 200 inhabitants. Their
houses are built of earth, and have terraced roofs. In an arm of
the river which branched off in the neighbourhood of the village,
there were six vessels of sixty tons burthen, on their way from
Jenné. They had been waiting for us sixteen days. The Soorgoos
or Tooariks would not allow them to pass without the payment
of a ransom. These robbers daily went on board the canoes to
levy contributions of food. The Soorgoos are a wandering tribe
who inhabit the banks of the Dhioliba. They contrive to make
themselves feared, and live at the expense of the poor negroes,
whom they make their tributaries. I shall describe them more fully
hereafter. The vessels which had been so long detained, joined
us, firing muskets in token of their joy. The negroes of Diré,
who are tributaries of the Soorgoos, informed us that the latter
were absent, and that consequently we should escape the annoyance
of their visits. In company with the canoes which had joined us,
we now proceeded about four miles to the north-east, and afterwards
turned due east. At sun-set we were overtaken by a violent storm,
and we gained the right bank of the river, to which we moored our
canoes with pikes made for that purpose. From N. E. to S. W. the
sky was overspread with clouds driven by a gale, which continued part
of the night. It did not raise the sand, but the heat was very great.
At six o’clock on the morning of the 15th of April, we took an
easterly direction, and shortly afterwards I observed the river
turning S. E. It was still as wide and deep as before, and its banks
were very low. A few dwarf trees were growing in the plains. I was
astonished to see so vast a mass of water, notwithstanding the idea
I had formed of the magnitude of this river before my departure. The
Senegal is but an ordinary river in comparison with this, which,
at the season here referred to, was nine or ten feet deep. The
current is scarcely perceptible; I should think about a knot and
a half an hour. About eight in the morning we passed an island, on
which grow some low shrubs. We proceeded but slowly, having to wait
for the large canoes, which could not advance so rapidly as we did.
About half past eight in the morning we lay to for half an hour
before the island. We saw the little village of Khokhoola, which
like Diré, is a dependence of Timbuctoo. Here we met a little canoe
which had left that city on the preceding morning. She had on board
several of the Soorgoos, who exact a maintenance for themselves as
far as Salacoila, where they stop, and then get conveyed home by
some returning canoes. If they cannot obtain a conveyance in this
way, they travel home by land. At Khokhoola the river takes a little
turn to the N. E. and then to the north. The Soorgoos were waiting
for us in the village, having been informed of our expected arrival.
They came on board the canoes, being rowed, from the shore, in
little boats of their own. They were supplied with rice and water
and honey mixed, a beverage of which they are exceedingly fond, and
which they call _Jenné-hari_ (water of Jenné.) These vagabonds levy
their exactions without moderation. We did not allow them to come
on board our canoe; we handed them out a bag of rice and they went
away to importune some of our companions. When they are on board
the canoes, and the negroes want to get rid of them, they fire a
musket close to their ears, and they speedily take their departure,
for they are very much afraid of gunpowder. They themselves never
make use of fire-arms.
During the visit of the Soorgoos I was directed to go below,
to avoid being seen by them; for, when they see a Moor on board,
especially if his colour be lighter than usual, they assert that
he is richer than the rest, as if his fortune depended on his
complexion. They then become extremely troublesome, and will not
suffer the canoes to depart without exacting a contribution from
the white man, whom they call _almankoye_ (the rich man.).
I was afterwards informed that these savages had detained on
shore a Moor, whose complexion was, unluckily, not very dark,
and who was imprudent enough not to conceal himself. They extorted
merciless contributions from him. The Moors, aware of this danger,
are accustomed to conceal themselves in the canoes, and only quit
their hiding-place during the night.
The negroes only have the privilege of remaining on deck; they
are looked upon as an inferior class, who have not much to give,
and are merely the servants of the Moorish merchant.
Wishing to see without being seen, I made several holes in
the matting that covered that part of the canoe in which I was
concealed. In this place the heat was so excessive, that it gave
me a violent head-ache. The Moorish merchants of Timbuctoo have no
authority over these robbers: not one of them would have ventured
among the Soorgoos to claim the six canoes which were so long
detained. If they had, they would have been sure of being laid
under contribution themselves; yet, they frequently make presents
to the Soorgoos.
Each flotilla that navigates the river has a chief called the
_amiroo_, and it is he who determines the periods for halting and
starting; he is always the oldest man among the crews; it is his
business to settle the amount of the contributions with the Soorgoos:
though he has some influence over them, yet he can do nothing in
behalf of the Moors, and if the Soorgoos see one on board his
canoe, they become refractory, and often proceed to the utmost
extremities to obtain what they want. “If you were not worth
a single cowrie,” said the negroes of our canoe to me, “they
would declare that you were very rich, and you would be obliged to
give them something before they would allow us to proceed.”
The river, after flowing three or four miles to the north, turns
to the east, and then to the N. E.; its width still continuing the
same, and its banks being uniformly low and barren.
At eight in the evening we stopped before the little village of Cora,
which, perhaps, contains two hundred inhabitants. Here we had another
visit from the Soorgoos. They immediately went on board the canoe
of the chief of the flotilla, to demand the contributions. Each
canoe was ordered to put ashore a bag of millet for their supper,
and the order was obeyed without hesitation. I was informed that
the chief had engaged to pay at Cabra the exactions for allowing us
to pass; which exactions consisted of millet, rice, honey, butter,
manufactured stuffs, and preserved articles.
During the whole of the evening lightning flashed from the east. The
heat was oppressive, and we had no rain.
On the 16th of April, we were detained at Cora until ten in
the morning; the negro inhabitants of this village came to sell
us milk, for which we gave them millet in exchange; they often
want provisions, though they cultivate a great deal of rice; but
they are continually robbed and harassed by the Soorgoos, who
make these poor creatures supply them with food. At ten in the
morning we stood to the N. E. There were some Soorgoos on board
the canoes, and others were following us on horseback along the
seashore. About one in the afternoon we lay to near some trees and
shrubs, and collected a little fire-wood. At two we continued our
course. At the point we reached at sun-set the river turned to the
north, and was very wide and deep. The sailors now used their oars
instead of their poles. At eight in the evening we halted before a
camp of the Soorgoo. The discussions which arose with these people
occasioned considerable delay, and were a source of great annoyance,
especially to me, who was shut up in my hiding-place, suffocated
with heat, and only able to observe what was going on through the
holes which I had made in the mats of my prison. We were continually
harassed by troops of these banditti: some were in small canoes,
others mounted on fine horses, gallopping along the shore, and by
the most horrid yells instigating their companions in the canoes
to board us. This tumult was insufferable. We did not entirely get
rid of our tormentors until our arrival at Cabra. Every evening our
canoes were obliged to give them rice and millet for their supper,
in return for which they presented the chief of the flotilla with a
little bull, which was killed and distributed among the masters of
the different canoes. The reports of the muskets which the negroes
fired before the camp, frightened the horses of those Soorgoos who
had ridden from the interior for the purpose of sharing the spoil.
On the 17th of April, at six in the morning, the flotilla stood to
the north. We had not proceeded above four or five miles, when we
were obliged to stop and wait for one of the great canoes which had
sprung a leak, and was in momentary danger of sinking; the sailors
on board set about repairing it; they plunged into the water with
great agility and put oakum into the seams along the keel. About
three in the afternoon all was put to rights, and we again pursued
our course. The river was very wide and deep, and its banks were
naked and marshy; it took a little turn to the east, and afterwards
to the north: in every direction nothing was visible but marshes,
without trees of any kind. At sun-set the new moon was saluted by
several discharges of musketry, which so terrified the Soorgoos,
that they hastened ashore, and I heard some of them exclaim in
their little canoes, “God preserve us from gunpowder!” The only
arms used by these people, are lances and poniards. About seven
o’clock we passed Caratoo, a little village on the right bank,
and about nine, we stopped at an uninhabited place.
At five in the morning, of the 18th of April, we continued our
voyage. The river turned eastward, and at seven o’clock we found
its course changing to N. E.; it then became rather narrow, the
banks being all along very low and bare. The immense marshes on
both banks were covered with cattle belonging to the Soorgoos. These
herds as I have already observed, are their chief property.
At eight in the morning we stopped to say the prayer of the salam,
it being the last day of the Ramadan, which the Mandingoes call
_Sali_. We were within sight of Cabra, and the negroes testified
their joy on perceiving the date trees of the village. They put
on their finest dress, assembled in a large plain, and piously
prostrated themselves in adoration of their God. I remained in the
canoe, and observed them through the holes that I had made in the
matting of my prison, where the heat was suffocating. I congratulated
myself that I was not required to join in these religious ceremonies,
and secretly offered up a prayer that my enterprise might be favoured
by Heaven. Their devotions being ended, the negroes went to dinner,
and good cheer compensated for their past abstinence, which, however,
had not been very rigorously observed. An easterly wind obliged us
to pass some part of the day at this spot.
About four in the afternoon it became somewhat calm, and preparations
were made for pursuing our voyage; but the Soorgoos opposed our
departure until they had received four sacks of millet from each
boat, independently of the duties we should be obliged to pay them
on arriving at Cabra. This exaction on their part led to a long
discussion: all the masters of canoes gathered round the chief
of the flotilla, attended by the chiefs of the Soorgoos, and each
party defended their own interests and those of their employers with
considerable warmth. The Soorgoos were not inclined to abate their
demands; but, by dint of entreaty and resistance, the contributions
were reduced to one-half the amount which had been at first demanded.
About nine in the evening the canoes received orders to send on shore
two sacks of millet; which was done without delay. These sacks were
of the height of a man, and as wide as the sacks commonly used in
France. I suppose they might contain nearly two hundred pounds of
grain. Never did any day appear to me so long and tedious as this. I
was almost within sight of Timbuctoo, and durst not shew my face:
I was obliged to hide myself the whole day; and, if at any time
the Soorgoos came on board, the crew obliged me to muffle myself
up in a large woollen wrapper, and to pretend to sleep. At night
I left my prison, for then the Soorgoos could not distinguish my
complexion from that of the negroes, and I breathed the pure air
until day-break.
On the 19th of April, at five in the morning, we stood to N. E.,
and at sun-rise passed a large branch of the river, which flows for
a short space to W. S .W. About seven o’clock we found ourselves
near a camp of Tooariks, the aspect of which was most miserable. The
tents which the Moors inhabit on the right bank of the Senegal
are palaces in comparison with the dwellings of these savages:
a few stakes, three or four feet high, supporting a covering of
untanned bulls’ hides, and encircled by mats, in the form of a
palisade, compose the abode of the chief, as well as of his meanest
sujects. The interior of these habitations appeared to correspond
perfectly with their exterior.
As we were very near the shore, I could observe a woman who had
the clear copper complexion of the Moorish females, whom she still
further resembled in dress: she was enormously fat, and was sitting
on a sheep-skin spread on the ground; she was doubtless amusing
herself by looking at the vessels as they passed. During my travels
among the Braknas I never saw a woman who had attained such a degree
of corpulency, though that quality constitutes the principal charm
of female beauty among these people. This Tooarik Venus must have
required four slaves at least to assist her in walking. The river now
turned a little to the east. After having passed the camp, we came to
a large island, off which we halted till eight o’clock, having to
wait for some boats, which could not proceed as fast as ours. This
island is very flat and sandy, but I observed some specimens of
the mimosa, _balanitis ægyptiaca_, and other stunted shrubs.
About nine o’clock we again put off, and at ten arrived at a place
where the river separates into two branches: the principal of these
might be three-quarters of a mile broad, running gently E. S. E.;
the direction of the other is E. by N.; it is deep, and its breadth
is from thirty-five to forty paces.
About one o’clock P. M. we arrived at the port of Cabra, and I was
informed that I might quit my prison, the Soorgoos having remained
behind; I speedily went on deck, whence I could see nothing around
me but flooded morasses covered with aquatic birds. This arm of
the river is very narrow, and the current stronger than in the
large arm. I think it not unlikely that at a little distance it
joins the Dhioliba, for in this place the branch inclines to the
east. If this is the case, the river forms a large marshy island,
which must be flooded during the inundations.
Across these immense marshes is discovered the village or little
town of Cabra, situated on a small hill, which protects it from
inundation. I was told that in the rainy season these marshes are
covered with water to the depth of ten feet, which appeared to me
a surprising depth for so vast a space, and that at those periods
large vessels cast anchor before Cabra. A little canal leads to
this village; but small boats only can enter the port. If the canal
were cleared of the grass and nenuphars which choke the passage,
vessels of twenty-five tons burthen might go up it in all seasons;
but such a task would be too toilsome for the negroes.
I embarked on board a small canoe, in company with the Moors from
Adrar, to proceed to Cabra. The negro slaves hauled the canoe along
by a rope, as the pole would not have been sufficient to move it. We
met several small canoes which had been dispatched for the purpose of
conveying to the town the most valuable commodities brought by the
vessels from Jenné. About three in the afternoon we reached Cabra,
which is situated three miles to the north of the great port. On
entering it I observed a number of straw huts like those of the
Foulahs, which were inhabited by trading slaves. Near their huts
was a great quantity of the fruit of the nenuphar, which constitutes
part of the food of the slaves and poorer classes.
I observed in the streets a great concourse of people and merchants;
some walking idly about, others endeavouring to dispose of their
goods, consisting of fish, milk, colat-nuts, pistachios, &c. The
town of Cabra is narrow, and extends east and west; the houses are
built of earth with terraced roofs, and have only a ground-floor; few
of them are well built, being chiefly cabins, for the richer class
of people prefer living at Timbuctoo, the centre of commerce. The
inhabitants of Cabra, about a thousand or twelve hundred in number,
are all employed, either in landing the various merchandise brought
from Jenné, or in conveying it to Timbuctoo. For this purpose
they make use of asses and camels. The slaves do not carry loads
on their heads; this would be a bad speculation for their masters,
for the poor creatures would soon be worn out, as the road leading to
the town consists of quicksand which renders walking very difficult.
At Cabra a market is daily held for the sale of all sorts of
merchandise from Soudan. The town contains a little mosque,
surrounded by a tower or minaret. To the west of the town there are
some specimens of the _balanitis ægyptiaca_, and small gardens of
tobacco; this latter plant, however, does not thrive, and seldom
grows higher than six or seven inches. On the east side there are
some date-trees, which are visible from a distance.
The almost constant inundation of the marshes, in the neighbourhood
of Cabra prevents the inhabitants from cultivating rice; and the
sandy soil on the north is unfit for growing millet. The Moors from
Adrar, in whose boat I had come from the great port, having unloaded
the canoe, placed their goods in a store-house, until they should be
ready to convey them to the city. The inhabitants of Cabra let their
magazines to merchants, who wish to deposit their goods in the town;
and they also let out asses for carrying loads to Timbuctoo.
I went out to take a view of the interior of the village. The
streets are narrow, but neat. I saw several female traders, and
from one of them I bought a little milk and a loaf of wheaten flour,
which cost me twenty cowries. I made a hearty breakfast, for I had
not tasted any thing all day. I had not cause to think much of the
honesty of the woman from whom I made the purchase, for she wanted
to make me pay twice. I was foolish enough to pay her beforehand;
it is the custom in this country to lay the value of what is bought
on the basket in which the goods lie, and the money is not removed
until the article is in the hands of the purchaser. This precaution
does not say much for the honesty of either buyers or sellers.
I saw in the port a number of large canoes undergoing repair.
The owners are accustomed, as soon as the boats are unladen, to
draw them on shore, where they are supported on large round blocks
of wood, which keep them a little elevated from the ground. Were
it not for this prudent practice, the cords with which the planks
are fastened together would very quickly rot. The little port of
Cabra extends east and west for the space of half a mile, being
about sixty paces broad. It would be a very useful place, were it
kept in better order; but it is very dirty and full of mud. Numbers
of men and women are always ready in the port to load and unload
the vessels. This was the day for celebrating the conclusion of the
Ramadan. The inhabitants were dancing and indulging in their simple
demonstrations of joy. They were all decently clothed. I asked a
female slave, who was sitting before her hut, for some water to
drink. She immediately rose, and, washing a wooden bowl, brought
me some water in it, which she presented to me with great civility.
The Soorgoos, or Tooariks, receive at Cabra the duties which they
levy on vessels. They roam about the village, and behave in the
most arbitrary way, making the inhabitants give them provisions
and other property—in fact, seizing whatever they can lay their
hands on. The inhabitants of Cabra took no notice of me. The Moors
of Adrar invited me to partake of their supper of rice, which
I found very palatable; and I passed the night in the open air,
sleeping on a mat beside my companions. I was a little tormented
by the mosquitoes, which, however, are not so common on the banks
of the Dhioliba as on those of the Senegal.
On the 25th of April, the merchants of Timbuctoo came to Cabra,
to land their goods. They were mounted on excellent horses.
Sidi-Abdallahi Chebir, to whom I had been directed by the sherif of
Jenné, did not come; but he sent his slaves. They were all well
clothed, and armed with a common kind of muskets, made at Tunis.
Sidi-Mbark, the owner of the canoe which had conveyed me to Cabra,
had arrived at Timbuctoo several days before us, and had mentioned
me to Sidi-Abdallah Chebir. He, consulting only the duty imposed
on him by his religion (for he had not yet received the letter of
his correspondent in my behalf) ordered his slaves to congratulate
me on my happy arrival, and to invite me to visit him. This message
led me to augur a good reception from him.