CHAPTER II.

SKINNING, PRESERVING, AND MOUNTING BIRDS.

SKINNING.

Immediately after a bird is killed, the throat and nostrils should be

stuffed with tow, cotton, or fine rags, and a small quantity wound

round the bill to prevent the blood from staining the plumage; but

should any get on the feathers, notwithstanding this precaution, the

sooner it is removed the better, which should be effected by a sponge

which has been merely moistened in water. Too much dispatch cannot be

used in removing the skin, if the bird is shot in a warm climate; but,

in temperate regions, the bird may be allowed to cool.

[Illustration: _Fig. 2._

_Manner of holding the hands in skinning a bird._]

In proceeding to skin the bird, it should be laid on its back, and the

feathers of the breast separated to the right and left, when a broad

interval will be discovered, reaching from the top to the bottom of the

breast-bone. (See fig. 2.)

(See fig. 2 for the manner of separating the feathers and using the

scalpel.) A sharp pen-knife, or scalpel, must be inserted at the point

of the bone, and cut the outer skin from thence to the vent, taking

care not to penetrate so deep as the flesh, or upon the inner skin

which covers the intestines. The skin will then easily be separated

from the flesh; in larger specimens, by the fingers, or, in smaller

ones, by passing a small blunt instrument betwixt the skin and body,

such as the end of the scalpel-handle; with this you may reach the

back. The thighs should now be pressed inward, as in the common method

of skinning a rabbit, and the skin turned back, so far as to enable

you to separate the legs from the body, at the knee-joint. The skin is

then pulled downwards, as low as the rump, which is cut close by the

insertion of the tail, as shown in fig. 2, but in such a manner as not

to injure its feathers. The skin is now drawn upwards the length of the

wings, the bones of which must also be cut at the shoulder-joints; it

is then pulled up, till all the back part of the skull is laid bare,

when the vertebræ of the neck are separated from the head, and the

whole body is now separated from the skin. You next proceed to remove

the brain, through the opening of the skull, for which purpose it may

be enlarged by a hollow chisel, or other iron instrument. The eyes

must then be taken out, by breaking the slender bones which separate

the orbits from the top of the mouth, in which you may be assisted by

pressing the eyes gently inwards, so as not to break them. In skinning

the neck great care must be taken not to enlarge the opening of the

ears, and not to injure the eyelids. The whole of the flesh is next to

be removed from the under mandible.

[Illustration: _Fig. 3._

_Bird suspended for skinning._]

Several species will not admit of the skin being thus pulled over

their heads, from the smallness of their necks; some Woodpeckers,

Ducks, etc., fall under this description; in which case a longitudinal

incision is made under the throat, so as to admit of the head being

turned out, which must be neatly sewed up before stuffing. The flesh

from the head, wings, legs, and rump, must then be carefully removed

with a knife, and the cavities of the skull filled with cotton or tow.

The whole inside of the skin, head, etc., must be well rubbed with

arsenical soap, or preserving powder, or spirit of turpentine, or the

solution of corrosive sublimate. When it is wished to stuff the bird,

it may now be immediately done, as it will easily dry, if in a warm

climate; but in low, damp countries, it will require artificial heat to

do it effectually.

When the skins are merely wished preserved, the bones of the legs and

wings should be wrapped round with cotton or tow, so as to supply the

place of the flesh; the skin is then inverted and hung up to dry, after

using the arsenical soap, as above directed; before doing which, in

larger birds, a thread or small string may be drawn through the rump,

and passed up to the inside of the neck, and drawn through the bill, to

prevent the head from stretching too much by its own weight. In larger

specimens, where cotton or tow is not easily to be met with, well-dried

hay may be used.

The incision for removing the skin is frequently made under the wings.

This may be done with marine birds to advantage. The Penguins and

Divers may be skinned by making the incision in the back.

The tongue should either be kept in the mouth, or sent home separately

with the birds.

The greatest care must be taken to prevent the fat and oily matter, so

common to sea-birds, from getting on the feathers; pounded chalk will

be found an excellent absorbent for applying to these birds.

In sending home specimens of birds, they should be each wrapped in

paper, and closely packed in a box; and camphor, preserving powder,

and strong aromatics, strewn amongst them, to prevent them from being

attacked by insects; and they ought to be kept in a very dry part of

the vessel.

It is of the utmost consequence to know the color of the eyes and legs

of birds, and these things should be carefully noted the moment they

are killed; and it should also be mentioned whether they are male

or female; such a memorandum ought to be attached to the birds by a

ticket. The season of the year in which the bird is killed, must also

be mentioned. It is also of much consequence to have good skeletons,

and, for this purpose, the carcasses may be sent home in a barrel,

either in spirits or a strong solution of salt and water.

Mr. Salt, while in Abyssinia, packed his bird-skins between sheets of

paper, and in the same manner as a _hortus siccus_, or herbarium, and

they reached England in perfect safety, and made excellent specimens

when set up. In warm climates, the boxes should be well closed, and the

seams filled with warm pitch on the outside, to prevent the intrusion

of insects; and the inside should be supplied with camphor, musk, or

tobacco-dust, which will prevent the attacks of the smaller insects.

Till practice has given facility to the operator, it will assist in

keeping the feathers clean, if, as he opens the skin of the breast, he

pins pieces of paper or linen cloth on the outside, but after a few

trials this will be unnecessary.

Some of the marine fowls are so fat that there is much trouble in

separating it from the skin, and in warm weather, great attention

will be required to prevent it from running on the feathers. As much

as possible should be scraped off, in the first place, with a blunt

table-knife or palate-knife, and a quantity of powdered chalk applied,

to absorb what remains, which, when saturated with the oily matter,

should be scraped off and a fresh supply used, after which a much

larger proportion of the preserving powder should be applied than in

other birds which are not fat.

When shooting on the sea-coast, if the ornithologist is not provided

with these requisites for absorbing the oil, which flows quickly from

any wounds of the skin, he will find dry sand a tolerable substitute.

If, however, after every precaution, the oily matter should get on

the feathers, the sooner it is removed the better, as, in birds where

the plumage is white, if it is allowed to become hardened it will

produce a very disagreeable appearance; and, besides, render that

part particularly liable to the attack of insects. There are several

effectual methods of removing the greasy stains; the first, safest,

and best, is, by taking a quantity of diluted ox-gall--or, where it

cannot be commanded, sheep's-gall, or that of any other animal--mix it

with about double the quantity of water, and apply it with a sponge to

the place which the fatty matter has touched, when it will immediately

remove it. The next is by using a solution of salt of tartar, or

potash, or soda. This must be made very weak, not exceeding half a

tea-spoonful to a cup of water, which will have the same effect as

the gall. Whichever of these are used, the place must be immediately

afterwards washed in pure water, so as to leave none of the gall or

alkaline substance remaining. The gall has a gummy tendency, and will

glue together the fibers of the feathers, and, besides, it has a great

attraction for moisture, and, in humid weather, will become damp, and

therefore produce mold; the other alkaline substances must also be

used with much caution and quickness, because they have the power of

changing the colors of the plumage, so that they are most useful in

white plumage, and therefore should only be used on colored feathers,

where gall cannot be procured.

One general observation applies to the preservation of all animal

skins, which is, they must be made perfectly dry, so that the sooner

they are exposed to a free current of air the better; and unless they

are speedily and thoroughly dried, the skin will become putrid and

rotten, and the hair or feathers will consequently fall off. If a skin

is properly dried, soon after it is killed, it will keep a considerable

time without any preservative whatever, only it will be the more liable

to be attacked by insects afterwards.

The following excellent general directions for skinning are given by

Mr. Waterton:--"While dissecting, it will be of use to keep in mind,

that in taking off the skin from the body, by means of your fingers and

little knife, you must try to shove it, in lieu of pulling it, lest you

stretch it.

"That you must press as lightly as possible on the bird, and every now

and then take a view of it, to see that the feathers, etc., are all

right.

"That when you come to the head, you must take care that the body of

the skin rest on your knee, for if you allow it to dangle from your

hand, its own weight will stretch it too much.

"That, throughout the whole operation, as fast as you detach the skin

from the body, you must put cotton immediately betwixt the body and

it, and this will effectually prevent any fat, blood, or moisture from

coming in contact with the plumage.

"As you can seldom get a bird without shooting it, a line or two on

this head will be necessary. If the bird be still alive, press it

hard, with your finger and thumb, just behind the wings, and it will

soon expire. Carry it by the legs, and then, the body being reversed,

the blood cannot escape down the plumage and through the shot-holes.

As blood will have often issued out, before you have laid hold of the

bird, find out the shot-holes, by dividing the feathers with your

fingers, and blowing on them; and then, with your pen-knife, or the

leaf of a tree, carefully remove the clotted blood, and put a little

cotton on the hole. If, after all, the plumage has not escaped the

marks of blood, or if it has imbibed slime from the ground, wash the

part in water, without soap, and keep gently agitating the feathers

with your fingers, till they are quite dry. Were you to wash them,

and leave them to dry by themselves, they would have a very mean and

shriveled appearance.

"In the act of skinning a bird, you must either have it upon a table,

or upon your knee; probably you will prefer your knee, because,

when you cross one knee over the other, and have the bird upon the

uppermost, you can raise it to your eye, or lower it at pleasure, by

means of the foot on the ground; and then your knee will always move

in unison with your body, by which much stooping will be avoided, and

lassitude prevented."

STUFFING BIRDS.

The first thing to be done in stuffing is to replace the skull, after

it has been well anointed with the arsenical soap, and washed with the

solution of corrosive sublimate inside. The thread with which the beak

is tied is taken hold of by the left hand, and the head is repassed

into the neck with the forefinger of the right hand, while the thread

is pulled on the opposite side; and we are careful that the feathers,

at the margin of the opening, do not enter with the edges of the skin.

The bird is now laid on the table with the head turned towards the left

hand, and the legs and wings adjusted to their proper situation. A flat

piece of lead, about a pound in weight, is laid on the tail, while the

feathers of the margins of the opening are raised by the forefinger and

thumb of the left hand, to prevent their being soiled. The inside of

the neck is now coated with the arsenical soap; flax is stuffed into

it, but not too tightly. The back and rump are anointed, and the body

should then be stuffed with tow, to about a third of the thickness

required, so that the wire may have a sort of cushion to rest on.

Four pieces of wire are then prepared, of the thickness proportionate

to the size of the bird to be stuffed. The center-piece should be

somewhat longer than the body of the bird. At about a fourth of its

length a small ring is formed, by the assistance of the round pincers

or pliers, and the other end is pointed with a file. This wire is

oiled, and introduced across the skull, and passed into the neck

through the center of the flax or tow with which it is stuffed--the

ring being situated toward the anterior part of the skull, for the

purpose of receiving the points of each of the wires that are passed

through the feet and thighs.

[Illustration: _Fig. 4 to 7._

_4, the oval and head-wires of a bird separated; 5, the tail-bearers

separated; 6, a leg-wire separated; 7, the body-wire, the head-wire,

the tail-bearer and legs connected._]

The following is the mode in which this performance is effected: A hole

is bored with a brass awl, the caliber of the wire which it is intended

to use. The wire, which is to continue in the leg, is passed across

the knee, and brought out interiorly, and, placing it into the ring

above mentioned, the same operation is performed on the other side. The

extremities of the wires of the legs, and the end of the central wire

beyond the ring, are all twisted together with flat pincers, and then

bent towards the tail. The tail-bearer is next formed, which consists

of the fourth piece of wire, with which an oval is formed, by twisting

the two ends two or three turns, so that they may form a kind of fork,

with the oval nearly the length of the body of the bird; the two points

of the fork must be sharpened with a file, and near enough to enable

them to enter the rump, through which they must pass, and their points

will be concealed by the rectrices, or large straight tail-feathers,

while the oval is within the body of the bird. If the bird is large,

the tail-bearer must be firmly attached to the interior wires, by

twisting a small wire several times round both. But unless the bird be

large, it may remain quite free.

All the parts of the skin at which we can come must be thoroughly

rubbed with preserving soap, the rump in particular, which should,

besides, be soaked with the solution of corrosive sublimate. The

stuffing is now proceeded with, by inserting chopped flax or tow, till

it has attained its proper dimensions. The skin is brought together and

sewed up, while we take the greatest care to separate the feathers at

every stitch.

The orbits of the eyes are next finished, by inserting, with small

forceps and a short stuffing stick, a small quantity of chopped cotton,

while attention is paid to round the eyelids properly. The glass eyes

are now inserted, taking care to place them properly under the eyelids.

But, before fixing the eye, a little calcareous cement must be used, to

prevent them from coming out. If any part of the nictitating membrane

is visible below, it must be pushed up with the steel point.

The stuffing of the bird being now completed, the next thing is to

place it either on a branch, or, if a bird which does not sit on trees,

on a piece of plank; whichever of these it is, two holes are bored

for the reception of the wires, which have been allowed to protrude

from the soles of the feet, for fixing the bird (See fig 8.) These,

of course, are pierced in such situations as are necessary for the

attitude or position of the legs. The wires are put through these

holes, and twisted so as to secure the bird in its position. The

attitude of the bird will, of course, depend upon the fancy and taste

of the operator, and ought to be in conformity with the manners of the

birds in a living state.

The wire frame-work, above described, is the most simple of any in its

construction, and is better adapted for small than large birds. Indeed,

it will hardly suit those of the larger species. The following is

another method of constructing the frame-work, which may be used either

in large or small birds:--

Like the former, it is constructed of four pieces of wire. The

center-piece should be double the length of the bird; it is bent at

a third of its length of an oval form, and twisted two turns, the

shortest end being passed into the oval, and then raised against the

longer end, so as to produce a ring at the end, outside of the oval,

large enough to admit the two wires which pass from the feet to the

inside of the bird. It is now twisted a second time, and firmly united

to the longer end, which ought to be straight, with a sharp point,

effected by means of a file. As before directed, it is rubbed with

oil, and forced through the stuffing of the neck. It ought to be so

constructed, by measurement, that the oval part of the wire shall be

in the center of the body inside. The wires of the feet and legs, as

before directed, ought to be straight and pointed, and passed through

the soles of the feet as before. When the point has penetrated, the

other end of the wire may be bent, so that by means of it we may

be able to assist in forcing up the remainder of the wire. The two

internal ends of the foot-wires are twisted together, and curved

within, so as to pass through the small circle or ring of the middle

branch above the oval, to each side of which they are now attached with

a piece of small string.

The tail-bearer is constructed on the same principles, and attached

in the same manner, as before described, and the latter apparatus is

introduced after the neck and back are finished in the stuffing.

This practice of introducing the neck-wire, after the neck is stuffed,

was first adopted at the Jardin des Plantes at Paris, and is now

invariably adopted in that establishment in preference to introducing

it before the neck is stuffed. The neck of a swan or other long-necked

and large birds, are even done so. It is unquestionably the best plan

which has hitherto been discovered, as it preserves the cylindrical

shape of the neck.

MR. BULLOCK'S METHOD OF STUFFING BIRDS.

Mr. Bullock, of the London Museum, Egyptian Hall, had another method

of arranging the wires, which, after what we have already said, will

be easily comprehended by a reference to figure 8, where we have

given a figure of his mode. After the skin is taken off and prepared,

different-sized, nealed, iron wires are procured, according to the

size of the bird they are to support. The skin is laid on its back

without stretching it; cut two pieces of wire, the one rather longer

than the bird and the other shorter, so as not to reach to the head of

the bird; twist them together, sharpen the ends of the longer by means

of a file, and pass one end through the rump and the other through the

crown of the head, near the base of the bill. Care must be taken not to

extend the neck beyond its ordinary length--a very common fault in most

preservers. Lay a little tow along the back of the skin for the wire

to rest on, then take two other pieces of strong wire and file them to

a point at one end; these are passed through the soles of the feet and

up the center of the leg-bone, or tarsus. When within the body, they

are to be fastened to the first wires by twisting them together, which,

when accomplished, may be supposed to represent the backbone. The wire

should be left two or three inches out of the soles of the feet, to

fasten them in a standing position, as before directed. Two smaller

wires are then passed through the wings, as in the legs, and afterwards

fastened to the back-wires a little higher up than the leg-wires,

taking care that no part of the skin is to be extended beyond its

natural position.

[Illustration: _Fig. 8._

_Mr. Bullock's method of inserting the wires in setting up a bird._]

A NEW AND EASIER METHOD OF BIRD SKINNING AND STUFFING.

A fair specimen being obtained, take common cotton wadding, and with

an ordinary paint-brush stick plug the throat, nostrils, and, in large

birds, the ears, with it, so that when the skin is turned no juices

may flow and spoil the feathers; you must then provide yourself with

the following articles: A knife of this kind is very common; a pair

of cutting pliers, a pair of strong scissors, of a moderate size; a

button-hook, a marrow-spoon, and a hand-vise. With these, a needle and

thread and a sharpener of some kind, to give your knife an occasional

touch, you are prepared, so far as implements go. Then provide yourself

with annealed iron wire of various sizes; some you may buy ready

for use, some not; but you can anneal it yourself by making it red

hot in the fire, and letting it cool in the air. Common hemp is the

next article, cotton wadding, pounded whitening, and pounded alum,

or chloride of lime; as to the poisons which are used, they will be

spoken of by and by. You should also have a common brad-awl or two, and

some pieces of quarter-inch pine whereon to stand the specimens when

preserved, if to be placed as walking on a plane; if not, some small

pieces of twigs or small branches of trees should be kept ready for

use, of various sizes, according to the size of the bird; something

of the form of Fig. 9. Cedar, or common laurel cut in December, will

be found to answer best, but this must be regulated by fancy and the

requirements of the case; oak-boughs are sometimes of a good shape.

[Illustration: _Fig. 9._

_Branch for mounting a bird._]

The best time for preserving specimens is in spring, because then the

cock birds are in the best feather, and the weather is not too warm.

In mild weather three days is a good time to keep a bird, as then the

skin will part from the flesh easily. If a specimen has bled much over

the feathers, so as to damage them, wash them carefully but thoroughly

with warm water and a sponge, and immediately cover them with pounded

whitening, which will adhere to them. Dry it as it hangs upon them

slowly before the fire, and then triturating the hardened lumps gently

between the fingers, the feathers will come out almost as clean as

ever. To test whether the specimen is too decomposed to skin, try the

feathers about the auriculars, and just above the tail, and if they do

not move you may safely proceed.

Lay the bird on his back, and, parting the feathers from the insertion

of the neck to the tail, you will find in most birds a spare space. Cut

the skin the whole length of this, and, passing the finger under it on

either side, by laying hold of one leg and bending it forward, you will

be able to bring the bare knee through the opening you have made; and

with your scissors cut it through at the joint; pull the shank still

adhering to the leg till the skin is turned back as far as it will go:

denude the bone of flesh and sinew, wrap a piece of hemp round it,

steeped in a strong solution of the pounded alum, and then pull the leg

by the claw, by which means the skin will be brought again to its place.

[Illustration: _Fig. 10._]

After having served both legs alike, skin carefully round the back,

cutting off and leaving in the tail with that into which the feathers

grow, that is, the "Pope's nose." Serve the wing-bones the same as

the leg, cutting them off close to the body, and turn the skin inside

out down to the head. The back of the skull will then appear, and

you will now find it of advantage, as soon as you have got the legs

and tail free, to tie a piece of string round the body, and hang

it up as a butcher skins a sheep. Make in the back of the skull a

cut of the annexed form, with your knife, which you can turn back

like a trap-door, and with the marrow-spoon entirely clear out the

brains; A representing the neck, and B the skin turned back. Having

done this, wash the interior of the skull thoroughly with the alum,

and fill it with cotton wadding. The next operation requires care

and practice--namely, to get out the eyes. This is done by cutting

cautiously until the lids appear, being careful not to cut the eye

itself, and you can then, with a forceps, which you will likewise find

useful, pull each from its socket; wipe the orifice carefully, wash it

with the alum solution, and fill it with cotton wadding. Cut off the

neck close to the skull, wash the stump, and the whole of the interior

of the skin with the alum, and the _skinning_ is done.

[Illustration: _Fig. 11._

_Wire bent for inserting._]

Now comes the stuffing. The ordinary mode used by bird-preservers

is a simple one, and answers very well; there is a French method,

however, which has its advantages, and will be adverted to hereafter.

Take a piece of the wire suitable to the size of the bird--that is,

as large as the legs will carry--and bend it into the following form,

_a_ representing the neck, _b_, the body, and _c_, the junction of the

tail, allowing sufficient length of the neck for the wire to pass some

distance beyond the head, and being sharpened at each end, which may

be done by obliquely cutting it with the pliers. Wind upon this wire

hemp to the side of the bird's body, which you should have lying by you

to judge from, and it will present something of this appearance. You

can shape it with the hand, but be careful not to make it the least

_too large_; and, after you have finished it to your satisfaction, you

may singe it, as the poulterer would singe a fowl, which will make all

neat; but be particular to wind the hemp very tight. Then take the

skin, lay it on the table on its back, and pass the wire at the head

into the marrow where the neck is cut off, through above the roof of

the mouth, and out at one nostril, and draw it up close to the skull;

turn the skin back, and draw it down over the hemp body, and pass the

wire spike, protruding at the lower end, through the flesh upon which

the tail grows, about the center, and rather below than above. The skin

may now be adjusted to the hemp body, and sewn up, beginning from the

top of the breast, and being particularly careful always to take the

stitch from _inside_, otherwise you will draw in the feathers at every

pull. At first sew it very loose, and then, with the button-hook, draw

it together by degrees.

[Illustration: _Fig. 12._

_The hemp wound on the wire._]

With the pliers cut two lengths of wire, long enough to pass up the

legs and into the neck, and leave something over to fasten the bird by

to the board or spray upon which it is to be placed. The next operation

requires some address and great practice, namely, the passing the wire

up the legs. This is done by forcing it into the center of the foot,

and up the back of the legs, into the hemp body, through it obliquely,

and into the neck, until it is pretty firm.

[Illustration: _Fig. 13._]

In doing this, you must remember the ordinary position of a bird when

alive, and, therefore, instead of passing the wire the whole way

_within_ the skin of the leg, when you get to the part where you have

cut off the bone--that is, the knee-joint--pass it through the skin

to the outside, where the knee would come naturally in the attitude

of standing or perching--it makes little difference which. This is

essential, because, if the wire be passed the whole way _inside_ the

skin, it produces a wrong placing of the legs. Fig 13 will illustrate

this, _a_ representing the line in which the wire should run. The bird

is now stuffed, and you may at once place it upon a spray or board,

as the case may be. In placing a bird upon a spray, the first joint

should be bent almost on a level with the foot; and in placing a bird

on a board, one leg should be placed somewhat behind the other. If the

wings are intended to be closed, as is usually the case, bring them

into their place, which may be done by putting the fingers under them,

and pressing them together over the back; you may then pass a needle,

or large pin, of which you should have a good supply by you, through

the thick part of the upper wing into the body, and so by the lower

wing, and if you allow these to protrude, you may fasten to one of them

a piece of thread, and wind it carefully and lightly round the body,

which will keep the feathers in their places, and this thread should be

kept on for a fortnight or three weeks, until the bird is dry. The tail

should be kept in its place, also, for the same time, by a piece of

thin wire bent over it, thus:

[Illustration: _Fig. 14._]

The only thing now to do is to put in the eyes. The color, of course,

depends on the bird, and these you may buy at any fishing-tackle store.

If you do not use eyes too large, you will find little difficulty;

the juice of the lids will act as a sufficient cement. As to the

mounting, I shall say nothing about that now, but shall only advert

shortly to a French method of preserving which is more difficult, but

has the advantage of superior firmness. It is this: Measuring from the

insertion of the neck to the tail, make a wire frame of this form, the

measure taken being from A. to B.

[Illustration: _Fig. 15._

_Wire Used in French Method._]

Upon this end wind hemp for the neck only, and place in the skin in

the same way as before directed, only that, instead of one wire being

passed through that in which the tail grows, it is a fork that is

passed through it. Having formed this frame, fit on to it two legs,

thus: and after the frame itself is in the skin, pass these from the

_inside_ down each leg, instead of from the outside, and fasten them

on to the frame with the pliers, by twisting the ends, B B, round the

frame, C, in the first figure.

[Illustration: _Fig. 16._

_The Wire Legs._]

This will make all firm, and you can then fill the body with cut

hemp and sew up. One word as to the other preparations used by bird

preservers. These are either corrosive sublimate or regulus of arsenic,

which is yellow and of a consistence like butter. As I have said

before, in cold weather, when there are no flies about, alum will do

perfectly well; in warm weather either of the two others may be used. I

should prefer the former--corrosive sublimate--as the other is "messy,"

and the chief object is to dry up anything which can be attacked by

flesh-seeking insects. When you have finished your bird you can lay

the feathers with a large needle--it is as well to have one fixed in

a handle and kept for this purpose--and, tying the two mandibles of

the bill together with a piece of thread until the whole specimen has

hardened and dried, the work is done.

How to stuff birds and animals · 第 2 / 7 章