CHAPTER XVIII

THE BOX TRAP.

This trap is put to various uses. The beginner usually has one or two

with which he traps for rabbits. In fact they are great for that for

the animal is not injured, which is often the case when shot or

caught by dogs. Rabbits caught in box traps are therefore the best

for eating.

The trapper who wants to secure fur-bearers alive to sell to parks,

menageries or to start a "fur ranch" usually uses the box trap.

The size for rabbits is about 30 inches long by 5 wide and 6 high.

The boards can be of any kind but pine, poplar, etc., being light is

much used. The boards need only be a half inch thick. To make a trap

you will need four pieces 30 inches long; two of these for the sides

should be six inches wide; the other two for top and bottom should be

5 inches. These pieces should be nailed on the top and bottom of the

sides. This will make the inside of the trap six inches high by four

wide. It is best to have your trap narrow so that the animal you are

trapping cannot turn in the trap.

In one end of the trap wires or small iron rods should be placed (see

illustration). These should be about an inch apart. In the other end

the door is constructed. This can be made out of wire also. The

bottom of door should strike about eight inches inside. It will be

seen that an animal pushing against the door, from the outside,

raises it, but once on the inside the more they push against it the

tighter it becomes.

[Illustration: THE BOX TRAP.]

The trap can be set at holes where game is known to be, or can be

placed where game frequents and baited. If bait is used place a

little prop under the door and place bait back in trap a foot or

more. Bait to use of course depending upon what you are trapping.

The trap described is about right size for the common rabbit and

mink. For skunk and opossum a trap a little larger will be required.

For mink and other animals that are gnawers the traps should be

visited daily for they may gnaw and escape. If impossible to visit

traps daily they should be lined with tin.

In many places these traps, with a door at each end, are used for

catching muskrat. They are set in their dens under water and either

tied or weighted down. The rats are caught either going in or

leaving.

In making these traps the beginner is apt to make them too wide--so

the animal can turn within. This is a mistake for it gives the game

more freedom and room to gnaw to liberty.

The animal simply goes in and is there until the trapper comes along

and removes the game. Skunk can be drowned when caught in this trap

without scenting if the trapper knows how to go about it.

The trap should be handled carefully. Take to water sufficiently deep

to cover the trap and slowly sink and then either weight the trap or

hold down until the animal is drowned.

The box trap is a humane trap if visited daily. They are rather

unhandy to carry about and few trappers want many, yet under certain

conditions they are very useful. They can be made during idle time.

For mink and other shy animals they should be handled as little as

possible. They should be made of old boards or at least avoid all

appearances of newness.

* * *

Some sections saplings to make deadfalls cannot be had and for the

benefit of such, a wooden trap, three feet long and six inches wide

and deep, is a good manner to take muskrat, writes a Western trapper.

The boards can be cut out of any old lumber. In each end is a wire

door, hung on hinges at the top. These doors rise at the slightest

push on the outside, but will not open from the inside. The trap is

sunk in the water at the entrance to the den and is fastened there. A

muskrat in entering or leaving the den is sure to enter the trap.

The animal, of course, could gnaw out, but will drown before it has

time to accomplish this. Several rats are often taken, where they are

numerous, in a night. Traps of this kind can be used to best

advantage in lakes and ponds or where the height of the stream does

not vary much. If they are set along creeks and rivers you want to

fasten them securely or take them up before heavy rains, as they are

almost sure to be washed away.

* * *

I see in a recent number where George Walker wanted some one to tell

through H-T-T how to make box trap to catch muskrat. Here is a good

way:

First take four boards 36 inches long, nail together leaving both

ends open. Next a small gate, consisting of a square piece of wood

supplied with a few stiff wires is then pivoted inside of each

opening so as to work freely and fall easily when raised. The bait is

fastened inside the center of the box. The animal in quest of the

bait finds an easy entrance, as the wires lift at slight pressure,

but the exit after the gate has closed is so difficult that escape is

almost beyond question. To insure further strength it is advisable to

connect the lower ends of the wires by a cross piece of fine wire

twisted about each. If you have good luck you can catch two and three

in this trap each night. Set in two or three inches of water where

muskrat frequents, or set in skunk dens.

Deadfalls and Snares A Book of Instruction for Trappers About These and Other Home-Made Traps · 第 18 / 28 章