PORTABLE TRAPS.
In describing a portable deadfall, an Indiana trapper writes as
follows: We took a piece of sawed stuff 2 x 4, say 5 feet long, then
another the same size and length. For upright pieces to hold the main
pieces so one would fall square on the other, we used sawed stuff 1 x
3, two pieces set straight up and down at each end, or about far
enough to leave the back end stick out three inches, and front end or
end where the triggers set, 6 inches.
Nail these 1 x 3 two on each end as directed above, nail to lower
piece 2 x 4 only, then at back end bore a hole through the two
uprights and also upper 2 x 4, or the piece that falls, put a bolt
through, or a wood pin if the hole in the 2 x 4 is larger than those
through the uprights; then you are ready to raise it up and let it
"drop" to see whether it works smoothly or not.
Better nail a block 2 x 4 between the tops of the uprights to keep
them from spreading apart, then it is ready all except the triggers
and string for them to run against. It is portable, you can pick it
up and move it anywhere, only a stake or two needed driven down on
each side. Where string is shown as tied to little bush should be a
small stake.
[Illustration: DEN SET DEADFALL.]
* * *
"SHEAR TRAP."
I send a drawing of a trap called the "Shear Trap," writes an Eastern
trapper. This is not a new trap, neither is it my own invention. I
have used this style and can recommend it to be O. K., cheap, easy
made, light to move, will last and will catch most any small animal.
This trap is made as follows: Take 4 strips of board 4 feet 4 inches
long, by 3 inches wide. Bore one inch hole two inches from end of all
four of them. Now make two rounds about 13 inches long and put two of
the boards on each side of the round. At the other end put the two
middle boards on the other round (see illustration). Make one other
round fifteen inches long, same size as the others. Put the two
outside boards on it, forming two separate frames at the other
end--so the two inside boards can turn on the round to which they are
coupled.
[Illustration: PORTABLE WOODEN TRAP.]
Take two strips three inches wide, two feet and six inches long. Bore
one inch hole two inches from the top end and put round broom stick
thru it seventeen inches long. Fasten all the rounds by wedges or
small wooden pins. Stand the two strips last mentioned on the outside
of the frame at the end they separate and make them fast so as to
stand perpendicular. For bait stick take lathe or one-half inch board
one inch wide. Bore hole as shown in cut (figure 6) cut notch (figure
2). For trigger any stick 18 inches long, 5/8 inch thick will do: tie
string 2 inches from end and tie other end at figure 1, pass the
short end under round from the outside (figure 3) and catch in notch
in bait lath (figure 2), the other end bait at figure 4. Put weight
at figure 5. Cover trap at figure 6 to keep animal from going in from
back up to figure 7. For bait I use fresh fish, muskrat, bird, etc.,
and scent with honey or blood.
* * *
THE BARREL TRAP.
I promised in my last letter to describe the barrel trap, says a
Northwestern trapper, which I use for capturing rats. Other trappers
may have used this trap for years, but I only mean this for the young
trappers who know nothing about this trap.
Take any kind of an old barrel made of hard wood (a salt barrel makes
a good one), and fix a board on one side of the top with a hinge. Let
one end of the barrel project out directly over the barrel to within
about 5 or 6 inches of the other side. Arrange it so that the end of
the board not over the barrel is a little the heaviest so when the
rat tilts down the end in the barrel it will come back to place
again.
Place a bit of parsnip apple, or celery near the end of the board
over the barrel so when the rat reaches his front feet over on the
board it will tilt down and let him in the barrel to stay. Bury the
barrel near a river or creek to within about 2 or 3 inches of top of
barrel, so there will be from 6 inches to 1 foot of water in the
barrel. If there is much water in the barrel the most of the rats
will be dead when you visit your traps. Several may be captured in
one night in this kind of a trap.
* * *
BLOCK TRAP.
Saw a small log in blocks from 4 to 6 inches long. Bore an inch hole
through the center. Take nails and drive them so that they form a
"muzzle" in one end and have the nails very sharp. Fasten your blocks
with a piece of wire and put it in the runway or on a log or anywhere
that a coon will see it, and nine out of ten will put his foot into
it. I bait with honey. I caught 75 or 80 coons this season with
"block" snares.
I put stoppers or false bottoms in one end of the block, piece of
corn cob or anything will do. Cut the foot off to get the animal out
of this snare.
[Illustration: THE BLOCK TRAP.]
The illustration shows a square block with the hole bored in the
side. This is done to better show how it should be done, although
when set, the hole should be up. Bait with a piece of fresh rabbit,
frog, or anything that coon are fond of.
Instead of the blocks the auger hole can be bored in a log or root of
a tree if a suitable one can be found where coon frequent.
* * *
THE "NOXEMALL" DEADFALL.
The best material is spruce, but if spruce is not to be had, hard
wood is better than soft. Follow directions closely; never use old,
dozy wood; good, sound, straight-grained material is the cheapest to
use. A good way to get your material is to go to the saw-mill, select
good straight-grained 2 x 4 studding, have them ripped lengthwise
again, making four strips out of the original 2 x 4, each strip being
two inches wide by one inch thick; then have them cut in the
lengths--two standards (A), 14 inches long; (B) two side pieces, 2
1/2 feet long; (C) two drop bars, 2 1/2 feet. Bore a hole in each
piece with a one inch bit, two inches from the end of the piece to
the center of the hole. (D) A piece of lath about 8 inches long, with
one end beveled off to fit in slot of E; tie a piece of small rope,
about a foot long, two inches from the other end. (E) A piece of
lath, 2 1/2 feet long, with a slot cut crosswise two inches from one
end and a piece of rope tied two inch from the other end, about a
foot long.
[Illustration: THE NOX-EM-ALL DEADFALL.]
If you get your material at the mill have four rounds (F) turned out
of oak or maple (must be hard wood), three of them being 12 inches
long, one being 8 inches long, 7/8 inch in diameter. They must be
some smaller than the hole, as they swell when wet.
Your trap is now ready to put together. Take one 12 inch round slip
on the side pieces B first, then the two standards A; next place a 12
inch round in the holes in the top of the standards. The front end of
the trap is done, except fastening the standards to the round and the
setting apparatus to the top round of standards. Next take the
remaining 12 inch round slip on the drop bars C first, then the side
pieces B outside; next place the short round G in the front end of
drop bar C.
You can drive nails thru the outside pieces and the round. Where
there are two pieces on a side on one round, fasten thru the outside
piece, always leaving the inside piece loose so that it will turn on
the round. A much better way, altho it is more work, is to bore a
hole thru the side piece and round and drive in a hard wood plug.
This is the best way, because if any part of the trap breaks you can
knock out the plug much easier than to pull out a nail. The holes
should be bored with a 1/4 inch bit.
Tie the rope attached to E to the rear round, leaving two inches
play, between E and the round. Tie the rope attached to D to the top
round of standards, leaving two inches play at top and two inches
between lower end of D and bottom round.
First place a stone on the drop bar, weighing 20 pounds. Then raise
the drop bar high enough so that you can place the short lath under
the round of drop so that the weight rests on the rope. These is the
secret of setting. The pressure on top forces the lower end to fly
up. Now place the beveled end of the short lath in the slot of the
long lath and the trap is set.
Hang your bait from the drop bars, under the weight, about eight
inches from the front. The game will then come to the side of the
trap. Never tie bait on the lath.
Set the trap in front of the hole, block up by setting up two stones
V shape on the upper side of hole, forcing game thru the trap to
enter or come out.