Examination of the coast between Cape Londonderry and Cape Voltaire,
containing the surveys of Sir Graham Moore's Islands, Eclipse Islands,
Vansittart Bay, Admiralty Gulf, and Port Warrender.
Encounter with the natives of Vansittart Bay.
Leave the coast at Cassini Island for Coepang.
Obliged to bear up for Savu.
Anchor at Zeeba Bay, and interview with the rajah.
Some account of the inhabitants.
Disappointed in not finding water.
Leave Zeeba Bay, and beat back against the monsoon to Coepang.
Complete wood and water, and procure refreshments.
Return to Port Jackson.
Pass the latitude assigned to the Tryal Rocks.
Arrival in Sydney Cove.
1819. October 1.
We had now reached a part of the coast which, excepting a few of the
islands that front it, the French expedition did not see: we should
therefore have commenced its examination with more pleasure had we been
in a state better fitted for the purpose; for we were rapidly consuming
our stock of water without any prospect of finding a supply at this
season; and this, added to the loss of our anchors, considerably lessened
the satisfaction we should otherwise have felt in viewing the prospect
before us.
After a calm and sultry morning a breeze from the North-East carried us
towards the land, the situation of which was pointed out by the smoke of
natives' fires. A little before three o'clock it was seen from the deck
and as we stood towards it we narrowly escaped striking on a part of the
shoal that extends off Cape Londonderry: our course was then directed
towards some broken land in the South-West which proved to be a group of
islands with a considerable sinuosity in the coast behind them; the
eastern head of the bay was called Cape Talbot after the then Lord
Lieutenant of Ireland. Between this and Cape Londonderry the coast is
very low and defended by an extensive reef, which in many parts was dry.
During the night we stood off shore.
October 2.
And at daylight were eight miles from the islands. At nine o'clock, being
calm, we anchored to the north of the group, which was named Sir Graham
Moore's, in compliment to the gallant admiral then holding a seat at the
Admiralty Board. The principal island is more elevated than the rest and
has a flat tabular summit: it bore from the anchorage South 19 degrees
East three miles and a half.
The sea-breeze set in from North-West with the change of tide; as soon as
the sun's meridional altitude was observed we got under sail and steered
to the West-South-West; but were soon after obliged to alter the course
to avoid a shoal on which the sea was breaking within fifty yards of us.
After passing this danger we found ourselves in a deep channel the
seaward limit of which was formed by an extensive reef connected with
Jones' Island. At sunset we anchored within one mile and a half of the
shore in five fathoms and a half, soft sandy mud, off the entrance of a
considerable bight or bay; which appeared to be so nearly blocked up by a
reef of dry rocks that it was doubtful whether we should be able to
penetrate without going round the Eclipse Islands; these islands were so
named in consequence of an eclipse of the moon that took place in the
evening; and the flat-topped mount which is conspicuous on the principal
island of the group was named Eclipse Hill.
October 3.
The next morning was passed in examining the reefs to the southward; we
first landed on the south-east end of Long Island, where a set of
bearings and a tolerable view up the bay were obtained. Long Island is of
a rugged character and formed principally of large water-worn masses of
quartzose sandstone superincumbent upon a basis of the same rock. The
spaces between them were occupied by a variety of plants, the examination
of which fully employed Mr. Cunningham: natives' traces and fireplaces,
and the remains of a turtle-feast were observed; but there were no signs
of the islands having been very recently visited by the Indians: we
afterwards landed upon some dry rocks that lie in the mid-channel, and
whilst I was occupied in taking bearings the boat's crew fished, but with
little success on account of the rapidity of the tide.
October 4.
After this we found and examined a tolerably wide and deep channel on the
eastern side of the Middle Rocks; through which, as it appeared to be
free from danger, the cutter was worked the next morning, and afterwards
anchored near the western side of the bay; where the verdant appearance
of the grass and trees that clothed the sides of the hills induced me to
land for the purpose of searching for water; we were, however,
disappointed: large streams of water had evidently very lately poured
down the gullies; but there was not the least vestige of any remaining.
On the beach of one of the sandy bays the traces of natives were more
numerous than usual; for we counted as many as forty small fireplaces
arranged in a straight line along the beach; near to each were lying the
stones on which the Indians had evidently been bruising seeds,
particularly of the fruit of a new species of sterculia, the husks of
which were strewed about: near the fireplaces were the remains of two
huts; one of them was thrown down, but the other was perfect enough to
give us an idea of its form and for us to recognise its resemblance to
some we had seen on the East coast.
A curious implement was found on the shore, the use of which we could not
at all conjecture, unless it had belonged to the Malays; it was fifteen
feet long and five inches in diameter, and composed of three saplings
firmly and closely united and covered with grass secured to it by rope
twisted of strips of bark; it might have been a fender for the purpose of
hanging between the Malay proas when moored together, to prevent their
being injured by their sides coming in contact.
The shores and hills were thickly scattered over with large masses of a
dark red-coloured sandstone covered with a crust of quartz; the latter
substance was not however found in a crystallized state. Everything bore
the most parched and arid appearance; the country was certainly seen by
us at the most disadvantageous season; but although the hills are thickly
wooded the dwarf and stunted habit of the trees is a proof, if we had
required it, of the shallow and unproductive quality of the soil. The
smoke of three or four large fires were noticed on the opposite side of
the bay, the flames of which blazed up as the seabreeze set in. Recent
and numerous tracks of the kangaroo were observed in all directions. Fish
were abundant, but none were caught. Before returning on board we visited
two other places in the bay to make further search for water, but with no
better success; and we began to despair of finding any upon the coast.
October 5.
We weighed the next day with the sea-breeze, and anchored in the
south-east corner of the bay: in the evening we landed on a projecting
point close to the anchorage and ascended its summit, which was so
thickly covered with climbing plants that it was called Vine Head. From
this station an extensive view was obtained of the bottom of the bay; and
as it was nearly low water the time was favourable for my purpose. Near
the anchorage was a small mangrove opening, the entrance of which was
blocked up by a dry mud bank.
When we landed we found a piece of wood upon the beach with a nail-hole
in it: it had probably been part of a Malay proa; for a fleet of such
visitors, consisting of twenty-six vessels on the trepang fishery, was
seen in this neighbourhood by the French in 1801;* and, according to
their report, annually visit this part of the coast.
(*Footnote. Freycinet Terres Australes page 24.)
This day was spent in examining the shores of the bottom of the bay. We
first pulled up the arm to the eastward of Vine Head which trends in for
one mile, and then examined the bay on its western side, which was found
to be both shoal and rocky. We next rowed inside of Jar Island whose
peaked summit forms a very good mark for the channel between the Middle
and Long Rocks. In pulling towards the west side of the bay, at the back
of Jar Island, a native was perceived running along the rocky shore
towards the point we were steering for; round which, as we passed it
yesterday, there appeared to be a deep cave or inlet. As we pulled along
the shore we were amused in watching how nimbly the Indian leaped from
rock to rock: he was alone and unarmed. At one time we pulled close to
the shore and endeavoured to entice him to approach us, but he stood
looking at us from the summit of a rocky eminence close to the beach,
without attending to our invitations; and, upon our repeating them and
resting on our oars, he retreated towards the smoke of a fire that was
burning behind the mangroves on the south shore at the bottom of the
inlet into which we were pulling; on approaching it we found that the
native had already arrived and given the alarm to a family of Indians,
consisting of three men, two women, and four children, who had been
cooking their repast.
As soon as our approach was discovered the women took their baskets and
moveables and hurried away with the children, whilst the men seized their
spears to protect their retreat; but as our object was not to alarm these
poor savages, we pulled over to the opposite shore, which was about sixty
yards across, and landed: Mr. Cunningham and I then ascended a steep hill
that rose immediately from the shore, the summit of which promised to
afford us a prospect of the surrounding land. The view however from this
eminence, although extensive, did not answer my expectation: a low
country of an arid and barren appearance extended to the southward; the
northern part of the land on which we were appeared to be that described
by the French as Bougainville Island, but it was now clearly and
distinctly ascertained to be a peninsula: our view to the north-west was
intercepted by higher hills than those we were upon. After taking all the
bearings that the confined prospect permitted, without having very
materially improved my knowledge of the surrounding country, I began to
think of returning to the boat, and on looking towards the natives
perceived that they had left the tree and were standing about fifty yards
farther back, attentively engaged in consultation and in watching our
movements: besides their spears they carried short pieces of wood like
throwing sticks, and one of them also held in his hand a shield. After
some deliberation they moved quickly forward towards the foot of the hill
on which we were, evidently with an intention of intercepting our return
to the boat, but when we began to descend the hill they stopped and
slowly retired to their former station; had they persevered they would
have easily cut off our retreat, and as we had forgotten the precaution
of arming ourselves the consequence might have been serious. This
movement of the natives made us suspicious of no very friendly intentions
on their part and hurried our return to the boat; but, the descent being
steep and strewed with rocks which were concealed by grass higher than
our middles, we did not reach the bottom of the hill without several
bruises.
Upon re-embarking we perceived that the natives had again ascended the
tree to watch our movements; but when they saw the boat pulling across
the stream towards them they leaped down and retired among the trees.
After repeated calls which had not the effect of inducing them to
approach, we rowed out of the cove, and, on passing a projecting point
that was less wooded than other parts, Mr. Cunningham expressed a wish to
collect some specimens of the plants that were growing upon it. Whilst
meditating upon the propriety of landing so near to the natives, whose
conduct we had already some reason to suspect, a dog which we had before
seen with them came from behind a bush near the water's edge and walked
up to its knees in the water towards us; the boat was backed in and we
endeavoured to entice it within our reach by throwing some food; but the
animal, upon discovering that we were strangers, became shy, and after
smelling about ran back towards a bush about fifty yards off; from which
the natives, who had all the time been concealed behind it, rushed out
and with loud shouts ran towards us: upon reaching the water's edge they
threw several stones, one of which nearly struck the boat; they then
prepared their spears, when it was found necessary to deter them by
firing a musket over their heads; the noise of which had the desired
effect; for, struck with a sudden panic at the report which echoed
through the trees, they turned and fled; and as they scampered off two
more balls were fired over them, which, if possible, increased the
rapidity of their flight until the trees concealed them from our view;
after this we neither heard nor saw anything more of them.
This circumstance gave the name of Encounter Cove to the inlet. On our
return we called at Jar Island and walked over it, but with difficulty,
on account of the confused heaps of rugged stones that were strewed over
its rocky surface. The spinifex that grew in the interstices of the rocks
was also no inconsiderable hindrance to our movements. Behind the beach
was a large basin full of salt water that, in the wet season, would
doubtless furnish fresh, since it appeared to have been formed by the
runs from the rocks, the upper surfaces of which were hollowed out by the
effect of the rain: these holes or cisterns are probably full of water in
the wet season.
On the beach we found a broken earthen pot which decidedly proved the
fact of the Malays visiting this part of the coast and explained the
mischievous disposition of the natives. Before we returned to the cutter
we landed on some rocks in the bay, at the back of Jar Island, to fish,
but having very little success we did not delay, and by sunset reached
the vessel.
October 7.
On the 7th we left the anchorage under Vine Head, and by the aid of a
breeze from the North-West worked out of the western entrance of the bay,
which appeared to be quite free from danger of every sort.
At sunset we anchored in the outer part of the entrance in nine fathoms
and a half, muddy bottom. On the west side of the peninsula we passed
three bays, from one to two miles deep and one mile broad; in each of
these inlets there appeared to be good anchorage.
The bay was named Vansittart after the late Chancellor of the Exchequer.
October 8.
At daylight (8th) we weighed and stood out to the North-West between
Troughton Island and Cape Bougainville. Round the latter projection the
land trends so deeply in to the southward that it was lost to view; but
two flat-topped islands were seen in the South-South-West, which
afterwards proved to be some of Captain Baudin's Institute Isles; we were
now obliged to steer down the western side of the cape, for our further
progress to the westward was stopped by a considerable reef extending
north and south parallel with the land of Cape Bougainville. During the
afternoon we had the wind and tide against us so that we made no
progress. Some bights in the coast were approached with the intention of
anchoring in them but the water was so deep and the ground so
unfavourable for it that the stream anchor was eventually dropped in the
offing in twenty-two fathoms: where during the night the tide set with
unusual velocity and ran at the rate of one knot and three-quarters per
hour.
October 9.
In the morning a view from the masthead enabled me to see a confused mass
of rocks and islets in the South-West. At eight o'clock the flood tide
commenced and the anchor being weighed, we steered towards the bottom of
the gulf; on our way to which the positions of several small rocks and
islets, which form a part of this archipelago, were fixed. At noon our
latitude was 14 degrees 7 minutes 15 seconds, when the hill, which we
ascended over Encounter Cove in Vansittart Bay, was seen bearing South 88
1/2 degrees East. The land to the southward was still far distant but
with a fresh sea breeze we made rapid progress towards it and by four
o'clock entered an extensive port at the bottom of the gulf and anchored
in a bay on its western shore, land-locked, in four fathoms and
three-quarters, mud. In finding this anchorage we considered ourselves
fortunate for the freshness of the breeze in so dangerous a situation
made me feel uneasy for our only anchor, which we must have dropped at
night, however exposed our situation might have been: by midnight the
breeze fell and we had a dead calm.
October 10.
The next day we landed on the west head of the bay, Crystal Head, where
the meridional altitude of the sun was observed and sights for the
chronometers taken; in the evening we ascended its summit and by a
bearing of the land of Cape Bougainville the survey was connected with
Vansittart Bay.
In the morning a young kangaroo was started by Mr. Cunningham but made
its escape; the traces of these animals were very numerous on the sides
of the hills; several birds new to us were seen, and we also found about
the bushes the tail-feathers of the Cuculus phasianus (Index Orn. Sup.
page 30). The summit of Crystal Head is of flat tabular form; and the
sides, which are both steep and rugged, are covered with stunted trees
and high grass, now quite dry: the geology of this part is principally of
siliceous sandstone; and on the beach we found large detached water-worn
masses of the same rock, incrusted with quartz and epidote in a
crystallized state.
(*Footnote. The Centropus phasianus Tem. anal. plate 24. Polophilus
phasianus Shaw's Gen. Zool. volume 9 page 48 plate 11. Zool. Misc. plate
46. Pheasant Cuckow Gen. Syn. sup. 11 page 137.)
No natives were seen; but, from the large fires that were burning, a
numerous party was probably collected at the bottom of the port.
October 11.
On the 11th we got under weigh and anchored again at a few miles further
up the port, near a small rocky island where the latitude was observed to
be 14 degrees 32 minutes 45 seconds. In the afternoon Mr. Roe and Mr.
Cunningham accompanied me in the whale-boat to examine the bottom of the
port; which was found to terminate in two inlets winding under either
side of a bold prominent range of steep rocky hills, thickly clothed with
stunted trees. We pulled up the south-eastern arm; and having proceeded
as far as prudence allowed, for from not calculating upon being absent
long we had brought no provisions, we returned on board with the
intention of examining it further on the following day. In rowing back, a
kangaroo was seen skipping over the hills; and an alligator was lying
asleep on the beach, but it rushed into the water as we passed the spot.
October 12.
The next day Mr. Roe, accompanied by Mr. Cunningham, explored both arms;
and from his report the plan is made: but as they are merely salt-water
inlets, they are of little importance. During the absence of the boat the
state of our provisions and water was examined, on both of which, as we
had anticipated, the rats had made considerable havoc; two of the casks
were quite empty from holes gnawed by these animals to get at the water;
and several were so short of their contents that we had but a fortnight's
allowance left: this discovery induced me to determine on taking the
first opportunity that should offer of leaving the coast and resorting to
Timor; for, besides our want of water, several of the crew were attacked
by scurvy, so that it was also necessary to visit it to procure some
fresh provisions for them.
Port Warrender, which name was bestowed upon this fine harbour, is of
considerable extent; the land is very rugged and rocky; but although the
soil is shallow the hills on the western side are thickly covered with
grass and trees; which grew so luxuriantly in the gullies and bore so
verdant an appearance that fresh hopes were revived of finding water; we
were however very soon convinced of its being entirely destitute of it.
On the eastern side of the port the land is much broken and fronted by
several islands which were named after Sir John Osborn, one of the Lords
of the Admiralty; among them is a conspicuous steep rocky head, like
Mount Cockburn in Cambridge Gulf; it appeared to be perfectly
inaccessible.
October 13.
At daylight (13th) we left the port; we had very little wind during the
day and by sunset had only reached an anchorage off Point Pickering, so
named after a late much-respected friend.
A bay trends to the westward of Point Pickering, which was called
Walmsley Bay; it probably affords good anchorage.
October 14.
During the night we had lightning from the North-West, and the next day
the wind was so light that we did not make much progress; an anchorage
was occupied during the ensuing night to the eastward of Point Biggs,
half a mile to the northward of a small rocky island in ten fathoms and a
half, muddy bottom. Every succeeding day the weather was getting more and
more unfavourable for our purpose; which increased my anxiety to escape
from this labyrinth of islands and shoals; for we had evidently no time
to spare in order to leave the coast before the rainy season should
commence.
The whole of this gulf is admirably formed for the trepang fishery and
the animal is extremely abundant among the reefs. Both fish and turtle
are plentiful, the latter are of very large size; none however were taken
to determine its species. We have seen very few inhabitants on this part
of the coast but at this season they are doubtless divided into small
detached parties for the greater facility of procuring sustenance, and of
making their reservoirs of water, wherever they may be, last longer.
October 15.
The next day, after an ineffectual attempt to pass out through the
islands in the vicinity of Cape Voltaire, we anchored about midway
between three of high flat-topped form; and at night the boat was
despatched to the easternmost island, to watch for turtle, but it
returned without having seen any. During the night the wind blew a
moderate breeze from South-West with dark cloudy weather.
October 16.
At daylight we weighed, but from light baffling winds it was some time
before we cleared the islands. The tide however swept us out and drifted
us half a mile to windward of a small peaked island which must be the
Pascal Island of the French: this islet is of small size but remarkable
for its conical shape and having, as it were, its apex cut off. It is
surrounded by a rocky shoal of small extent.
The wind had now veered to West-North-West and obliged our passing to the
eastward of Cassini Island (of Captain Baudin); and, from the immense
numbers of turtle-tracks that were seen upon its beach, we would gladly
have anchored near it, had a convenient place offered; but the bottom was
so deep that we could not with safety drop our anchor. The plan given by
M. de Freycinet of this archipelago is so defective that many of his
islands could not be recognised; but those which were made out preserve
his names. Cassini Island is sufficiently well placed by him, and was a
useful point for the sake of comparing our longitudes. In the space
between Cape Bougainville and Cape Voltaire, which was named the
Admiralty Gulf, we have given positions to at least forty islands or
islets.
Having now emerged from the archipelago of islands which front this part
of the north-west coast we seized the opportunity of taking leave of it
for the present and directed our course for Timor. At 4 hours 19 minutes
p.m., when the centre of Cassini Island bore South 4 degrees 30 minutes
West, distance 6 minutes 8 seconds by survey, sights for the chronometers
made the centre of the island in 125 degrees 41 minutes 22 seconds, which
is 2 minutes 32 seconds to the eastward of the longitude assigned to its
centre in M. de Freycinet's chart.
October 20.
On the 20th in the evening after a succession of damp weather with
squalls of thunder, lightning, and rain, and variable baffling winds, a
fresh breeze set in from East-South-East.
October 21.
At six o'clock the next morning it settled in the South-East with heavy
rain, thunder, and lightning, and afterwards the weather cleared up. As
soon as day dawned, sail was made to the North-West and before noon we
hauled up North-North-West to allow for a westerly current; at two p.m.
the weather clouded in and was followed by squalls of wind and rain from
the North-East, which, after passing over us, returned again from the
westward with more rain but less wind.
October 22.
At daylight (22nd) we saw the Island of Rottee, but instead of being,
according to our account, to windward of it, we were very little to the
eastward of its south-west end; having been set forty-three miles to the
westward since yesterday noon. During the day, as the wind was at
South-East, we endeavoured to pass round its windward side, but the
current was setting with such strength to the westward that, finding we
had lost ground during the night, we bore up the next morning for the
island of Savu, a proceeding which, if we should succeed in procuring
refreshments and fresh water there, would be more advantageous than going
to Timor: for in the first place there was less chance of incurring
sickness among the crew; and secondly we should be farther advanced on
our voyage back. Captain Cook, on his visit to Savu in 1770, found a
Dutch resident there; and I recollected having been assured by Mr.
Hazaart, the Resident at Timor, that the people were well-disposed
towards the English: Captain Horsburgh also mentions in his description
of Savu that the Dutch have residents on all these islands; and, as a
corroboration of these accounts, I had been informed by the master of a
merchant schooner at Port Jackson, who had lately been among these
islands, that abundance of good water could be procured there. Opposed to
this last report, Captain Cook says, "We were upon the coast at the
latter end of the dry season (September), when there had been no rain for
seven months, and we were told, that when the dry season continues so
long, there is no running stream of fresh water upon the whole island,
but only small springs, which are at a considerable distance from the sea
side:"* this conflicting account was discouraging; but as we had lately
had much rain it was hoped that there would be a sufficiency in the
springs for our use.
(*Footnote. Hawkesworth Coll. volume 3 page 277.)
October 24.
Having fully weighed all these circumstances we bore up for Savu, and at
four p.m. on the 24th anchored in Zeba Bay, on the north-west side of the
island. The bank on which the anchor was dropped was so steep that,
although the anchor was in twelve fathoms, the vessel was, at the length
of forty fathoms of cable, in twenty-two fathoms. As we were bringing up,
two muskets were fired from the shore, and a white flag, or rather a rag,
was suspended to a pole, around which a group of people had collected.
This flag gave us no very favourable idea of the respectability of the
place, and the meaning of the muskets we could not divine, nor indeed
ever did discover, unless it was that we had anchored on bad ground: the
boat was then hoisted out and I went on shore, accompanied by Messrs.
Bedwell and Cunningham, to where the flag was displayed. On approaching
the shore three people came down to direct us to the proper landing
place; for in all other parts of the beach a heavy surf was breaking. We
were then conducted to a hut in the rear of the flagstaff, where we found
from fifteen to twenty persons assembled; two of whom appeared, by their
dress and from the respect paid to them by the rest, to be chiefs. To
these I addressed myself and inquired for the Dutch resident, but soon
found there was none, and that one of those to whom we were speaking was
the Rajah himself. I afterwards found he was the identical Amadima of
whom interesting mention is made by Peron in his historical account of
Captain Baudin's expedition.*
(*Footnote. Peron tome 1 pages 119, 151, 161, and 162.)
My inquiries were made partly by signs and partly by a few terms in the
Malay language that we had collected from Captain Cook,* and from
Labillardiere's account of D'Entrecasteaux's voyage. Aer (water) was
among the foremost of our inquiries, to which we added the terms for
pigs, sheep, fowls, and coconuts, (vavee, doomba, mannu, and nieu).
Everything but water was plentiful and could be supplied by paying for
them in rupees or bartering them for gunpowder. On repeating the question
for water, their constant reply was, trada aer! trada aer! (no water, no
water). No misunderstanding could have taken place, for on our inquiry,
thinking it was for present use, they brought us some to drink. They
afterwards conducted us to a shallow well or spring in which there were
about ten or fifteen gallons; and this was all there was near the sea.
(*Footnote. Hawkesworth Coll. volume 3 page 298.)
Amadima, on our landing, sent a horseman to the town with a message, who
soon after returned with a paper which was shown to us; but, the
substance being in Dutch, we could not understand its purport; the sum of
seventy-four rix-dollars was, however, sufficiently plain to show that
money was wanted, and this conjecture was afterwards strengthened by a
petition whispered in my ear by Amadina himself for sato rupee (one
rupee); but, not having provided myself with any, I could not satisfy his
wants.
Gunpowder was in great request among them and we were given to understand
that we might obtain everything we required, excepting water, for money
or for gunpowder. Trada aer was so often repeated that we re-embarked
quite disappointed.
On our way to the boat we were accompanied by the whole mob, which had
now increased to forty or fifty people: all the men were armed with
cresses, and two amongst them had swords and spears; but there was no
appearance of hostility or of any unfriendly disposition towards us. When
they saw our empty barica in the boat they intimated by signs that we
might fill it, and Mr. Bedwell and Mr. Cunningham accordingly accompanied
one of our people to the well to take advantage of their offer; for a few
gallons of water were now of great importance to us.
We then took a friendly leave of these islanders under the full
expectation on their part of our returning in the morning with rupees and
powder to barter with their commodities; whereas I had quite determined
to leave the bay the moment that the day dawned.
The two following modes of proceeding were now only left to us; namely,
either to beat back to Coepang which bore East by North 120 miles, or to
bear up and pass through the straits of Lombock or Allas, and go to
Madura or Sourabaya for water, of which, on a reduced allowance, we had
enough on board for fifteen days.
To do the first would probably take a week or ten days, even if favoured
by the wind. At Coepang we could procure everything we wanted; and the
only arguments against such a measure were the probable length of the
voyage, and when there, the chance of being delayed until the adverse
monsoon should set in against us, by which our return to Port Jackson
would be perhaps prevented. To undertake the second would, from our being
weakly manned, subject us to danger from the Malay piratical proas in
passing the Straits; but as the latter mode of proceeding could be
resorted to in the event of our failing in the other, our united opinion
was that, of the two plans, the better was to go to Timor. Upon this
decision all hands were immediately set to work to fill our empty
water-casks with salt water and to get all the weighty things off the
deck into the hold, in order to give the vessel more stability.
October 25.
This was completed by night and at break of day we left the anchorage
with a fresh breeze from East-South-East.
Considering the short time we were on shore it would be the greatest
presumption for me to say anything respecting Savu, when so good an
account is already before the public in Captain Cook's voyage.* Every
circumstance that we could compare with it is still correct, except that
the women appear to have lost the decency he describes them to possess;
for there were several whom curiosity and the novelty of our arrival had
brought down to see us, naked to the hips, which alone supported a
petticoat or wrapper of blue cotton stuff that exposed their knees.
(*Footnote. Hawkesworth Coll. Volume 3 page 277 et seq.)
The beach was lined with the areca, or fan-palm tree, from which the
well-known liquor called toddy is procured. During our conference with
these people they were all busily employed in eating the fruit spike of
the piper betle,* which they first thickly covered with shell-lime; after
chewing it for some time, they spit it out into the hand of the attendant
slave who completes the exhaustion of this luxurious morceau by conveying
it to his own mouth.
(*Footnote. Persoon, in his description of areca catechu, makes the
following observation: E fructu ab extima pellicula libero, simul cum
foliis piperis betle, addito pauxillo calcis ex ostreis, fit
masticatorium, quod Indiani continue volvunt in ore, ut malus anhelitus
corrigatur, et dentes ac stomachus roborentur. Persoon, Syn. Plant. pars.
2 577.)
They have a small-sized breed of horses at Savu, similar to that of
Rottee; and pigs, sheep, and poultry appeared to be very plentiful. No
observations were taken during our stay in Zeba Bay. The tides were
scarcely perceptible and their rise and fall uncertain from the steep
bank on which we had anchored.
After quitting the bay we made every possible progress towards Timor; and
as long as we kept between the Islands of Savu and Rottee we found no
perceptible current against us, although the wind was constantly from the
South-East.
October 26.
On the 26th the contents of one of our remaining casks of water was found
to be so bad that it could not be used for any purpose; upon examination
it turned out that the cask had been constructed at Port Jackson of the
staves of old salt-provision barrels. This loss, amounting to two days'
water, we could but ill spare: two or three gallons were collected from
the rain which fell during the evening; and this trifling supply,
although it had a tarry taste, was acceptable in our present
circumstances.
The next morning was calm. A small coasting proa was seen to the
northward but soon afterwards lost sight of, steering towards Timor.
October 28.
At daylight (28th) land was seen bearing East 1/2 North; at noon our
latitude was nine degrees 45 minutes 32 seconds; and by the morning and
evening sights for the chronometers a current had set us to the North 81
degrees West at nearly one mile and a quarter per hour. The wind, hanging
between South-East and South-South-East, prevented our tacking to the
southward to get out of the current, which, on our first experiencing it,
was thought to have been occasioned by a set through the strait of
Rottee; it was however afterwards found that we were on the southern edge
of the current that sets to the westward, down the north coast of Timor,
and that between Rottee and Savu the current is of trifling consequence.
October 29.
The next morning land was again indistinctly seen bearing East 12 degrees
South. At ten a.m. it was clearly visible, as well as a peaked hill which
bore East 1/2 North. We were now in a current setting rapidly to the
westward and soon lost a great portion of the ground that we had been so
long toiling to gain. In the evening the wind veering to East-South-East
enabled us to steer to the southward and to get out of the influence of
the current.
October 30 to 31.
From this to the 31st we had made little progress to the eastward; but in
the afternoon a breeze set in from West-South-West and brightened our
prospects: our water being now nearly expended, no time was to be lost,
and we steered for the Strait of Rottee in order to pass through that of
Samow; but the wind was so light that, not being sufficiently advanced
before dark, we bore up, and passed round the west side of Pulo Samow
with a breeze from South-East which continued during the night...
1819. November 1.
And by daylight had carried us near the north-west end of the island; at
nine a.m. the sea breeze set in from South-West and West, and gradually
increasing, we happily succeeded in arriving off the town of Coepang
where we moored at one-fifth of a mile from the flagstaff of Fort
Concordia, bearing South 14 1/2 degrees East.
Mr. Roe went on shore soon after anchoring to wait upon the Resident, and
to inform him of the purport of our visit: he found that our former
friend Mr. Hazaart was at Batavia, and that his place was temporarily
supplied by Mr. Halewyn; from whom we experienced such assistance and
attention as enabled us to complete our wood and water and to obtain
refreshments for the crew by the eighth day.
November 1 to 9.
The refreshments consisted of sheep, coconuts, limes, bananas, mangoes,
and the Jaca fruit. The sheep weighed from twelve to sixteen pounds and
were charged at about seven shillings and seven pence each. Limes were
very scarce, and oranges, pompions, and other vegetables which were most
wanted, were not to be procured at this season. Honey was very plentiful
and good and was preferred by our people to the gulah, of which we got
large quantities last year.
The weather during the first three or four days of our stay was fine but
afterwards damp and showery with a succession of land winds, which
affected us all with colds; so that we lost no time in leaving the bay
the moment that our wants were supplied, which was at sunset on the
ninth.
From the secretary to the government we obtained information that Captain
de Freycinet of the French Corvette L'Uranie had visited Coepang in
October last, and remained there fifteen days. L'Uranie was fitting out
at Toulon when we left England in 1817 for a voyage round the world, and
was expected on her way to touch upon the western coasts of New Holland;
but it appeared that the only place which Captain De Freycinet visited
was Shark's Bay on the western coast; he remained there a short time for
the purpose of swinging his pendulum, and of completing the astronomical
observations that had been previously made during Commodore Baudin's
voyage. We also heard that the master and four of the crew of the ship
Frederick, the wreck of which we had seen at Cape Flinders, had arrived
at Coepang in a ship that was in company with her at the time of the
accident; but what became of the Frederick's longboat, which left the
wreck with twenty-three of the crew, in company with the master's boat,
in which were ONLY FOUR OR FIVE people, never afterwards transpired.
November 10.
After leaving Coepang the wind, which freshened up from the East by
North, continued steady until the following day, when we were at noon in
10 degrees 36 minutes 47 seconds South, the summit of Savu bearing North
83 degrees West. The wind then fell and veered to South-South-East, but
towards evening freshened from South-East and South-East by South.
November 11.
By eight o'clock we steered a South-West course, and passed the islands
of Savu and Benjoar; the breeze then freshening veered round to the
eastward and brought on heavy rain with much thunder and lightning.
November 12 to 14.
After passing the meridian of Sandelwood Island, the wind varied between
north and south by way of east, often suddenly changing eight or ten, and
sometimes thirteen points of the compass at once.
November 15.
On the 15th we were at noon in latitude 15 degrees 14 minutes 7 seconds
and longitude 115 degrees 2 minutes when the wind changed to
West-North-West and cleared up the weather: it then gradually veered
round by South-West and South-South-West to the south-east trade.
November 21.
At noon on the 21st we had reached the latitude assigned to the Tryal
Rocks by the Dutch sloop, namely, 19 degrees 32 minutes 30 seconds; our
longitude was 108 degrees 8 minutes 36 seconds. Other accounts place
these rocks in 20 degrees 50 minutes; we therefore stood on with caution,
for the wind and the currents to the North-West were too strong for us to
lie to with safety for the night.
November 22.
At two a.m. being in latitude 20 degrees 41 minutes 14 seconds and
longitude 107 degrees 11 minutes 36 seconds we sounded without success
with ninety fathoms of line, and at four o'clock, having ran seven miles
on a South-West by South course, had no bottom with ninety-five fathoms:
at noon our latitude was 21 degrees 23 minutes 24 seconds, and longitude
106 degrees 41 minutes, when no bottom was reached with eighty fathoms.
The wind continued with little variation between South-East by South and
South-East by East until we reached the latitude of 27 1/2 degrees and
102 degrees 20 minutes East; here we had light southerly winds for two
days after which the South-East winds carried us as far as 32 degrees
South and 99 degrees 45 minutes East; between this and 34 degrees South
we had variable light airs from East-South-East to South-South-West.
Afterwards alternate northerly and southerly winds, with fine weather and
top-gallant breezes, carried us as far as latitude 38 degrees and
longitude 117 1/2 degrees. From this we ran along the south coast of New
Holland, with strong gales between South-South-West and West; but on
approaching Bass Strait the winds hung to the southward, and veering
afterwards to South-East we were driven to the northward.
1819. December 24.
On the 24th December at eight p.m. we made the land between Cape
Northumberland and Cape Buffon.
December 27.
But from light baffling winds had advanced no farther by noon (27th) than
four or five miles South-South-West of Lady Julia Percy's Isle. This
island is incorrectly laid down in Captain Flinders' chart, owing to the
very unfavourable weather which he experienced in passing this part of
the coast; we found it to lie East 3 degrees South (true) seventeen miles
and a half from Lawrence Island: a second island has a place in Captain
Flinders' chart, but we saw nothing of it. The coast also lies farther
back in proportion to the error of the island's position.
1820. January 2.
At four o'clock p.m. 2nd January we entered Bass Strait by the channel on
the north side of King's Island.
January 12.
After passing through the strait we experienced so much bad weather and
contrary gales of wind that we did not arrive at Port Jackson until the
morning of the 12th, having been absent thirty-five weeks and four days.
The result of our proceedings during this voyage has been the survey of
540 miles of the northern coast, in addition to the 500 that were
previously examined. Besides which we had made a running survey of that
portion of the intertropical part of the east coast that is situated
between the Percy Isles and Torres Strait; a distance of 900 miles; the
detailed survey of which had never before been made, for Captain Cook
merely examined it in a cursory manner as he passed up the coast. The
opportunity, therefore, was not lost of making such observations on our
voyage as enabled me to present to the public a route towards Torres
Strait infinitely preferable on every account to the dangerous navigation
without the reefs, which has hitherto been chiefly used.
As it was not intended that I should make the survey of this extensive
tract of coast I did not feel myself authorized to examine in any very
detailed way the bottom of every bay or opening that presented itself;
but merely confined myself to laying down the vessel's track and the
positions of various reefs that were strewed on either side of it; and
also to fixing the situations of the head-lands. In doing this enough has
been effected to serve as the precursor of a more particular examination
of the coast, the appearance of which, from its general fertile and
mountainous character, made me regret the necessity of passing so hastily
over it.