CHAPTER 2.

Examination of Rowley's Shoals, and Passage to the North Coast.

Survey of Goulburn Islands, Mountnorris and Raffles Bays.

Meet a Malay Fleet, and communicate with one of the Proas.

Explore Port Essington.

Attacked by Natives in Knocker's Bay.

Anchor in Popham Bay.

Visit from the Malays.

Examination of Van Diemen's Gulf, including Sir George Hope's Islands and

Alligator Rivers.

Survey of the Northern Shore of Melville Island, and Apsley Strait.

Interview with the Natives of Luxmore Head.

Procure wood at Port Hurd.

Natives.

Clarence Strait.

Leave the Coast, and arrival at Timor.

1818. March 6.

The south-east wind, which set in on the morning that we left our

anchorage off Depuch Island, continued to blow with thick misty weather,

and made us conjecture that the westerly monsoon was nearly expended; we,

therefore, steered off the coast with the intention of proceeding to the

eastward towards Cape Arnhem, after ascertaining the position of a shoal

that was seen by Captain Rowley, in H.M.S. Imperieuse, in 1800, and of

two others that are described by Captain Horsburgh to be in its vicinity.

They are situated according to the above authorities as follows, namely:

Imperieuse Shoal (south end): latitude 17 degrees 35 minutes, longitude

118 degrees 37 minutes.

Shoal seen by the ship Good Hope (north end): latitude 17 degrees 47 1/2

minutes, longitude 119 degrees 18 minutes.

Shoal seen by Captain Clerke (north part): latitude 17 degrees 28

minutes, longitude 119 degrees 2 minutes.

The last is described by its discoverer, to be 230 miles North 49 1/2

degrees East (Magnetic) from the north part of Rosemary Island, which

would assign to that island a situation in 20 degrees 6 minutes latitude,

and 116 degrees 6 minutes longitude; but on this parallel there is no

land to the westward of 118 degrees 40 minutes. The shoal, according to

Captain Horsburgh's account, is 264 miles North, 49 degrees East (true)

from Trimouille Island, the north-easternmost of the Montebello Group,

which must be the one taken by Captain Clerke for Rosemary Island.

March 6 to 12.

After leaving the land, the weather was very dull and damp for six days,

during which the wind being light and baffling prevented any progress.

Fortunately we were free from sickness, otherwise the heavy rains that

fell would have caused a considerable inconvenience to the crew, by

confining them to the same small cabin with the sick. Happily, however, I

heard of no complaints.

March 13.

And on the 13th at noon, the weather began to clear up with a freshening

breeze from the South-East, and soon veered to a steady wind from

South-South-West.

March 14.

We then steered East to make the shoal, and at sunset the next evening it

was seen about three miles off, when we sounded with 170 fathoms of line

without getting bottom.

March 15.

During the night we stood off to the westward, and early in the morning

made the shoal again: at noon, it was close to us, at which time our

latitude was by observation 17 degrees 33 minutes 12 seconds, from which

I deduce the situation of the north end of the shoal to be in:

Latitude 17 degrees 31 minutes 24 seconds:

Longitude 118 degrees 50 minutes 30 seconds:

the longitude being ascertained by chronometers from Depuch Island,

corrected afterwards for our arrival at the north coast.

On rounding the north end of the shoal, soundings were ineffectually

tried for, with 120 fathoms: soon afterwards, we bore up on an eastern

course, and in the evening saw another extensive shoal; within two miles

of the south end of which we sounded with 170 fathoms of line without

reaching the bottom.

The south end of the second shoal, is in:

Latitude 7 degrees 28 minutes 5 seconds:

Longitude 119 degrees 18 minutes 00 seconds:

It stretches in a North-West direction for seven or eight miles, and to

the eastward the breakers extended beyond the masthead horizon; its

limit, therefore, in the latter direction, remained undetermined.

March 16.

The next morning a third shoal was discovered, the south-east end of

which, is in:

Latitude 17 degrees 12 minutes:

Longitude 119 degrees 35 minutes.

These dangerous reefs were named Rowley's Shoals, in compliment to the

discoverer of the westernmost (the Imperieuse), the situation of which is

assigned by me to be 13 minutes 30 seconds to the eastward of Captain

Rowley's account: the middle shoal, seen by us last evening, is certainly

the one that Captain Clerke saw; but the third or north-easternmost,

distinguished by the Mermaid's name, seems to be a new discovery.

On the north end of the Imperieuse shoal rocks were distinguishable, and

some were also seen near its centre above the level of the sea: all other

parts were under water. On the middlemost shoal no rocks were uncovered;

but on the south-east end of the Mermaid's Shoal several were observed.

These reefs are of a coral formation, and are very dangerous to approach

at night, from their vicinity being unfathomable to the depth of 170

fathoms; still, however, the surf that constantly breaks upon them may be

heard at a great distance, and will generally be sufficient to warn the

navigator of his danger.

March 23.

On the 23rd we passed the meridian of Cape Van Diemen, in latitude 10

degrees 48 minutes. The same evening some land was indistinctly seen

bearing South.

March 24.

The ensuing daylight discovered to us several islands in the

South-South-East, having previously shoaled our soundings from 31 to 10

fathoms; and during the morning we steered through them.

The group contains several low coral-formed islands; the

north-easternmost of which proved to be the New Year's Island of

Lieutenant McCluer of the Bombay Marine; they are covered with a shrubby

vegetation, and are severally surrounded by a coral reef: the principal

of them were named Oxley's, McCluer's, and Lawson's Islands, and a larger

and higher island in the South-South-West was named in compliment to my

friend Captain Charles Grant, C.B., of the Royal Navy, under whose

auspices I entered the naval service.

We steered on to the East-South-East through the first part of the night,

with every prospect of reaching Cape Arnhem, where our examination of the

coast westwardly was to commence.

March 26.

But at midnight the wind changed to the eastward, and at daylight (26th),

the land was visible from south to South-West. At ten o'clock we fetched

in close to a low sandy point, and then bore up to the westward along the

coast, which appeared, as it afterwards proved to be, a part of the main.

The low point which commenced our survey was called Point Braithwaite,

and one mile North-West from it is Point Hall: the shore then trends five

miles to the westward to Point Cuthbert, from which a shoal communication

extends towards a rock on which the sea broke: we passed within the rock,

carrying two and a quarter fathoms; and then hauled in for a point of

land, called after my friend Captain G.H. Guion, R.N.; but not succeeding

in finding anchorage under it, we bore away along the shore, and at night

anchored off Point Turner. Between Points Guion and Turner is a deep but

rocky bay, at the bottom of which is an appearance of an opening lined

with mangroves: to the westward of Point Turner is another bay, which

circumstances did not then allow of our examining. From our anchorage the

land was traced as far as North-West, and appeared to be an island

separated from the main by a strait.

March 27.

The next day we passed through it, and anchored in a bay on the

South-West side of the island, at about half a mile from the beach. The

Strait was named Macquarie Strait, after the late Major-General Lachlan

Macquarie, who administered the government of New South Wales for a

period of nearly twelve years.

As the shores of the bay, in which we had anchored, appeared likely to

afford both wood and water, of which articles we were much in want, I was

induced to take advantage of the opportunity, and immediately made

preparation to commence these occupations. In the evening a pit was dug

for water, which oozed so fast into it, that we did not anticipate any

difficulty on that head, and the wood was both plentiful and convenient

to the beach.

It was now about the termination of the rainy season, and everything bore

the most luxuriant appearance; the grass, which covered the face of the

island, was more than six feet high, and completely concealed us from

each other as we walked to the summit of the hill, the sides of which

were very thickly wooded. Upon the edge of the beach, the pandanus, the

hibiscus, and a variety of other tropical trees and shrubs were growing,

and the sand was variegated with the long-stemmed convolvulus in full

flower.

The trees upon the hills were principally a small-sized eucalyptus, which

we cut for firewood, but the stem was generally found to be unsound, and

totally useless for any purpose excepting for fuel. Among the flowers

that were strewed about the island was a superb shrubby grevillea, with

scarlet flowers. The casuarina grew also near the sandy beach but it

seemed to prefer the exposed parts near the extremities of the sandy

projections of the land where no other tree would grow. The wood of this

tree appeared to be of a closer grain, and of a darker colour than the

species that is usually found upon the north coast.

The only edible fruit that we found was a small black grape: it bore a

very inferior resemblance to the common sweet-water grape, but the leaf

and habit are altogether different.

The centre of the bay is formed by a sandy beach; it is terminated by

cliffs of about forty feet in height, the upper stratum of which appeared

to be an indurated clay of a very red colour, occasioned by the

ferruginous nature of the rocks and soil; the lower part is a stratum of

the whitest pipe-clay, the upper limit of which, from the surface having

been washed clean by the late rains, was so defined and produced so

striking a contrast in point of colour as to give the whole a most

remarkable appearance.

At the distance of ten miles behind the beach of the mainland, which is

very low, there is a continued ridge of rocky hills which was named

Wellington Range, and behind them is the Tor, a remarkable rock that

stands alone. The range is about twenty-five miles in extent, and its

summit has a very irregular outline; it is visible for eight or nine

leagues.

March 28.

The morning after our arrival a baseline was measured upon the beach for

the survey of the bay, and whilst we were thus employed our people found

and brought to me several traces of Malays, who, as we are informed by

Captain Flinders, make annual visits to this part of the coast in large

fleets, to fish for beche de mer.

Among the relics were old broken joints of bamboo, which the Malays use

to carry their water in, some worn out cordage and a coconut, which had

perhaps been left behind by accident. The traces appeared to be of so

recent a date, that we conjectured the fleet was but a short distance to

the eastward of the islands, and as the easterly monsoon had commenced,

we were naturally in daily expectation of being overtaken by them. Our

operations, therefore, were hurried, since we could not tell what might

be the result of encountering them, as we were totally incapable of

defending ourselves, should they be mischievously inclined. A look-out

was therefore kept for their approach, and our people were held as much

as possible within sight, so that we might be prepared to weigh and leave

the place as soon as they should make their appearance.

The hole which had been dug for water was half full, but it was so

brackish as to be quite unfit for use.

Upon further search a small pond was found by Mr. Cunningham in a hollow,

at the back of the beach; but in the course of the day a run of water was

discovered by Boongaree, at the north end of the beach, oozing out from

the base of the pipe-clay cliffs, which proved upon examination to yield

better water than the former, besides being very much more convenient to

obtain.

Our wooding-party commenced operations the day after we arrived, and, on

their returning on board at night, imprudently left their tools on shore.

March 29.

The next day, whilst the people were at dinner, Boongaree, whose eyes

were constantly directed to the shore, espied five natives among the

grass, which was so high as nearly to conceal them, walking towards our

wooding-place; and, as they proceeded, it was perceived that they had

stolen one of our station-flags, four of which had been erected on the

beach to mark the baseline. On reaching the place where our people had

been employed, three of the natives began to throw down a pile of wood

that had been heaped up ready to embark, whilst the fourth crept on his

hands and knees towards the other station-flags, and succeeded in

carrying off two more before he was observed; but as he was on the point

of taking the fourth he was detected, and two muskets were fired at him,

upon which he fled into the woods, followed by his companions, carrying

with them all our wooding tools.

During the morning a canoe, containing six or seven natives, had been

seen on the opposite shore under Point Ross; but it had disappeared, and

had probably brought the party over who had just robbed us. Mr. Bedwell

suggested the idea of their having landed round the south point of the

bay, where, if so, their canoe would be found. He was accordingly

despatched to bring it away as a reprisal for our stolen flags and tools,

and upon his pulling round the point he saw several natives standing by

the canoe, which was hauled up on the beach. On the boat pulling in, one

of the natives poised a spear, but he retreated with his companions into

the wood the moment that our party landed, without throwing it. The canoe

was then launched and brought on board. It appeared to have originally

belonged to the Malays, for it was made from a log of teak; it was

seventeen feet long and two feet broad, and had probably been either

captured or stolen by these natives. During Mr. Bedwell's absence I

landed, to observe some distances between the sun and moon, and this task

was completed without interruption; the thieves were seen all the

afternoon standing among the trees, watching our movements; and upon our

making an excursion in the evening towards the north end of the bay, they

were observed to follow us armed with spears, but they did not show

themselves, since they probably perceived we were prepared to receive

them.

Before dark the canoe was hoisted up to the stern, and our other boats

were secured under it; notwithstanding which the natives swam off, and,

when everything was quiet, cut the whale boat's moorings, without being

detected, and swam away with her in tow; it was, however, discovered in

time, and the boat recovered before the tide had drifted her out of

sight.

March 30.

Early the next morning the cutter was removed nearer to the

watering-place that Boongaree had found, and in doing this we were

watched by ten or twelve natives, who were standing as they thought

concealed among the trees. This afforded us so good an opportunity of

expressing our anger at their attempt to steal our boat, and of showing

them that we were not Malays, that we fired a shot from a six-pounder

carronade over their heads, the report of which for a moment scared them;

but their alarm was only momentary, for they soon afterwards recovered

from their fright and continued to watch us as before.

As soon as the vessel was secured, our watering party commenced their

operations, and had been employed for half an hour without interruption,

when the natives suddenly appeared on the brink of the cliff that

overhung the beach, and threw several large stones at our people, which

slightly wounded three of them, before the muskets could be fired, upon

which the Indians retreated into the woods. The attack having been

observed from the vessel, the jolly-boat was dispatched to the shore with

assistance, and with orders to Mr. Bedwell to keep the whale-boat moored

at about fifteen or twenty yards from the beach with muskets ready to

fire, so that with this protection the watering-party were enabled to

continue their task without molestation. In the course of the day the

natives collected again behind the trees, and were at one time advancing

towards the cliffs, but being seen from the cutter a shot was fired over

their heads, which deterred them from coming forward. This hostile

conduct of the natives induced me to give up our intention of wooding at

this island; since the Indians might easily advance under cover of the

thick underwood, and throw their spears before we could be aware of their

approach. As soon, therefore, as our watering was completed, I determined

upon procuring our fuel from an island to the northward, which, during

our visit, we had seen from the North-West point of the bay, and which,

together with the one we were at, were called Goulburn Islands, in

compliment to the then Under-Secretary of State for the Colonies.

1818. April 1 to 4.

During our stay, Sims' Island, named at the request of Mr. Cunningham

after Dr. Sims, the eminent conductor of the Botanical Magazine, was

twice visited. It is situated in front of South-West Bay, is about two

miles and a half in circumference, and formed of a large and coarse

granular quartzose sandstone, large rounded masses of which cover the

surface at its northern end, the summit of which was named Sansom's Head.

Sims' Island furnished a very large addition to Mr. Cunningham's

collection, and among the flowers which it produced was a very beautiful

sweet-scented asclepias. No snakes nor reptiles of any description were

seen, but birds of various sorts were abundant, particularly the white

cockatoo. Of the sea-fowl, a species of tern was the most numerous. An

alligator, about fifteen feet long, swam about the vessel for some time,

which made us afterwards rather cautious of walking through the high

grass; but excepting a dog that followed the natives, no quadrupeds were

seen.

Off the north point of the bay, at the distance of a furlong, and

separated from it by a channel of from twelve to fifteen feet deep, are

two rocks of the same formation as those on Sims' Island; on the largest

was deposited a bottle containing a record on parchment of our visit. On

this rock all our observations were taken, excepting a few at the south

end of the sandy beach, before the natives showed themselves: the

longitude of Bottle Rock was subsequently determined to be 133 degrees 19

minutes 40 seconds.*

(*Footnote. Vide Appendix A Section X.)

April 6.

We left South-west Bay on the 4th, and the following morning anchored in

a bay on the west side of North Island, and on the 6th we commenced

cutting our wood from a group of casuarinas that grew close to the beach.

In the afternoon, when our party returned on board to dinner, some

natives were perceived examining our wooding-place, but our late

experience had taught us the precaution of bringing our tools away, to

prevent any further occasion of quarrel. They did not stop long but

walked on, as if they had some other object; at about forty yards farther

they halted again, and concealing themselves as they thought behind a

bank, they watched us for half an hour; after which they walked away and

disappeared among the trees.

April 7.

On our revisiting the shore, we traced their steps through the grass, and

came up with a shallow well containing fresh water, which they had

evidently taken the opportunity of our absence to drink at. Upon further

search we found their encampment; it consisted of three or four dwellings

of a very different description from any that we had before, or have

since seen: they were of a conical shape, not more than three feet high,

and not larger than would conveniently contain one person; they were

built of sticks, stuck in the ground, and being united at the top,

supported a roof of bark, which was again covered with sand, so that the

hut looked more like a sand-hillock than the abode of a human creature:

the opening was at one side, and about eighteen inches in diameter; but

even this could be reduced when they were inside, by heaping the sand up

before it. In one of the huts were found several strips of bamboo, and

some fishing-nets, rudely made of the fibres of the bark of trees.

Mr. Cunningham took the advantage of a good spot of soil in the vicinity

of our wooding-place to sow every sort of seed that we possessed, namely,

peach, apricot, loquat (a Chinese fruit), lemon, seventeen sorts of

culinary seeds, tobacco, roses, and a variety of other European plants;

and in addition to these, the coconut was planted, which we had found

upon the beach of South-West Bay, but it is very doubtful whether any

have succeeded, on account of the custom that the natives have when the

grass is dry, of setting fire to it, so that there is little doubt but

that all the annual plants have been destroyed.

The bay was called Mullet Bay, in consequence of the immense shoals of

that fish which were seen near the shores, and of which Boongaree speared

several with his fiz-gig. The trepang were found about the rocks on the

beach in great numbers, as they were also on the South Island.

April 8.

On the 8th we left Mullet Bay, and made an unsuccessful attempt to beat

round the north end of the island, and to return by steering through the

strait that separates the Northern from the Southern Island: we were,

however, prevented by the freshness of the wind, and the strength of the

current.

April 10.

On the 10th, we bore up with the intention of returning to South-West

Bay. On approaching it, however, we were surprised with the sight of the

Malay fleet steering through Macquarie Strait, towards two of their proas

that had already anchored in a sandy bay on the South-West side of Sims'

Island. It was therefore determined that we should proceed as far to the

westward before nightfall as we could, and as the bay to the South-East

of Sims' Island had not been sufficiently seen by us, we steered off so

as to reconnoitre the proas, and improve the survey at the same time.

As soon as we had reached the island, all the vessels but one had

anchored, and their crews were busily engaged in passing to and from the

shore in small canoes, apparently watering. We passed by at a small

distance with our colours flying, which was answered by each hoisting a

Dutch jack; but one of the proas, which was thought to be the Rajah's

vessel, bore a blue flag in addition. Some stragglers on the rocks who

appeared to take no part in the labours of the rest, and who were

probably the chiefs, waved repeatedly to us to stop; but as their

acquaintance could render us no service, I declined their invitations.

Our presence did not appear to have excited any particular bustle amongst

them, but every precaution was taken on our part to repel any attack. The

proas, which were fifteen in number, appeared to be of twenty-five to

forty tons burden, and the fleet contained altogether at least three

hundred men.

The evening was too far advanced to make any particular examination of

the sinuosities of the bay; but, after passing Sims' Island, our course

was sufficiently near the coast to perceive the general outline of the

beach as far as Point Brogden, off which we were at sunset. To the

eastward of Point Brogden, which is more elevated than other parts, the

coast assumes a cliffy character, and trends to the North-West towards De

Courcy Head, which we reached before dark.

April 11.

During the night we were under weigh, and at daylight were near Grant's

Island, which we had seen on the 24th of last month: we then steered for

the land, and reached De Courcy Head by eight o'clock, and were on the

point of hauling round Cape Cockburn, to explore a bay that trended in on

its western side, when the Malay fleet which we passed the preceding

evening were seen standing towards us. Not liking to enter it until they

had passed by, we made a trip off shore, but to our great mortification,

no sooner had they reached the cape, than they hauled in to the bay, and

anchoring there, prevented, for the present, our visiting it; we had no

wish, in our defenceless state, to form a better acquaintance with so

suspicious a crew.

As the land to the westward of Cape Cockburn trended deeply in to the

South-West, and formed a deep bay, we steered on to examine it, whilst

the Malays occupied the anchorage in what we afterwards called Malay Bay;

then passing through a strait separating Point Annesley from Valentia

Island, we entered Mountnorris Bay, and after coasting for some distance,

until the bottom of the bay was visible, we anchored near the eastern

shore, and passed the night.

The coast from Valentia Island to our anchorage is principally formed by

sandy beaches, the continuity of which is broken by projecting rocky

heads, one of which is Point Coombe. Valentia Island is low and thickly

wooded, and partakes of the monotonous appearance of the mainland, which

is equally covered with low, small, and apparently-stunted trees.

April 12.

At day-dawn the Malays were observed making a move, and as each proa got

under sail, it steered towards us. The anchor was, therefore, immediately

weighed, and we prepared to receive them as formidably as our means

allowed. Their number was now increased to twenty-one vessels, by their

having hoisted out six large canoes; but as they approached there was no

appearance of any hostile intention, since some of them steered across

the bay, and only a few continued to direct their course towards us. One

of the canoes came near with the intention of visiting us, but not liking

too intimate an acquaintance with them, we pointed to our carronade, and

beckoned to them to go away, which they immediately did. One of the proas

soon afterwards passed by with Dutch colours displayed, to which its crew

repeatedly pointed, at the same time hailing us in an unintelligible

jargon, of which Macassar and Trepang were the only words that were

distinguished. They also pointed to the North-West, but whether this was

intended to convey to us the direction of the place whence they came, or

the course they were about to steer, was not very evident. In a short

time the fleet had passed by, and as we were under weigh we returned to

the examination of Malay Bay, in which nothing worthy of note was found.

It affords good anchorage during the easterly monsoon on a muddy bottom

in from four to five fathoms, but its shores are low and its beaches

rocky, and so uninteresting, that we returned to our previous anchorage

in Mountnorris Bay.

April 13.

The next day we landed on Copeland Island and from its summit obtained

extensive bearings for the survey of the bay. The island is surrounded by

a coral bank; its north side is formed by a perpendicular argillaceous

cliff of a bright yellow colour, and is a conspicuous object to vessels

entering the bay. Behind the cliff to the south the land gradually

declines and runs off to a low point; the whole surface of the island is

covered with trees, among which a beautiful hatchet-shape-leafed acacia

in full bloom was very conspicuous. The other trees were principally of

the eucalyptus family; but they were all of small size. On the west side

of the island was a dry gully, and a convenient landing-place, near to

which a bottle was deposited, containing a parchment record of our visit,

and of the names bestowed upon the bays and islands hereabout.

Three natives were observed walking along the sandy beach, at the bottom

of the bay; but they passed on without taking the least notice of our

presence.

We left the anchorage on the 13th, and crossed the bottom of the bay

within Copeland Island: then steering up the west side we passed a large

opening, trending to the North-West. Here we were detained for some time,

by grounding upon a sandbank. But by keeping the sails full, the vessel

dragged over it, and we resumed our course to the northward, along the

west side of Mountnorris Bay; and, at sunset, anchored between it and

Darch's Island, which protected us from both the wind and swell, during a

very squally night. Darch's Island, so named after my esteemed friend,

Thomas Darch, Esquire, of the Admiralty, is, like Valentia Island, very

thickly wooded. Its eastern side is a continued bluff cliffy shore, but

the north and south ends are low, and terminate with a shoal; which, off

the former, is of rocks; and near its extremity is a single mangrove

bush, which was seen and set from Copeland Island's summit.

April 14.

The next morning, at daylight, we passed round the north extremity of the

island, which was named Cape Croker, in compliment to the first secretary

of the Admiralty; and anchored on the north side of a bight round the

cape, which was subsequently named Palm Bay.

In the afternoon we landed, and ascending the hill or bank behind the

beach, obtained a view of the coast of the bay: a distant wooded point,

called, from its unusual elevation, High Point, bounded our view to the

south; but to the South-West some patches of land were indistinctly

visible. Tracks of natives were seen in many places, and the marks of

footsteps on the beach had been very recently impressed. On the bank a

circular spot of ground, of fifteen yards in diameter, was cleared away,

and had very lately been occupied by a tribe of natives. The island is

thickly wooded with a dwarf species of eucalyptus, but here and there the

fan palm and pandanus grew in groups, and with the acacia, served to vary

the otherwise monotonous appearance of the country. The soil, although it

was shallow and poor, was covered with grass, and a great variety of

shrubs and plants in flower, which fully occupied Mr. Cunningham's

attention. As we proceeded through the trees, a group of lofty palms

attracted our notice, and were at first supposed to be coconut trees that

had been planted by the Malays; but on examining them closer, they proved

to be the areca, the tree that produces the betel-nut and the toddy, a

liquor which the Malays and the inhabitants of all the eastern islands

use. Some of these palms were from thirty to forty feet high, and the

stem of one of them was bruised and deeply indented by a blunt

instrument.

Having spent several hours on shore, without finding anything very

interesting or at all useful to us, we returned on board, when we found

that we had been watched by three natives, who had walked along the

beach, but on coming near us, had concealed themselves among the trees,

from which they had, probably, observed all our movements whilst we were

on shore. They were perhaps deterred from approaching us from our

numbers, and from the muskets which each of us carried; for our

experience of the disposition of the natives at Goulburn Island had

taught us prudence, and no boat was, after that affair, permitted to

leave the vessel without taking a musket for each man. It was, however,

fortunate for us that we were not often obliged to resort to them for a

defence, for the greater number of the twelve that we possessed were

useless, notwithstanding they were the best that could be procured at

Port Jackson when the vessel was equipped.

The rocks on the beach and the stones which are scattered about the

surface of the ground are all of a ferruginous nature, and appear from

their colour and weight to contain a large portion of iron; but the

needle of the compass was in no way affected by being placed near them.

The soil is also highly coloured by the oxide of iron, and it is this

that gives the cliffs of this part of the coast, particularly the upper

portion of them, the red appearance that they almost universally possess.

April 15.

The next day we went to High Point, which was found to be the east head

of a moderate-sized port, affording good anchorage and perfect security

during either monsoon. A sufficient inducement to bring the cutter thus

far presented itself; and as it was near sunset, our remarks were merely

confined to bearings from the point.

April 16.

On preparing to weigh the next morning, four Malay proas were observed

steering across the bay out of an opening which trends round the south

head of Palm Bay, and which proved to be a strait communicating with

Mountnorris Bay. It was named after my friend James Bowen, Esquire, one

of the Commissioners of the Navy. As soon as the proas had reached a

sufficient distance to leeward, we got under sail; and on rounding the

south point of the bay, and opening the strait, the remaining proas of

the fleet that we had previously seen, were observed at anchor close to a

sandy beach on the north shore, and their canoes to the number of twenty

were fishing on the opposite side of the strait. The latter, on observing

us, hoisted their sails, and returned to their proas; but as it was not

considered prudent to examine the port until they had passed by, its

exploration was deferred, and we returned to our anchorage in Palm Bay.

We had not, however, to wait long, for the proas left Bowen's Strait the

next morning, and crossed the bay to the westward. Our anchor was weighed

immediately, and we steered towards their sternmost vessel, in order to

communicate with her, and to show her a letter with which we had been

kindly provided by Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, written in the Malay

language, and explanatory of our occupation. On running alongside the

proa, the letter was displayed, but they appeared frightened and

unwilling to bring to, and repeatedly pointed towards the headmost proa

in which their Rajah sailed.

Since our object could not be effected without communicating with their

Rajah, and as another opportunity might offer at some future time of

communicating with these people, it was abandoned for the present; and we

steered into the bay, and anchored within a small island at the entrance,

in time to observe the sun's meridional altitude. The evening was spent

in pulling round the bay, the shores of which are low, and so overrun

with mangroves, that landing was in most parts impracticable; but a small

break in them being observed under a cliff, we put ashore to examine the

country. Here we found two streams of fresh water, one of which ran over

the beach with some force; but they appeared to be only the drainings of

the country, and to be merely of temporary duration. The soil was here

very good, but the trees and underwood were so thick that we did not

venture far from the boat. A native's basket was found, and the usual

signs of their having lately been hereabouts. We also landed on a

projecting point, at the bottom of the bay, to obtain bearings; and a

second time under a remarkable cliffy point on the west side, from the

summit of which another set of bearings were obtained, which completed

the survey of the port; and we named it Raffles Bay, in compliment to Sir

Stamford.

At night, the seine was hauled under High Point, and procured us a good

mess of fish.

April 19.

We left Raffles' Bay on the 19th in the morning, and ran along the

western shore to the North-West point which we passed round; and,

steering between it and a low sandy island, entered a bay, at the bottom

of which was an opening, but we were prevented from entering it by shoal

water.

The next point to the westward is Point Smith, and at the distance of a

mile from it, is a ledge of rocks on which the sea constantly breaks. We

passed close round the reef, and hauled into a very considerable opening

about six or seven miles wide, and at least five or six leagues deep. At

the bottom of this inlet was some higher land than usual, and among it

two flat-topped hills were very conspicuous. The eastern shore of the

port, for such it proved to be, is formed by a succession of rocky

points, between which were ranges of red cliffs, much higher than any we

had yet seen, and, if possible, more thickly wooded. As the day was far

spent, we anchored on the east side under one of the cliffs, and during

the night, the dismal howling of native dogs was heard close to the

vessel, a noise that was very frequently heard by us whenever we

anchored, and passed a calm night near the shore.

April 20.

The next morning, before we got under weigh, we landed at the mouth of a

small salt-water inlet, which trended in among the mangroves: having

climbed a hill, we had a distinct view of the bottom of the port, which,

at the distance of eight miles higher up, closed to a narrow opening, and

then widened to a spacious inner harbour. The country is here thickly,

and in some parts almost impenetrably, clothed with eucalyptus, acacia,

pandanus, fan palms, and various other trees; whilst the beaches are in

some parts studded, and in others thickly lined with mangroves. The soil

is chiefly of a gray sandy earth, and in some parts might be called even

rich; there were, however, very few places that could bear so favourable

a character. The climate seems here to favour vegetation so much that the

quality of the soil appears to be of minor importance, for everything

thrives and looks verdant.

Having returned on board we got under weigh, and steered for the narrow

opening at the bottom of the port. On reaching it, the water deepened,

but we were obliged to anchor, and sound the channel, before we succeeded

in entering the inner harbour, which we found to be a spacious sheet of

water, divided into two bays by a projecting cliffy point, which from its

situation was called Middle Head. There we remained at anchor until the

23rd, during which time the shores of the inner harbour were examined,

and visits made to various parts of it.

The shores of the inner harbour are thickly wooded to the beach, which is

fronted by mudflats, that at low water are dry for a considerable

distance.

On the western point of entrance, we found the remains of a wrecked

canoe, and upon further search Mr. Bedwell discovered a spear which was

altogether different from any that we had before seen; it was headed with

a sharp pointed splinter of quartz, about four inches long, and an inch

and a half broad; the shaft was of the mangrove-tree, seven feet eight

inches long, and appeared, from a small hole at the end, to have been

propelled by a throwing-stick; the stone head was fastened on by a

ligature of plaited grass, covered by a mass of gum: it was the most

formidable weapon of the sort we had ever yet seen.

April 22.

At the bottom of the western basin one of our people found the skeleton

of a human body; and the skull and some of the bones were brought on

board, but they were too imperfect to be worth preserving. The traces of

natives were found every where, but they did not show themselves. In one

of our excursions a tree was observed that had been cut down by some

sharp instrument, and we had afterwards reason to believe that the

natives were possessed of iron tools, which they might have obtained from

the Malays. A curious mound, constructed entirely of shells, rudely

heaped together, measuring thirty feet in diameter, and fourteen feet in

height, was also noticed near the beach, and was supposed to be a

burying-place of the Indians.

April 23.

Upon leaving the inner harbour we anchored in Knocker's Bay, on the west

side of the port, which received the name of Essington, a tribute of my

respect for the memory of my lamented friend, the late Vice-Admiral Sir

William Essington, K.C.B.: and in the afternoon we set off to examine an

opening in the mangroves at the bottom of the bay. After pulling through

its various winding channels for about a mile, where it was scarcely

broad enough for the boat to pass, its further investigation was given

up, and we commenced our return, but the mangroves were so thick, and

formed so impervious a net-work, that we had great difficulty in

effecting it. When about halfway towards the mouth, we found the boat

impeded by the roots of a mangrove bush; and whilst the boat's crew were

busily employed in clearing the rudder, we were suddenly startled by the

shout of a party of Indians, who were concealed from our view by a

projecting bush, not more than eight or ten yards from us: our situation

was rather alarming, from the boat being so entangled, and the river not

being broad enough for the oars to be used. No sooner had the natives

uttered the shout, than they leaped into the water armed with spears and

clubs; but the moment they made their appearance round the tree, two

muskets loaded with ball, and a fowling-piece with small shot, were fired

over their heads, which had the desired effect, for they gave up their

premeditated attack, and quickly disappeared among the bushes on the

opposite side, where they remained screaming and vociferating loudly in

angry threatening voices, whilst we were clearing the boat from the

bushes that obstructed our progress. Having at last effected this, we

proceeded on our way down the rivulet, and at the same time the natives

were observed through the bushes to hasten towards a low part, which we

were obliged to pass before we could reach the bay. But as we were aware

of their intention we were prepared for the event, and as was expected,

we were assailed by a shower of spears and stones from the natives, who

were concealed behind the mangroves. Happily, however, we received no

damage, although the spears and stones fell about us very thickly, and

several of the former struck the boat. A volley of musketry was fired

into the mangroves, but we could not ascertain whether any of the balls

took effect, since we could not see our assailants. A wound from one of

their stone-headed weapons, from our want of surgical knowledge, must in

such a climate have proved fatal, and we considered our escape truly

providential. As soon as we were out of the reach of their spears, which

they continued to throw until it was of no use, we hoisted the sail, and

steered round the shores of the bay. We had not proceeded far before

their canoe was observed secured to the beach by a small rope, which

offered so good an opportunity of punishing these savages for their

treacherous attack, that we landed and brought it away; and upon

examining its contents, we found not only their clubs, but also a large

quantity of bivalve shellfish, (Arca scapha?*) so that we had not only

deprived them of their boat, but of their supper, and three very

formidable clubs. This must have been a very serious loss to such simple

savages, but one that they richly deserved. The canoe was nearly new, it

measured eighteen feet in length, and two in breadth, and would easily

carry eight persons; the sides were supported by two poles fastened to

the gunwhale by strips of a climbing plant (Flagellaria indica), that

grows abundantly hereabouts, and with which also the ends of the canoe

were neatly, and even tastefully joined; the poles were spanned together

on either side by rope constructed of strips of bark. The canoe was made

of one sheet of bark, but in the bottom, within it, short pieces were

placed cross-ways, in order to preserve its shape, and increase its

strength. The description of a canoe seen by Captain Flinders at Blue Mud

Bay, in the Gulf of Carpentaria, differs very little from the above.**

(*Footnote. Lamarck tome 6 part 1 page 42. Chemn. Conch. 7 page 201. t.

55 f. 548.)

(**Footnote. Flinders Terra Australis volume 2 page 198.)

Whilst we were bringing away the canoe the natives, who had followed us

along the shore, were heard close by among the trees, loudly

vociferating, in which the ward ca-no-a was thought to be frequently

used.

April 24.

The next morning we sailed out of Knocker's* Bay, and anchored a little

within Point Smith, preparatory to our resuming our examination of the

coast. The heat was now by no means oppressive, for although the

thermometer ranged between 79 and 86 degrees, yet its effect was lessened

by the constancy of the breeze, which tended materially to preserve the

health of the crew, who were happily all quite well.

After anchoring, a squall that had been gathering all the afternoon burst

overhead, and was accompanied by heavy rain and strong gusts of wind,

during which a canoe that had been previously observed near the beach

drifted past the cutter; it was sent for and brought alongside, but the

next morning before we got under weigh, it was taken on shore, and hauled

up on the beach out of the reach of the water, and in it were deposited

several iron tools, to show the natives that our intentions were

friendly.

During our examination of Port Essington, we found no fresh water, but

our search for it did not extend beyond the precincts of the sea-beach,

since we were not in want of that article, having so lately completed our

stock at Goulburn Island; but from the number of natives seen by us, and

the frequency of their traces, which were encountered at every step we

took, there must be fresh water; and had we dug holes, we should

doubtless have succeeded in finding some, particularly in the vicinity of

the cliffs.

Wood is abundant and convenient for embarking, but the trees are

generally small: the waters are well stocked with fish.

As a harbour, Port Essington is equal, if not superior, to any I ever

saw; and from its proximity to the Moluccas and New Guinea, and its being

in the direct line of communication between Port Jackson and India, as

well as from its commanding situation with respect to the passage through

Torres Strait, it must, at no very distant period, become a place of

great trade, and of very considerable importance.

April 25.

Early the following morning we sailed out of Port Essington, and passing

round its western head, which was named out of respect to my friend

Admiral Vashon, we hauled into a bay where a Malay encampment was

observed upon the beach, with several proas at anchor close to it; but,

as the place offered us no inducement to delay, we steered round the next

head, and hauled into another bay, apparently about four miles deep and

two broad. The coast here appeared to take a decided turn to the

southward, and, as some land was observed on the western horizon, we

rightly concluded that we had reached the entrance of the Great Bay of

Van Diemen, the examination of which formed a prominent feature in my

instructions. The bay was named Popham Bay, and the extremity of the land

in sight received the appellation of Cape Don; the former after the late

Rear-Admiral Sir Home Popham, K.C.B., and the latter in compliment to

Lieutenant-General Sir George Don, K.C.B., the Lieutenant-Governor of the

fortress of Gibraltar. The two flat-topped hills, seen from Port

Essington, were also observed over the bottom of the bay, and being

conspicuous objects, were named Mounts Bedwell and Roe, after the two

midshipmen who accompanied me.

As we steered into the bay another division of the Malay fleet was

perceived at anchor on the eastern shore, close to an encampment: the

number of the proas were four; and as we considered ourselves a match for

this number, we determined upon remaining the night, and therefore

anchored about two miles without them, with our ensign hoisted at the

masthead over a large white flag, which was answered by each proa

instantly displaying Dutch colours.

Soon afterwards a canoe came from the proas, but it required some

persuasion to entice them alongside; when they did come, we showed them

Sir Stamford Raffles' letter, which they could not read, but on our

showing them our rough chart they instantly comprehended our employment,

and without further hesitation, two of them came on board. The canoe was

fitted for fishing; it was paddled by a man and five boys, and was

steered by a younger man, who, from his dress and authority, appeared to

be of some consequence amongst them. During their visit their curiosity

was much excited by everything they saw; and, having drank pretty freely

of our port wine, they talked incessantly. They remained with us three

hours, during the greater part of which their canoe was absent catching

fish. One of our visitors was very communicative, and by means of signs

and a few words of the Malay language, which we understood, he explained

that their Rajah's proa was armed with two small guns, and carried a

compass. On looking at our binnacle, they pointed to the north-west

rhumb, and made us easily understand that it was the course they always

steered on their return to Macassar.

Upon mentioning the natives of the coast and showing them the

stone-headed spear that we had found, they evinced their dislike to them

very plainly, they called them Maregas, Marega being, as we afterwards

found, their appellation for this part of the coast.

It was now growing late, and as the canoe had not returned, they hailed

their companions several times, but not being answered, they asked for a

musket, and fired it in the direction of their boat; this had the desired

effect, and it very shortly came alongside, but the crew had not been

successful, for they had caught only two small fishes which were

presented to us: they then took leave, repeatedly assuring us that the

next morning they would pay us another visit.

April 26.

But, without waiting for the honour they intended us, we got under weigh

early and left them to comment as they pleased upon our disappointing

them of the gunpowder, which, to get rid of them, we had promised to give

them the next morning.

Being under sail, we steered to the West-South-West, until the land

opened round Cape Don in an east-northerly direction for eight miles, and

then the coast trended to the south-eastward under Mounts Bedwell and

Roe, where the land was lost to view. To the westward the land was

observed trending in a north and south direction, and bore the appearance

of being an island.

The ebb now commenced setting out, and although we were going three knots

through the water, we made no progress over the ground. Seven miles West

by South from Cape Don we sounded in fifty fathoms on a bottom of

branch-coral, and four miles more to the westward we had but nineteen

fathoms. When the flood commenced, it was too dark to profit by it.

April 27.

And no progress was made until the next morning, when, having a fresh

breeze, we reached an anchorage in a bay on the north side, and close

under the base of Mount Bedwell. On our way we steered through strong

tide-ripplings in which, at times, notwithstanding the strength of the

breeze, the cutter was quite ungovernable. Off the bay is a low mangrove

island which I had the pleasure to name after the Reverend James W.

Burford, of Stratford, Essex, and the bay in which we had anchored was

called after W. Aiton, Esquire, of the Royal Gardens at Kew.

The bottom of Aiton Bay is shoal and apparently terminates in an inlet or

creek; at low water the tide left a considerable space dry that appeared

to extend from shore to shore.

Our distance from the beach was so short that the howlings of dogs were

distinctly heard, and other noises were distinguished which some of us

thought were made by natives, but they were more probably the screams of

birds.

April 28.

At daylight the next morning we steered round the land, and passing under

the base of Mount Roe, we entered a strait that separates it from

Greenhill Island; which is remarkable for having its north-west end

terminated by a conspicuous bluff. The coast now took an easterly

direction as far as the eye could reach, with a channel of from three to

eight miles broad between it and a range of islands (which were named in

compliment to the late Vice-Admiral Sir George Hope, K.C.B., then holding

a seat in the Board of Admiralty). At noon the tide began to ebb, when we

anchored near the land at about six miles east of Mount Roe.

The thermometer now ranged between 80 and 90 degrees, but the heat was by

no means oppressive.

April 29.

By the next day at noon we had penetrated four leagues within Sir George

Hope's Islands, when the water became so shoal that we could not approach

an opening that was seen in the land to the south-eastward; after trying

in several directions, the cutter was anchored, and Mr. Roe was sent to

sound in a south direction in search of a passage out; but, as it

appeared to be shoal and some parts were already dry, it was decided that

we should return by the way we came; since our object was not so much to

lay down the extent of the banks and directions of the channels, as to

find rivers, and trace the coastline. The opening to the South-East of

our anchorage certainly appeared to be sufficiently interesting to

examine, but we had formed very sanguine expectations of discovering

something of much greater importance at the bottom of the bay, and we

were naturally anxious to reach it as soon as possible.

On constructing the chart of this part of the coast, it appeared that the

land to the eastward of this anchorage is an isthmus four or five miles

in breadth, separating the body of water from the bottom of Mountnorris

Bay. The peninsula thus formed was honoured by the appellation of

Cobourg, after His Royal Highness Prince Leopold.

During the day large smokes were observed on the south horizon, without

any appearance of land near them.

1818. May 1.

On our way out we anchored under one of Sir George Hope's Islands, which,

on the occasion of our landing upon it the next morning (1st May), was

called May-day Island: it is about two miles long, and nearly the same

distance across; its formation appears to have been originally of sand

that has accumulated upon a rocky basis, and has gradually grown into an

island; it is thickly covered with a forest of dwarf trees and

impenetrable brushwood. Some recent impressions of a human foot on the

sand below high-water mark were seen, and several old fireplaces, and one

or two of more recent date were observed, around which were strewed the

remains of shell-fish repasts; the natives, however, did not make their

appearance.

When returning on board we endeavoured to pass out between May-day and

Greenhill Islands, but a bar of sand that appeared to stretch across

obstructed our progress: the weather being fine and the sea very smooth,

we endeavoured to force her over, but as we did not succeed, we anchored

for the night near our former position, to the eastward of Mount Roe.

May 2.

The next day we passed out between the Mount and Greenhill Island, and at

night anchored on the south side of May-day Island, at eight miles

distance from it.

May 3.

The following day we made some progress to the South-East, and by the

afternoon obtained a glimpse of some land bearing between South 3 degrees

West and South 18 degrees East.

May 4.

And at sunset the next evening the lowland was traced as far to the

southward as South-South-East, upon which several detached hills were

seen which probably may have some connexion with Wellington Range.

May 5.

The next day the cutter was anchored within a mile and a half of the

south point of a considerable opening, which the boats were prepared to

examine.

May 6.

And at daybreak we commenced its exploration, but the greater part of the

tide was expended before we reached the entrance, which is fronted by a

bank of mud on which there was not more than twelve feet water; the

depth, however, increased after we entered the river to four and five

fathoms; and as we proceeded up we found the channel to be seven and

eight fathoms deep. The banks on either side were very low; they were

composed of a soft mud, and so thickly lined with mangroves as to prevent

our landing until we had pulled up for seven or eight miles. At ten

o'clock the flood ceased and the ebb, setting with considerable strength,

prevented our proceeding higher up: here we landed, and after spending

some time in taking bearings and examining the country, we returned to

the cutter, which we reached early in the afternoon.

The banks where we landed were about two hundred yards apart, but were so

low and without a hillock to ascend or a tree to climb to enable us to

obtain a view of the country, that we could form but a very slight

opinion of the place. A sugar-loaf-shaped hill, which was also visible

from the anchorage, bore South 80 degrees East; at the distance of a

league was a rocky hill that bore North 88 1/4 degrees East; and, five or

six leagues off, was a range of hills extending from East by South to

South 27 degrees East. In all other directions the eye wandered over a

dreary, low, and uninterruptedly flat country; which in most parts is

covered with an arundinaceous grass.

The mangrove bushes on the banks of the river, which was quite salt, were

crowded with the nests of an egret, in which the young birds were nearly

fledged. Hawks, wild ducks, pelicans, and pigeons, were also abundant,

and an immense flight of white cockatoos hovered over the mangroves, and

quite disturbed the air with their hideous screamings. A small black

water-bird, about the size of a pigeon, with a white neck and a black

ring round it, was observed, but not near enough to enable us to

ascertain its species. On our course up and down the river we encountered

several very large alligators, and some were noticed sleeping on the mud.

This was the first time we had seen these animals, excepting that at

Goulburn Island, and, as they appeared to be very numerous and large, it

was not thought safe to stop all night up the river, which we must have

done had we remained for the next flood-tide.

No inhabitants were seen, but the fires that were burning in all

directions proved that they could not be far off.

May 7.

The next morning we were underweigh and steering along the coast to the

westward towards a low but extensive island; and, as we approached, we

found that it fronted a very considerable opening in the land, extending

into the interior under the eastern base of Mount Hooper. The channel

between the island and the main appearing clear, we did not hesitate to

pass through, and within half a mile of the island, where the channel was

evidently the deepest, we sounded in eight and nine fathoms. As soon as

we entered the opening it assumed a similar appearance to that of the

river we examined yesterday, but it was very much more considerable and

excited very sanguine hopes in our minds. Besides the low island

above-mentioned there is another of smaller size between it and the west

point of entrance; so that there are three entrances. The islands were

called Barron and Field Islands, after my friend, then presiding as Judge

of the Supreme Court of New South Wales.

As we proceeded, the depth continued to be so even, and to shoal so

gradually, that we ran up it for six miles, when, as it was near noon, we

anchored and landed on the eastern bank, to observe the sun's meridional

altitude; but, from the muddy state of the banks, we had great difficulty

in reaching the shore. On returning to the vessel, we sailed further up,

and, at high water anchored near the end of the first reach, and made

preparations for its further investigation. The tide then began to ebb at

the rate of three miles per hour, and continued with nearly that velocity

during the whole tide. During the evening our preparations were

completed.

May 8.

And, at daybreak the next morning, I set off with Mr. Roe and Mr.

Cunningham for my companions: when we left the cutter the flood was just

making, so that we had the advantage of the whole of the tide, which

lasted until noon, when we landed, and observed the latitude to be 12

degrees 38 minutes 47 seconds. Our situation was within three miles of a

hill bearing South 25 1/2 degrees West, the bearing of which having

previously been taken from the cutter's present anchorage, enabled me to

decide with tolerable accuracy upon the station we had reached.

This river, as far as we had examined it, a distance of thirty-six miles,

differed from the other only in being of larger size. At the place where

the latitude was observed, it was about one hundred and fifty yards wide.

From the anchorage the channel deepened from five to eight fathoms, and

this depth continued tolerably even and regular for nine miles. It then

began to decrease; and, at the furthest part we reached the depth at high

water was two and a half fathoms. The banks, which were in most parts

thickly lined with mangroves, and in no part more than three feet above

high-water mark, are formed of soft mud, which rendered landing, except

at high water, impossible. The country on all sides presented a low level

plain, the monotony of which was occasionally relieved by a few wooded

hills, and some groups of trees, among which the palm-tree was

conspicuous, and tended in a trifling degree to improve the view, which,

to say the best of it, was unvaried and heavy. The low land, at least

that part over which the fires had not passed, Was covered with a thickly

matted broom-grass; and, where it was burnt off, the soil was observed to

be composed of a hard and stiff clay, the surface of which bore the

appearance of having been frequently inundated, either by high tides, or,

more probably, by freshes in the rainy season.

We saw very few birds, and those were chiefly cockatoos; but alligators

were as numerous as in the other river, whence the name of Alligator

Rivers were bestowed upon them.

The water where we landed was fresh enough to be nearly drinkable, and

probably would be quite sweet at half ebb.

May 8.

The ebb-tide did not serve to carry us on board, and the boat's crew were

so fatigued by having been pulling all day, that we were obliged to drop

the grapnel within seven miles of the cutter to await the turn of tide,

so that it was not until midnight that we reached the vessel much

exhausted.

May 9.

The next day we left our anchorage, and took up a station within Field

Island, intending, if possible, to go through the passage between Barron

and Field Islands. At low water the banks dried for a considerable

extent.

May 10.

But as there was every appearance of the existence of a narrow passage

between the islands, we ran through the next morning at high water; and,

in passing the narrows, had over-falls between three and fifteen fathoms:

as soon as we reached a favourable bottom, we anchored in four fathoms in

order to await the uncovering of the shoals at low water, so that we

might see our way on, and construct the chart of this entrance with more

correctness. Field Island is low and thickly wooded, and is surrounded by

a rocky shoal which dries at low water, and extends to a considerable

distance off its North-West end. The smoke of a fire having been seen on

the island when we passed, it was presumed to have been at that time

occupied by natives.

Another opening was observed to the westward of the river we last

examined. and as it bore a similar appearance, the name of Alligator

Rivers was extended to it.

May 11.

The next morning we resumed our course to the westward; and, after

coasting along a low shore, anchored at night in the South-West corner of

the gulf, in three and a half fathoms; the land, from being so low, was

scarcely distinct, but it appeared to be sandy.

May 12.

The next day we passed a considerable opening, or, as it was thought to

be, a bight; for many patches of land were observed on the horizon: The

wind blew so fresh from the eastward that I did not venture to run into

it, but steered towards some land to the northward that formed the

northern boundary of the opening, and which proved to be that which had

been seen by us from Popham Bay; and as it afterwards proved to be an

island, it was called after the title of the noble Viscount, now First

Lord of the Admiralty.

The Gulf which we have now explored is that which was discovered by three

Dutch vessels that sailed from Timor in 1705, and to which they gave the

name of The Great Bay of Van Diemen. They entered it but did not reach

its bottom, having been very likely prevented by the strong tides which

in the entrance of Dundas Strait are altogether uncommon. From the nature

of the Alligator Rivers there is no doubt but that there are others of a

similar character that empty themselves into the Gulf between the

easternmost Alligator River and Sir George Hope's Islands, although they

are, probably, of smaller size and of less importance. At midnight the

cutter, drifted by the tide, passed close to the easternmost point of

Melville Island near to which two bright fires were burning.

May 13.

The next morning at eight o'clock we were within two miles of Cape

Fleeming, the north-easternmost extremity of the island; and, bearing up

along the north coast of Melville Island, passed close to Point Jahleel.

On a sandy beach to the westward of the last point two natives were

walking, but they passed on without noticing our presence. Eight miles to

the South-West of Point Jahleel is Brenton Bay, which we had nearly

passed before it was observed: the vessel was brought to the wind.

May 14.

But it was the next morning before we succeeded in fetching into the

opening. It terminates in an inlet which probably runs some little

distance into the interior of the island. It is about five miles deep,

but the depth is so trifling that we were prevented from running into it

far enough to obtain shelter from the wind. In the evening we anchored in

a picturesque bay which, although open to the north, offers a tolerable

shelter during the easterly monsoon: the beach is sandy, but is probably

shoal and of rocky approach. The country appeared verdant, and the hills

are thickly wooded; at the bottom of the bay a shoal opening trends in

between two hills, over which, in the evening, seven natives were

observed to cross in a canoe. This was called Lethbridge Bay. On the

western side of the bay is a range of cliff like the pipe-clay cliff of

Goulburn Island, the upper half being red, and the lower half white; and

four miles off the west point of the bay are two patches of rocks on

which the sea breaks; these were called the Madford Shoals.

May 15.

Twenty-five miles west from Lethbridge Bay is a projecting point from

which the coast takes a north-westerly direction. In passing a breaker

that lies off the point our cook fell overboard, but the boat was quickly

lowered and picked him up; for some time his life was despaired of, but a

little attention, and the warmth of the sun's heat, at last restored him.

On each side of the point which is formed behind Karslake Island is a

bay; and at the bottom of each there appeared to be a shoal opening. The

coast is here higher than usual, and is thickly wooded; but the coastline

to the northward is formed of high cliffs without much wood, and of a

remarkable white colour.

May 16.

The next morning we passed round Cape Van Diemen; and in the evening

anchored off a tabular-shaped hill that formed the south end of a sandy

bay. It was dark when we anchored.

May 17.

The next morning we found that we had anchored in the mouth of a very

considerable river-like opening, the size of which inspired us with the

flattering hope of having made an important discovery, for as yet we had

no idea of the insularity of Melville Island.

The table-shaped hill near our anchorage was named Luxmore Head, and the

bay to the north was called St. Asaph's, in compliment to the Right

Reverend the Lord Bishop of that diocese.

The day being Sunday our intention was, after taking bearings from the

summit of Luxmore Head, to delay our further proceeding until the next

morning, but the circumstance that occurred kept us so much on the alert

that it was anything but a day of rest. Having landed at the foot of the

hill we ascended its summit, but found it so thickly wooded as to deprive

us of the view we had anticipated; but, as there were some openings in

the trees through which a few distant objects could be distinguished, we

made preparations to take their bearings, and while the boat's crew were

landing the theodolite, our party were amusing themselves on the top of

the hill.

Suddenly however, but fortunately before we had dispersed, we were

surprised by natives, who, coming forward armed with spears, obliged us

very speedily to retreat to the boat; and in the sauve qui peut sort of

way in which we ran down the hill, at which we have frequently since

laughed very heartily, our theodolite stand and Mr. Cunningham's

insect-net were left behind, which they instantly seized upon. I had

fired my fowling-piece at an iguana just before the appearance of the

natives, so that we were without any means of defence; but, having

reached the boat without accident, where we had our muskets ready, a

parley was commenced for the purpose of recovering our losses. After

exchanging a silk-handkerchief for a dead bird, which they threw into the

water for us to pick up, we made signs that we wanted fresh water, upon

which they directed us to go round the point, and upon our pulling in

that direction, they followed us, skipping from rock to rock with

surprising dexterity and speed. As soon as we reached the sandy beach on

the north side of Luxmore Head, they stopped and invited us to land,

which we should have done, had it not been that the noises they made soon

collected a large body of natives who came running from all directions to

their assistance; and in a short time there were twenty-eight or thirty

natives assembled. After a short parley with them in which they

repeatedly asked for axes by imitating the action of chopping, we went on

board, intimating to them our intention of returning with some, which we

would give to them upon the restoration of the stand, which they

immediately understood and assented to. The natives had three dogs with

them.

On our return to the beach the natives had again assembled, and shouted

loudly as we approached. Besides the whale boat, in which Mr. Bedwell was

stationed with an armed party ready to fire if any hostility commenced,

we had our jolly-boat, in which I led the way with two men, and carried

with me two tomahawks and some chisels. On pulling near the beach the

whole party came down and waded into the water towards us; and, in

exchange for a few chisels and files, gave us two baskets, one containing

fresh water and the other was full of the fruit of the sago-palm, which

grows here in great abundance. The basket containing the water was

conveyed to us by letting it float on the sea, for their timidity would

not let them approach us near enough to place it in our hands; but that

containing the fruit, not being buoyant enough to swim, did not permit of

this method, so that, after much difficulty, an old man was persuaded to

deliver it. This was done in the most cautious manner, and as soon as he

was sufficiently near the boat he dropped or rather threw the basket into

my hand and immediately retreated to his companions, who applauded his

feat by a loud shout of approbation. In exchange for this I offered him a

tomahawk, but his fears would not allow him to come near the boat to

receive it. Finding nothing could induce the old man to approach us a

second time, I threw it towards him, and upon his catching it the whole

tribe began to shout and laugh in the most extravagant way. As soon as

they were quiet we made signs for the theodolite stand, which, for a long

while, they would not understand; at one time they pretended to think by

our pointing towards it, that we meant some spears that were lying near a

tree, which they immediately removed: the stand was then taken up by one

of their women, and upon our pointing to her, they feigned to think that

she was the object of our wishes, and immediately left a female standing

up to her middle in the water and retired to some distance to await our

proceedings. On pulling towards the woman, who, by the way, could not

have been selected by them either for her youth or beauty, she frequently

repeated the words "Ven aca, Ven aca," accompanied with an invitation to

land; but, as we approached, she retired towards the shore; when suddenly

two natives, who had slowly walked towards us, sprang into the water and

made towards the boat with surprising celerity, jumping at each step

entirely out of the sea, although it was so deep as to reach their

thighs. Their intention was evidently to seize the remaining tomahawk

which I had been endeavouring to exchange for the stand, and the foremost

had reached within two or three yards of the boat when I found it

necessary, in order to prevent his approach, to threaten to strike him

with a wooden club, which had the desired effect. At this moment one of

the natives took up the stand, and upon our pointing at him, they

appeared to comprehend our object; a consultation was held over the stand

which was minutely examined; but, as it was mounted with brass and,

perhaps on that account, appeared to them more valuable than a tomahawk,

they declined giving it up, and gradually dispersed; or rather pretended

so to do, for a party of armed natives was observed to conceal themselves

under some mangrove bushes near the beach, whilst two canoes were plying

about near at hand to entice our approach; the stratagem, however, did

not succeed, and we lay off upon our oars for some time without making

any movement. Soon afterwards the natives, finding that we had no

intention of following them, left their canoes, and performed a dance in

the water, which very conspicuously displayed their great muscular power:

the dance consisted chiefly of the performers leaping two or three times

successively out of the sea, and then violently moving their legs so as

to agitate the water into a foam for some distance around them, all the

time shouting loudly and laughing immoderately; then they would run

through the water for eight or ten yards and perform again; and this was

repeated over and over as long as the dance lasted. We were all

thoroughly disgusted with them, and felt a degree of distrust that could

not be conquered. The men were more muscular and better formed than any

we had before seen; they were daubed over with a yellow pigment, which

was the colour of the neighbouring cliff; their hair was long and curly,

and appeared to be clotted with a whitish paint. During the time of our

parley the natives had their spears close at hand, for those who were in

the water had them floating near them, and those who were on the beach

had them either buried in the sand, or carried them between their toes,

in order to deceive us and to appear unarmed; and in this they succeeded,

until one of them was detected, when we were pulling towards the woman,

by his stooping down and picking up his spear.

Finding that we had no chance of recovering our loss, we returned on

board, when the natives also withdrew from the beach, and did not

afterwards show themselves.

May 18.

The next morning we weighed with the flood and worked up the opening

against the wind for sixteen or seventeen miles, when the tide turned,

and we anchored in eleven fathoms. In most parts the banks were

inaccessible, being nearly overrun with mangroves; but the low appearance

of the country within and the mischievous disposition of the natives made

me less anxious to examine into the thick woods that surrounded us on all

sides. Wherever a clear space presented itself, the sago palm was seen

mixed with the fan palm, the pandanus and other trees, among which the

eucalyptus as usual appeared to be the most abundant.

May 19.

At eight o'clock the next morning we were again underweigh; and, with the

flood-tide in our favour, made rapid progress. The opening had, however,

become so much contracted, that it was found prudent to have a boat

hoisted out, with the kedge and a hawser ready if the vessel should get

on shore. After proceeding two miles further, it took a more easterly

course, and as we advanced the general direction of the reaches were east

and south. Our speculations ran high with regard to what it might be, and

the probability of its being a large river appeared to our sanguine minds

so certain that we never once fancied it could be otherwise; when

suddenly the open sea appeared, and, demonstrating it to be merely a

strait, at once dispelled our hopes.

Upon reaching between the two heads which form the south entrance of this

Strait, the tide turned, and, beginning to run so swiftly back that we

were prevented from getting out, obliged us very reluctantly to return to

an anchorage within, which was not easily found, as the bottom was rocky

and thickly studded with shoals. The anchor was at last dropped at three

miles within the entrance near an open cliffy bank, on which there were

two canoes hauled up, but no sign of their owners.

The night was squally, and the tide ran at the rate of nearly four knots.

May 20.

At low water the next morning the shoals were exposed, and showed us the

dangers we had unknowingly encountered in passing over them when they

were covered. The passages between them were found to be so intricate

that, after sounding them for some time, we gave up all idea of passing

out by the south entrance.

May 21.

And, returning by the way we came, the next day anchored near our former

position in St. Asaph Bay.

The Strait was named Apsley; and the land on the western side which had

thus been proved to be insulated was named in compliment to the Right

Honourable Earl Bathurst, his Majesty's Principal Secretary of State for

the Colonies.

May 22.

The day following we coasted the North-West side of Bathurst Island; and

at sunset anchored off a point from which a reef projects for a

considerable distance into the sea.

May 23.

The next day we anchored off an opening at the bottom of an extensive

bay, in three and a half fathoms.

It happened to be high water when we anchored; and, although we were

three miles from the shore, the tide of ebb reduced the depth so much

that there was reason to apprehend the cutter's being left dry at low

water; the depth was, however, ten feet and a half, which was only

eighteen inches more than the cutter's draught.

May 23.

The opening off which we had anchored was formed between two low, sandy

points, and trended in to the South-East; on the land at the back was a

long round-backed hill, which, when viewed from the northward, had a

flat-topped appearance.

May 24.

Having sounded the space between the anchorage and the shore, it was

found that we were on the outer edge of a bar, within which the water

deepened to five fathoms, and in the entrance there was as much as eleven

and twelve fathoms; we therefore weighed the anchor, and, the wind

blowing out, worked up towards the opening, which, as the tide was

flowing, it did not take long to effect. On passing the bar, we had not

less water than eleven feet (low water soundings), after which the depth

gradually increased. An anchorage was taken up in the evening within the

entrance.

May 25.

And the next day, after an attempt to reach further up, in which we only

succeeded to the distance of a mile, the examination was completed by our

boat.

It was found to run in, gradually narrowing and decreasing in depth for

eight miles, and to terminate in two salt-water creeks. The banks on both

sides were impenetrably lined with mangroves, which effectually defied

our attempts to land. Several creeks, communicating with the low

inundated land behind the mangroves, joined the main stream at intervals

on both sides; but they were not interesting enough in their appearance

to detain us. We returned to the cutter at night.

May 26.

And the next day shifted our berth to an anchorage close to the shore on

the north side of the entrance, for the purpose of wooding, where the

trees were so convenient and close at hand that we completed our stock

before dark.

During the evening, whilst we were occupied at the wooding-place, a party

of natives were observed running towards us along the beach on the south

side without the port, apparently returning from a hunting excursion, for

the woods on the south side of the bay had been on fire for the last two

days. As they approached they retired behind the beach among the trees,

and, upon their reaching the opposite side of the entrance, crept upon

their hands and knees behind the bushes, where they remained, as they

thought, concealed until the evening. A little before dark they were

observed to creep out and range themselves upon the beach, as if

meditating upon their plans for the night, but by this time it was so

dark that we could not see what they afterwards did; in order to deter

them from approaching us, a musket was fired over their heads, and if

this had the desired effect, it was a happy circumstance for them, for an

immense shark was caught in the middle of the night, which, from the

extraordinary capacity of its mouth and maw, could have swallowed one of

them with the greatest ease. On opening the animal, we fully expected to

discover the limbs of some of the natives, who we assured ourselves had

crossed over to our side the water; but we only found a crab that had

been so recently swallowed that some of our people made no hesitation in

eating it for their supper. The night passed without our being disturbed

by or hearing anything of the natives.

May 27.

But, at daylight, on looking at the place where they had been concealed

during the last evening, a canoe, which had been observed hauled up among

the bushes, was missing, and we concluded that they were close to us;

this proved to be the case, for no sooner had we cleared the point, than

the natives sallied forth from the thicket, and, running up to their

middles in the water to within thirty yards of the vessel, set up a loud

shout which startled us not a little; for, busied as we were in securing

the anchor and making sail, our attention at the moment was otherwise

directed; and the first intimation that we had of their vicinity was from

the noise they made, which was accompanied by violent gestures and

pressing invitations for our return; but we continued on our way, and

disregarded all their solicitations. They were evidently very much

disappointed, since they expected to get some axes from us, for they made

the same signs as the Luxmore Head natives had done by repeatedly

imitating the action of chopping. On the south shore there were some

women and children under the protection of two natives, whose voices were

also loudly raised for our recall. The natives on our side were unarmed,

but two bundles of spears were detected, propped up against a tree, close

at hand. After some time they waded back to the shore, and slowly walked

towards our wooding-place, where they, of course, found a chisel that had

purposely been left for them upon the stump of a tree which had been

felled by our wooding-party.

As soon as we crossed the bar we anchored, in order to obtain some lunar

distances to fix the longitude of the port, as well as to bring up and

complete the chart of this part of the coast. During the day, the natives

remained at our wooding-place, and set the bushes on fire, the smoke of

which enveloped the horizon and the neighbouring coast.

The names of Port Hurd and Mount Hurd were given to the harbour and the

round-backed hill, after the late Captain Thomas Hurd of the Royal Navy,

the Hydrographer of the Admiralty; the outer bay was called Gordon Bay.

May 28.

We left Gordon Bay the next morning, and passed round its low South-West

extremity, which proved to be Captain Baudin's Cape Helvetius. From this

point the coast trends to the southward to Cape Fourcroy. In this

interval the shore is formed by cliffs of a very dark red colour, and,

half way between, is a projecting sandhill of remarkable appearance.

May 29 and 30.

During this and the following day we made very little progress. On the

30th at daylight we had a southerly wind; by eight o'clock we saw the

land in patches to the northward, and some low islands bearing east. The

land to the north was a part of the south side of Melville Island. The

wind being fresh from the eastward we attempted to beat to windward, with

the intention of anchoring near the islands, but the bottom was too rocky

to admit of it. We then endeavoured to pass between them and Melville

Island, but the ground was also so rocky and irregular that we desisted;

and after an unsuccessful attempt to reach the southern pass, we steered

off to the westward. This group was called Vernon's Islands. They are

situated in mid-channel of the Strait that separates Melville Island from

the main, which was named in honour of His Royal Highness the Duke of

Clarence. The group consists of four low islands; they are each

surrounded by a belt of mangroves, and are probably connected by reefs to

the south shore.

May 31.

The next morning after a stormy night we steered to the northward, and

made the south entrance of Apsley Strait, which was recognised by the

peculiar shape of Buchanan's Islets lying off it, one of which has a

flat-topped summit.

The time had now arrived for our leaving the coast: our provisions were

drawing to an end, and we had only a sufficiency of bread to carry us

back to Port Jackson, although we had been all the voyage upon a reduced

allowance: our water had also failed, and several casks which we had

calculated upon being full were found to be so bad that the water was

perfectly useless: these casks were made at Sydney, and proved, like our

bread casks, to have been made from the staves of salt-provision casks:

besides this defalcation, several puncheons were found empty, and it was

therefore doubly necessary that we should resort to Timor, without any

more delay.

We therefore bore up, and at four o'clock the coast was lost sight of

from:

Latitude: 11 degrees 43 minutes 45 seconds.

Longitude: 129 degrees 47 minutes 0 seconds.

From this, having ran four miles and a half on a North-West course, we

passed over a small coral bank in thirteen fathoms; at eight o'clock, we

were in forty-two fathoms sandy mud.

1818. June 1.

But between midnight and four a.m., we passed over another coral bank, on

which the least water was eighteen fathoms.

June 2.

On the 2nd June, two small birds were caught; they proved to be the Java

swallow (Hirundo esculenta), the nest of which is esteemed as a great

delicacy, and is an article of trade between the Malays and Chinese.

Large quantities of pumice-stone were also seen floating on the water; on

one piece was found a sea centipede (Amphinome sp.), about four inches

long, covered with fine bristly hair; it was feeding upon two barnacles

(Lepas anatifera) which had attached themselves to the stone.

June 3.

This morning the high land of Timor was seen from North-North-West to

North-West 1/2 West; and at sunset the highest part bore North 70 degrees

West, 30 leagues off.

June 4.

At daybreak the 4th we were off the South-West point of the island, and

at nine o'clock entered the Strait of Samow; but, from light winds, we

did not get through it until after noon: at half past two o'clock we

anchored off the Dutch settlement of Coepang, at one-third of a mile from

Fort Concordia, the flag-staff of which bore South-South-East, in four

fathoms and a quarter brown sand and mud.