_4th January._—The vessels remained during the night towards

E.S.E. According to my usual custom, I breathed the fresh morning

air at the open window: but I flew from the room where gnats and

the besotted Feïzulla-Capitan had robbed me of my sleep, as soon

as day shewed itself through the red tinge of morning. I see at my

right hand a lake, and hear from the mast that the same extends on

the right to S. for half an hour, and is, from S.E. by E. to W.,

three-quarters of an hour long; that another joins to it towards N.,

cut off from the Nile by dry slime. We remarked also a third little

lake, a quarter of an hour distant, behind the before-named city. The

green grass ceases before us; on the right is noticed a wood behind

the lake, and on the left some trees of the right shore,—always a

friendly appearance to me in the landscape. We advance by the rope

at ten o’clock S.E. by E., and then on the right to S. At eleven

o’clock we move towards the left side of the river to gain better

ground for towing, although the east wind had become stronger, and

we could see before us the continuation of our course. The wind is

now always driving the vessels on the reeds, and the people tow only

with the greatest difficulty, the poles being continually used to

prevent us from running aground. At noon, to S. The south-east wind

blows so violently against us, that we hardly advance beyond the lake,

near which is a little village. We still see the herdsmen’s city,

at which we stayed yesterday. The lake, as is mostly the case here,

fills up the angle of the earth formed by the Nile in its present

circuit, and therefore cut off formerly by it in a straight line,

and perhaps is so now at high water. The main stream then makes good

its old right, on account of its greater fall, without tearing up

from their foundations the choked-up passes to the lakes; for these

old river-beds form, by means of that root-work of marsh plants,

a natural cofferdam, which is no more to be subdued.

To the east, we see on the right shore mists of smoke creeping over

the ground like Cain’s sacrifice, for they cannot rise out of the

vaporous atmosphere. There is also there a village, pushed back,

as it were, by the reeds struggling forward, and somewhat elevated

above the marsh region. The crew are very tired, and we halt above

the lake till three o’clock.

A small hamlet lies in our neighbourhood, and I see again cattle

dragged near to us. Now, at last, we shall have enough meat. Large

garlands of meat, cut in narrow strips, are passed already from one

rope to another, to be completely dried in the sun, according to the

usual custom in the Land of Sudàn. It is afterwards rubbed small on

the murhaka, and with the ground uèka, used for a favourite broth,

to be poured over the hard meal-pap (Asside), or over pancakes. This

abundance of meat must be followed by injurious consequences even to

these Saturnian stomachs, for the crew generally are not accustomed

to it.

I have again that lethargy, threatening, like the day before

yesterday, to turn to fever,—a thing that makes me the more uneasy,

because the Febris tertiana is not only very tenacious, but is also

here fatal. Last night I was delirious, fell asleep late, and awoke

at the moment of departure; the sun, just getting up, fell like

an enormous torch on my face, when I unwittingly threw back the

cloak with which I had covered it, on account of the gnats. At the

noise of the sailors and soldiers, I fancied that all was on fire,

and thought for a moment of the powder-room under me, without being

able, however, to rise.

At four o’clock we went E. by S., and I saw that the river wound

more southerly before us, so that we did not advance, and heard

that we must wait for the ships remaining behind, and lay to at the

left shore. I had the fever till about sunset, but not in a violent

degree. From my window I perceived, close to me, a large lake, over

which the setting sun hung like a ball of blood. I raised myself

up slowly on my legs, and really did not stand so weakly on them

as I had imagined when lying; but the perspiration was not by any

means subdued. I hoped, however, to recover this afterwards, and

had myself carried ashore. This setting foot upon land exercised

a peculiar influence, as after a tedious voyage. The main point in

these countries is not to lose courage, but to drag about one’s

sickly body so long as it can go; to stumble, fall, rise up

again,—anything, only not to remain lying in bed in fearful despair.

The dark margin of the Haba extended in a half circle between

the setting sun and the water, from N.W. to S.E., like a faithful

though somewhat distant attendant of the stream sunk down by his

Neptunian majesty. The lake, which runs parallel with the river,

and appears to have its greatest extension from S.S.E. to N.N.W.,

and is only divided from it by a narrow dam, four feet and a half

high. The tree-islands in this lake, the foundation and the ground

of which were concealed by the water, increase the picturesque and

heartstirring impression by their dark shade and play of colours

contrasting with the lake, glowing as if with fire! The landscape

towards the west is very much confined by the semicircular margin of

wood around the wide bay. An endless number of morass-birds swim or

stand around on the shallow spots, and find here the richest prey;

therefore, comparatively few birds are seen on the shores of the

Nile, which is here called “Kiati,” which is only a deviation

from Kidi or Kiti, as it was hitherto called. It became dark about

seven o’clock, and we went on S.E. Shortly before this bend, there

is on the left a village;—and now once more a pastoral hamlet,

near which runs a gohr of little breadth to N.E., probably connected

with the lake seen yonder on the right shore.

We also notice a village wherein Icthyophagi may dwell, for we

perceive no smoke from herds near it. We cast anchor, according

to our custom, in the middle of the river, to be more secure from

a surprise of these numerous free negroes; for our sentinels, in

spite of the bastinado, creep into their cowls and sleep, that they

may hear and see nothing of the swarms of gnats. We are now the more

upon our guard, because we have heard from these Keks that a nation

dwelling up the Nile, behind the Elliàbs, and who are said to exceed

the Shilluks in population, declared, after the former expedition,

that they would rather die with their powerful king than permit us

to pass. This intelligence made a very sensible impression upon the

Turks and Franks. Suliman Kashef, on the contrary, wishes only to see

this heroic king at a distance, and looks, with a smile, at his long

gun. As I know his disposition, and must fear precipitate violence

on our side, I try to make him understand that that king, if he is

determined to die, may first send at us an arrow or a spear. If they

will be our enemies and take to force, well and good. Even though

our soldiers may shoot badly, yet fifty negroes must fall at every

volley, for the vessels are our bulwarks, and they will come blindly

to the attack.

Suliman Kashef also quoted passages from the Koràn. At these

quotations, by which the commonest Turk feels himself authorised to

aspire to be a sultan, there came to my remembrance the beautiful

admonitory discourses which the French left to the brutal people,

during their glorious presence in Egypt. These began with passages

from the Koràn, in the Arabic, Turkish, and Persian languages,

and also in the French, thus: “Au nom de Dieu, clément,

miséricordieux, et très saint maître du monde, il fait de sa

propriété ce que lui plaît, et dispense à son gré de la

victoire.” Then, “que les armes ne servent à rien contre

la volonté de Dieu. Egyptiens, soumettez-vous à ses décrets,

obéïssez à ses commandemens, et reconnaissez que le monde est sa

propriété, et qu’il le donne à qui il lui plaît.” Or “tous

les biens viennent de Dieu; il accorde la victoire à qui il lui

plaît, &c.” They end generally in this manner, “Que le salut et

la miséricorde divine soient sur vous!” We laugh because they come

out of the mouth of a Frenchman, with whom, at that time the Lord

God was as good as deposed; but in the country itself we comprehend

the deep policy of these phrases. Wonder and astonishment seize the

traveller who recollects the Egyptian expedition, when he reads the

inscription of the conquering heroes on the island of Philæ.

CHAPTER X.

SHEIKH DIM. — CLUBS OF THE KEKS AND CAPS SIMILAR TO THOSE

OF THE ANCIENT EGYPTIAN PRIESTS. — RAPACITY OF THE CREW. —

TRIBUTARY LAKES. — HEIGHT OF THE SHORES. — THE TRIBE OF THE

BUNDURIÀLS. — DUSHÒÏL, THE KEK, ON BOARD SELÌM CAPITAN’S

VESSEL. — HIS SIMPLICITY. — TOBACCO PLANTATIONS. — THE GREAT

SHEIKH OF THE BUNDURIÀLS. — FISHING IMPLEMENTS OF THIS TRIBE. —

THEIR TOKULS, AND GIGANTIC SIZE OF THE MEN. — ANTELOPES OF THE ARIEL

SPECIES. — APATHY OF THE CREW, AND INDIFFERENCE AT THE LOSS OF THEIR

COMPANIONS. — PHILOSOPHY OF A NATIVE. — SINGULAR CONTRAST BETWEEN

THE FEATURES OF THE SHEIKHS AND THE OTHER NEGROES. — NATION OF THE

BOHRS. — THIBAUT’S BARTER. — REED-STRAW ON FIRE, AND DANGER TO

THE VESSELS. — FATALISM OF THE TURKS. — GREETING OF THE NATIVES:

THEIR SONG OF WELCOME.

5th January.—At sunrise we sail E.S.E., and see immediately,

on the right shore, a herdsman’s, or man’s village, to which

a woman’s village, with thirty-three regular tokuls, joins, and

where I saw seven sürtuks lying behind the houses. We wait again

for cattle above the village, and I remark among the crowd of people

our dear and faithful sheikh of Dim, or Dièm, who seems to wish to

accompany us through his kingdom: he is very easily recognised among

the ash-coloured men, even from a distance, by his red shirt. Not to

offend the good people, we went ashore again. The majority of the

Keks still wear their ivory rings round the upper part of the left

arm, and likewise have only one hole in their ear. They made their

appearance here without weapons; but brought, however, clubs of ebony,

decreasing in thickness towards the top and bottom, fluted, and about

two inches thick in the middle. In order to grasp them more firmly,

there was not only a thong of leather for the grip, but also a ring

of skin, or of the inside bark of a tree, woven around the handle. I

saw here a pair of felt caps, rising to the top in the form of a bomb,

and thick enough to ward off a blow from a club. This is the second

time that I have seen a covering for the head exactly similar to the

cap of the ancient Egyptian priests. These children of men have,

however, a dreadful and truly horrible appearance, for the face,

through the black patches of perspiration and the white crust of

ashes, is like black-veined marble; although the form of the body,

generally six feet high, and even of the head, notwithstanding the

mouth projects a little among the generality of them, is not at all

amiss; yet, perhaps, on the whole, it may be a little clownish.

At eight o’clock we advance with libàhn farther to E.; then the

Nile winds to the right, and we are, at nine o’clock, S.E. Here

we see on the right shore a gohr, that may be compared to a large

millbrook. The negroes seem to consider this gohr as a boundary

where they can see us once more and wish us farewell. Yet there is

only one who lays his hands crossways on his shoulders, bends his

body forward, and lets it fall upon his knees. This truly has a very

humble appearance, and may be an Ethiopian bow. We have already lost

the charm of novelty in the eyes of the people: they see that we

eat and drink like themselves, and, by the bye, rob and steal; that

everything suits us which is of great value amongst them, and that

they must content themselves with a few beads when once the booty is

in Turkish or Arabian hands. If we consider this nation, we start

the question, how is it possible that it could have remained from

eternity in this primitive grade of civilisation? From what mountains

have they descended? The surface of the earth here is scarcely even

now capable of receiving and supporting colonies of such a nature;

perhaps their earlier settlements were beyond the old shores in the

Gallas and Habas.

Whilst we come slowly up the river, the negroes remain standing

right and left on the shore; they do not sing and jump, and we

remark no astonishment in their faces. The next question which they

put to themselves may perhaps be, “What do these strangers want

here? What can they wish but our riches?” Let us ask the first

best Turk or Arab what are we doing here? He knows not; he does not

comprehend the aim of such an expedition, where there is no robbery,

no plunder, no kidnapping. Turks do not think that any colonisation is

possible, for their own country is already too extensive for them,

and will remain so, indeed, till a perfect regeneration of it by

conquering nations. Immeasurable tracts of land lie here vacant and

uncultivated; but only the negro, baked as he is, can stand the heat

of the sun. _He_ must, however, sacrifice to the climate the greatest

number of his teeth; this alone shews the diseases peculiar to the

marsh regions.

It is surprising that I nowhere see any elephants’ tusks, though

said to be so common here. About half past ten o’clock, S.S.E. On

the right a lake, running tolerably even with the river, narrow at

its southern point, more than an hour long, and three-quarters of

an hour broad. The Haba, with its videttes of old shores behind,

draws nearer before us. The right shore is a vast semicircle,

circumscribed by isolated trees, with many green grass-plats, pools,

ambaks, and a kind of acacia, with yellow clusters of flowers,

like the gold-rain of the laburnum. To judge from the many pools,

the river does not appear yet to have receded entirely, although the

nearest shore-land is already burnt away, right and left. We sail

half an hour, but the northern wind is too faint, and we come to its

assistance by towing. The stream is about five hundred paces broad,

and does not seem here to receive any tributaries.

A number of birds of prey pursue our vessels, in order, by a bold

attack, to seize the meat strung on lines. We know, even at a

distance, when a village is deserted, because it is immediately

taken possession of by these legions of the air, and rummaged in

all corners, in a very impudent manner. The natives on both shores

have here directly at hand another free and worthy position. _A long

village_, on the right shore, was by way of a joke called Dennap

(tail). The first group consisted of thirty-five tokuls, on elevated

ground; we only saw there old women and two old men. Our sailors,

who were towing, immediately shot at the vultures whirling round

over us through the village—forced open the doors of the huts, made

of reeds or animal skins, and stole the hides lying there for beds,

and whatever else was near. My loud abuse and threats brought them,

however, into something like reason. This tokul group was followed by

a double and threefold row of tokuls, about one hundred and twenty

in number, on the high border of the river; therefore it had the

appearance of an artificial dam, but may perhaps have been elevated

gradually by the rudera of the tokuls themselves. A herdsman’s

village joined on to the tokuls, numbering only thirty-one huts,

and some square sheds, the flat reed-roofs of which were covered with

earth and ashes. Negroes sat under them to be protected from the sun,

and allowed us quietly to draw near, without making “Fantasie,”

as our men wished. We stop near the village till three o’clock:

its inhabitants appear mostly to have fled. We then advance for a

time libàhn, and halt again, without any object.

At five o’clock we again advance to the south, for the natives

do not shew themselves. On the left we notice one, and on the right

two, lakes. We see, from the mast, at the distance of a quarter of

an hour, a lake of an hour long, and half of that in breadth; and

some hundred paces at the side of the left shore, a lake, not broad,

but, judging from the green grass, about two hours’ long. Behind,

towards the west, another lake shews itself, on the margin of which

the Haba recedes about an hour and a half; and behind us also,

on the left shore, a third lake to N.W. In front, towards S.S.W.,

a lake, behind which another, in S.S.W., in the obtuse angle formed

by the river there to the right shore; therefore, at one glance we

observed _five lakes_ on the left shore, joining, very certainly,

at high-water, and taking up an enormous space. There is no tree to

be seen on the left to announce the far-distant right shore; yet a

margin of wood shews itself in the distance on the left from E.S.E. to

W. The air appears to be clearer, for I see the smoke, in many places,

ascending straight up. At sunset we have the lake at our side, which

lies, at five o’clock, S.S.W. of us, and behind it another strip of

water flashes up in the south. From S. we go again in a semicircle to

E. and N.E., and immediately again southward. We sail, indeed, since

five o’clock, but have made, deducting the water-course, which has

gradually got up again to a mile in rapidity, scarcely half a mile in

the hour. At seven o’clock, E.N.E., and at eight o’clock S. by E.,

and soon afterwards from W.S.W. to S. and S.E. to E., from E. to S.W.,

E.S.E., and N.E., sometimes with the sails, sometimes libàhn, equally

quick, for the north wind is very slack. In the level extensive arch,

S. by W. to S.S.W., at last we halt at the corner, where the river

winds to N.E. A large lake twinkles here on the left shore. The

river retains, generally, a breadth of about five hundred paces;

its depth is here two fathoms and a half. This seldom amounts to

more than three, and was to-day, in one part, only two fathoms.

Nevertheless, the river always contains a large quantity of water,

for the shores, precipitous and deep, nearly fall away in a right

angle. It is surprising that we have not yet found a flint, or

any other stone, in the Nile sand. The Mountains of the Moon must

therefore be still far distant from us. The thermometer, at sunrise,

20°, at ten o’clock 26°, at twelve o’clock 27°, and rose till

three o’clock to 29°. After sunset, 26°, a heat too great for me,

as I was not well; although I had borne, at Khartùm, on the shores

of the Blue river, a heat of 42° to 45° throughout the hot days;

and was subsequently to endure, in the city of Sennaar, for three

days, at three o’clock in the afternoon, 48° Reaumur.

_6th January._—The Haba goes to the east, under the horizon,

in the position in which we cast anchor this morning to S.S.W. It

seems, therefore, that we shall approach again the firm line of

the left old shore, by surprising windings; for the right has

been unfaithful. Nothing is to be seen of it except the high bed

of the primitive river, or a valley watered by the stream, partly

laid on dry ground, over which the Nile flows, from time to time,

with its waves, or rolls here and there into it at its pleasure. We

proceed with libàhn around the corner mentioned, to N.N.E., but,

after a short time, with a sharp wind, to E.S.E., where the river is

remarkably contracted. An hour from the left shore is a large lake,

wherein are fishermen; close to us a large fish-pond. The stream has,

by the choking up and alteration of its bed, left behind numberless

such fish-ponds, in a greater or smaller degree. The Icthyophagi

only need for the in and out letting of the Nile water, to keep open

the canals connected with the stream, so as to have continually an

abundance of fish. From E.S.E. we go in a shallow bend again to S.E.,

where we spread sails.

Now, at eight o’clock, again in this circle, to S.W. by W., and

we came in this manner closer to the old wood, as I had previously

conjectured. The river appears really by this means to wish to keep

more to the left old shore; for even the right side of the reeds is

here generally higher than the left. It is clear, and the evidence

of the eye-sight teaches us, that the shores, in almost all places

where old or choked-up water-courses do not run into the land, are

remarkably higher than the surface of the earth immediately behind,

as is plainly perceived in the stream territory of the _United

Nile_, which has been cultivated for thousands of years. The latter

especially struck me when, on my return to Egypt, I met with newly dug

canals, which were yet without bridges, and their banks so sloping,

that I was often obliged to ride up towards the mountains or along

their channel. The bed of the canal was always lower up the country,

although it lay on an equal line with the mouth of the Nile. This

rise in the bed of the stream exactly explains here, as well as

in Egypt, the inundations. They form then, in connection with the

tropical rains, numberless sloughs, ponds, and lakes, which must

collect and completely evaporate in these long basins, were they

not artificially diverted by the natives for the purpose of fishing,

through incisions in the shore-dams, when the Nile falls.

Half-past eight o’clock. From S.W. by W. we go in the circle on to

S., E., N. to N.W. by W., where we lay-to at ten o’clock. It only

wanted 85° of a perfect circle. From this gyration, forwarding

but little our journey, we go in a bend to N., and then to E. A

gentle north wind sets in, called even by the crew, Hauer badlàhn

(faint wind). My good countryman, who ought to refresh me again,

is really extremely weak, and deserts us entirely in a quarter of

an hour. Suddenly the wind blows against us from the south; and it

would be an evil thing for our voyage if south winds should now set

in, although we must not expect constancy in the winds in these

equatorial regions of Central Africa, judging from our present

experience of them. Eleven o’clock, to S.E.; twelve o’clock,

S.S.E. A city with several tokuls seems to obstruct our road, and,

as it were, to invite us.

We stopped, therefore, in a south-easterly direction before three

o’clock, near the well-built village, which, at a distance,

appears larger than it is; it numbers thirty-five tokuls, and is

named Papio, and is the first village of a tribe calling themselves

Bunduriàls. The name of the sheikh who came to meet us at the shore

is Wadshia-Koï. On the right shore, up the country, the Tutui are

said to dwell, but no huts are to be seen there. These Bunduriàls

speak the language of the Keks,—a dialect closely allied to that

of the Dinkas. In their powerful form of body they are also similar

to the Dinkas, only better built; and their women smaller than the

giant forms of the Dinka women, with their angular shoulders. Almost

all the people here had a white feather in the black hair-bonnet on

their heads. The latitude is, according to Selim Capitan, 5° 11′.

The river, which for some days has decreased in depth, amounts

to two fathoms and a half, near the village of Papio, and,

as I ascertained myself, to only two higher up. This is truly a

considerable difference compared with the lower course of the river,

but there always remains still a large mass of water in the breadth of

two hundred to three hundred paces, near the precipitous falling-away

shores. The rapidity of the river remains, on an average, one mile,

yet less where the water is deeper. I have been since noon with

Suliman Kashef and Feïzulla, on board Selim Capitan’s vessel. The

latter has continually a sailor on the mast, and has counted eight

lakes from yesterday noon till to-day. At half-past five o’clock

libàhn to S.S.E., where a small lake is perceived on the left

shore. A little after sun-set we halt for a moment, because the men

are nearly worked to death with towing in the reeds, which are twice

the height of a man. The thermometer, shewing before sun-rise 24°,

and at noon 28°, had got up at three o’clock to 32°, and fell at

sun-set to 30°. We went very slowly with a gentle north wind to S. by

W., to N.E., and then right round to S.S.W. Selim Capitan is really

very attentive at his post, although his momentary activity arises

partly from our presence. I praise him, by way of encouragement,

to induce him to go on as far as we can. About half-past six

o’clock, we sailed with the wind blowing fresh S.S.W., and had

three miles’ course, in a wide bend to S.E., till eight o’clock,

and at half-past eight S.W., where a small island lay on our right;

then a short tract S.E., and lastly E.

Selim-Capitan has a native on board, who is of the race of the Keks,

and whose home was at Bakàk, near the village of Dim. His name is

Dushóïl; he is a jolly old dog, with a half-blind eye. He journeyed

with the expedition last year, and seems to have a natural talent for

languages, for he managed to make himself understood generally with

our blacks. I am able, therefore, to learn something from him. He

calls the Nile “Kir,” and not Kiati, or Kiti; but I cannot vouch

for it that I have rightly caught his pronunciation, incredible as

this may appear. Water to drink, is “Piju;” good, “affiàt,”

and “abàt;” bad, “arrashd,” or “arràdsh” (spoken with a

humming sound); nothing, “liju;” to eat, “tshiàn;” mountain,

“kur;” come, “Bà;” Hallo, men, “Ajajà!” His countrymen

do not appear to be idol worshippers, and recognize a great God,

who dwells much higher, or is like the mast of the ship, which he

always pointed at to express His grandeur.

The name of the great Mek of the Keks is Kajòk: he does not know

where he dwells, or perhaps may not wish to say, as well as many other

things on which he was asked. It is probable that I was right in my

former assertion, that their king is called Ajol, and his village

Gòg, for he may connect both words in his indistinct language. He

treats his own name also in a similar manner, by appending the

word Dim, and then calls himself Dsholi-Dim. The Keks, as also

the Bunduriàls, take the iron for their spears and arrows from

the region of Arol, the mountain of which lies towards the west,

and cannot be seen here, owing to the trees. Another tribe dwells

there. From this place they fetch their copper for the few earrings

that they wear, and upon which they do not seem to lay any particular

value. I was glad that I was at his elbow for some time, although the

coarse jokes of the Turks, in which even Selim-Capitan’s servants

took part, annoyed me. He is a good fellow, and is obliged now to do

at Rome as the Romans do. He could not pronounce C in the alphabet,

but always said T, and swelled the tone at every repetition, without

being able to come nearer to the pronunciation. He sang, screamed,

and danced just as one wished: meat dried in the sun was given him;

but he soon said, laughing, “Arrádsh,” because it agreed with

his teeth as little as the dry biscuit did. A pipe was brought him

to smoke, but the crew had filled it at the bottom with powder,

which exploded; on account of this, he would not smoke any more,

and was afraid even of a lantern, when one was brought close to

him. Soon afterwards, he took the ashes from all the pipes, and put

them in his mouth with the burnt tobacco. Hereupon I gave him some

tobacco in his hand, which he kneaded together into a quid, and took

in his mouth. A roasted leg of mutton was afterwards handed to him,

and the cat immediately approached. He fairly divided it with her,

and took great pleasure in this animal, because it could climb up

the ropes. Then he was a long time enticing two young goats, by

whistling, and calling “Suk-suk-suk,”—nature’s sounds, even

used by us—and played with them as if they were his children. One

of his principal songs began with “Abandejo,” and he managed to

imitate the chorus, “Wai, wai, Abandejo,” &c.

Suliman Kashef had played some coarse Turkish jokes on him; he was

offended for a moment, but he soon slid on his knees to him, in order

that the latter might spit on the back and palm of his hands. He

played the buffoon, because he had been once mad. Some time since,

they hung beads round him, and put on him a shirt reaching to his

stomach, and he had so raved about with joy, that he became at last

sleepy, went into the cabin, and lay down upon Selim Capitan’s bed;

but he was soon hunted out of that, and they made a bed for him under

a cannon, to keep him safe from the further bantering of the crew. He

is a commoner of nature, and so they all appear to me to be, but far

from being savages,—and less barbarous, indeed, than many Europeans,

who are clothed from head to foot. He was very much delighted with

an Arabic song; I could see it by his face; now he comes nearer

with more confidence, claps his hands, and shouts “Abàt,” or

bravo! He wanted to learn it, and caught the tune rightly; but they

laughed at him, and he became quiet again. Selim Capitan and I tried

to imitate the idiom of his language; he thought he really understood

something every now and then, and wanted even to correct us.

I saw, the day before yesterday, and previously, some tobacco

plantations close by every tokul. I looked for this plant in vain

to day at the two villages; perhaps it was already gathered. At nine

o’clock, on the right, the village of Angort, or rather _Awargot_;

which, as usual, was divided into a male (or herdsmen’s) and

female village. Ten o’clock to the south; before the left shore an

island,—course three miles and a half. At eleven o’clock S.S.W.,

we approach Arnaud’s vessel; he is on the point of furling sails,

notwithstanding the favourable east wind. Selim Capitan habitually

of a somewhat timorous nature, inquired of him whether he wishes to

anchor here; without understanding his answer, he was also about

to follow his example and halt, when I asked him whether he was

commander or not. We sail on, therefore, and Arnaud is obliged,

_nolens volens_, to follow. A little after midnight we cast anchor

near the village of Aujan, and stood to the South.

_7th January._—In the morning we landed on the left shore, where

the great sheikh of the Bunduriàl nation presented himself as an old

friend, being already known by the preceding expedition. He was of

colossal figure, above six feet high, had a handsome aquiline nose,

and a truly expressive physiognomy: about thirty years of age; naked,

according to the custom of his ancestors. He was only distinguished

from the others by wearing unusually large ivory rings on the upper

part of the arm. His name is Biur. A red shirt and coral beads

having been presented to him, he went away to procure meat, and

to send messengers up the river to prepare a favourable reception

for us. Behind this village of Aujan a large lake extends from

N.N.W. to S.W., and a serpentine canal, some thirty feet in width,

before the village, pours into it. Several people were moving on

this long lake to catch fish: their implements were fish-baskets,

of a whole, or half form, or mere wicker-baskets, which they dipped

into the lake and quickly drew up again.

To judge from the ground inclining gently, as if in a flat dish,

and from those trees, forming the arch from N.N.W. to S.W., being

the forerunners of a thicker Haba, a very large lake must be filled

here at high water. The greatest part of the water is afterwards

let off, for the sake of fishing, through the before-named canal. An

immeasurable quantity of water, generally, is collected in the low

lands, according to all the appearances which I myself have found

of such ponds in my short excursions into the neighbourhood. These

always exercise a lasting effect on the lower height of the water

of the White Stream, by their nearly simultaneous draining off,

whilst they contribute mostly during the inundation to the sudden

swelling of the White Stream by their connection with it. The tokuls

of this village, which is called Auan or Auwan, are not badly built,

but have low walls; the point of the roof also is not high. The lower

wall, being of reeds, and plastered with Nile slime, is only three

and a half or four feet high. The door is square here instead of

the usual oval form; it is constructed of reeds, and before it are

two stakes fixed in the ground, supporting a cross stake. Almost all

the tokuls have a little porch before this door, which is covered by

the roof being extended over it. The outer door is therefore lower

than the inner one, and the inmates are compelled to crawl into

the house. Generally, on the White Nile, it is necessary to stoop

very much to enter the tokuls. The roof is indented according to the

length of the straw bound up in hoops, and to the height of the roof

itself; it has from five to eight separations. The point of the roof

is covered, as I before remarked, by a gourd-shell, opening at the top

and bottom, and forms a broad ring, in which the slender beams join.

Part of the people sat or stood there; only a few collected round

our vessels. Many of them carried a long reed, instead of the spear,

in their hands. They would not allow themselves to be measured,

and continued to avoid me. I gave my servants three reeds of six,

six and a half, and seven feet long, to stand near the natives,

and by this means I ascertained their height. The average amounted

to from six to seven Rhenish feet.[8] We ourselves were like pigmies

among these giants. I might stretch myself to the utmost, but I could

not come up to these men, though of the _considerable_ height of five

feet, two inches, four lines. The village numbers only twenty-eight

to thirty tokuls, and lies along the shore to S.S.E. We sail away

at eight o’clock, and in five minutes find a herdsmen’s village

on our right side, and immediately afterwards another, near which

the river winds to E., and we advance with libàhn. It is a large

pastoral village, and appears to belong, with the preceding ones,

to Aujan. The few tokuls of Aujan must serve the herdsmen, in the

rainy season, as a place of refuge, for they lie tolerably high.

This morning, early, there were clouds in the sky, as is now generally

the case; but still it is very warm, and we had, shortly before

sunrise, 22° Reaumur. When I consider the endless labyrinths of

the White Stream, and the eternal slackening of the winds, I fear

that we shall never arrive at the sources of the White Nile. The

stream is, as it were, without a border in the rainy season, and

towing then is an impossibility, even if the south winds connected

with it should not be violently against us. Yet I cannot resist

the thought that it is not only possible to discover the sources,

but also to scale the mountains lying to the south, of which all

these tribes speak, and to pass over in some other stream territory

to the Western Ocean. These thoughts occupy my mind when I sit at

night before the cabin, and indulge in the reflection of such a bold

undertaking, and one that would not be depreciated by the scientific

world. My men are enraptured at such a proposal; but dare I confide

in their courage? Yes, for if I did not, I should have turned them

off long ago.

We remarked a group of trees at a long village situated on the left

side of the river, containing sixty-five to seventy tokuls; and near

it we go further east, the Haba before us, receding in S.S.W. I look

at the village closer, and find that the very diminutive huts near

the large tokuls, are not, as our men thought, for the children,

but for the young cattle, and that this village has many straw or

reed huts behind it for the pastoral men. Every thing is burnt down

at our right hand, and only on the left is the border of the Nile

still festooned by reeds and creepers; it is here not above three

feet high. The enormous plain, in which is distinguished, from the

mast, three lakes at the last point of the Haba to S.S.W., stood,

therefore, entirely under water, although we perceive now numerous

cattle and a large summer village in the centre. On the left also

we see, from the mast, a lake and a village, about half an hour

from the right shore. The large half-moon on the right has still

green spots on every side, defying the fire with their pools. The

land (if I may use this expression to distinguish it from the plain

subject to the inundation, the secondary shores of which have become

secure by the stream having fallen very much) is about three hours’

distant. The before-mentioned group of trees stands isolated behind

the left shore; the latter is somewhat elevated; yet the old shore,

said to approach before us again, recedes far into the above-named

higher tract of land.

Ten o’clock. We have mastered the bend to S.W. by W., and sail

now with north wind to S. A sand-bank forms the point of this

bend. Yesterday afternoon, and previously, it occurred to me that here

also the right side of the river, in an easterly direction, is nearly

always marked by higher shores; but to-day this was very apparent,

for the difference amounts to four feet. This is more evident because

the reeds and grass are burnt away. Behind the above-mentioned group

of trees, near which we perceive a number of overgrown ant-hills,

I saw again the blue trees of the right shore, like the friendly

appearance of old acquaintances. For a long time nothing has emerged

on that side except from the elevated point of view on the mast. It

depends upon the changeable humour of the river whether they come

nearer to us or not. Between the dark blue margin of this wood we

perceive a long glimmering water-tract. Some ten minutes’ later

to S.E., at our right hand, a herdsmen’s village. Again, on the

right, round to the S., up to W. In the interior of the country three

villages, an hour long; but at a distance between the Haba, which

appears to be very thick and woody, water is still visible, possibly

in connection with the lake. This is at half-past ten o’clock; four

miles. At eleven o’clock S.E.; on the right a pastoral village,

on the left another. The north wind has veered, and we go, about

twelve o’clock, libàhn, in E.S.E. The wind changes about two

o’clock to our advantage: we sail from E.S.E. to S. and W.S.W.

At three o’clock we halt in S.E. by S. At half-past three o’clock

we go S.S.E. A tokul city of one hundred and five dwellings is on the

left, upon an island of two hours and a half long, commencing already

when we were in S. On the left shore a lake about three hours long

extends to the distant Haba, connected with the river by a narrow

canal. Somewhat more behind we see two more lakes, and at a little

distance on the right another city. On the left shore and the lake

some tokuls, with flat arched roofs and round doors. E. and E. by

S., towards S.E., is a village of thirty tokuls, some paces from the

shore, by it a lake, and behind this the other lake, which I stated

to be a water-tract, still continues.

We go quickly, with four miles’ course in S.W. by W., but also round

a corner to E. We halt at half past five o’clock to N.N.E., where,

on the right, there is a lake with a village. The before-named lake,

of about three hours long, on the left shore, extends still far with

the river, like a deserted bed of the stream, as we saw by the green

strips, and the numbers of white and light coloured birds, that had

encamped on its margin. If we consider somewhat more accurately,

as I have already remarked, the main direction of these lakes, so

far as the prospect from the vessel allows, we find that they always

form chords, diameters, and tangents of the elliptical and circular

windings of the present stream. On the right and left, a number of

elephants are quite close to the shore, without being disturbed by

us, and even the many light-brown antelopes remain quietly standing,

and gaze at us. They are of the ariel species, of which also there

are many in Taka; their flesh is very savoury.

We have done with sailing, and take refuge again in towing. The

above-named intersections of the curves formed by the river are seen

plainly on both sides. I had already thought that Suliman Kashef could

not withstand the sight of the ariels. We stop on the right, at the

shore just where the river winds from N.E. to N. The extreme edge

of the shore is broken off precipitately to a height of five feet,

as also on the right side of the river. The antelopes retreated as

soon as the noise of the vessels reached the shore. The reeds are by

no means to be trusted, because large beasts of prey are in the habit

of taking up their position there, in order to rush upon the antelopes

as their certain prize, when the deer go to water at sunset. A few

soldiers, therefore, were sent forward for our protection.

On our return from the chase, during which not a shot was fired,

we lost two bàltashi (carpenters or sappers) in the reeds, without

our being able to recall them, though signal-shots were fired. They

were Egyptians, steady men, and therefore we could not at all suppose

that they had deserted. Notwithstanding this, the crew only looked

for these men in the neighbourhood, shrugged their shoulders, and

supposed that the assad or nimr (lion or tiger) had eaten them. The

word _nimr_ cannot, properly speaking, mean tiger here, for there

are no tigers, as is well known, in Africa; but it is the general

expression for panthers and leopards, as _fagged_ for the lynx. At

eight o’clock we sail on again to S.E., and make four miles. The

river is here again about 400 paces broad. At nine o’clock, when

we go S., we leave a small island at our left; the wind slackens

in half an hour, but brings us S. by E. to a village, near which we

cast anchor in the middle of the river.

_8th January._—The vessels stand S.E., and this is the first

time, for a considerable period, that _one_ direction has held

on so long. Long before sun-rise, the natives sing in honour of

us their “Teabing.” The village only consists of some forty

sleeping-places; each one holds several men, but the herds of cattle

tethered there are exceeding numerous. The natives drive oxen near

us, and are in such haste to bring them to the vessels that we can

scarcely keep them off; they remain standing with the beasts, quite

out of humour, point to them, and make supplicating gestures that we

would condescend to receive the offerings. We have, however, become

proud, for our Saturnian stomachs have had, at last, enough meat. The

natives are of unusual size, and the troop standing above the pastoral

village near the bee-hives, overtop their habitations by a foot.

The north-east wind is too faint; therefore again the cry is

“Churr el libàhn.” From the mast:—back on the right, towards

W., a large lake and a village; another at the side towards S.W.,

of half an hour in length, with a herdsman’s village. Behind this

the Haba draws round in a bend. The wood is about one hour and a

half distant, beyond the right side of the shore; but no lake is

to be seen there, because there are not any angles cut off at this

side. So likewise Fadl does not see a village, although yonder is

the country of the Bohrs, who are said to dwell more inland; at all

events, there must be water there. My Sale Mohammed, who, being

my cook, wanted to procure me some roasted venison, has, against

my will, gone too far from the shore, and not observed that we have

changed the towing-path, and gone to the left shore. I am very angry

with him, for one so easily gets in a passion in these countries. On

calmer reflection, I see that I ought to have more care for his life,

and that he who ventures his life for me does not deserve blows.

Eight o’clock, S.W. by S. We halt at nine o’clock, S.S.E. on the

left shore, in order to wait for ivory. I sent Suliman Kashef’s

sürtuk to the other side, to fetch Sale at this opportunity. The

hygrometer 54°. A number of people are collecting around, and

ready to give us all that they possess. The men, though _only_

seven feet high, look like trees, in their rough and naked natural

forms. Their tonsure is various; large ivory rings adorn the upper

part of their arms. They would like to strip these off, but they

sit too tightly, because they were placed on the arm before it

was thoroughly formed. Now the flesh protrudes above and below the

rings. A large man, appearing to be a little crased, or, perhaps,

chief jester, wears an iron ring with flat bells on his left foot,

and carries an unusually long spear, the shaft of which, being of

a spiral form, is surrounded from the top to the bottom with narrow

iron hoops. It must be interesting to understand his witticisms, for

the others listened to him very attentively, and are extraordinarily

delighted. He prefers his protecting spear to my beads; and it almost

seems to me that these great children laugh at his philosophy as

being stupidity.

The few spears we see here are of very different kinds; therefore,

either imported or captured, in their contests, in the mutual

hurling of spears. The greatest number, however, are pikes,

tapering to a conical point. I only see the latter in the hands of

the less skilful negroes. They seat themselves on the shore, sing,

and beg for beads, pointing with their forefinger and thumb to the

roundness of them. They have bad teeth, almost without exception;

from this circumstance, perhaps, that they chew and smoke tobacco,

partly to alleviate the eternal tooth-ache. If they did not complain

of tooth-ache, yet they shewed us the entire want or decay of their

teeth, when we gave them biscuit to masticate. Their chief or sheikh

had, like the great sheikh of the Bunduriàls, an aquiline nose, and

nobler features than the others: this I have remarked generally. The

black colour alone induces us to suppose that they are of the negro

race; though their features are generally not of that cast. Most

Europeans, if they were painted as black, would be like them.

In observing the difference of these negroes among themselves,

of whom the question can hardly be of a higher or lower grade of

civilisation, and the features by that means distinctly impressed,

we are involuntarily led to the idea that the families of these

chiefs were either immigrating and conquering races, or the remains

of the aborigines; and that, having diminished to solitary families,

they have preserved among themselves their peculiar type, which is

similar to that of the Caucasian race.

In a shooting excursion, I found it here also confirmed that the

surface of the earth is lower behind the shores than the shore

itself. This is especially seen by the vessels, which disappear even

to half the mast at a little distance behind the shore. Nevertheless

the ground was elevated again in the distance like the rim of a

basin, whereon we remarked trees, evidently denoting an earlier

shore. Water stood here and there, around which numerous marsh-birds

had collected. I could not, however, get within shot of them, owing

to the swampy nature of the soil.

Shortly before noon we continued our voyage with the rope, but the

strong south-east wind worked so much against us that we advanced

little or nothing. Besides, the crew do not seem to wish to run in

perspiration and scalding heat, for to-day is Friday, and therefore

the Turkish Sunday.

At twelve o’clock, a large herdsmen’s village on the right shore,

with black giants, to whom the ant-hills serve as watch-towers, and

where they look even taller, being contrasted with the horizon. This

is the nation of the Bohrs. Here and there are seen men waiting on

the shore, holding cattle by a rope, to sell them for beads.

The ox is said to be sacred amongst them. They may perhaps love and

prize their cattle, to which they have but little else preferable,

and may prefer the bull as the founder of the family, but that

is all. After half an hour, where the river winds from S.E. to

E. and N.E., is on the right a pastoral village. The nation of the

Banduriàls stands here collected with a present of cows, but it

was not accepted by us. From N.E. round a sand corner on the right,

to S.S.W.

Here the meat-eaters, who will not be contented till they catch some

disorder, cannot resist the temptation to receive some cattle. As in

some parts of Belled Sudàn, copper wire is used for the decoration

of spears, I had brought some with me rolled on a stick, and here

and there cut off into rings. I exchanged such a ring for a red club,

not made of ebony, but of some other heavy wood. The black stuck the

ring immediately on his finger, half covering it; and Thibaut had no

sooner remarked this wire ring, than he tried to procure it from the

black by exchanging any number of beads for it, whilst my servants

stood by and laughed not a little. He shewed it afterwards on his

own finger, and thought that it was gold, and that we should now gain

endless treasures for our beads, because the people, fortunately for

us, did not know the value. I did not wish to disturb his innocent

wishes, and was silent till the ring changed colour, when it afforded

us a subject for laughter. There was but little to purchase from the

people, because they, with few exceptions, brought long reed-stalks

in their hands, instead of any weapons, as a sign of their friendly

intentions, according to the orders of their king, Biur, who had done

so at our request. A pretty young woman, with tolerably long hair,

stood at a little distance, holding a spear in her hand.

At two o’clock we leave the sand-bank; immediately numberless birds

settled there, and collected themselves for a banquet on the remains

of the slaughtered beasts. We sailed S.S.W., a short tract, and then

round the left to S.E.; here we saw, at half-past two o’clock,

towards E., a large pastoral city, and people, and dogs,—the latter

in unusually large numbers. From the mast:—on the right, to S.W.,

a lake; likewise one over the village to S.S.E.; and beside this

village, five others up to the Haba: on the right shore, neither

the one nor the other. The thermometer 29° at three o’clock. The

above-named village of herdsmen, whose huts, like flat bee-hives,

consist of reeds and straw, is followed by the huts of the women,

built with a little more care, and also higher, having a square

entrance, and on the top another thick irregular layer of reeds, so

as to make the bent stalks of reeds heavier, and to keep off the rain.

The river goes from here E.N.E. For some days past, glass beads have

been exchanged for ivory. I also, for the first time in my life, am

now turning to mercantile speculations, and pleasing myself with the

idea of the astonishment I shall cause to my brother. Five o’clock,

E.N.E.; the north wind is good; five miles, whilst we only made three

shortly after our setting out. At sun-set S.E. by E.; a smell of fire,

and the smoke of a village, on the right side, came to meet us. We

are soon convinced, to our horror, that the reed-straw near us is in

full blaze, and it is fortunate that the river here does not make any

curves, or we might be directly exposed to the flames. On the right

is a large village, with peculiar tokuls, enveloped in black clouds

of smoke, over which the sun dips as if into a dark sea of blood.

If we consider how such a reed conflagration extends with incredible

swiftness in a violent wind, we shall see that the fire is not alone

to be viewed as a purifying element of the marshy region, but also as

the greatest means of destruction of the numerous forms of reptiles,

and indescribable numbers of insects prevalent here. I have already

convinced myself of this by the remains of consumed snakes. The

river winds at the corner occupied by the long village, to S.W.

Two calves swam in the water, not being able to scramble up the

precipitous shore again. The men had no sooner asked me whether they

should take them, than I, as the momentary wokil of Feïzulla Capitan,

gave them permission, in order to return them at a subsequent period

when we came again to the natives; for there was so much meat on

board, that it disgusted even part of the crew. The reïs tried with

all his might to throw overboard the beasts just saved, because they

were not to be slaughtered, and he wanted to have the hides; this,

however, I very soon managed to prevent.

Seven o’clock.—The wind had slackened after sunrise, and the

sailors now sang at the rope; women and cows hallooed and lowed in

opposition. I had forgotten to observe the thermometer, whilst we

were passing by the burning reeds; but now, after seven o’clock,

when we have the fire behind us, it shews 28° Reaumur. By reason

of the great danger, we try to get out of the reeds; the men at

the rope are in a very difficult position when darkness sets in,

for they wound their feet on the reed-stubble. On the left are two

gohrs for catching fish, near another small lake. A little village

lies on the top of the third island, with nine summer tokuls. On

the right shore extends the long tokul village, and opposite to it

twinkles a gohr, near a village. Behind us, the reeds burn in full

blaze, to an immeasurable distance. From the mast:—from W.S.W. to

N.W., a marsh, with isolated ponds, stretching far and wide; on

the left, to S.E., a vast lake, the edge of which vanishes with the

horizon. It is already too dark, and we halt, after eight o’clock,

in the neighbourhood of a herdsmen’s village on the left shore,

where the river winds from E.S.E. to E.

Suliman Kashef sends for me, because he is going to give a great

fantasie, or feast to the sailors, as a reward for their strenuous

labours in bringing us out of the reach of the fire.

_9th January._—The thermometer, which yesterday evening remained at

28°, stood this morning, shortly before sunrise, at 16°. Our vessel

dragged her anchor to-night, owing to a heavy squall of wind. Then

arose again the usual noise, about which the captain troubled himself

but little. I had felt a shock of the vessel, but did not think that

it would be attended by any consequences; but as the hippopotami had

already run against the vessels sometimes with such violence that

they leaked, I paid some attention to what was going on. By way of

precaution, the planks before the cabin were taken away, that we might

be able to see when the water ascended into the lower hold. A gaffir

(sentinel) had been placed there, but I had known for a long time how

these night posts fulfilled their duty. I looked down, therefore,

a short time afterwards into the hold, and saw that it was already

full of water.

The sentry gaped prodigiously when I woke him up by a vigorous

blow. The powder-room under our cabin stood open, so that the gaffir

might observe the better; therefore I could not be too quick in

ordering water to be poured on the fire, which was burning furiously

on the hearth, and which some one had kept up from fancy,—perhaps

the sentinel himself, to light his pipe. Then I awoke the rest of

the crew, for Feïzulla Capitan lay like a log, because when the

habùb set in, he had fortified his courage too much with the araki

brewed by himself.

Immediately after sunrise, when the water was got out, we were

towed to the left shore E., and immediately N.E. by E. From the

mast:—on the left, to the N., lies a village near a small lake;

on the right two villages in the plain before the Haba. The wood is

an hour distant, but not of the same thickness as those of yesterday

and the day before, on the left shore. We go S.S.W., where, on the

left, is a village in a short bend in S.E. The whole horizon before

us is covered with horned cattle shining from afar. My servants

have purchased, on land, several skins of wild beasts, worn by

the natives around their shoulders. Seven o’clock: seventeen to

twenty genuine tokuls, and behind, a pastoral village, with the usual

appearance. The men sing to our sailors, who are towing, but yet they

remain on the large hills of ashes; the women sing “Abandejok,”

jump, and recite besides God knows what other pretty things. Their

village lies about eight feet high, and it does not seem that the

high water reaches there, for we do not perceive any repairs to the

lower clay walls of the tokuls. The surface of the earth behind the

sand-shores is low ground. Half-past seven o’clock. From S.E. with

a short bend io S.S.W.

A number of Bohrs are standing upon the point of land formed by a

gohr to E.; they complain to us that the Elliàbs dwelling on the

other side of the gohr have stolen their cows. We are no priests

of justice, and continue our course. This gohr appears, therefore,

to form the boundary between the Bohrs and Elliàbs. I was surprised

that the former tribe did not dare to cross over the canal, which

is about thirty paces broad, and probably connected with a great

lake, as the choked-up dams prove, and claim their property _manu

forti_. Their whole system of warfare may possibly consist only in

such _coups-de-main_, from which, for the moment, eventual brawls

may arise. It does not appear to me probable that a whole nation

arms and takes the field against the other, for this would be a war

of annihilation, which cannot take place, as the numerous population

shews.

Eight o’clock. From S.E. to S.S.E. with sails; for the north wind

freshens. Whilst I am writing this, the wind suddenly blows from S.E.,

and we are glad to halt at the left shore, where the sand is heaped up

more than ten feet high. We go on by the rope. A storm comes from the

south-east wind, but shews itself, however, as a mere blast of wind

(habùb). At half-past eight o’clock we sail a short tract to S.,

but then again libàhn to S.E., on the right shore. Ten o’clock. An

innumerable quantity of cows in the low ground on the right side of

the shore, where there are more pools and a pastoral village. Again

were oxen dragged to us.

We notice a large encampment of herdsmen, somewhat up the country, in

the river behind the little pastoral village: I call it an encampment

because there are no huts there, but sheds, as a protection against

the sun, lying flat upon four stakes, the walls being partly protected

by reeds. These straw huts, with flat roofs, which I had seen also

besides in the pastoral villages, and which serve in the whole

country of Sudàn, during the hot season of the year, for household

labours, are called by the Arabs Rekùba. Even the open porches of the

clay-houses are so called. Besides these, the reed-walls, protecting

the very large fires of the encampment against the wind, stand far

and wide around, and glistening herds of cows pasture there on all

sides. The abundance of herds might give, indeed, some scale by which

we could judge of the population, as I see from the rearing of the

beasts that a certain number of hands are necessary. Still S.E., and

behind the high reeds of the river another little pastoral village,

near which we go to S. Eleven o’clock. On the right a tokul city

at the point where we go S.W. Seventy to eighty houses stand along

the shore, and we perceive, in a straight line, an arm of the Nile,

separating a level island from a large pool. Immediately behind

the city a pastoral village extends here and there, with that arm,

towards the south.

There are many people on the shore, singing their “Abandejok:”

the old women are particularly distinguished in this welcoming. We

heard, _horribile dictu_, the clattering noise they make by striking

their hanging breasts up and down; remaining with closed knees on one

spot, they jumped or sprang up, swinging backwards and forwards their

elbows and hands in a horizontal direction, and, bringing both hands

before them, greeted us, or begged for something. The younger ones

stood at a distance, and looked at the play,—kept back, indeed,

more by the men than by their own bashfulness. The men swam over

the arm of the river, in order to accompany us still further along

the shore, or rather to catch a few beads. Opposite this hamlet

are some tokuls, with a large pastoral village. We navigate S.S.W.,

and half past eleven o’clock S.E.

On the right a gohr discloses itself here, towards the south; two

brooks flow now into its shores, close to one another; they join at

high water like an arm of the river,—not deep, indeed, but yet as

broad as the river we traverse. Opposite to its mouth is what seems

a village, the huts in which appear to consist of sheaves of reeds

joined together. On closer inspection, I see that it is not a village,

but green reeds cut down and placed together to dry, to be used for

building materials. We remark that the gohr goes subsequently to

S.W., and see towards the west a pastoral village, connected with

the tokul city. The extreme margin of the right shore is seven feet,

and of the left three feet; the shores themselves ascend up to ten

and twelve feet in height. On all sides, as far as the eye can reach,

water tracts glisten in the low grounds.

Twelve o’clock. We halt till two o’clock, at an island of

the left shore, and go then by the rope in a bend from the above

S.E. direction, in half an hour’s time to N. by E. Here we

work round a low sand-bank, which projects itself sharply into

the river. Fadl told me from the mast, before we came to this

corner:—Towards S.S.W., the gohr near the tokuls goes to S.W. Two

large lakes are there, and a village, about an hour distant; the

wood retreats two hours’ distance. To the left of the right shore

also a large lake, half an hour distant, and the trees there indicate

marsh land within three hours’ distance.

At half-past three o’clock we have fortunately navigated round

from N.E. to S.E. On the right we notice, towards S.W., two large

lakes, the first of which, being far off, shews only some tops of

trees as its western shore. We have likewise, on the right shore,

a considerable lake, at half an hour’s distance from us, at our

side. The surface of the earth consists of humus mixed with sand,

and frequently displays a reddish tinge, which makes us infer that

there is iron-ore there. The natives sang yesterday evening, while

they walked along by the side of our men, who were towing, in concert

with them, repeating the eternal refrain, “Ja Mohammed;” to-day,

also, I saw them at the village where we remarked the great gohr,

assisting in towing, with songs and laughter. Although they are not

able to converse with our wags, yet they immediately recognised the

Abu Hashis, when on shore, as such, and joked with them; yet they

were often frightened when the latter assumed a grim countenance

and advanced towards them. The population appears to be very large,

for it is not confined to the border of the river, but extends up

the country, as far as the ground collects the water of the tropical

rains; and the truth of this is verified, not only by ocular evidence,

but also by the statements of the natives found on the border. But

who numbers these dark children of the sun?

Five o’clock. S.W. by S. The river flows from hence on the left

in a bend to W., and has a breadth of five hundred paces. At sunset,

or six o’clock,—for I also set my watch, according to the Turkish

and Arabic manner, at this hour,—we halt E. by S., under the corner

where the river winds round to the right. There is here, on the right,

a pool in distant sunken land, which must form, at the time of the

inundation, a vast level lake. Two villages to S.S.W., one behind

the other, and large herds of cattle in their neighbourhood. Up the

country, on the left, the nearest village is only to be seen from

the mast, and what we perceive to N.E. and N.N.E., is said to be a

large drove of cows. I took a walk to this village: it lies on a gohr,

and is called Aderègh. To judge from the foot-prints of elephants,

it must all have been inundated. As fair winds had set in, we soon

returned on board, and advanced at the rate of three miles an hour

during two hours, to S. and S.W., and cast anchor in S.E., where

the river becomes considerably broader.

CHAPTER XI.

NARROW ESCAPE FROM CROCODILES. — ILLNESS OF THE AUTHOR. —

DESCRIPTION OF THE ELEPHANT-TREE. — CUSTOM OF MAKING BEDS ON ASHES

VERY ANCIENT. — SULIMAN KASHEF SHOOTS A CROCODILE. — STRONG

SMELL OF MUSK FROM THESE ANIMALS. — THE TRIBE OF THE ELLIÀBS. —

WAR DANCES. — CHARGE AGAINST ARNAUD. — INJURY TO VESSELS BY

HIPPOPOTAMI. — SULIMAN KASHEF’S CIRCASSIAN SLAVE. — CULTIVATED

LAND. — THE FELATI. — APPEARANCE OF A MOUNTAIN. — TRIBE OF THE

TSHISÈRRS. — STRATA OF THE SHORE. — RICINUS PLANTS. — FOUR

LOWER INCISORS WANTING TO THE NATIVES ON THE SHORES OF THE WHITE

NILE. — AGILITY AND STRENGTH OF THE NEGROES. — MORE MOUNTAINS

APPEAR.

10th January.—Towed to S.E., and, looking back from the mast,

two more villages are visible. On the right shore, a gohr of one

hundred paces broad, projects inland towards N.E. A large village

before us on the same side, surrounded with regular plantations of

tobacco, cotton, creeping beans, and simsim; domestic fowls are also

running about here. We halt soon afterwards at the right shore, where

a village, considerable in length, extends from E. to E.S.E. along

the shore. Two small tokul villages also on the left side. At half

past eight o’clock we bear off again, and at nine we go S.S.E.,

having cultivated places at our side; and at ten o’clock towards

S. On the right shore a gohr of thirty paces in breadth to N.E.;

we also remark dome-palms again. Half past ten o’clock, S.E. by

S. The forest, extending behind the doum-palms to within fifty and

a hundred paces of the shore, appears also in the neighbourhood,

and looks well covered and inviting to the chase. The broad river

is so shallow here that we are obliged to stop in the centre of it,

with our ships still heavily laden, whilst the men towing wade in the

water; they often disappear altogether in the deep, when we come to

these numerous shallows, and emerge again like ducks. There are many

snakes in the water here; no one, however, was bitten by them. The

crocodiles are again very frequently met with in the river, for they

have deserted the pools and lakes.

_11th January._—I have fortunately overcome a violent attack

of illness which overtook me yesterday evening. Such a faintness

seized me in my excursion yesterday, that I was obliged to sit

down. I slept or lay in a swoon; I know not which. I awoke when

it was already dark. A shot was fired near me; I tried to answer,

but my gun flashed in the pan; for I had fired it off in a half

unconscious state, to call for assistance. I dragged myself in the

direction of the shot, and worked through the bushes to the shore,

in order to walk more comfortably on the sand. At last I had the

stream before me: on my left I saw the fires near the ships; but,

by heavens! I was struck with terror, for there was the horrible

sight of more than twenty crocodiles a few paces before me on the

light sand. I had really commenced to count the beasts; but did not,

however, remain long in bivio Herculis, for they began to move,

scenting human flesh. I hastened back into the bushes, plunged

into the holes hollowed out by water, which I had previously tried

to avoid, and arrived without any accident close to the ships. I

heard voices behind me, and recognised my servants, who were in

search of me. They were mourning and reproaching themselves for

having left me. Sale set up a loud howl, because he thought I was

devoured by the crocodiles. They found me on the ground; they had

also been pursued by the beasts. What a poor creature a sick man

is! I hear now, for my consolation, that we had remained in the

same place where we halted yesterday before noon, towards S.S.E.,

owing to the great exhaustion of the crew, and want of wood.

About eleven o’clock at night I began to rave, followed, from all

external symptoms, by a kind of cholera morbus. This attack must have

been dreadful, according to the description of Feïzulla Capitan, who

bravely remained by my side, and shewed that he really has a heart,

as I had seen already when he saved the Tokruri. Although exhausted,

I now find myself tolerably well. We have a small reed-island at our

side: the stream on the right and left is ornamented with a forest,

assuming here quite a different character from the uniformity we

have seen in the country of the Shilluks.

The earlier or spring mimosas were entirely obscured by other trees

with dense foliage; the copsewood, also, has taken another form. The

sun had not yet risen; but I could no longer contain myself, and

therefore landed from the vessel. If I had, last night, given up

the plan of travelling through Africa to the Atlantic Ocean, to-day

I was seized with the old humour and desire when I saw this splendid

woody region extending around me. Among the trees the shudder el fill

(elephant-tree), or medengàn el fill, was distinguished above all

the others. The beautiful clusters of flowers attain the length of

from five to five feet and a half; they are similar to the yellow

lily, but considerably larger, and somewhat curved on one side,

like the nape-piece of a helmet. Forty or fifty of these lilies,

shining magnificently, hang on one string; only half of them, however,

are in flower, whilst the other half are budding. The fruit, similar

in appearance to a thick grey-green cucumber, was already one foot

and a half long, and half a foot thick. When cut open, it is very

like the medengàn, called melinsanes in Greece, and cazzi greci in

Trieste. The bark of the tree is light and smooth; the branches are

a little twisted like those of the walnut-tree, to which it is akin

in its digitate though darker leaves, and may perhaps surpass it in

height. The elephant is said to be very fond of these medengàns,

although they seem uneatable to all other creatures. Whether this be

the Adansonia or monkey’s-bread-tree I venture not to decide. We

shot down several of the fruits, being obliged to pierce through

the upper part of the stalk, which is the thickness of a finger,

with a bullet.

Eight o’clock.—We have felled wood, brought it on board, and

continue our voyage by towing. The river soon forms an angle from

S.S.E. to W.S.W. but it is only to go immediately again to S.S.E. As

we remarked on the shore, the water now visibly falls. Selim Capitan

and Arnaud cannot conceal their fear at having to surmount these

obstacles, so as not to be devoured by the natives on our return

voyage, which they would rather now commence. Such shallows are

certainly disagreeable; but as they merely occupy certain tracts, it

is only necessary, surely, to leave behind a portion of the freight

on the other vessels, and to fetch them afterwards by degrees:

this is evident, even to the commander. Sandbanks stretch from

hence to the middle of the river. At nine o’clock to S.; on the

left an island. The wood continues cheerfully on the right shore;

on the left, however, it has disappeared. Half-past nine o’clock,

S.S.W., and on the left a village.

The shores are strata of mixed humus, and the sand layer is quite

clear. I remarked on the lower margin of a steep and broken shore

a stratum of burnt reeds, and the intersection of a large hill of

ashes, which proves clearly, like the tombs in the rocks of Silsili,

in Egypt, that the stream here also sunk deeper formerly. The custom

of making beds on the ashes is, therefore, very ancient, and the

burning of the reeds is compelled by necessity. We halt near a

village of about forty tokuls, and again wait for meat. There were

only a few people to be seen, who stood, or squatted there quietly:

at last they collected together, and formed a large column. Stretching

up their hands in the air, holding a reed, or an ambak-tree, which

is as light as a cork, though it looks like a fearful club, they

made short quick marches up and down, and a sudden simultaneous

facing about, in honour of us. The women ran behind this chorus,

shouting and screaming as in Germany.

About eleven o’clock we set out to S.W. by S. A gohr cuts off an

island equally narrow, overgrown with grass, at our left hand. At the

head of the little island the river winds to S. On the right here is

a pastoral village. At twelve o’clock, S.E. by E., and round the

left by S.E. The north-east wind freshens a little, and we go without

libàhn, if not quicker, yet more comfortably. A large semicircle is

formed, and we go, at half-past twelve o’clock, from an easterly

direction again to S.W. On the left shore, a troop of some twenty

negroes squat, holding cows and calves for us by a cord. Beads are

dear to them above everything. These blameless Ethiopians will not

even receive gold and silver, the chimerical value of which they

know not; and it is only stupidity that laughs at them in pity.

From the mast:—two pastoral villages behind the right shore; four

more farther on, before the Haba, which forms a semicircle. The

forest makes its appearance again before us, on both sides of the

river. The latter separates into two arms, each having directly about

two hundred paces in breadth; these form a little island, which

we leave at our right side. The island is full of high sprouting

plants and vegetables, between blooming shrubs. At one o’clock

we arrive S.E. by E., and with E. to the point of the island. On

the precipitous shores stand the different kinds of trees; among

them the doum-palms, poison, and elephant-trees, are particularly

distinguished, in picturesque confusion.

The left shore forms here at the corner, where the river winds S.W.,

a strip of sand, cutting into the river-bed, here only about one

hundred and fifty paces broad, and on account of this we are obliged

to sail close to the right shore. However, the river increased again

immediately to S. W., up to three hundred paces in breadth. On the

right also the Haba approaches, having but few trees, but before

us it is well covered, and extends to the border of the stream

itself. Five miserable tokuls stand under a large shady tree, which

imparts a peculiar effect to the spot by its unusual masses of shade

in this land of the sun. Some natives are sitting quietly under it,

and seem to be fishermen. Two o’clock, S.S.E. We have the point of

an island covered with reeds, in the middle of the river. Although I

dread the mid-day sun after yesterday’s attack, which reminds me of

a similar one in Taka, yet I venture upon deck, and see an island on

the left. The arm embracing it has already shrunk to a large pool, and

behind are the old or high shores, overlaid by sloping, grass-covered

rubbish, as with a green mat. Where these shores formerly fell away

steep into the water, they were twenty feet high, and were still

raised in a similar angle towards the interior. The shores of the

island are also about eight feet high, and I can easily calculate

this, the shores being so close, for we have a plumb-line on board.

At three o’clock we advance close to the left shore, to let the men

dine, for we have only laid aside the rope for a very short time, in

consequence of the slack wind. The river becomes narrow at the corner,

S.S.E., where it turns to the right. I also remark here again one of

those gohrs, which, being from two to three feet high, conduct the

high water, as canals, over the present water-mark, through the low

country, because the river-bed is clearly too narrow—its shores

being elevated here on both sides to two gradations—to carry away

the whole mass of the White Stream, at the time of its inundation. We

have also again the pleasing sight of the herds going to the river,

over the ridge of sand, which must be considered at these high shores,

as a road to the water. Eight white, well-fed calves, being the last,

went away, to my astonishment, unmolested, our men not taking it into

their heads to seize them. There is no leaving off at noon to dine,

but one-half of the crew eats whilst the other tows the ship. About

three o’clock we work away over the shallows, and at last the

temptation cannot be resisted of taking some calves on board.

Four o’clock. We have the sand-banks behind us, to our good fortune,

and we go S.S.W. The Haba close on the right shore, where we noticed

six summer-houses and a gohr, eight feet above the water, is now

separated from us about two hundred paces by a low country exposed to

the inundations. The left old shore, with its generally scanty wood,

has drawn close to the river itself, and is only ten to twelve feet

high. Now, perhaps, the river will remain enclosed in the very narrow

limits of the old shores, and not make these arbitrary serpentine

windings, giving the result of a vast development of streams, but

placing an incredible obstacle in the road to our pressing forward to

the sources of the Nile themselves. We land at five o’clock, even

before sun-set, on the left shore, for the men can go on no more,

having laboured the whole day at the libàhn; the hoisted sails,

therefore, are as good as useless, though they may have appeared

very imposing to the natives.

A number of ash-grey people have collected near the village,

and their chief is invested magnificently because he is to give

ivory. From the elevated shore we see far in the low country, where

the smoke appeared like a large lake. I was to suffer to-night for

having exposed myself in the day, for a short time, to the heat of

the sun. The sinking sun seemed to make my hair stand on end in a

peculiar manner, and to set every single hair _en rapport_ with its

rays. I could scarcely return to the vessel.

_12th January._—Happy those who have enjoyed a refreshing sleep

to-night! I could not get any, and yet was so weary; fantastic forms

plagued me the whole night; there is a restlessness in my nervous

system, so that I get little comfort. Yet I brush up my strength,

and write my journal; but I find it difficult, and cannot do much.

Before day-break, when some wind shewed itself, we set out, but

again at sun-rise, the cry is “Libàhn.” S.S.E. At our left,

the islands seen yesterday, the first of which is small, the second

may be half an hour long. The wood stands on both sides upon the

shore, which is twelve to fifteen feet high, in lively freshness

and variety of colours. Mist is hovering about, and clouds prevent

the sun from appearing.

Opposite to the large island is a gohr on the left shore, forty to

fifty feet wide, apparently in connection with a lake behind the

Haba. Half-past eight o’clock. S.W., but in a curve to S. I hear

a shot before us, and they tell me that Suliman Kashef has killed,

_at one shot_, a large crocodile on the sandy promontory of the right

shore, so that it never moved from the spot after being struck. We

tarry there till half-past nine o’clock, for Suliman Kashef presents

the skin of the beast to Arnaud; but the latter scarcely retains the

back-shield. As there is plenty of other meat, the men scorn to cut

off its tail, and eat it according to the custom of the country. My

servants, however, who knew that I had already tasted this sort

of meat in Khartùm, as also in Taka, a snake, which a dervish had

dressed himself, cut off a slice for me. Even had I not been ill,

the smell of musk it exhaled, and which was not lost, though cooked

with hay, was so repulsive to me, that they were obliged to throw

it over board immediately. At first it appeared to me incredible

that mariners should scent from afar the presence of a crocodile;

but on my journey from Káhira to Sennaar, my own olfactories,

when they offered me in Korusko a young one for sale, had become

very sensitive to the odour of this beast.

At our entrance into the Blue Stream, I could smell the crocodiles,

lying at a distance of six hundred paces off upon a sand-bank at

the mouth of the White Stream, before I had seen them. The glands

containing a secretion like musk, are situated in the hinder part, as

in the civet-cats, (viverra civetta), domesticated in Bellet Sudàn,

known here by the name of sabàt. These animals are kept in cages

for the purpose of collecting the favourite perfume, called here

musk or moschus.

Ten o’clock. S. by W. The river winds to the left; on the right

an island with a village, separated by a narrow arm from the left

side of the river. We sail with a good north-east wind, and make

four miles. The poor negroes run as fast as they can to obtain a

few beads, but in vain. On the left also an island.

Four o’clock. S.S.E. A short tract to S., and again to the left,

S.E. We do not see the Haba of the left shore from the cabin; on the

right it is divided from the river by a fore-shore. Soon afterwards,

on the left shore, a village, with a solitary dhelleb-palm; the

houses with a little pointed roof of straw, as in the tokuls;

but the wall protruding in the centre, like a thick cask standing

upright—another nation, therefore—that of the Elliàbs. At

half-past eleven, again S.E.

_15th January._—These are the days of trial; what avails good will,

and a firm heart? I am still very weak, and cannot sit up. The

negroes, since daybreak, have been singing their bold songs,

and continue their war-dances, with quick or slow evolutions, in

columns: their leaders are at their head, making threatening motions,

wildly and freely, and inflaming the courage of their men by sudden

broken chaunts, which the chorus then takes up. They clearly want

to pay us respect by these manœuvres, for their rapid march is not

directed against us; they do not appear to me to be the enemies we

were informed of some days since, for they try with all their might

to gain our friendship, and bring a number of cows to us.

I look at my journal, and thought I had been so ill since _yesterday_

at noon that I was not able to continue it to the evening. To my most

supreme astonishment, however, I hear from Feïzulla Capitan and my

servants, that this yesterday dates _from the 12th of January_, and

that they believed I was going to die. I remember very well, however,

that I once saw Thibaut sitting on Feïzulla Capitan’s bed, and

conjured him solemnly to send the doctor to bleed me. I sent out also

my men to look, for one of them told me that Thibaut had not gone

on board the doctor’s vessel, but on that of the Frenchmen. The

doctor appeared, a perfectly black Shaigië, who had received the

finishing stroke, as an accomplished alipta, under Clot Bey. Arnaud

came immediately afterwards, to try on me his sleight of hand in

phlebotomy. As I had got my brother to mark the point where to lance,

so that I might do it myself in case of necessity, and had touched up

the same with ink, every now and then, I allowed Arnaud more willingly

to perform the operation, the black doctor having already worried me

with his chattering. I trembled too much myself to undertake it with

my own hand. I lay there at night, and a feeling came over me as if

my whole body were pulsating, and I was myself moved up and down

by the pulses. I did not dare to close my eyes, for fear of being

tormented by those indescribable phantasies; I perceived only too

well that Arnaud had not taken away sufficient blood. Willingly would

I have had now a helping hand, but every one was asleep, and I could

not call because I had lost my voice. I therefore undid the bandage,

moved my arm vigorously about, and let the blood flow out of window;

I felt I was much better, but was afraid of falling in a swoon and

bleeding to death, when all at once a bright thought struck me:

I took one of the large ivory rings lying near me, drew it over

the hand, and so tight over the compress, which I had again put on,

that they were obliged in the morning to cut it to pieces on my arm.

To my great consolation I heard that we had remained from twelve

o’clock at noon in a south-easterly direction on the average,

and at five o’clock had landed on a place where we remained till

four o’clock yesterday evening, and then had come on as far as

here, said to be only a short tract. Selim Capitan told me that we

had only made on the 12th fifteen miles. The Frenchmen do not wish

me to annoy myself about this gap in my diary, and promised me all

possible _éclaircissement_ from their own journals; but they found,

however, subsequently, excuses to shuffle off, and I must therefore

survey this tract more accurately on the return voyage. Suliman

Kashef also had fallen sick in the very same hour I did, and was

just as long delirious; on his account, therefore, the crew had kept

quiet. I hear, to my astonishment, that Arnaud is accused of having

tried to poison the Kashef and myself out of one and the same goblet,

on the day before our simultaneous illness, because he himself had

drank from another the last time we were with him. It was only with

difficulty that I could persuade Suliman Kashef to divest himself of

this unhappy idea; and it was by the following means I principally

effected it:—I took precipitate powder from Arnaud, in water,

before his face.

We go S.S.E., and after sun-rise S.E. On the left the head of an

island discloses itself, if the gohr going to the N.E. is a Nile

arm. Here also the people have collected, singing, and jumping

backwards and forwards, in three files, as far as their strength

will allow them, for they have not got a rag of clothes on their

backs. A land promontory, jutting out from the right shore, brings

us at last, after much labour, from S.E. to E. by N. A hippopotamus

has just injured our doctor’s vessel so much that it would have

sunk if it had not been aground on the sand. Yesterday evening also,

when we were lying at anchor, a similar river-buffalo struck our

large vessel with such force, that not being in the best condition,

it made an uncomfortable motion, and roused immediately all our

attention to examine the hold. We advance a little, and suddenly

there is a cry that there is no water-course before us. I take this

statement to be a knavish trick of the Reïs, whose duty it is to

sound, and who pretend this in order to get back the sooner to their

wives at Khartùm. I have expressed this opinion to Feïzulla Capitan,

and begged of him to go to the two commanders.

I have good reason to fear that the invalid Suliman Kashef would

rather be waited upon in his hàrim, at Kàrreri, than here by

his Turks, although he has a young Circassian girl in the second

cabin, who durst not leave the narrow space she is confined in,

notwithstanding my intercession. The second time I was on board

Suliman Kashef’s vessel, I was looking at his arrangements,

just as the eunuch standing in the corner had gone out to fetch

water; quite by accident, I opened the door of the second cabin,

and saw there this pale, but beautiful girl, lying on the carpet,

in a gauze chemise and trowsers. Suliman Kashef called out as if the

devil possessed him, “Hàrim! Hàrim!” on which excusing myself,

I naturally retreated, and he burst out into a loud laugh. Thus

this poor creature sat in a cage, in which there was hardly room for

her bed. The air entering but sparingly through the closed Venetian

blinds, was obliged to suffice her day and night, for she was not

even allowed to look out at the scenery.

There are several negroes on the right shore, who have a different

language to that of the Elliàbs, and are called Tshièrrs. They

sing and shout as much as they can, to induce us to receive their

presents of cattle.

The shores in this region are not mixed with strata of sand in

horizontal, but in undulatory layers, which may prove that a more

violent influx into the reed-lakes took place here formerly, than

in the present day. We navigate at four o’clock a short tract

to E. and S.E., and immediately S.W. At sun-set, from S. to E. At

the left a broad arm to N., perhaps having the main stream, for it

shews here hardly any fall. We halt at the right shore, and take

other natives from hence, for the purpose of acting as interpreters,

instead of the former ones. From the mast is seen, on the left shore,

two cities, and the great Haba, half an hour distant.

_16th January._—I have passed a dreadful night, continually raving,

and so far as I believe, I have not slept a minute. It was not till

after sun-rise that we go with libàhn to E. by N.; an hour later

S.E. Whilst I am counting seven villages on the left shore, along

a dry gohr or Nile arm, I see on the right only one village. At

half-past nine o’clock we sail S. by W. Ten o’clock.—The

right shore is entirely covered with houses; thus the whole country

presents, in a yet unseen extent, a cheerful cultivation of durra,

simsim, tobacco, and lubiën (the phasels, or white beans, so

frequently met with in the land of Sudàn). We see continually

on the shores the ricinus and ushàr (_asclepias procera_), with

luxuriant leaves, as well as the rigli, or purslane, which grows

wild also in the gardens of Khartùm, and was our usual salad. At

noon N.E., where a city on the right shore extended; then E.,

and subsequently S.E. Here I see, for the first time, the natives

washing. Notwithstanding the proximity of the water, they make no

regular custom of washing themselves, as is only too plainly seen by

their bodies covered with ashes. They bring us large ivory tusks, as

they did previously, and these were purchased in favour of government,

for a few beads. Two o’clock.—On the right shore a large village,

with a different sort of tokuls; and we go from N. by E. to S. It is

unquestionable that there is an enormous population in this country

of the Tshièrrs. The people have a friendly physiognomy, and the

form of the face is more spherical than that of the other tribes.

_17th January._—We halted yesterday evening close to a large

city on the left shore, and remained there till eight o’clock

this morning. This delay was caused by the natives constantly

dragging down elephants’ tusks to us. The tokuls are like sheds,

but barricaded round about with thick stakes, probably on account

of the wild beasts. My European companions are very anxious about

my health, and wish me not to write. They will lend a hand to

me in every thing—very cunning of them! On the right and left

villages. An island on the left shore, at least a gohr, enters into

the land there; but where tarries the other gohr or Nile arm, that

we saw four days ago? From E.S.E. to S.E. The north wind is better

to-day than yesterday, when it set in, so desirable to me in my

invalid state, and we make three miles. On the right shore a Haba,

sometimes retreating a little, sometimes approaching. An innumerable

crowd of negroes stood at the before-mentioned bend of the river,

but we sail proudly by, without throwing out beads, and exciting

the desire of such a mass of human beings for our glass riches. The

people cultivate their fields, and are really better fed, but appear

not to be equally particular about washing. The shores of the Nile

are twelve to fifteen feet high, and there prevails a crumbling

humus, easily rubbed to powder; always strongly, however, mixed with

sand. These men, moreover, not only produce the fruits above alluded

to, but also gàra and battigh (gourds and water-melons). Iron rings

on the arms and feet seem to be regarded here with more respect than

ivory rings. We leave two islands, of about two hours in length,

at our side; they are also cultivated. As the country becomes more

interesting, I feel myself happily a little better, and this may

partly arise from the clearer air.

The natives say that the Felati, who wear clothing or rags (sharmuta),

like our men, are only a few days’ journey from us to the west. I

hear that these Felati, like the Tokruri, from Darfùr, being Muslims,

make the pilgrimage to Mecca. It is certain that they do not take

the road traversed by us, for nothing is known of them in Khartùm:

it appears to me more likely that they join the pilgrim caravan

of Burnu, and distribute themselves in the neighbourhood of the

Nile, the better to beg their way through. Subsequently I became

acquainted with a slave in Khartùm, who had come to the land of

Sudàn, through Burnù. Felati means there dissolute roving men,

such as these Tokruri, from the interior of Africa, generally are. It

is thought that we shall meet with these Felati, and this is the

more desired by me, because, as they partly speak Arabic, I could

ask them questions myself, and should have no need of two or three

interpreters, who translate in a careless manner one to the other.

Twelve o’clock. S.S.E. The stream is, as I predicted, more

constant in its old limits, which have approached closer to us;

we have generally a south-easterly direction. On the right also the

wood is near, and I am curious to survey some of the beautiful green

trees. The natives have brought us goats and sheep, but no cows;

and do not seem to wish to give them. We have a small island on

our left, and on the right the lower end of another, though we have

not seen its commencement. Village connects itself to village, with

broad low tokuls. We go from the south, where, on the left, through

a simsim-field, separated from the river, stands a stately village,

with reed palisadoes, to S.E. There ends the little island, and two

other sandy ones immediately join on. Eight women are standing on

the downs of the right shore before their village, and comfortably

smoke their pipes. The isolated trees, with their beautiful branches

and soft green foliage, have a very cheerful look. The simsim,

cut-down, is regularly fixed together, like an arbour, in order to

be dried. S.W., on the left, an island.

The shores are intersected with sandy strips. The larger tokul-roofs

have an irregular form, with horns on the top, mistaken by the Turks

for the crescent; they appear, however, to be the branches of the tree

standing in the middle of the tokul. It is the gable of the house;

and possibly we may look here for an adoration of animals bearing

horns. On the right an island with beautiful foliage upon it; the

channel is not broader than double the length of our vessel. To the

left there is an island, and opposite it a mere deposit of an island,

quite lively and verdant in the water; the river is again broader. On

the right, and shortly afterwards on the left, two islands end,

though we have not observed their lower part. Either they had not

any water there, and were easily overlooked, or the stream branches

so that we can scarcely form an idea of it. I look upon this portion

of the White River, in regard to its uncommon mass of waters, with

still greater respect, as a phenomenon difficult to be solved.

It is three o’clock. S. by W. Do I hear rightly?—they are speaking

of _Gebl_—how that sound thrills to my heart! I call, but no one

listens to me, for all are standing upon deck, and looking towards

the mountain, which is said to be very large. In spite of the sun,

and all remonstrances, I drag myself up on deck, and see the mountain

to S.W., at a distance of about twenty hours. It seems to form an

accumulation towards one point, and may surely be the forerunner of

other mountains; therefore, after all, there are mountains of the

moon. City crowds on city; and the Egyptians look out from the mast

for herds of cattle, which are not, however, numerous. An innumerable

population moves on the shores; to express their number our crew say,

“Ketir, saie el tubàhn” (as many as flies); and we sail always,

Allah Kerim, by the shore, which is quite black with people, who

are standing as if benumbed with astonishment.

Four o’clock. From S.S.E. to S.S.W. The north-east wind good for

four miles. It seems as if we were going to the chain of mountains,

or, at least, coming nearer to it. Two days ago the natives whom we

asked knew nothing of any mountain on the river. The river again

becomes majestic at this bend, and gives us every favourable hope

by its water-mark. On the right a small island, and another lies

likewise planted in the middle of the river before us.

Five o’clock. S.W., and to S. An island on the left shore, where

a gohr enters far into the land; then on the left a small island

in our river, round which we proceed on the right, in order to come

to the supposed gohr, which soon shews itself to be a main stream,

flowing here S.E., and therefore not forming an island. Still there

is an uncomfortable feeling at finding myself near the Equator in

Central Africa, and being ill at the same time. Every man has his

home, and this is frequently confined to such narrow limits that

there is, properly speaking, only _one_ favourite place in life. I

was never a gourmand; but _sauerkraut_, now fresh from the tub—and

I should be well on the spot.

At half-past five o’clock, from S.E. to S.S.W., and shortly

afterwards S., and again S.S.W. I see strings of white beads, that

may have been introduced by the Felati already mentioned; for the

White Stream itself does not seem, up to this moment, to form any

road of communication to the tribes who are ever at war with each

other. From E.S.E. to S. by W., where we halt at sunset, and I go

on shore. The Tshièrrs, possessing both shores here, are a very

handsome race of men; tall, strongly built, and well fed. There is

a good nature and courtesy in their behaviour, shewing, in itself,

external cultivation. I can scarcely persuade myself that I am

in the middle of Africa. The “stipes Æthiops,” as the Romans

called it, always falls away the further we ascend the river. This

type, indigenous particularly to the Dinkas, has not only entirely

disappeared, but a nobler and more natural motion in the limbs has

taken its place. Every one of these people wears a small wooden fife

round his neck, having three tones. They say that the strings of glass

beads they wear come _from above_ (gèbeli, min fok), pointing up

the river to the south. It almost seems as if there were a connection

between these countries and the Atlantic Ocean. Although these people

are armed with clubs, spears, bows, and poisoned arrows, yet there is

something in the natural disposition of the human heart that prevents

even our men from giving way to fear at a distance, but they take

very good care not to offend the kind commoners of nature in any way.

_18th January._—Another bad night. Even now, at Asser, I have not

recovered. The Frenchmen, indeed, have paid me a visit, consoled

me with empty words, but cast looks at one another, the meaning of

which I so well understood that I assured them there was no danger;

I should see my brother again, whom I just at this moment missed

very much. We sail, on the whole, S.W., see six to seven islands,

and approach nearer to the high mountain. This afternoon I saw, on

the left, a little gohr, which discharges itself with a strong fall

into the river: they tell me, from the mast, that a second one is

lost again beyond the right shore. It appears, therefore, to be fed

by our water-course, whilst the other is a subordinate arm of the Nile

from above, or a tributary stream. Four o’clock. From N.N.W. to E. A

large city at some distance from the left shore. An incredible number

of people, who go here also quite naked, are dancing and singing on

both shores: our course is really a constant triumphant march. The

bears on the vessels will half kill themselves with laughing. We have

likewise here that sharp piercing cry which we are so frequently

compelled to hear in Lower Egypt, at marriages and other festivals

of the kind. This “Kullelullullulu” is therefore, perhaps, of

Ethiopian origin, and recalls involuntarily to our mind the descent

of tribes from the Highlands. To the right of the city a small island

follows, and a pretty wood extends over the margin of the river.

Half-past four o’clock. On the right and left an island; and

notwithstanding the breadth of the river, we have still a good

water-course, which has increased here in rapidity, a sure sign that

we shall come at least to higher regions. The poison-tree is still

abundant, and does not seem to be considered dangerous even by these

people of free nature; we see it even standing close to their huts. It

is not yet sun-set. There is singing, with dancing, and clapping

of hands, even far into the water itself,—a truly black joy: the

women with their sharp “kulle,” the men with their bass voices,

the boys with their treble, and the barking of dogs between whiles,

so that I can scarcely hold my pen, and know not where to fly to for

peace. They drag calves behind them, and swim towards us, whereby the

greatest part of the glass beads thrown to them fall into the water,

and there is a monstrous noise and splashing in picking them up. I

was sorry for the beautifully-formed young girls, who went away

empty-handed in this crowding and wrestling of thousands. With the

most amiable countenance they pointed to their necks, shewing that

they had no beads there. They were all laughing and in good spirits,

and shouted to us “Màdam!” said to be a title of honour.

_19th January._—We navigate this morning with a gentle north-east

wind to the south, and shortly afterwards have those grass-islands

at our side that lay yesterday evening before us. Here the natives

offer us every thing: weapons, certainly the dearest thing to them;

arrows and bows, long spears, light javelins, and their ornaments,

consisting mostly of iron rings! And all this for miserable Venetian

conterie, which perhaps may serve for a long time as an article of

commerce with the inhabitants of the interior of Africa. The sky

lowers, and was yesterday also somewhat clouded. The river is here

universally four hundred paces broad.

When I look on the soil, I find that it is either percolated with

sand, and forms a perforated black mass, like the humus in Nubia,

or that the layers, being still unchequered or unworked, are disposed

in strata one over the other, sand over humus, and _this_ over mixed

earth, &c., but in thicker deposits than we are accustomed to see

in other parts of the Nile. The undulating direction of these layers

shews a stronger water-way, and a more vigorous forcing on and off of

liquid soil. I am now not at all doubtful of a high land. Another

shallow island joins on to the above-named green river meadow,

over which the neighbouring wood peeps forth refreshingly, with

a large village. The natives accompanying us are brought, by the

partition of the shore, to a place from whence they cannot advance;

they stand and stamp and dance, always upon one spot, some holding

a spear, or bow and arrow, in their hands, some a long stick, and

others without anything. They sing in alternate song, and raise at

the same time one or both hands in the air, or stretch themselves

towards us, and draw the arm back again.

Eight o’clock. From S., a short tract to S.E., and then E. and

N.E. Isolated, strong, ricinus plants, are distinguished by their

dark foliage from the other vegetation, which is beginning here also

to wither. On the whole it is wonderfully verdant on all sides,

to which perhaps the heavy dew may mostly contribute. The people

here have better teeth, but the four lower incisors are wanting,

according to the custom of the country.

Nine o’clock, S.S.E. On the right shore stands one of those

beautifully foliated, large trees, which I have not yet seen close,

but which appears to be a species of Robinia. A large company of

blacks, smoking long pipes, have collected under this tree. The little

boys are excessively merry, blowing in concert their fifes, jumping

and greeting, the latter meant for our boys, whose look pleases

them more than our bearded faces. The green Haba of the right shore

accompanies us cheerfully; the long procession coming out of the wood,

to look at the strangers, indicates a very numerous population. Who

could believe that there was in Africa this aquatic abundance, this

fresh verdure, and this moderate heat, the thermometer having been

for some days not above twenty-five degrees? At noon from S.E. to

S.W. The river winds, however, immediately again to S., in which

direction we generally return in the afternoon. The stream is about

six hundred paces broad, and has a depth of three to three fathoms

and a half. Here must we journey on, as far as our old planks will

allow us, in order to reach its sources with the wind, which is

mostly slack. The shallow island we already saw this morning does

not end till about two o’clock, and the arm embracing it is broad,

and so deep that the negroes accompanying us on shore are obliged

to swim. An island deposit lies at its head, and will soon perhaps

be united to it. Immediately afterwards, on the left shore, a large

summer or pastoral village; on the right and left, singing and jumping

of men, women, and children. Our mountain, of a dark-blue colour,

on the right, suddenly looked into my window, and surprised me not

a little. We sail S.S.E., with two miles rapidity. On the left is

a gohr to S.S.E., into which the people plunge with loud huzzaing,

so that they may accompany us a little longer. No beads are given

gratis; the poor people must run, make the Turks laugh first,

and give them entertainment, before it is determined to throw on

shore these glass bits of paste, though Selim Capitan possesses an

enormous stock of them, and then this _generosity_ is only for the

sake of seeing the bustle and noise of the great children.

Three o’clock. On the left an island, and the other arm embracing

it, divides immediately a whole troop of people, with their bullocks,

from our road; but there are huts and blacks enough on the island

itself. We go W., and the mountain lies S.W. of us, as it appears,

in its entire longitudinal profile, although we could not distinguish

clefts or precipices. The scarpe, on the southern side, ascends

to a height nearly equal to one of the ridges, makes a concave

vibration towards this, and falls gently to the west on a break,

rising precipitously only a little above the horizon. We see even

from here that it is a mountain of moderate size.

Four o’clock. The high mountain lies W.S.W. of us, and, to my joy,

I hear from the mast that another mountain, far higher, rises behind

it to S.W., with three peaks (Tshokka, fork, spike). It must therefore

belong to a high land, as I have already hoped.

The women sing their “kulle,” and throw the upper part of their

bodies from one side to the other. I saw also the men here shake

their chests with such agility and force, as I had never witnessed

in the dances of the Arabs. How inferior all our gymnastics are

to the natural nimbleness, and lion and tiger-like flexibility of

these freely developed limbs! I see one negro jump up from the ground

against another, with a piercing cry; he turns himself round whilst

flying in the air, and stands with a raised spear—I might say

upon his toe, bent forward for the combat—but he is immediately

again appeased by the other. This was a pirouette, worthy of the

plastic skill and hand of an artist. In the space of an hour, two

other mountains in the south, we ourselves going southerly, are

announced to me. On the right and left villages continue, but we see

only here and there the top of a tokul, because they do not stand on

the extreme higher margin of the shore. Large herds of cows glisten

forth from the Haba close at hand, and others are scrambling down

to the river to drink. This wooded region, directly on the stream,

the proximity of the mountains,—we shall see what beautiful and

wonderful things yet the interior of Africa may contain; and I will

endure every thing, because I feel strengthened and excited by the

mountain air blowing down upon me.

There are some trees as green as beeches in May, and having the

wide-spread branches of oaks. Immediately afterwards, a large

village with flat tokuls: the right shore presents here, in truth,

a charming sight. One tree, I remark, having some similarity to

the linden in its foliage, spreading out its boughs like fans,

in fantastical forms, and standing there oddly. On the right and

left are several villages, and also an island on the right side

of the river. On the left shore, a large tokul city, with a large

and small island in the river before it. The tokuls have nearly a

pointed roof, but appear to be carefully built. A number of people

have accumulated there, and I hear the “kullelu” quite plainly,

trilling, in the sharpest treble, the accent “Ih, ih, ih.”

We halt, in a southerly direction, at sun-set, in the middle of the

river, not to be annoyed by the natives, and to avoid all provocation

on the part of the crew. The country is still a real paradise, and

the durra is putting forth its shoots, to give a second crop. It

must not be supposed that the fields have a regular form; on the

contrary, every thing looks as if it grew of its own accord, without

sowing. The trees stand in such strength, as though they had no need

of water; and the human beings shew, by their more noble appearance,

that they enjoy a generous nourishment.

END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

LONDON:

Printed by S. & J. BENTLEY and HENRY FLEY,

Bangor House, Shoe Lane.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 1: Renard the Fox. This refers to the celebrated old

German satire on the intrigues practised at a weak court. It

appeared at Lubeck in 1498, and nothing is known, with certainty,

of its author. Goethe has admirably rendered a part of it into

Hexameters.—_Translator_.]

[Footnote 2: Subsequently I was convinced, by reading over more

carefully a letter which I had received from my brother (as a last

remembrance, containing careful recipes for my health) just as

I was embarking, that Ahmed Basha and Suliman Kashef had spoken

the truth, and that the latter was really nominated chief of the

expedition by the viceroy. This journal (kept by the renegade Rustum

Effendi, a native of Navarino) had given greater satisfaction than

Selim-Capitan’s numerous figures, &c. The Kashef confessed to me

openly that he would now take his ease, and let the others do what

they liked, for he was no maendes (engineer).]

[Footnote 3: A thaler is about 3_s._ English.]

[Footnote 4: Each degree of Réaumur is equal to 2⅑ of one of

Fahrenheit. To change, therefore, Réaumur into Fahrenheit, multiply

the given number of degrees of Réaumur by 9, and divide the product

by 4, the quotient must be added to 32°, and the sum will be the

equivalent sought.]

[Footnote 5: The miles, during this voyage, are English sea-miles,

or knots. (Trans.)]

[Footnote 6: _Sauerbraten._—The well known decoction of beef

steeped in vinegar, which is served up at every table d’hôte

in Germany.—_Transl._]

[Footnote 7: A Parisian or French foot is equal to 1·066 English.]

[Footnote 8: A Rhenish foot is equal to 1·030 English. (Transl.)]

Transcriber's note:

pg v_bis Changed: HUSSEÏN AA’S DRINKING to: AGA’S

pg 51 Changed: exept by Vaissière to: except

pg 78 Changed: Kabbalish Arabs to: Kabbabish

pg 88 Changed: Sahèbesha to: Schèbesha

pg 89 Changed: the left hore to: shore

pg 95 Changed: Philœ to: Philæ

pg 95 Changed: Wadi Shiler to: Shileï

pg 147 Changed: _Andansonia digitata_ to _Adansonia_

pg 184 Changed: latitude yesterday was 80° to: 8°

pg 190 Changed: their countyman’s statement to: countryman’s

pg 209 Changed: latitude is 70° 48′ to: 7°

pg 213 Changed: severel deep foot-prints to: several

pg 221 Changed: HUSSEÏN AA’S DRINKING to: AGA’S

pg 234 Changed: neigbouring reeds to: neighbouring

pg 234 Changed: accord-to to: according to

pg 305 Changed: of unusal size to: unusual

pg 321 Changed: without any accdent to: accident

Minor changes in punctuation have been done silently.

Other spelling inconsistencies have been left unchanged.