[Illustration]
This is a delightful retreat for the statesman and man of
letters--distinctions which its illustrious occupant enjoys with high
honour to his country and himself.
Ampthill is throughout a never-tiring region of romantic beauties. These
were sung in some lines of great sweetness and poetical feeling, a few
years since by Mr. Luttrell, who appears to have taken his muse by the arm,
and "wandered up and down," describing the natural glories and olden
celebrity of Ampthill. We remember to have read his "Lines" with unmixed
pleasure.
The Engraving is copied from one of a Series of "Select Illustrations of
Bedfordshire;" the letter-press accompaniments being neatly written by the
Rev. I. D. Parry, M. A. author of the "History of Woburn." Ampthill
follows.
Ampthill House, now the seat of the Right Hon. Lord Holland, is a plain but
very neat edifice, built of good stone. It was erected by the first Lord
Ashburnham, then the possessor of the estate, in 1694. It is situated
rather below the summit of a hill, which rises at some little distance
behind, and much less elevated than the site of the old castle, but has
still a commanding situation in front, and is sufficiently elevated to
possess a great share of the fine view over the vale of Bedford. It is also
well sheltered by trees, though the passing traveller would have no idea of
the magnificent lime alley, which is concealed behind it. The house has a
long front, abundantly furnished with windows, and has two deep and
projecting wings. In the centre is a plain angular pediment, bearing the
late Lord Ossory's arms, and over the door is a small circular one, pierced
for an antique bust, and supported by two three-quarter Ionic pillars. In
this house is a small collection of paintings, &c., principally portraits.
At the foot of the staircase is a large painting, formerly _in fresco_ at
Houghton House, which was taken off the wall, and put on canvass by an
ingenious process of the late Mr. Salmon. It represents a gamekeeper, or
woodman, taking aim with a cross-bow, full front, with some curious
perspective scenery, 6 feet by 9-1/2 feet. We have heard a tradition, that
it is some person of high rank in disguise; some say James I., who was once
on a visit at Houghton. From the propensities of "gentle King Jamie," this
is not unlikely.
The pleasure ground at the back of the house, commands a pleasing,
extensive view; beyond this is the lime walk, which is certainly one of the
finest in England.--It is upwards of a quarter of a mile in length, the
trees in some parts, finely arching; and may be pronounced, upon the whole,
superior to any walk in Oxford or Cambridge.
The park in which this house stands, is well known, from many descriptions,
to be a singularly picturesque and pleasing one. It is, at the same time, a
small one, but the dimensions are concealed by the numerous and beautiful
groups of trees with which it is studded. The oaks are particularly
celebrated for their great size and age, several of them are supposed to be
upwards of 500 years old, and some do not hesitate to say 1,000 years; the
girth of many of them is ten yards, or considerably more. A survey of this
park, by order of the Conventional Parliament, in 1653, pronounced 287 of
these oaks as being hollow, and too much decayed for the use of the navy.
The whole of these remain to this day, and may, perhaps, continue two or
three centuries longer; some few of them have been scathed by lightning.
Behind the house, near the entrance of the park from the turnpike-road, are
some ponds, similar in appearance to those frequently seen adjoining
ancient mansions; above these, at the edge of a precipice, was the front of
the ancient castle. This building is doubtless that erected by Lord
Fanhope, at the beginning of the fifteenth century. It was used as a royal
resort by Henry VIII., who was often here, and by Queen Catherine, who
resided here some time previous, and during the time her divorce was in
process at Dunstable. There are, in the possession of Lord Holland, two
ground plans of this castle, which, by the late Lord Ossory, were supposed
to have been taken about the year 1616, at which time it was supposed the
castle was demolished. From these, the following particulars of this
building are collected:--The area was a square of about 220 feet; in front
was a large court, 115 feet by 120; behind this were two very small ones,
each 45 feet square; and between these was an oblong courtyard. Between the
front and back courts, the building had two small lateral projections, like
the transepts of a church. In front were two square projecting towers; and
round the building, at irregular distances, were nine others, projecting,
of different shapes, but principally five-sided segments of octagons--if
this description be intelligible. It was, probably, from the general
appearance of the plan, intended more as a residence for a nobleman or
prince, than a fortress, although the situation was favourable for defence.
The view in front is extremely beautiful for this part of the country.
Lord Ossory planted a grove of firs at the back of this spot, and erected,
in 1773, in the centre, a monument, consisting of an octagonal shaft raised
on four steps, surmounted by a cross, bearing a shield with Queen
Catherine's arms, of Castile and Arragon. This was designed by Mr. Essex,
the improver of King's College, Chapel, and is very neat, but of small
dimensions. On a tablet inserted in the base of the cross, is the following
inscription, from the pen of Horace Walpole, Earl of Orford, which when
read on the spot, excites some degree of interest:--
In days of yore, here Ampthill's towers were seen,
The mournful refuge of an injured queen;
Here flowed her pure, but unavailing tears,
Here blinded zeal sustained her sinking years.
Yet Freedom hence her radiant banner wav'd,
And Love avenged a realm by priests enslav'd;
From Catherine's wrongs a nation's bliss was spread,
And Luther's light from lawless Henry's bed.