CAIRO, THE GREATEST CITY IN AFRICA.
Cairo is situated at the head of the Delta of the Nile, where the river
emerges from among the hills and makes its course through the alluvial
plain formed by the annual deposits of silt. Its name, in the Arabic
tongue, signifies "The victorious capital."
Below Cairo the Delta spreads out in the form of a half-opened fan to
its broadened base on the Mediterranean Sea.
Standing at the citadel, which occupies the highest ground in the city,
we may from this elevation perceive the dividing line between the barren
sandy hills of the desert and the well-watered fertile plains of the
Nile basin. Spread out before us is a royal panorama of city, river,
plain, and hill.
Just across the river we behold the pyramids of Gizeh rising toward the
east, together with the Great Pyramid, which is next in size, and
another much smaller. Close by is the Sphinx, but we cannot discern it
at this distance.
A few miles farther to the south rise the pyramids of Sakkarah, which
are nearly as impressive as the others. They are near the site of the
ancient city of Memphis.
As we look down upon the city of Cairo, we perceive a hundred or more
minarets pointing upwards to the sky. On the outskirts of the city the
desolate hills rise to a considerable height. It is here that the hills
on either side approach each other so closely as to narrow the valley
between them to a width of but five miles.
The citadel of Cairo was built by the famous Saladin in the twelfth
century; he took the stones with which to build it from the small
pyramids of Gizeh. It stands at the southeast corner of the city, which
it seems to crown. The imposing effect of the citadel would be much
greater, did not the barren hill in the rear tower over it, thus
dwarfing its height.
The citadel is well worthy of description. It is really a small town
containing several objects of interest. The old palace of Saladin is no
longer in existence. On its former site stands the rich and imposing
mosque of Mohammed Ali. It is of modern construction, built after the
style of the mosques of Constantinople. So lofty and airy is its
interior that the effect is most pleasing.
The court is paved with square blocks of white marble. Cloisters,
supported by columns of alabaster, surround it on three sides. The
interior of the mosque is also of alabaster and is surmounted by a lofty
dome supported on four massive square pillars. Unlike many of the
mosques of Cairo, this mosque is clean and well kept.
The old mosque--for centuries the royal mosque of Cairo--still stands in
the center of the citadel. It is, however, in an advanced state of decay
and ruin. Near by is St. Joseph's Well, some two hundred and ninety feet
deep. Tradition says that the well, which was built by the ancient
Egyptians, was, when discovered by Saladin, nearly choked with sand,
which he caused to be removed.
The well is about twelve feet square. A gently sloping staircase on the
outside descends to the level of the bottom of the well, which is said
to be at the level of the Nile. This staircase is no longer used.
Travelers, by payment of a small fee, have the privilege of looking at
it.
To reach the well we must be willing to wade through deep sand, and to
slide down a steep incline some forty feet, before we can hope to gaze
down into the illustrious hole. Probably no vertical shaft was ever so
impressive as this.
Cairo contains nearly three hundred mosques, the minarets of which are
not only the most beautiful, but the most imposing of any the traveler
sees in the Mohammedan world.
To one standing in the citadel, the city presents some of the most
striking and picturesque views to be found in the East. Looking beyond
the mosques and their towering minarets, some built of alternate layers
of red and white stone, we behold the graves of the califs, the white
mountains of Mohattan, the gigantic pyramids, the fertile plain of the
Nile, and the dreary stretch of the desert.
The life history of Egypt lies before us, and we have but to read the
interesting pages of the past, open to our view.
The city of Cairo was founded in 969. It was for ten generations under
the rule of the Fatimite califs of Africa, who came from Kairon bringing
the bones of their ancestors with them.
Towards the close of the twelfth century Saladin usurped the government.
In the middle of the thirteenth century a descendant of Saladin was
deposed. Cairo then remained, until the early part of the sixteenth
century, under the government of a line of Mameluke kings, when it was
stormed by Sultan Selim.
Under the new rule, Cairo became somewhat European in its character. The
ambition of the khedive was to make his capital into a Paris of the
East.
[Illustration: A STREET SCENE IN CAIRO.]
Cairo still retains, however, many features strongly suggestive of
Arabic origin. We find still its labyrinth of narrow lanes, its
flat-roofed houses without chimneys, or windows, its large bazaars, in
which all kinds of Oriental ware are exposed for sale, and its forests
of minarets.
The narrow streets are in many places arched over; the bazaars are dark
and gloomy, and the houses are built of variegated brick with
interlinings of wood.
The city is divided into different quarters; one being appropriated to
the Turks, one to the Christians, one to the Jews, etc.,--each separated
from the adjoining one by a strong gate at the end of the streets. These
gates are closed at night and are guarded by a porter, who opens them
when any one wishes to pass out.
The great bulk of the population of Cairo consists of Arabs. Their
ancestors were the original conquerors of the land. The ruling class of
the city now consists of Turks. The tradesmen and the cultivators of the
soil are all of Arabic ancestry. Then, too, we find the Copts,
descendants of the ancient Egyptians, the original lords of the soil.
Jews, Syrians, Africans, and Europeans make up the residue of the
population.
As we pass through the streets of Cairo, we cannot fail to notice the
great number of blind persons among those who throng these narrow
thoroughfares. Here, as in other parts of Egypt, ophthalmia is
prevalent.
It has been stated that out of every four Egyptians there will be found
one blind man, another with only one eye, another blear-eyed, and one
with perfect sight. The intensity of the light does not seem to cause
this blindness. It seems due, rather, to the great amount of dust and to
a general want of cleanliness from infancy.
Another cause, too, is assigned for this misfortune. As far back as the
days of Mohammed, fathers looked forward with dread to the time when
their sons would be obliged to enter military service.
Many a father, to avert this fate for his children, preferred to destroy
their eyesight in infancy, or to injure the eyes by cutting the pupils,
rather than to see his sons claimed as soldiers when they had reached
manhood.
About a mile beyond the walls of the city are the tombs of the califs.
These are magnificent, imposing buildings, and may be considered
beautiful specimens of Arabian architecture.
The public gardens of the city are also an attractive feature,
consisting, as they do, of groves of orange, citron, and palms,
intermingled with vines.