CHAPTER XXIX.

SOME PECULIAR FEATURES OF AFRICAN SOIL.

In making some of his early explorations Livingstone passed over a

country, the firm, compact soil of which was perfectly level. Here he

found a little soil covering a limelike tufa deposit. This extended over

a tract of several hundred miles. It supported a vegetation of fine,

sweet, short grass, and baobab and other trees.

In several parts of this tract he found large salt pans, as they are

termed. One was fifteen miles broad and one hundred miles long.

Although these curious spots seemed perfectly level, yet they have a

slight slope to the northeast, towards which the rain water, which

sometimes covers them, gently trickles. The salt dissolved in the water

has in this way been gradually transferred to one large pan lying to the

northeast. On this may be seen a cake of salt and lime an inch and a

half thick. Some of these pans have merely a covering of salty lime;

others are covered with a thick deposit of shells.

These shells are identical with those of the mollusk species of Lake

N'gami. There appear to be three varieties, spiral, univalve, and

bivalve.

Livingstone found that in every salt pan of the country there is a

spring of water on one side. The water of the spring is brackish. In one

instance he found two springs, one salter than the other.

He was of the opinion that the supply could not come from beds of rock

salt; for, where the natives have removed the salt from the pans, no new

deposit has ever formed.

He thought it probable that these salt deposits are the remains of the

slightly brackish lakes of antiquity. Large portions of these lakes

must, in the course of ages, have evaporated to leave a deposit where

the waters have receded.

An instance of this kind is Lake N'gami; for the waters of the lake when

low become brackish.

The largest quantities of salt have been found in the deepest hollows or

in the lowest valleys, where there is no outlet. Livingstone cites an

instance of a fountain, the temperature of which was upwards of 100 deg.

This fountain, though strongly impregnated with salt, had no deposit,

because situated on a flat portion of the country.

When these salt deposits occur in a flat country with a tufa layer

covering the soil, a chemical change takes place in the soil; the tufa

is dissolved and the ground kept in a state unfavorable to the growth of

plants.

Livingstone discovered one large salt pan with a deposit of salt an inch

and a half in thickness. This deposit contained bitter salt in addition,

probably the nitrate of lime. In order to make the deposit wholesome and

palatable, the natives mix the salt with the juice of a gummy plant.

They then place the mixture in the sand and build a fire over it to bake

it. The action of the fire renders the lime insoluble and tasteless.

The natives in the vicinity of this salt pan keep large flocks of sheep

and goats at various points on the outskirts of the desert. These flocks

thrive wonderfully wherever salt and bushes are to be found.

The milk of goats does not coagulate readily, like that of cows, on

account of its rich quality. The natives have discovered that by mixing

a tea made from the fruit of a special plant with the milk of goats they

can cause it to coagulate quickly.

It is the custom among some of the natives to put the milk into sacks of

untanned hide from which the hair has been removed. When these sacks are

hung in the sun the milk soon thickens. The whey is then drawn off by a

plug at the bottom of the sack. Fresh milk is then added, until a thick

sour curd fills the sack. When one becomes accustomed to this, its taste

is delicious.

The richer natives mix this milk with the porridge they make from their

meal. It is considered very nutritious and strengthening, and takes the

place of our roast beef for nutriment.

The natives, in speaking scornfully of those who are poor or weak, use

the expression, "They are water-porridge men;" since they cannot afford

to mix their porridge in the approved way, and hence cannot expect to

gain strength.

Speaking of other sections of the country, Livingstone tells us that he

found some portions capped by a conglomerate rock mixed with iron. In

many places the iron looked as if it had been melted; for the rounded

masses resembled slag in an iron foundry, and the under surface was

smooth and even.

Probably this deposit was of an aqueous origin; for it contained

water-worn pebbles of various kinds. These were generally small in size.

Below the conglomerate lay a mass of pale red, hardened sandstone, and

beneath that a layer of what are called trap rocks. Lowest of all lay a

coarse-grained sandstone, which contained a few pebbles. Occasionally a

white rock of lime formation was found, and also banks of loose, round

pebbles of quartz.

The land slopes contained bogs surrounded by clumps of straight, lofty

evergreen trees, which looked extremely graceful on a ground of

yellowish grass. Many of these bogs pour forth a solution of iron. These

exhibit the prismatic colors upon their surface.

It would be of interest to note the curious conditions and formations of

the soil in other sections, but we must pass on to other views.

Those of you who are interested in the life of Livingstone will find

many features of the soil described in the journals this explorer

bequeathed to the world.

The World and Its People, Book VII: Views in Africa · 第 29 / 85 章