VIEWS OF THE CONGO BASIN.
The Congo, as far as Ponta de Lenha, or Wood Point, at a distance of
thirty-four miles from Banana Point, is navigable by large seagoing
steamers. Above this place the river grows rapidly shallow. Though
shallow at any time, its waters become very much affected during the
change of seasons.
The next important settlement beyond Wood Point is Boma. This, like
Banana Point, is a great factory town. Numerous warehouses, belonging to
English, Dutch, French, and Portuguese trading companies, comprise its
main features.
These different companies own many steamers, both large and small. The
small steamers are for river traffic; the large ones ply between Europe
and the coast. Stanley found these steamers a frequent feature in the
rather monotonous scene; for, at the time of his arrival on the west
coast, the Lower Congo, between Banana Point and Boma, had all the
bustling appearance of a mercantile river of some importance.
Boma is a most attractive spot in the landscape of this vast region,
which stretches far and wide. To the north rise the ridges of a long,
uneven mass of hills. Against the background of sultry sky they look
cool and beautiful in their blue coloring, seen through the hazy
distance. Southward lies a miniature repetition of these hills. In the
foreground and midway in the picture, the mighty Congo sweeps towards
one on the left, away from one on the right. Silently, steadily, with
even pace, it moves onward to the sea.
After a rainy season the whole country rejoices in a carpet of velvety
green; a few months later, and the relentless rays of a tropical sun
scorch leaf and blade to a dreary waste in the landscape.
Then the earth, dry as tinder, offers an inviting field for the bush
fires, which, departing, leave as a legacy only burning embers, where
once flourished the brilliant flowers, dense underbrush, and verdant
grasses of a tropical world.
But these are not the only features to be found in this section to-day.
Here may be seen machine shops ringing with the clang of busy workmen,
iron sheds, and coal yards. Here, too, is a whole settlement of European
houses, and a small town of huts, which serve as the dwellings of the
native workmen. Situated on an elevated, airy site, a large, handsomely
designed hospital greets the eye. While, as a crowning feature, a
strong, substantial iron pier extends far out into the river.
Thus can we get some little idea of what the energy and the perseverance
of the white man have accomplished within the last few years.
About forty miles from Boma the Congo suddenly changes its character,
and temporarily becomes a veritable Colorado River. Madly,
tempestuously, it rushes downward in its course, through a canon of
bold, bare rocks, which tend to form a succession of falls and rapids.
The foot of this canon forms a natural limit to navigation from the sea.
Hence, all goods for the upper river stations have to be carried
overland.
It was at this point that Stanley formed his first settlement. Just at
the foot of the rapids, on the right bank of the river, the mountain of
Vivi rises. About three hundred and fifty feet above the river, on an
irregular plateau of the mountain, Stanley set to work.
First of all, the plateau was leveled, the immense rocks that reared
their heads here and there were ground to pieces and used for road and
house foundations. A road was built from the narrow beach to the
selected site. Several houses were built, not only for the
representatives of European nations, but for the natives also. Last but
not least, a large garden was made by transporting the rich soil of the
valley and filling in a tract previously excavated for the purpose.
This garden in a short time became a source of rest and enjoyment to the
white residents at the station. It was the only spot on the bare and
sterile hills where a particle of shade could be found from the glaring
heat of the sun.
Stanley's great success in all his expeditions was due to the fact that
he believed in the nobility of labor. It is interesting to learn that,
during the work of founding the settlement, Stanley showed such skill in
pulverizing the scattered rocks with his sledge hammer as to earn the
name of Stone-breaker from the native chiefs. He soon became known by
this title among all the tribes dwelling upon the Congo.
At the end of three months the settlement at Vivi was completed. Leaving
an American, Mr. Sparhawk, in charge, Stanley proceeded to Isangila. His
object was to discover in which direction to build the projected road.
From Vivi to Isangila, we must remember, the river is unnavigable. The
numerous cataracts and rapids of Livingstone Falls make a formidable
obstruction. Isangila lies about fifty miles from Vivi. The interlying
country is of an exceedingly rocky, rugged character.
The well-worn roads of the natives led, as is the custom, up and down
the hills and valleys. "Straight as Roman roads," it was not possible
for a wagon road to be laid over such ground.
After much planning and arduous labor a road was completed to Isangila.
From this point, goods brought overland from Vivi could be transported
by boats launched upon the river. Then, with the exception of the upper
Livingstone Falls, the wide stretches of the Congo from Isangila to the
foot of Stanley Falls formed a natural highway, which required only
navigation.
Stanley's journal gives many details of the work of building the road
from Vivi to Isangila. This road, which was fifteen feet broad, took a
year to complete, but when finished it was a masterpiece. So strong was
it, that heavy wagons, even when laden with steamers, launches, and
boats, could safely travel over it.
Just above the cataracts, which mark the sudden decline from Stanley
Pool to the river current, the settlement of Leopoldville was founded on
the southern bank of the stream. It has an excellent situation on the
northwest corner of the pool which serves as the connecting link between
the Lower and Upper Congo.
On a piece of lofty ground, sloping down to the river and overlooking
Kintamo Bay, Stanley decided to clear a site and begin to build.
Upon a long, wide terrace, which he cut out of the hillside, various
buildings were erected. The largest house and all the headquarters were
stoutly built of wood, and then plastered over with clay to the depth of
two feet. This was to insure a fort in case of subsequent hostilities,
when a garrison would be needed.
A little distance off the native village was built. Its proportions were
considerable, as it had to accommodate upwards of one hundred and fifty
natives.
The headquarters were commodious. They comprised five bedrooms, a large
dining room, and a strong magazine. A large garden was laid out, and
sheds and houses for live stock of various sorts were erected.
Petty acts of hostility committed by one of the native tribes occasioned
much annoyance to the settlers. In order to preserve peace Stanley had
resource to a rite known as blood brotherhood. He thus describes this
curious performance, which he had frequently taken part in. The ceremony
took place between Stanley and a native chief, Ngalyema.
"We crossed arms, an incision was made in each arm, some salt was placed
on the wound, and then a mutual rubbing took place, while the great
fetich man of Kintamo pronounced an inconceivable number of curses on my
head if I ever proved false. Susi, formerly Livingstone's head man, not
to be outdone by him, solicited the gods to visit unheard-of atrocious
vengeances on Ngalyema if he dared to make the slightest breach in the
sacred brotherhood, which made him and the Stone-breaker one and
indivisible forever."
Stanley thus describes the town: "Leopoldville, with its one-story block
house, commanding from its windows all approaches, impregnable to
musket-armed natives, and proof against fire, despite its grass roof,
because underneath that grass roof there was an earth roof two feet
thick, on which fire might burn itself out harmlessly, offered a safe
refuge, should trouble arise.
"The terrace was long and wide--the native village was formed of one
broad street--flanked by a row of clay huts on either side. Slanting
from a point thirty feet below the block house, and sloping gently down
to the landing place, gardens of young bananas and vegetables extended
beyond these huts. Water was handy, fuel was abundant."
From the summit of Leopold Hill, above the station, a most magnificent
view lies before one. "The vast circle of water formed by Stanley Pool,
the amphitheater of rocky mountains and lofty white cliffs, the large
island of Bamu with many attendant satellites, combine to make a scene
of a striking character."