THE ZAMBESI, THE RIVER OF SOUTHEAST AFRICA.
The extensive region in Southeast Africa was described in the
geographies of the middle ages under the name of the empire of
Monomotapa. It is shown upon the old time maps as being dependent upon
the river Zambese, or Zambere, for drainage.
The course of this river is, in the main, correctly designated upon
these maps, and several large towns are shown as having a location upon
its banks. A small lake is also indicated, not far from the actual
position of Lake N'gami, whose real existence was not proved until
within comparatively a few years.
This lake is now considered one of the most southern of inland waters
which have any communication with the modern Zambesi River and the more
eastern lakes.
On the old maps the Nyassa and the more northern lakes, Victoria Nyanza
and Tanganyika, are given with a good deal of accuracy.
We must believe, then, that those who compiled these early maps must
have had some definite knowledge of these regions.
It is believed that they gained this knowledge from the Arabs. Various
settlements were located along the eastern and southeastern coast of
Africa, extending from the Red Sea to Sofala.
Strange to say, although the lower region of the Zambesi, for a distance
of three hundred miles at least, has been in the hands of the Portuguese
since the early part of the sixteenth century, yet it is only since the
middle of the present century that we have succeeded in getting any
accurate or scientific knowledge of the vast territory.
This knowledge we owe to the untiring exertion of such intrepid African
explorers as Dr. Kirk, Charles Andersson, Dr. Livingstone, and others.
Upon Dr. Livingstone's map the total length of the main stream, from the
mouth to the point in the course where the Leeba River joins it, cannot
be less than twelve hundred miles.
The Leeba River proceeds from Lake Dilolo, which is situated on the
summit of the watershed which divides the rivers that run northwest into
the Atlantic from those which run southeast into the Indian Ocean.
A curious fact is connected with Lake Dilolo; it appears to have two
outlets, one to the north and one to the south. The northern outlet
probably joins the system of lakes west of Tanganyika.
The river basin of the Zambesi has many features of interest. On the
north it probably terminates with a portion of the river system of the
Nile. On the west it is separated from the Orange River basin and the
various rivers running through Ovampo Land into the Atlantic by a rather
undefined watershed, which crosses the Kalahari Desert. On the northwest
the main waters very likely have their rise in the near vicinity of the
tributaries of the great Congo River.
A well-defined mountain range on the southeast separates the rivers
which flow into the Zambesi from those which unite to form the Limpopo.
The Zambesi River retains this name from a point only a short distance
above its mouth to the junction of the main stream with the Chobe.
By means of the Chobe the Zambesi is connected with the sluggish
intermingling streams of the N'gami region. Flowing on after its
junction with the Chobe, the river is known under another name, the
Leambye.
Our most accurate knowledge of the river extends as far as its union
with the Leeba. At this point it seems to make a sudden bend to the
northeast and form a network of streams. These mingle with one another,
and, far to the east, seem to form several other connections with the
main stream, if we can believe the reports of the natives.
The portion of Central South Africa through which the Zambesi flows may
be regarded as an extensive table-land, or plateau.
This vast table-land stands from three to four thousand feet above the
level of the sea. On its outer edge it is fringed by a border of
basaltic rocks.
The river cuts its way through the rocks of this region to form one of
the most strikingly picturesque scenes upon the globe.
It was to this section of the river that Livingstone gave the name
Victoria Falls. The natives gave it the odd name Mosiotunge. This may be
translated to mean "Smoke sounds there," or "Smoke which sounds."
The falls of the Zambesi have been compared to those of Niagara. Charles
Livingstone, a brother of Dr. Livingstone, considered those of the
Zambesi more beautiful and more wonderful than those of Niagara.
The river in the vicinity of the falls is more than a mile in breadth.
It flows peacefully along its bed and plunges suddenly into a fissure
three hundred feet deep, which lies directly in its course.
This fissure is scarcely two hundred feet wide. It is by no means an
even opening in the rocks, but for several miles runs in and out in a
series of zigzags, which are separated from each other by four vertical
promontories of basaltic rock. These promontories are hardly as wide as
the fissure. They are so narrow, that if we could stand on the center of
one of them we could easily toss a stone into the chasm lying on either
hand. It is not known accurately how far below the falls this chasm
extends.
The height of the cataract has been estimated as twice that of Niagara.
In flood time the volume of water pouring over the falls is very
probably much greater than that at Niagara.
Dr. Livingstone relates that, when he visited these falls, one of the
first questions asked by a native warrior was, "Have you smoke that
sounds in your country?"
[Illustration: "SMOKE-RESOUNDING" FALLS OF THE ZAMBESI.]
The natives were too much in awe of these falls to approach near enough
to them to examine them. They viewed them with fear and wonder from a
distance. They would refer to the vapor and noise with the remark,
"Smoke _does_ sound there!"
Livingstone learned that at one time another name had been given to
these falls by the natives. He was unable to find the exact translation
of the name, but believed it to have meant "seething caldron."
Embarking in a canoe Livingstone, after about twenty minutes' sail, came
in sight of the falls. The columns of vapor, so appropriately called
smoke, rose to a distance of five or six miles. He had noticed much the
same appearance when large tracts of grass were burning on the African
plains.
As he looked on the wonderful sight, five columns of smoke arose. They
seemed to bend in the direction of the wind, as if to lean against a low
ridge covered with trees. Seen from a distance, the tops of the columns
appeared to mingle with the clouds. White below, and somewhat darker
above, the resemblance was a striking one.
The whole scene was most beautiful. The banks of the river and the
islands dotting the stream were covered with foliage and vegetation of
the most beautiful form and color. At that season of the year several of
the trees were covered with blossoms.
Towering over all stood the great burly baobab, with its enormous
branches, each as large as the trunk of a tree. To add to the beauty of
the scene, groups of graceful palms waved their feather-shaped leaves in
the air, against the background of the sky.
To Livingstone the sight of these trees, native to Africa, was always
suggestive of "far from home." He could not remain unconscious of the
foreign tone they gave to every picture of the landscape.
A silvery-leaved tree, which bore a strong resemblance to the cedar of
Lebanon, stood in pleasing contrast with one of cypress-like form and
dark-colored foliage, dotted over with scarlet fruit. Here were trees,
too, like our spreading oak; others like our elms and chestnuts.
No one could picture the beauty of the scene as it revealed itself to
Livingstone's appreciative eyes. To him it seemed as if so lovely a
scene could have been gazed upon only by angels in their flight.
The wonder had never before been viewed by white men; for none had ever
penetrated the mysterious realms of the Zambesi waters. Mountains in the
background was the only feature lacking to make the picture perfect.
Livingstone found that the falls are bounded on three sides by high
ridges. These ridges are from three hundred to four hundred feet high,
and are covered with forests. Here and there the red soil appears among
the trees.