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GUIDE OF THE DESERT
by
GUSTAVE AIMARD
And Edited by Percy B. St. John
London
John and Robert Maxwell
Milton House, Shoe Lane, Fleet Street
and
35, St. Bride Street, Ludgate Circus.
(From the Collected Works 1863-1885)
CONTENTS
I. A PRISONER.
II. THE GAUCHO.
III. THE RANCHO.
IV. THE FAZENDA DO RIO D'OURO.
V. O SERTÃO.
VI. TAROU NIOM.
VII. THE MARQUIS DE CASTELMELHOR.
VIII. A NOBLE BANDIT.
IX. THROUGH THE DESERT.
X. THE GUAYCURUS.
XI. A STRATEGIC ASSAULT.
XII. THE PAYAGOA VILLAGE.
XIII. THE CHASE.
XIV. DISASTER.
XV. EL VADO DEL CABESTRO.
XVI. FRIENDS AND ENEMIES.
XVII. THE PEONS.
XVIII. SAN MIGUEL DE TUCUMÁN.
XIX. LA MONTONERA.
XX. THE SOIRÉE.
NOTICE.
Gustave Aimard was the adopted son of one of the most
powerful Indian tribes, with whom he lived for more than
fifteen years in the heart of the Prairies, sharing
their dangers and their combats, and accompanying them
everywhere, rifle in one hand and tomahawk in the other.
In turn squatter, hunter, trapper, warrior, and miner,
Gustave Aimard has traversed America from the highest
peaks of the Cordilleras to the ocean shores, living from
hand to mouth, happy for the day, careless of the morrow.
Hence it is that Gustave Aimard only describes his own
life. The Indians of whom he speaks he has known--the
manners he depicts are his own.
CHAPTER I.
A PRISONER.
Loading in the environs of Barbara Bay, Cape Horn, I was surprised,
with two companions, by the Patagonians, and made prisoner. I had the
pain of witnessing from the cliffs the departure of the whaler on board
of which I had entered at Havre as harpooner.
It was with a deep pang of grief, and eyes bathed in tears, I saw the
white sails of my ship disappear on the horizon, and the sea become
solitary once more.
I little suspected that the vessel I then saw for the last time was
doomed to some terrible fate. Nothing was ever heard of her again.
Two hours later, stripped of our clothes and tied by the wrists to the
tails of Patagonian horses, we were carried off into the interior of
the country.
The Patagonians, with regard to whom travellers relate so many fables,
are neither so gigantic nor so evil as generally represented.
They are sturdily independent. The least yoke galls them, and rather
than submit to the will of a chief, they rush off into exile, and
submit to the most terrible privations.
We were not ill-used by our captors, but I was at length alone. One of
my companions went raving mad, the other committed suicide. I was kept
alive, I believe, by the spirit of hope.
I was twenty years of age, and had a constitution of iron, as well as
a buoyancy of spirits, a boldness and firmness, which saved me from
myself, by permitting me to look upon my position in its true light.
Cruel as it was, it was far from being desperate.
My first care was, by invariable complaisance, to secure the goodwill
of the savages, in which I succeeded pretty well, more easily, indeed,
than I should have dared to hope.
However, when in the evening after a whole day's journey in the
interminable steppes of Patagonia, I threw myself, overcome with
fatigue, before the bivouac fire, while the savages laughed and sang
among themselves, I often felt my heart on the point of bursting by
reason of the efforts I made to suppress my sighs.
How many times have I felt my courage fail! How many times has the
thought of suicide burst upon my mind! But, always at the most
critical moment, the hope of deliverance arose to put new life into
my heart; my sufferings were calmed little by little, my frame ceased
to be agitated, and I slept, murmuring in a gentle voice one of those
national refrains which are, for the exile, a sweet and far-off echo of
the absent country.
Fourteen months thus passed away, hour by hour, second by second, in an
incessant and frightful torture.
Always on the watch to seize an opportunity of escaping, but not
wishing to leave anything to the risk of failure, I had had the
greatest care not to awaken the drowsy mistrust of the Patagonians.
I always affected, on the contrary, not to wander too far from the
tribe; so the Indians had at last come to allow me to enjoy comparative
liberty amongst them; and instead of compelling me to follow them
on foot, they decided of their own accord to allow me to mount on
horseback.
It was only on horseback that I could dream of escaping.
The Patagonians are some of the first horsemen in the world. In their
school I made rapid progress; and, however wild and vicious might be
the horse that they gave me, in a few minutes I subdued him, and made
myself completely his master.
Our wandering and purposeless journeys conducted us at last to about
ten leagues from the Carmen of Patagonia, the most advanced fort
constructed by the Spaniards on the Río Negro, at the extreme frontier
of their former possessions.
The troop camped for the night at a little distance from the river,
near an abandoned farm.
The opportunity for which I had waited so long had come at last. I
prepared to profit by it, convinced that if I did not escape now, I
should die a slave.
I will not fatigue the reader with the details of my flight; I will
content myself with simply saying that after a devious journey, which
lasted seven hours, and during which I constantly felt the smoking
nostrils of the horses on my track, on the croup of the one I rode;
after having escaped twenty times by a miracle from the bolas which the
Patagonians threw at me, and from the sharpened points of their long
lances, I came unexpectedly upon a patrol of Buenos Airean horsemen, in
the midst of whom I fell fainting, overcome by fatigue and excitement.
The Patagonians, suddenly taken aback by the appearance of white men,
whom the high grass had hidden from them till that time, turned tail
with fright, and fled away, howling with fury.
I was saved!
By my singular equipment--all the clothing I had on was a frazada
(blanket) in rags, fastened round the body by a leather strap--the
soldiers at first took me for an Indian, a mistake which was rendered
more natural by my complexion, bronzed by the severity of the seasons
to which I had been so long exposed and which had assumed nearly the
colour of copper. As soon as I regained consciousness, I hastened to
disabuse them as well as I could, for at that time I could only speak
the Spanish language very imperfectly.
The brave Buenos Aireans listened with signs of the liveliest sympathy
to the recital of my sufferings, and lavished on me the kindest
attentions.
My entry into Carmen, in the midst of my preservers, was a veritable
triumph.
It required nearly a month to enable me to recover from the long
sufferings which I had endured, and from the privations of all kinds to
which I had, during so long a period, been condemned; but, thanks to
the attention by which I was surrounded, and especially thanks to my
youth and the vigour of my constitution, I at last regained my health.
The governor of Carmen, who had become much interested in me, agreed at
my request to give me a passage on board a little Buenos Airean brig,
then anchored before the port, and I left for Buenos Aires, with the
firm intention of returning to France as soon as possible--so much had
the rude apprenticeship I had had to American life disgusted me with
travel.
But it was not to be so, and before again reaching France--I was to
wander for twenty years an adventurer in all the countries of the
world--from Cape Horn to Hudson's Bay, from China to Oceania, and from
India to Spitzburg.
On my arrival in Buenos Aires, my first care was to present myself to
the French consul, to ask of him the means of returning to Europe.
I was well received by the consul, who, on proofs of my identity,
immediately informed me that there was no French ship in the harbour,
but that need not disquiet me, since my family not receiving news of
me, and fearing that I might find myself in a difficult position from
the want of money, if any misfortune had happened to me during my
voyage, had written to all our agents in foreign countries, so that
anyone to whom I might present myself might give me, on my demand,
a sum adequate to supply my wants, and put me in a position, if I
wished it, to try my fortune where chance should have conducted me. He
concluded by adding that he held at my disposal the sum of 25,000f.,
and that he was ready to give it me immediately.
I thanked him, and only accepted three hundred piastres.
Some months passed, during which I made several agreeable
acquaintances, and perfected myself in the study of the Spanish
language.
On several occasions the consul had done me the kindness to inform me
that if I wished to leave for France, it would entirely depend upon my
own will; but each time, under some pretext or other. I declined his
offer, not being able to resolve to leave forever that land where I had
suffered so much, and to which, for that very reason, I was attached.
It is not with impunity that one has once tasted the wild pleasures
of independent, nomadic life, and breathed in liberty the embalmed
atmosphere of the high savannahs! I felt arising within me the passion
of an adventurer, and suffered a secret horror at the thought of
recommencing the colourless, circumscribed, and mean existence to which
European civilisation would have bound me.
And then I had bound myself in friendship with the gauchos. I made
excursions with them into the pampas, slept in their ranches,
hunted wild oxen and horses; all the poetry of the desert had taken
possession of me, and I only wished to return into the savannahs and
virgin forests, whatever might be the consequences to me of such a
determination.
In a word, one day, instead of embarking, as I had almost promised the
consul, I went to him, and explained my intentions.
The consul neither blamed me, nor gave me his approbation, but
contented himself with shaking his head with the melancholy smile of a
man in whom experience had killed all the illusions of youth, counted
out to me the sum I asked of him, shook my hand with a sigh of regret
and of pity, and, my business being at an end, I never saw him again.
Four days later, mounted on an excellent wild horse, and accompanied by
an Indian Guaranis, whom I had engaged to serve me as a guide, I left
Buenos Aires with the intention of proceeding by land to Brazil.
What business had I at Brazil?
I myself did not know.
But it is neither my history, nor that of my sensations, that I relate
here; all which precedes has no other design but that of preparing
for the recital, unhappily too true, that I now undertake, and which,
without that prelude, would not perhaps have been so clearly explained
as is necessary to its being clearly understood. Leaping, then, at a
single bound, over some hunting adventures of too little importance to
mention, I will transport myself to the banks of the Uruguay, a little
above the Salto, four months after my departure from Buenos Aires, and
I will enter immediately on the narrative.
After a rather fatiguing day, I stopped for the night in a pagonal,
half-inundated by reason of the sudden overflowing of the river, and
where it was necessary to go into the water nearly up to the horse's
belly, in order to gain a dry spot. For some days the Guaranis, whom
I had engaged at Buenos Aires, appeared to obey me with repugnance;
he was sad, morose, and answered only in monosyllables the questions
I was sometimes obliged to put to him. This turn of mind in my guide
disquieted me, as, knowing very well the character of the Indians, I
feared he might plot some treason against me; therefore, feigning not
to perceive his change of humour, I kept myself on my guard, resolved
to blow his brains out at the least hostile demonstration on his part.
As soon as we were encamped, the guide, notwithstanding the suspicions
I had conceived of him, manifested great activity in gathering dry wood
to light the fire for the evening, and to prepare our modest repast.
The supper over, each enveloped himself in his blanket, and gave
himself up to repose.
In the middle of the night I was suddenly awakened by a strange noise;
my first movement was to seize my gun, and to look around me.
I was alone; my guide had disappeared.
The night was dark, the fire extinguished; to complete my discomfiture,
my bivouac was about to be invaded by the waters of the river, the
overflowing of which continued with extreme rapidity.
I had not a moment to lose. I rose in haste, and leaping into the
saddle, I darted, with a loose rein, in the direction of a neighbouring
hill, the black outline of which was clearly marked on the sombre
background of the sky.
Here I was in comparative security. I passed the rest of the night
awake, as well to watch for the wild beasts, the howlings of which
I heard about the place where I had sought a refuge, as because my
present position had become critical--alone, abandoned in a desert
country, and completely ignorant of the route it was necessary to take.
On the rising of the sun, I examined the horizon around. As far as my
view could reach, reigned the most complete solitude; nothing gave me
ground for hope, so wild and desolate appeared the landscape.
This uncertainty, however, from a singular disposition of mind, did
not seriously affect me; my position, without being pleasant, had
nothing in it positively sad in itself. I possessed a good horse, arms,
supplies in abundance--what more could I desire? I, who for so long
a time had aspired to the adventurous life of the gaucho and of the
trapper?
Accordingly I took in good part the desertion of my guide, and prepared
myself, half laughing, half railing against the ingratitude of the
Guaranis, to commence my apprenticeship to the life of the desert.
My first care was to light a fire. I prepared a maté cimarron, that is
to say, without sugar; and, refreshed by this warm drink, I mounted my
horse, with the design of seeking my breakfast by killing a head or two
of game, an easy thing in the locality in which I found myself; then I
carelessly resumed my adventurous route.
Some days thus passed. One morning, at the moment when I was preparing
to light, or rather to rekindle, my bivouac fire to cook my breakfast,
I suddenly saw several venados rise from the midst of the high grass,
and, after having sniffed the wind, scamper away with extreme rapidity,
passing at a pistol shot from the thicket where I had established
myself for the night; at the same instant a flight of vultures passed
above my head, uttering discordant cries.
Novice as I still was in my new occupation, I instinctively understood
that something extraordinary was passing not far from me.
I made my horse lie down, tied my girdle round his nostrils to prevent
him neighing, and stretching myself on the ground, I waited with my
finger on the trigger of my gun, my heart palpitating, and eye and ear
on the watch. Carefully scanning the undulations of the high grass of
the plain stretched out before me, I was ready for every event.
I was crouching in the middle of a nearly impenetrable thicket. On
the outskirts of a wood which formed a kind of oasis in this desolate
wilderness, I found myself in an excellent ambuscade, and perfectly
sheltered from the danger I felt was approaching.
I did not deceive myself. Scarcely a quarter of an hour had passed
since the venados and the urubus had given me the first hint, than
the noise of a precipitate flight distinctly reached my ear. I soon
perceived a horseman lying on the neck of his horse, flying with wild
rapidity, and coming in a straight line towards the wood in which I was
concealed.
The horseman, when he had come within twenty paces, suddenly pulled
up his horse, leaped to the ground, and making a shelter of a rocky
projection, shrouded by a cluster of trees, loaded his gun, and,
leaning his body forward, appeared to listen to the sounds of the
desert.
This man, as far as it was possible for me to assure myself of it by a
hasty glance at him, appeared to belong to the white race; he was about
thirty-five or forty years of age; his energetic features, animated by
his rapid journey, and by emotion, were handsome, regular, stamped with
a certain nobility, and uncommon boldness; his figure was rather below
the middle height, but well made; his large shoulders denoted great
vigour; he wore the costume of the gauchos of the Banda Oriental, a
costume that I had myself adopted--a maroon jacket, a white waistcoat,
a sky blue chirapa, white calzoncillos with fringe, under blue cloth
trousers, a poncho thrown over the left shoulder, a knife sheathed
in the girdle of the chirapa behind his back, a red Phrygian bonnet,
slouched over the forehead, and allowing to escape ringlets of thick
black hair, which fell in disorder on his shoulders.
Suddenly the man threw himself backward, put his knee to the ground,
and shouldered his gun.
Ten horsemen started up, as if by enchantment, emerging with extreme
rapidity from the grass which, up to that time, had concealed them from
my view, and precipitated themselves, brandishing their long lances,
flourishing their terrible bolas above their heads, and howling with
fury, as they looked towards the spot where the gaucho was in ambush.
These horsemen were Indiæ bravos.