OUR EXPERIENCE IN BAKHTAR-ZEMIN (KABULISTAN)

In the beginning of the month Djemaziul-Evvel we left the river Nilab

and turned toward Kabul. For fear of the Afghans under Adam Khan, we

made a quick march through the night, and at daybreak we arrived at

the foot of the mountain. So far the Afghans had not seen us, but by

the time we had reached the top there were thousands of them gathered

together. We seized our guns, and with God's help managed to get out

of their way, and came to the town of Pershuer, _i.e._, Peshawur.

Soon after, we crossed the Khaiber Pass, and reached Djushai. In the

mountains we saw two rhinoceroses (_Kerkedans_),[156] each the size

of a small elephant; they have a horn on their nose about two inches

long. In Abyssinia these animals are much more plentiful.

Presently we reached Laghman,[157] and after a very toilsome journey

through Hezareland,[158] we entered Kabulistan and its capital Kabul.

Here I visited the two sons of Humayun, Mehemmed Hekim Mirza and

Perrukk Fal Mirza; I also saw Mun'im Khan, and, after presenting the

_ferman_ from Humayun, I was treated with much honor. Kabul itself

is a beautiful city, surrounded by mountains covered with snow, and

pleasure-gardens with running brooks. Pleasure and merriment prevailed

everywhere, feasting and banqueting were the order of the day. In every

corner were gaily dressed, slender _Lulis_[159] enticing one with music

and song to join the merry crowd; the populace, in fact, seemed to have

no thought for anything but for pleasure and enjoyment.

"Who would long for houris and the Paradise whose good fortune has

brought him amongst the _Lulis_ of Kabul?"

We, however, had no time for such frivolities, our only aim and object

was to reach home as soon as possible. Mun'im Khan remarked that the

roads were snowed up, that the Hindu Kush could not possibly be passed,

and that it would be far better for us to wait a few days in Kabul;

but I quickly replied that men could overcome mountains, if they had

the mind to do so. Thereupon the Governor commanded Mir Nezri, the

Chief of the Perashi and Peshai, to accompany me, and his men were

to conduct our horses and goods safely across the mountain pass. We

left accordingly in the beginning of Djemazi ul Evvel and came to

Karabag,[160] and from there to Tcharikar and Pervane or Mervan.

This was Nezri's native country. He collected his men, and they took

us across to the other side of the mountain. It was a very difficult

passage, but we accomplished it that day, and spent the night in a

village at the foot of the pass.

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