MY EXPERIENCES IN HINDUSTAN

In Multan I only visited the graves of the Sheiks Baha Bahaeddin,

Zekeria, Rukneddin, and Sadreddin. I received a blessing from Sheik

Mohammed Radjva, and, after receiving permission to continue my

journey from Sultan Mirmiram Mirza Hasan, we proceeded toward Lahore.

In Sadkere I visited Sheik Hamid, received his blessing, and in the

first days of the Month Shawwal we came to Lahore. The political state

of the country was as follows: After the death of Selim Shah a son of

Shir Khan, the former Sovereign of Hindustan, Iskender Khan, had come

to the throne. When the Padishah Humayun heard this he immediately

left Kabul and marched his army to India, took Lahore, and fought

Iskender Khan near Sahrand. He won the battle and took 400 elephants,

besides several cannon and 400 chariots. Iskender Khan escaped to the

fortress of Mankut, and Humayun sent Shah Abul-Maali with a detachment

of soldiers after him. Humayun himself proceeded to his residence at

Delhi and dispatched his officers to different places. The Ozbeg,

Iskender Khan, he sent to Agra, and others to Firuzshah Senbel,[127]

Bayana, and Karwitch. War raged on all sides, and when I arrived at

Lahore the Governor, Mirza Shah, would not let me continue my journey

until I had seen the Padishah (Humayun). After sending the latter

word of my arrival, he received orders to send me forthwith to Delhi.

Meanwhile a whole month had been wasted, but finally we were sent off

with an escort. The river Sultanpoor was crossed in boats and after

a journey of 20 days we arrived, toward the end of Dulkaada, by the

route of Firuzshah[128] in the capital of India, called Delhi. As soon

as Humayun heard of our arrival he sent the Khanikhanan[129] and other

superior officers with 400 elephants and some thousand men to meet

us, and, out of respect and regard for our glorious Padishah, we were

accorded a brilliant reception. That same day the Khanikhanan prepared

a great banquet in our honor; and as it is the custom in India to

give audience in the evening, I was that night introduced with much

pomp and ceremony into the Imperial hall. After my presentation I

offered the Emperor a small gift, and a chronogram upon the conquest

of India, also two gazels, all of which pleased the Padishah greatly.

Forthwith I begged for permission to continue my journey, but this

was not granted. Instead of that I was offered a _Kulur_[130] and the

governorship over the district of Kharcha. I refused, and again begged

to be allowed to go, but for only answer I was told that I must at

least remain for one year, to which I replied: "By special command of

my glorious Padishah I went by sea to fight the miserable unbelievers.

Caught in a terrible hurricane, I was wrecked off the coast of India;

but it is now my plain duty to return to render an account to my

Padishah, and it is to be hoped that Gujarat will soon be delivered

out of the hands of the Unbelievers." Upon this Humayun suggested the

sending of an envoy to Constantinople, to save my going, but this

I could not agree to, for it would give the impression that I had

purposely arranged it so. I persisted in my entreaties, and he finally

consented, adding, however: "We are now close upon the three months

of continuous _Birshegal_,[131] (_i.e._, the rainy season). The roads

are flooded[132] and impassable, remain therefore till the weather

improves. Meanwhile calculate solar and lunar eclipses, their degree of

latitude, and their exact date in the calendar. Assist our astrologers

in studying the course of the sun, and instruct us concerning the

points of the equator. When all this is done, and the weather should

improve before the three months are over, then thou shalt go hence."

All this was said solemnly and decisively. I had no alternative, but

must submit to my fate. I took no rest, however, but labored on night

and day. At last I had accomplished the astronomical observations,

and about the same time Agra fell into the hands of the Padishah. I

immediately wrote a chronogram for the occasion, which found much

favor. One day, during an audience, the conversation turned upon

Sultan Mahmud of Bukkur, and I suggested that some official contract

(_Ahdnameh_, _i.e._, "agreement") should be made with him, to which

Humayun agreed. The document was drawn up, and the Emperor dipping

his fist in saffron pressed it upon the paper, this being the

_Tughra_,[133] or Imperial signature. Thereupon the document was sent

to Sultan Mahmud.

The Sultan was much pleased, and both he and his Vizier Molla Yari

expressed their thanks for my intervention in a private letter, which I

showed to his Majesty, who had entrusted me with the transaction.

This incident furnished the material for a gazel, with which the

Sovereign was so delighted that he called me a second Mir Ali

Shir.[134] I modestly declined the epithet, saying that it would be

presumption on my part to accept such praise, that, on the contrary, I

should consider myself fully rewarded to be allowed to gather up the

gleanings after him. Whereupon the Sovereign remarked: "If for one

more year thou perfectest thyself in this kind of poetry thou wilt

altogether supplant Mir Ali Shir in the affections of the people of the

Djagatais." In a word, Humayun loaded me with marks of his favor. One

day I was talking to Khoshhal, the Imperial archer, and the Sovereign's

special confidant; a superb youth. He used to take part in the poetical

discussions, and provided me with material for two gazels, which soon

became popular all over India and were in everybody's mouth. The

same good fortune attended my acquaintance with the Afetabedji,[135]

Abdurrahman Bey, a courtier who also rejoiced in the confidence and

affection of the monarch, and was his constant companion in private

life. He also entered the poetical contest, and I composed two gazels

upon him.

In a word, poetical discussions were the order of the day, and I was

constantly in the presence of the Emperor. One day he asked me whether

Turkey was larger than India, and I said: "If by Turkey your Majesty

means Rum proper, _i.e._, the province of Siwas,[136] then India is

decidedly the larger, but if by Turkey you mean all the lands subject

to the ruler of Rum, India is not by a tenth part as large." "I mean

the entire Empire," replied Humayun. "Then," I said, "it appears to

me, your Majesty, that the seven regions over which Iskender (_i.e._,

Alexander the Great) had dominion, were identical with the present

Empire of the Padishah of Turkey. History records the life and the

reign of Iskender, but it is not reasonable to suppose that he actually

visited and personally ruled these seven regions, for the inhabited

world (the fourth part of the present inhabited world) is 180 degrees

longitude and from the equator about 60 degrees latitude. Its area,

according to astronomical calculations, covers 1,668,670 _fersahhes_.

It is therefore an utter impossibility for any man to visit and

govern all these lands in person. Perhaps he only owned a portion of

each of these regions (_Iklim_), in the same way as the Padishah of

Turkey does." "But has the ruler of Turkey possessions in all these

regions?" asked Humayun. "Yes, certainly," I replied, "the first is

Yemen, the second Mecca, the third Egypt, the fourth Aleppo, the fifth

Constantinople, the sixth Kaffa, and the seventh Ofen and Vienna.[137]

In each of these regions the Padishah of Turkey appoints his Beglerbeg

and Kadi, who rule and govern in his name. Moreover, I was told in

Gujarat, by the merchants Khodja Bashi and Kara Hasan (God alone knows

whether their story is true), that when the Turkish merchants in China

desired to insert the name of their Sovereign in the Bairam prayers on

Bairamday, they brought the request before the Khakan of China, stating

that their Sovereign was Padishah of Mecca, Medina, and the Kibla

(Direction of the prayer), and therefore entitled to have his name

inserted in the Bairam prayers. The Khakan, although an unbeliever, had

insight enough to see the justice of their request, which he granted

forthwith; he even went so far as to clothe the Khatib[138] in a robe

of honor and to make him ride on an elephant through the city. Ever

since that time the name of the Padishah of Turkey has been included

in the Bairam prayers, and to whom, I ask, has such honor ever before

been vouchsafed?" The Sovereign (Humayun), turning to his nobles, said:

"Surely the only man worthy to bear the title of Padishah is the ruler

of Turkey, he alone and no one else in all the world."

Another time we were talking about the Khan of the Crimea, and I

remarked that he also held his office under the Padishah of Turkey.

"But," said Humayun, "if that be so, how, then, has he the right of

the _Khutbe_?" "It is a well-known fact," I replied, "that my Padishah

alone has the power to grant the right of _Khutbe_ and of coinage."

This statement seemed to satisfy everybody and we prayed together for

the welfare of my Sovereign.

One day the Emperor planned a little excursion on horseback to visit

the graves of the holy Sheiks of Lahore, and I accompanied him. We

visited the graves of Shah Kutbeddin, the Pir of Delhi, of Sheik Nizam

Weli, Sheik Ferid Shekr-Ghendj, Mir Khosru Dehlevi, and Mir Husein

Dehlevi. When the conversation turned upon the poetical works of Mir

Khosru I quoted some of his best poems, and under their influence I

conceived a most telling distich. I turned to the Emperor, saying, "It

would be presumption on my part to measure my powers against those of

Mir Khosru,[139] but he has inspired me, and I would fain recite my

couplet before your Majesty." "Let us hear it," said Humayun, and I

recited the following:

"Truly great is only he who can be content with his daily bread.

For happier is he than all the kings of the earth."

"By God," cried the monarch, "this is truly sublime!"

It is not so much my object here to make mention of my poetic

effusions, but rather to show up Humayun's appreciation of poetry.

On another occasion I called upon Shahin Bey, the keeper of the

Imperial Seal, and asked him to use his influence to obtain permission

for me to depart. In order not to come empty-handed I brought him

two gazels, and begged him urgently to intercede for me. Shahin Bey

promised to do his best, and one day he actually brought me the glad

news that my petition had been granted, but that I was expected to

offer my request formally in verse. The rainy season was now at an end;

I wrote to the monarch, enclosing two gazels, which had the desired

effect, for I received not only permission to leave, but also presents

and letters of safe conduct.

All was ready for the start. Humayun had given audience on Friday

evening, when, upon leaving his castle of pleasure, the Muezzin

announced the Ezan just as he was descending the staircase. It was his

wont, wherever he heard the summons, to bow the knee in holy reverence.

He did so now, but unfortunately fell down several steps, and received

great injuries to his head and arm. Truly the proverb rightly says,

"There is no guarding against fate."

Everything was confusion in the palace, but for two days they kept the

matter secret. It was announced to the outer world that the Sovereign

was in good health, and alms were distributed amongst the poor. On

the third day, however, that was on the Monday, he died of his

wounds.[140] Well may the Koran say, "We come from God and to him do we

return."

His son Djelaleddin Ekber was at the time away on a journey to

visit Shah Ebul Maali, accompanied by the Khanikhanan.[141] He was

immediately informed of the sad event. Meanwhile the Khans and Sultans

were in the greatest consternation; they did not know how to act. I

tried to encourage them and told them how at the death of Sultan Selim

the situation was saved by the wisdom of Piri Pasha, who managed to

prevent the news of his death from being noised abroad. I suggested

that, by taking similar measures, they might keep the Sovereign's death

a secret until the Prince should return. This advice was followed. The

divan (council of State) met as usual, the nobles were summoned, and

a public announcement was made that the Emperor intended to visit his

country-seat, and would go there on horseback. Soon after, however,

it was announced that on account of the unfavorable weather the trip

had to be abandoned. On the next day a public audience was announced,

but as the astrologers did not prophesy favorably for it, this also

had to be given up. All this, however, somewhat alarmed the army, and

on the Tuesday it was thought advisable to give them a sight of their

monarch. A man called Molla Bi, who bore a striking resemblance to

the late Emperor, only somewhat slighter of stature, was arrayed in

the imperial robes and placed on a throne specially erected for the

purpose in the large entrance hall. His face and eyes were veiled. The

Chamberlain Khoshhal Bey stood behind, and the first Secretary in front

of him, while many officers and dignitaries, as well as the people from

the riverside, on seeing their Sovereign, made joyful obeisance to the

sound of festive music. The physicians were handsomely rewarded, and

the recovery of the monarch was universally credited.

I took leave of all the grandees, and with the news of the Emperor's

recovery I reached Lahore about the middle of the month Rebiul Evvel.

This was on a Thursday. Traveling by the way of Sani-Pata, Pani-Pata,

Kirnat, and Tani Sera, I came to Samani,[142] where I communicated the

news to the Governor that the Padishah (Humayun) was giving audiences,

and that he was in good health.[143] From there I went by the road

of Sahrandi to Matchuvara[144] and Bachuvara,[145] and crossing the

Sultanpoor by boat I returned to Lahore by a forced march. Meanwhile

Prince Djelaleddin Ekber had ascended the throne, and in Lahore and

many other places his name was inserted in the Friday prayers. Mirza

Shah, the Governor of Lahore, however, would not permit me to leave,

for he professed to have received orders from the new Emperor that

no one was to be allowed to go to Kabul and Kandahar. The only way

therefore was to go back to the Emperor (Ekber), and accordingly I went

as far as Kelnor, where I met Djelaleddin Ekber and the Khanikhanan

just opposite the fortress of Mankit.[146]

I was informed through Molla Pir Mehemmed,[147] the Khodja of Bairam

Khan, that during the interregnum I should remain where I was, and

that in a short time he would appoint me to some post either in Hind

or Sind, whichever I preferred. I hastened to produce my _ferman_,

given to me by the late Padishah, presenting him at the same time with

a chronogram on the death of his father. My verses pleased the Mirza

and, after examining the _ferman_ of his father, he gave me leave to

continue my journey, stipulating, however, that I should travel in

company with the four Begs, which he was about to send with troops to

Kabul.

Ebul Maali,[148] who meanwhile had been taken prisoner, was confined in

the castle of Lahore. In return for my chronogram I received a lakh for

traveling expenses, and began to prepare for my journey with the four

Begs.

Amongst the many strange and wonderful things I saw in India I must

make mention of a few. The unbelievers are called in Gujarat "Banian,"

and in India "Hindu." They do not belong to the Ehli-Kitab,[149] and

believe in fate (_kademi-alem_). When a man dies his body is burned

by the riverside. If the deceased leaves a wife past child-bearing

she is not burned; if, however, she is not past that age she is

unconditionally burned. If a wife of her own free will offers herself

to be burned, the relations celebrate the occasion with great

rejoicings. Should the Mohammedans interfere and forcibly prevent the

self-sacrifice, fate decrees that their king must die, and no other be

raised. For this reason, officers of the Padishah are always present on

such occasions, to prevent any act of violence.[150]

Another curious custom is the use of tame gazelles in hunting. A noose

is lightly thrown over their antlers, and then they are driven to mix

with the wild gazelles. Like seeks like, and the latter soon make up

to their tame companions, bringing their heads in close proximity to

those of the others. The noose which is round the antlers of the tame

animal falls over the head of the other and pulls it down. The more it

struggles the more it gets entangled, and can not possibly escape. This

method is in use all over India.

Buffaloes are very plentiful in the steppes. They are hunted with

elephants. Turrets are placed on the elephant's back, in which several

men are hidden. Thus they traverse the plain, and as soon as the

elephant comes up with the buffalo he attacks him with his teeth and

holds him till the hunters get off his back and capture him. Wild oxen

(_Gaukutas_)[151] are hunted in a similar manner, but they are much

stronger than other animals of their kind, and their tongue is supposed

to have such force that they can kill a man with it. The Emperor

Humayun once told me a story to the effect that one of these wild oxen,

having overtaken a man, flayed him with his tongue from head to foot.

The Emperor vouched for the truth of this story with an oath. The best

_kutas_ are found in the land of Bahr-itch, perhaps that accounts for

their being called _Bahri-Kutas_ (which means sea-_kutas_), although

they belong unquestionably to the terrestrial animals. I might go on

enumerating many more interesting and curious things to be seen in

India, but it would keep me too long.

About the middle of Rebiul Evvel we left for Kabul. We crossed the

River Lahore in ships, and came presently to another large stream,

which had to be crossed. Finding no ships at hand, we built a raft of

barrels and chairs and so managed to reach the other side. Next we

came to Bahara, where another river had to be crossed, this time in

ships. When I told the Governor (Khodja) of this place what Ekber had

commanded, he exclaimed, "God be merciful! As the Padishah was dead we

have not collected the taxes, the people still owe them. I will send

round, collect the moneys and hand them over to you."[152] Mir Babu's

and the other Begs who were of the company consulted together and

decided that as Shah Abul Maali had escaped from his prison in Lahore,

and might possibly have taken refuge with his brother Kihmerd Bey in

Kabul, it would not be safe for them to delay, but they suggested that

I should wait till the tribute-money was collected, and follow them as

soon as I could.

But I argued that the roads were unsafe and dangerous and that it

would be much better to keep all together. I acted on the principle

that "The contented mind shall be satisfied and the covetous man

shall be humbled." So I relinquished my claim upon the tribute-money

and continued my journey with the others. After crossing the rivers

Khoshab[153] and Nilab[154] in ships, I set foot upon the shore of

Bakhtar.[155]

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