The inside of the choir is ornamented by some highly esteemed sculpture
in wood. From the roof hangs a case of crystal, surrounded by rays of
gilt metal, and inclosing a nail, said to be one of those by which our
Saviour was nailed to the cross. The treasury belonging to this church is
reckoned the richest in Italy, after that of Loretto. It is composed of
jewels, relics, and curiosities of various kinds; but what is esteemed
above all the rest, is a small portion of Aaron’s rod, which is carefully
preserved there.
The Ambrosian Library is said to be one of the most valuable collections
of books and manuscripts in Europe. It is open a certain number of hours
every day; and there are accommodations for those who come to read or
make extracts.
In the Museum, adjoining to the Library, are a considerable number
of pictures, and many natural curiosities. Among these they shew a
human skeleton. This does not excite a great deal of attention, till
you are informed that it consists of the bones of a Milanese Lady, of
distinguished beauty, who, by her last will, ordained that her body
should be dissected, and the skeleton placed in this Museum, for the
contemplation of posterity. If this Lady only meant to give a proof of
the transient nature of external charms, and that a beautiful woman is
not more desirable after death than a homely one, she might have allowed
her body to be consigned to dust in the usual way. In spite of all the
cosmetics, and other auxiliaries which vanity employs to varnish and
support decaying beauty and flaccid charms, the world have been long
satisfied that death is not necessary to put the fair and the homely on
a level; a very few years, even during life, do the business.
There is no place in Italy, perhaps I might have said in Europe, where
strangers are received in such an easy, hospitable manner, as at Milan.
Formerly the Milanese Nobility displayed a degree of splendour and
magnificence, not only in their entertainments, but in their usual
style of living, unknown in any other country in Europe. They are under
a necessity at present of living at less expence, but they still shew
the same obliging and hospitable disposition. This country having, not
very long since, been possessed by the French, from whom it devolved
to the Spaniards, and from them to the Germans, the troops of those
nations have, at different periods, had their residence here, and, in the
course of these vicissitudes, produced a style of manners, and stamped a
character on the inhabitants of this duchy, different from what prevails
in any other part of Italy; and nice observers imagine they perceive in
Milanese manners the politeness, formality, and honesty imputed to those
three nations, blended with the ingenuity natural to Italians. Whatever
uneasiness the inhabitants of Milan may feel, from the idea of their
being under German government, they seem universally pleased with the
personal character of Count Fermian, who has resided here many years as
Minister from Vienna, equally to the satisfaction of the Empress Queen,
the inhabitants of Milan, and the strangers who occasionally travel this
way.
The Great Theatre having been burnt to the ground last year, there are
no dramatic entertainments, except at a small temporary playhouse, which
is little frequented; but the company assemble every evening in their
carriages on the ramparts, and drive about, in the same manner as at
Naples, till it is pretty late. In Italy, the ladies have no notion
of quitting their carriages at the public walks, and using their own
legs, as in England and France. On seeing the number of servants, and
the splendour of the equipages which appear every evening at the Corso
on the ramparts, one would not suspect that degree of depopulation, and
diminution of wealth, which we are assured has taken place within these
few years all over the Milanese; and which, according to my information,
proceeds from the burthensome nature of some late taxes, and the insolent
and oppressive manner in which they are gathered.
The natural productions of this fertile country must occasion a
considerable commerce, by the exportation of grain, particularly rice;
cattle, cheese, and by the various manufactures of silken and velvet
stuffs, stockings, handkerchiefs, ribands, gold and silver laces and
embroideries, woollen and linen cloths, as well as by some large
manufactures of glass, and earthen ware in imitation of china, which are
established here. But I am told monopolies are too much protected here,
and that prejudices against the profession of a merchant still exist in
the minds of the only people who have money. These cannot fail to check
industry, and depress the soul of commerce; and perhaps there is little
probability that the inhabitants of Milan will overcome this unfortunate
turn of mind while they remain under German dominion, and adopt German
ideas. The peasants, though more at their ease than in many other places,
yet are not so much so as might be expected in so very fertile a country.
Why are the inhabitants of the rich plains of Lombardy, where Nature
pours forth her gifts in such profusion, less opulent than those of the
mountains of Switzerland? Because Freedom, whose influence is more benign
than sunshine and zephyrs, who covers the rugged rock with soil, drains
the sickly swamp, and clothes the brown heath in verdure; who dresses
the labourer’s face with smiles, and makes him behold his increasing
family with delight and exultation; Freedom has abandoned the fertile
fields of Lombardy, and dwells among the mountains of Switzerland.