Naples.
The citizens of Naples form a society of their own, perfectly distinct
from the nobility; and although they are not the most industrious people
in the world, yet, having some degree of occupation, and their time being
divided between business and pleasure, they probably have more enjoyment
than those, who, without internal resources, or opportunities of active
exertion, pass their lives in sensual gratifications, and in waiting
the returns of appetite around a gaming table. In the most respectable
class of citizens, are comprehended the lawyers, of whom there are an
incredible number in this town. The most eminent of this profession hold,
indeed, a kind of intermediate rank between the nobility and citizens;
the rest are on a level with the physicians, the principal merchants, and
the artists; none of whom can make great fortunes, however industrious
they may be; but a moderate income enables them to support their rank in
society, and to enjoy all the conveniences, and many of the luxuries, of
life.
England is perhaps the only nation in Europe where some individuals, of
every profession, even of the lowest, find it possible to accumulate
great fortunes; the effect of this very frequently is, that the son
despises the profession of the father, commences gentleman, and
dissipates, in a few years, what cost a life to gather. In the principal
cities of Germany and Italy, we find, that the ancestors of many of those
citizens who are the most eminent in their particular businesses, have
transmitted the art to them through several generations. It is natural
to imagine, that this will tend to the improvement of the art, or
science, or profession, as well as the family fortune; and that the third
generation will acquire knowledge from the experience, as well as wealth
from the industry, of the former two; whereas, in the cases alluded to
above, the wheel of fortune moves differently. A man, by assiduity in a
particular business, and by genius, acquires a great fortune and a high
reputation; the son throws away the fortune, and ruins his own character
by extravagance; and the grandson is obliged to recommence the business,
unaided by the wealth or experience of his ancestors. This, however, is
pointing out an evil which I should be sorry to see remedied; because it
certainly originates in the riches and prosperity of the country in which
it exists.
The number of priests, monks, and ecclesiastics of all the various orders
that swarm in this city, is prodigious; and the provision appropriated
for their use, is as ample, I am assured, that the clergy are in
possession of considerably above one-third of the revenue of the whole
kingdom, over and above what some particular orders among them acquire
by begging for the use of their convents, and what is gotten in legacies
by the address and assiduity of the whole. The unproductive wealth,
which is lodged in the churches and convents of this city, amounts also
to an amazing value. Not to be compared in point of architecture to the
churches and convents of Rome, those of Naples surpass them in riches,
in the value of their jewels, and in the quantity of silver and golden
crucifixes, vessels, and implements of various kinds. I have often heard
these estimated at a sum so enormous as to surpass all credibility;
and which, as I have no opportunity of ascertaining with any degree of
precision, I shall not mention. This wealth, whatever it amounts to, is
of as little use to the kingdom, as if it still remained in the mines
of Peru; and the greater part of it, surely, affords as little comfort
to the clergy and monks as to any other part of the community; for
though it belongs to their church, or their convent, yet it can no more
be converted to the use of the priests and monks of such churches and
convents, than to the tradesmen who inhabit the adjacent streets. For
this reason I am a good deal surprised, that no pretext, or subterfuge,
has been found, no expedient fallen on, no treaty or convention made, for
appropriating part of this at least, to the use of some set of people
or other. If the clergy were to lay their hands on it, this might be
found fault with by the King; if his Majesty dreamt of taking any part
of it for the exigencies of the state, the clergy would undoubtedly
raise a clamour; and if both united, the Pope would think he had a
right to pronounce his veto; but if all these three powers could come
to an understanding, and settle their proportions, I am apt to think a
partition might be made as quietly as that of Poland.
Whatever scruples the Neapolitan clergy may have to such a project, they
certainly have none to the full enjoyment of their revenues. No class
of men can be less disposed to offend Providence by a peevish neglect
of the good things which the bounty of heaven has bestowed. Self-denial
is a virtue, which I will not say they possess in a smaller degree, but
which, I am sure, they affect less than any other ecclesiastics I know;
they live very much in society, both with the nobles and citizens. All
of them, the monks not excepted, attend the theatre, and seem to join
most cordially in other diversions and amusements; the common people are
no ways offended at this, or imagine that they ought to live in a more
recluse manner. Some of the orders have had the address to make a concern
for their temporal interest, and a desire of seeing them live full,
and in something of a jolly manner, be regarded by the common people as
a proof of zeal for religion. I am informed, that a very considerable
diminution in the number of monks has taken place in the kingdom of
Naples since the suppression of the Jesuits, and since a liberty of
quitting the cowl was granted by the late Pope; but still there is no
reason to complain of a deficiency in this order of men. The richest and
most commodious convents in Europe, both for male and female votaries,
are in this city; the most fertile and beautiful hills of the environs
are covered with them; a small part of their revenue is spent in feeding
the poor, the monks distributing bread and soup to a certain number every
day before the doors of the convents. Some of the friars study physic and
surgery, and practise these arts with great applause. Each convent has an
apothecary’s shop belonging to it, where medicines are delivered gratis
to the poor, and sold to those who can afford to pay. On all these
accounts the monks in general are greater favourites with the common
people than even the secular clergy; all the charity of the friars,
however, would not be able to cover their sins, if the stories circulated
by their enemies were true,—by which they are represented as the greatest
profligates and debauchees in the world. Without giving credit to all
that is reported on this subject, as the Neapolitan monks are very
well fed, as this climate is not the most favourable to continency (a
virtue which in this place is by no means estimated in proportion to its
rarity), it is most likely that the inhabitants of the convents, like the
inhabitants in general, indulge in certain pleasures with less scruple or
restraint than is usual in some other places. Be that as it may, it is
certain that they are the most superstitious of mankind; a turn of mind
which they communicate with equal zeal and success to a people remarkably
ignorant, and remarkably amorous. The seeds of superstition thus
zealously sown on such a warm and fertile, though uncultivated, soil,
sometimes produce the most extraordinary crops of sensuality and devotion
that ever were seen in any country.
The lazzaroni, or black-guards, as has been already observed, form
a considerable part of the inhabitants of Naples; and have, on some
well-known occasions, had the government for a short time in their own
hands. They are computed at above thirty thousand; the greater part of
them have no dwelling-houses, but sleep every night under porticos,
piazzas, or any kind of shelter they can find. Those of them who have
wives and children, live in the suburbs of Naples near Pausilippo, in
huts, or in caverns or chambers dug out of that mountain. Some gain
a livelihood by fishing, others by carrying burdens to and from the
shipping; many walk about the streets ready to run on errands, or to
perform any labour in their power for a very small recompence. As they
do not meet with constant employment, their wages are not sufficient for
their maintenance; the soup and bread distributed at the door of the
convents supply the deficiency. The lazzaroni are generally represented
as a lazy, licentious, and turbulent set of people; what I have observed
gives me a very different idea of their character. Their idleness is
evidently the effect of necessity, not of choice; they are always
ready to perform any work, however laborious, for a very reasonable
gratification. It must proceed from the fault of Government, when such a
number of stout active citizens remain unemployed; and so far are they
from being licentious and turbulent, that I cannot help thinking they are
by much too tame and submissive. Though the inhabitants of the Italian
cities were the first who shook off the feudal yoke, and though in
Naples they have long enjoyed the privilege of municipal jurisdiction,
yet the external splendour of the nobles, and the authority they still
exercise over the peasants, impose upon the minds of the lazzaroni; and
however bold and resentful they may be of injuries offered by others,
they bear the insolence of the nobility as passively as peasants fixed to
the soil. A coxcomb of a volanti tricked out in his fantastical dress,
or any of the liveried slaves of the great, make no ceremony of treating
these poor fellows with all the insolence and insensibility natural to
their matters; and for no visible reason, but because he is dressed in
lace, and the others in rags. Instead of calling to them to make way,
when the noise in the streets prevents the common people from hearing
the approach of the carriage, a stroke across the shoulders with the
cane of the running footman, is the usual warning they receive. Nothing
animates this people to insurrection, but some very pressing and very
universal cause; such as a scarcity of bread: every other grievance
they bear as if it were their charter. When we consider thirty thousand
human creatures without beds or habitations, wandering almost naked in
search of food through the streets of a well built city; when we think
of the opportunities they have of being together, of comparing their own
destitute situation with the affluence of others, one cannot help being
astonished at their patience.
Let the prince be distinguished by splendour and magnificence; let the
great and the rich have their luxuries; but, in the name of humanity, let
the poor, who are willing to labour, have food in abundance to satisfy
the cravings of nature, and raiment to defend them from the inclemencies
of the weather!
If their governors, whether from weakness or neglect, do not supply them
with these, they certainly have a right to help themselves.—Every law
of equity and common sense will justify them, in revolting against such
governors, and in satisfying their own wants from the superfluities of
lazy luxury.