Naples.
There is an assembly once a week at the house of the British minister;
no assembly in Naples is more numerous, or more brilliant, than this.
Exclusive of that gentleman’s good qualities, and those accomplishments
which procure esteem in any situation, he would meet with every mark
of regard from the Neapolitan nobles, on account of the high favour
in which he stands with their Sovereign. Sir W——’s house is open to
strangers of every country who come to Naples properly recommended, as
well as to the English; he has a private concert almost every evening.
L——y H—— understands music perfectly, and performs in such a manner, as
to command the admiration even of the Neapolitans. Sir W——, who is the
happiest tempered man in the world, and the easiest amused, performs
also, and succeeds perfectly in amusing himself, which is a more valuable
attainment than the other.
The Neapolitan nobility are excessively fond of splendour and show.
This appears in the brilliancy of their equipages, the number of their
attendants, the richness of their dress, and the grandeur of their titles.
I am assured, that the King of Naples counts a hundred persons with the
title of Prince, and still a greater number with that of Duke, among his
subjects. Six or seven of these have estates, which produce from ten to
twelve or thirteen thousand pounds a year; a considerable number have
fortunes of about half that value; and the annual revenue of many is not
above one or two thousand pounds. With respect to the inferior orders
of nobility, they are much poorer; many Counts and Marquisses have not
above three or four hundred pounds a year of paternal estate, many still
less, and not a few enjoy the title without any estate whatever.
When we consider the magnificence of their entertainments, the splendour
of their equipages, and the number of their servants, we are surprised
that the richest of them can support such expensive establishments.
I dined, soon after our arrival, at the Prince of Franca Villa’s;
there were about forty people at table; it was meagre day; the dinner
consisted entirely of fish and vegetables, and was the most magnificent
entertainment I ever saw, comprehending an infinite variety of dishes,
a vast profusion of fruit, and the wines of every country in Europe. I
dined since at the Prince Iacci’s. I shall mention two circumstances,
from which you may form an idea of the grandeur of an Italian palace,
and the number of domestics which some of the nobility retain. We
passed through twelve or thirteen large rooms before we arrived at the
dining room; there were thirty-six persons at table, none served but the
Prince’s domestics, and each guest had a footman behind his chair; other
domestics belonging to the Prince remained in the adjacent rooms, and in
the hall. We afterwards passed through a considerable number of other
rooms in our way to one from which there is a very commanding view.
No estate in England could support such a number of servants, paid and
fed as English servants are; but here the wages are very moderate indeed,
and the greater number of men servants, belonging to the first families,
give their attendance through the day only, and find beds and provisions
for themselves. It must be remembered, also, that few of the nobles give
entertainments, and those who do not, are said to live very sparingly;
so that the whole of their revenue, whatever that may be, is exhausted on
articles of show.
As there is no Opera at present, the people of fashion generally pass
part of the evening at the Corso, on the sea-shore. This is the great
scene of Neapolitan splendour and parade; and, on grand occasions, the
magnificence displayed here will strike a stranger very much. The finest
carriages are painted, gilt, varnished, and lined, in a richer and more
beautiful manner, than has as yet become fashionable either in England
or France; they are often drawn by six, and sometimes by eight horses.
As the last is the number allotted to his Britannic Majesty when he goes
to parliament, some of our countrymen are offended that any individuals
whatsoever should presume to drive with the same number.
It is the mode here, to have two running footmen, very gaily dressed,
before the carriage, and three or four servants in rich liveries behind;
these attendants are generally the handsomest young men that can be
procured. The ladies or gentlemen within the coaches, glitter in all the
brilliancy of lace, embroidery, and jewels. The Neapolitan carriages,
for gala days, are made on purpose, with very large windows, that the
spectators may enjoy a full view of the parties within. Nothing can be
more showy than the harness of the horses; their heads and manes are
ornamented with the rarest plumage, and their tails set off with riband
and artificial flowers, in such a graceful manner that you are apt to
think they have been adorned by the same hands that dressed the heads of
the ladies, and not by common grooms.
After all, you will perhaps imagine the amusement cannot be very great.
The carriages follow each other in two lines, moving in opposite
directions. The company within smile, and bow, and wave the hand, as they
pass and repass their acquaintance; and doubtless imagine, that they are
the most important figures in the procession. The horses, however, seem
to be quite of a different way of thinking, and to consider themselves
as the chief objects of admiration, looking on the livery servants, the
volantis, the lords, and the ladies, as their natural suit on all such
solemn occasions.