I prefer Taylor's glasses to either.

[Illustration]

[Illustration: A bell-glass nearly filled with honey.]

But supposing you can afford to buy a straw hive with a hole already

worked at the top--and it will not cost above a shilling more--you are to

place the board with a corresponding hole on the top of this, and, till

the middle of June, a small board over, or bung in the hole of the board.

Then take it out as before, and place over it your bell-glass or small

straw hive, and act thenceforth as already described.

If, however, you can invest a little in apiculture, as people do in

agriculture or market-gardening, only on a very much smaller scale,

I strongly recommend wooden hives or boxes. These, well made, are

necessarily expensive. The objections commonly urged by those I have

talked with are, first, that they split and twist, and get out of gear.

This may occur in the best in a slight degree, but it arises generally

from having unseasoned wood and bad workmanship. Green wood is utterly

worthless. Bad workmanship is dearest, when done at the very lowest

rate. The best workmanship and the most seasoned wood, I have invariably

found in the workshop of Mr. Pettitt, Dover. They never cast, and are

beautifully smooth, and all the fittings play easily. Such wood and

workmanship, no doubt, may be had of any sensible and honest carpenter. My

reference to Pettitt is merely the record of my own experience. In every

case the entrance should be cut, not out of the hive, but out of the board

on which it rests.

The second objection is, that wood is not sufficiently equable in

temperature. I answer, if protected by a bee-shed, which I regard as

an essential part of bee-furniture, this objection, so far as summer is

concerned, is at once disposed of. Neither rain nor the direct rays of the

sun can affect it. But in winter, I am persuaded from thorough experience,

that in all hives under sheds additional shelter is required to keep out

the searching north and east winds, and to keep in the vital warmth of the

bees. For this purpose, I regard good brown paper, or a newspaper after

you have read it, as the cleanest, neatest, and really warmest protection.

Vermin gather less about paper than woollen material, and brown paper is

less palatable to insect pests than any other. Let the back and ends of

your bee-boxes inside the bee-shed be covered over in October--the front

being left uncovered, unless by the bee-shed, and you will find every

objection to wooden hives disposed of by facts.

The first illustration I will present is that of one by Pettitt, made

of the best seasoned deal, unpainted, of course; for paint, however

necessary to the shed, must on no account be suffered to pollute the

hives.

[Illustration]

On the top of this hive, of which I give a back view, are four apertures,

each about three inches by two; zinc dividers, D D, being pushed in before

receiving a swarm, shut off all egress, and on being withdrawn in May,

allow the bees to ascend into the bell-glasses E E, of which there are

four, each, of course, covered with its nightcap.

B is a glass window, with a thermometer inside. By the window you can

examine progress, taking care when you leave to shut the lid.

In very dry, hot weather, when the thermometer rises to ninety-five, draw

out the drawer A about two inches, and open the little door C, withdrawing

at the same time also the zinc plate F, pushing in its place a

perforated zinc plate, precisely the same in size as F, but perforated.

A current of air is thus introduced, and in a short time the thermometer

will fall five degrees.

Though I do not like the square shape as much as the octagonal or

hexagonal, yet I regard this as a very valuable hive-box.

Instead of bell-glasses, Pettitt has substituted boxes for supers, about

ten inches in height and seven inches in breadth; the front having glass

instead of deal board, with a shutter ready to be put on.

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