THE RETURN FROM SIWA

Alexander the Great founded Alexandria. He came with Dinocrates, his

architect, and ordered him to build, between the sea and the lake, a

magnificent Greek town. Alexander still conceived of civilization as an

extended Greece, and of himself as a Hellene. He had taken over

Hellenism with the ardour that only a proselyte knows. A Balkan

barbarian by birth, he had pushed himself into the enchanted but

enfeebled circle of little city states. He had flattered Athens and

spared Thebes, and preached a crusade against Persia, which should

repeat upon a vaster scale the victories of Marathon and Salamis. He

would even repeat the Trojan war. At the Dardanelles his archæological

zeal was such that he ran naked round the tomb of Achilles. He cut the

knot of Gordius. He appeased the soul of Priam.

Having annexed Asia Minor, Syria, Palestine, and Egypt from the

Persians, and having given his orders to Dinocrates, he left the city he

was building, and rode with a few friends into the western desert. It

was summer. The waters of Lake Mariout, more copious then than now,

spread fertility for a space. Leaving their zone, he struck south, over

the limestone hills, and lost sight of civilization whether of the

Hellenic or non-Hellenic type. Around him little flat pebbles shimmered

and danced in the heat, gazelles stared, and pieces of sky slopped into

the sand. Over him was the pale blue dome of heaven, darkened, if we are

to believe his historian, by flocks of obsequious birds, who sheltered

the King with their shadows and screamed when he rode the wrong way.

Alexander went on till he saw below him, in the fall of the ground, the

canals and hot springs and olives and palms of the Oasis of Siwa.

Sekhet-Amit the Egyptians called it, and worshipped their god Amen

there, whom the Greeks call Ammon, worshipped him in the form of an

emerald that lay in a sacred boat, worshipped him as a ram also. Instead

of the twin mud-cities of Siwa and Aghurmi, Alexander saw pylons and

colonnades, and descending into the steamy heat of the Oasis approached

a lonely and mysterious shrine. For what was it mysterious? Perhaps

merely for its loneliness. The distance, the solitude of the desert,

touch travellers even to-day, and sharpen the imaginations of men who

have crossed in armoured cars, and whom no god awaits, only a tract of

green. Alexander rode, remembering how, two hundred years before him,

the Persians had ridden to loot the temple, and how on them as they were

eating in the desert a sandstorm had descended, burying diners and

dinner in company. Herein lay the magic of Siwa. It was difficult to

reach. He, being the greatest man of his epoch, had of course succeeded.

He, the Philhellene, had come. His age was twenty-five. Then took place

that celebrated and extraordinary episode. According to the official

account the Priest came out of the temple and saluted the young tourist

as Son of God. Alexander acquiesced and asked whether he would become

King of this World. The reply was in the affirmative. Then his friends

asked whether they should worship him. They were told that they should,

and the episode closed. Some say that it is to be explained by the

Priest’s bad Greek. He meant to say Paidion (“my child”) and said

Paidios (“O Son of God”) instead. Others say that it never took place,

and Walter Savage Landor has imagined a conversation in the course of

which the Priest scares the King by a snake. A scare he did get—a

fright, a psychic experience, a vision, a “turn.” His development proves

it. After his return from Siwa his aspirations alter. Never again does

he regard Greece as the centre of the world.

The building of Alexandria proceeded, and copied or magnified forms from

the perishing peninsula overseas. Dinocrates planned Greek temples and

market-places, and they were constructed not slavishly but with

intelligence, for the Greek spirit still lived. But it lived

consciously, not unconsciously as in the past. It had a mission, and no

missionary shall ever create. And Alexander, the heroic chaos of whose

heart surged with desire for all that can and can not be, turned away

from his Hellenic town-planning and his narrow little antiquarian

crusade, and flung himself again, but in a new spirit, against the might

of Persia. He fought her as a lover now. He wanted not to convert but to

harmonize, and conceived himself as the divine and impartial ruler

beneath whom harmony shall proceed. That way lies madness. Persia fell.

Then it was the turn of India. Then the turn of Rome would have come and

then he could have sailed westward (such was his expressed intention)

until he had conquered the Night and eastward until he had conquered the

Day. He was never—despite the tuition of Aristotle—a balanced young man,

and his old friends complained that in this latter period he sometimes

killed them. But to us, who cannot have the perilous honour of his

acquaintance, he grows more lovable now than before. He has caught, by

the unintellectual way, a glimpse of something great, if dangerous, and

that glimpse came to him first in the recesses of the Siwan Oasis. When

at the age of thirty-three he died, when the expedition that he did not

seek stole towards him in the summer-house at Babylon, did it seem to

him as after all but the crown of his smaller quests? He had tried to

lead Greece, then he had tried to lead mankind. He had succeeded in

both. But was the universe also friendly, was it also in trouble, was it

calling on him, on him, for his help and his love? The priest of Amen

had addressed him as “Son of God.” What exactly did the compliment mean?

Was it explicable this side of the grave?

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Pharos and Pharillon · 第 14 / 42 题