II

A lighthouse was a necessity. The coast of Egypt is, in its western

section, both flat and rocky, and ships needed a landmark to show them

where Alexandria lay, and a guide through the reefs that block her

harbours. Pharos was the obvious site, because it stood in front of the

city; and on Pharos the eastern promontory, because it commanded the

more important of the two harbours—the Royal. But it is not clear

whether a divine madness also seized the builders, whether they

deliberately winged engineering with poetry, and tried to add a wonder

to the world. At all events they succeeded, and the arts combined with

science to praise their triumph. Just as the Parthenon had been

identified with Athens, and St. Peter’s was to be identified with Rome,

so, to the imagination of contemporaries, “The Pharos” became Alexandria

and Alexandria the Pharos. Never, in the history of architecture, has a

secular building been thus worshipped and taken on a spiritual life of

its own. It beaconed to the imagination, not only to ships, and long

after its light was extinguished memories of it glowed in the minds of

men. Perhaps it was merely very large; reconstructions strike a chill,

and the minaret, its modern descendant, is not supremely beautiful.

Something very large to which people got used—a Liberty Statue, an

Eiffel Tower? The possibility must be faced, and is not excluded by the

ecstasies of the poets.

The lighthouse was made of local limestone, of marble, and of

reddish-purple granite from Assouan. It stood in a colonnaded court that

covered most of the promontory. There were four stories. The bottom

story was over two hundred feet high, square, pierced with many windows.

In it were the rooms (estimated at three hundred) where the mechanics

and keepers were housed, and its mass was threaded by a spiral ascent,

probably by a double spiral. There may have been hydraulic machinery in

the central well for raising the fuel to the top; otherwise we must

imagine a procession of donkeys who cease not night and day to

circumambulate the spirals with loads of wood upon their backs. The

story ended in a cornice and in statues of Tritons: here too, in great

letters of lead, was a Greek inscription mentioning the architect:

“Sostratus of Cnidus, son of Dexiphanes, to the Saviour Gods: for

sailors”—an inscription which, despite its simplicity, bore a double

meaning. The Saviour Gods were the Dioscuri, but a courtly observer

could refer them to Ptolemy Soter and his wife, whose worship their son

was then promoting. For the building of the lighthouse (279 B.C.) was

connected with an elaborate dynastic propaganda known as the

“As-good-as-Olympic Games,” and with a mammoth pageant which passed

through the streets of Alexandria, regardless of imagination and

expense. Nothing could be seen in the pageant, neither elephants nor

camels nor dances of wild men, nor allegorical females upon a car, nor

eggs that opened and disclosed the Dioscuri; and the inscription on the

first story of the Pharos was a subtle echo of its appeal.

The second story was octagonal and entirely filled by the ascending

spirals. The third story was circular. Then came the lantern. The

lantern is a puzzle, because a bonfire and delicate scientific

instruments appear to have shared its narrow area. Visitors speak, for

instance, of a mysterious “mirror” up there, which was even more

wonderful than the building itself. Why didn’t this mirror crack, and

what was it? A polished steel reflector for the fire at night or for

heliography by day? Some writers describe it as made of finely wrought

glass or transparent stone, and declare that when they sat under it they

could see ships at sea that were invisible to the naked eye. A

telescope? Is it conceivable that the Alexandrian school of mathematics

and mechanics discovered the lens and that their discovery was lost and

forgotten when the Pharos fell? It is possible: the discoveries of

Aristarchus were forgotten, and Galileo persecuted for reviving them. It

is certain that the lighthouse was equipped with every scientific

improvement known to the age, that it was the outward expression of the

studies pursued in the Museum across the straits, and that its architect

could have consulted not only Aristarchus, but Eratosthenes, Apollonius

of Perga, and Euclid.

Standing on the lantern, at the height of five hundred feet above the

ground, a statue of Poseidon struck the pious note, and gave a Greek air

to Africa seen from the sea. Other works of art are also reported: for

example, a statue whose finger followed the diurnal course of the sun, a

second statue who gave out with varying and melodious voices the various

hours of the day, and a third who shouted an alarm as soon as a hostile

flotilla set sail from any foreign port. This last must belong to an

even more remarkable building, the Pharos of legend, which we will

measure in a moment. The lighthouse was the key of the Alexandrian

defences, and Cæsar occupied it before attacking the city. It was also

the pivot of a signalling system that stretched along the coast. Fifteen

miles to the west, on a ridge among masses of marigolds, the little

watch-tower of Abousir is still standing, and it reproduces, in its

three stories, the arrangements of Sostratus.

Pharos and Pharillon · 第 12 / 42 题