The Orinoco, the Rio Negro, and almost all the confluents of the

Amazon and the Maranon, have falls or rapids, either because they

cross the mountains where they take rise, or because they meet other

mountains in their course. If the Amazon, from the pongo of Manseriche

(or, to speak with more precision, from the pongo of Tayuchuc) as far

as its mouth, a space of more than seven hundred and fifty leagues,

exhibit no tumultuous movement of the waters, the river owes this

advantage to the uniform direction of its course. It flows from west

to east in a vast plain, forming a longitudinal valley between the

mountains of Parima and the great mass of the mountains of Brazil.

I was surprised to find by actual measurement that the rapids of the

Orinoco, the roar of which is heard at the distance of more than a

league, and which are so eminently picturesque from the varied

appearance of the waters, the palm-trees and the rocks, have not

probably, on their whole length, a height of more than twenty-eight

feet perpendicular. In reflecting on this, we find that it is a great

deal for rapids, while it would be very little for a single cataract.

The Yellalas of the Rio Congo, in the contracted part of the river

from Banza Noki as far as Banza Inga, furnish, between the upper and

lower levels, a much more considerable difference; but Mr. Barrow

observes, that among the great number of these rapids there is one

fall, which alone is thirty feet high. On the other hand, the famous

pongos of the river Amazon, so dangerous to go up, the falls of

Rentema, of Escurrebragas, and of Mayasi, are but a few feet in

perpendicular height. Those who are engaged in hydraulic works know

the effect that a bar of eighteen or twenty inches' height produces in

a great river. The whirling and tumultuous movement of the water does

not depend solely on the greatness of partial falls; what determines

the force and impetuosity is the nearness of these falls, the

steepness of the rocky ledges, the returning sheets of water which

strike against and surmount each other, the form of the islands and

shoals, the direction of the counter-currents, and the contraction and

sinuosity of the channels through which the waters force a passage

between two adjacent levels. In two rivers equally large, that of

which the falls have least height may sometimes present the greatest

dangers and the most impetuous movements.

It is probable that the river Orinoco loses part of its waters in the

cataracts, not only by increased evaporation, caused by the dispersion

of minute drops in the atmosphere, but still more by filtrations into

the subterraneous cavities. These losses, however, are not very

perceptible when we compare the mass of waters entering into the

raudal with that which issues out near the mouth of the Rio Anaveni.

It was by a similar comparison that the existence of subterraneous

cavities in the yellalas or rapids of the river Congo was discovered.

The pongo of Manseriche, which ought rather to be called a strait than

a fall, ingulfs, in a manner not yet sufficiently explored, a part of

the waters and all the floating wood of the Upper Maranon.

The spectator, seated on the bank of the Orinoco, with his eyes fixed

on those rocky dikes, is naturally led to inquire whether, in the

lapse of ages, the falls change their form or height. I am not much

inclined to believe in such effects of the shock of water against

blocks of granite, and in the erosion of siliceous matter. The holes

narrowed toward the bottom, the funnels that are discovered in the

raudales, as well as near so many other cascades in Europe, are owing

only to the friction of the sand, and the movement of quartz pebbles.

We saw many such, whirled perpetually by the current at the bottom of

the funnels, and contributing to enlarge them in every direction. The

pongos of the river Amazon are easily destroyed, because the rocky

dikes are not granite, but a conglomerate, or red sandstone with large

fragments. A part of the pongo of Rentama was broken down eighty years

ago, and the course of the waters being interrupted by a new bar, the

bed of the river remained dry for some hours, to the great

astonishment of the inhabitants of the village of Payaya, seven

leagues below the pongo. The Indians of Atures assert (and in this

their testimony is contrary to the opinion of Caulin) that the rocks

of the raudal preserve the same aspect; but that the partial torrents

into which the great river divides itself as it passes through the

heaped blocks of granite, change their direction, and carry sometimes

more, sometimes less water towards one or the other bank; but the

causes of these changes may be very remote from the cataracts, for in

the rivers that spread life over the surface of the globe, as in the

arteries by which it is diffused through organized bodies, all the

movements are propagated to great distances. Oscillations, that at

first seem partial, react on the whole liquid mass contained in the

trunk as well as in its numerous ramifications.

Some of the Missionaries in their writings have alleged that the

inhabitants of Atures and Maypures have been struck with deafness by

the noise of the Great Cataracts, but this is untrue. When the noise

is heard in the plain that surrounds the mission, at the distance of

more than a league, you seem to be near a coast skirted by reefs and

breakers. The noise is three times as loud by night as by day, and

gives an inexpressible charm to these solitary scenes. What can be the

cause of this increased intensity of sound, in a desert where nothing

seems to interrupt the silence of nature? The velocity of the

propagation of sound, far from augmenting, decreases with the lowering

of the temperature. The intensity diminishes in air agitated by a wind

which is contrary to the direction of the sound; it diminishes also by

dilatation of the air, and is weaker in the higher than in the lower

regions of the atmosphere, where the number of particles of air in

motion is greater in the same radius. The intensity is the same in dry

air, and in air mingled with vapours; but it is feebler in carbonic

acid gas than in mixtures of azote and oxygen. From these facts, which

are all we know with any certainty, it is difficult to explain a

phenomenon observed near every cascade in Europe, and which, long

before our arrival in the village of Atures, had struck the missionary

and the Indians.

It may be thought that, even in places not inhabited by man, the hum

of insects, the song of birds, the rustling of leaves agitated by the

feeblest winds, occasion during the day a confused noise, which we

perceive the less because it is uniform, and constantly strikes the

ear. Now this noise, however slightly perceptible it may be, may

diminish the intensity of a louder noise; and this diminution may

cease if during the calm of the night the song of birds, the hum of

insects, and the action of the wind upon the leaves be interrupted.

But this reasoning, even admitting its justness, can scarcely be

applied to the forests of the Orinoco, where the air is constantly

filled by an innumerable quantity of mosquitos, where the hum of

insects is much louder by night than by day, and where the breeze, if

ever it be felt, blows only after sunset.

I rather think that the presence of the sun acts upon the propagation

and intensity of sound by the obstacles met in currents of air of

different density, and by the partial undulations of the atmosphere

arising from the unequal heating of different parts of the soil. In

calm air, whether dry or mingled with vesicular vapours equally

distributed, sound-waves are propagated without difficulty. But when

the air is crossed in every direction by small currents of hotter air,

the sonorous undulation is divided into two undulations where the

density of the medium changes abruptly; partial echoes are formed that

weaken the sound, because one of the streams comes back upon itself;

and those divisions of undulations take place of which M. Poisson has

developed the theory with great sagacity.* (* Annales de Chimie tome 7

page 293.) It is not therefore the movement of the particles of air

from below to above in the ascending current, or the small oblique

currents that we consider as opposing by a shock the propagation of

the sonorous undulations. A shock given to the surface of a liquid

will form circles around the centre of percussion, even when the

liquid is agitated. Several kinds of undulations may cross each other

in water, as in air, without being disturbed in their propagation:

little movements may, as it were, ride over each other, and the real

cause of the less intensity of sound during the day appears to be the

interpretation of homogeneity in the elastic medium. During the day

there is a sudden interruption of density wherever small streamlets of

air of a high temperature rise over parts of the soil unequally

heated. The sonorous undulations are divided, as the rays of light are

refracted and form the mirage wherever strata of air of unequal

density are contiguous. The propagation of sound is altered when a

stratum of hydrogen gas is made to rise in a tube closed at one end

above a stratum of atmospheric air; and M. Biot has well explained, by

the interposition of bubbles of carbonic acid gas, why a glass filled

with champagne is not sonorous so long as that gas is evolved, and

passing through the strata of the liquid.

In support of these ideas, I might almost rest on the authority of an

ancient philosopher, whom the moderns do not esteem in proportion to

his merits, though the most distinguished zoologists have long

rendered ample justice to the sagacity of his observations. "Why,"

says Aristotle in his curious book of Problems, "why is sound better

heard during the night? Because there is more calmness on account of

the absence of caloric (of the hottest).* (* I have placed in a

parenthesis, a literal version of the term employed by Aristotle, to

express in reality what we now term the matter of heat. Theodore of

Gaza, in his Latin translation, expresses in the shape of a doubt what

Aristotle positively asserts. I may here remark, that, notwithstanding

the imperfect state of science among the ancients, the works of the

Stagirite contain more ingenious observations than those of many later

philosophers. It is in vain we look in Aristoxenes (De Musica), in

Theophylactus Simocatta (De Quaestionibus physicis), or in the 5th

Book of the Quest. Nat. of Seneca, for an explanation of the nocturnal

augmentation of sound.) This absence renders every thing calmer, for

the sun is the principle of all movement." Aristotle had no doubt a

vague presentiment of the cause of the phenomenon; but he attributes

to the motion of the atmosphere, and the shock of the particles of

air, that which seems to be rather owing to abrupt changes of density

in the contiguous strata of air.

On the 16th of April, towards evening, we received tidings that in

less than six hours our boat had passed the rapids, and had arrived in

good condition in a cove called el Puerto de arriba, or the Port of

the Expedition. We were shown in the little church of Atures some

remains of the ancient wealth of the Jesuits. A silver lamp of

considerable weight lay on the ground half-buried in the sand. Such an

object, it is true, would nowhere tempt the cupidity of a savage; yet

I may here remark, to the honor of the natives of the Orinoco, that

they are not addicted to stealing, like the less savage tribes of the

islands in the Pacific. The former have a great respect for property;

they do not even attempt to steal provision, hooks, or hatchets. At

Maypures and Atures, locks on doors are unknown: they will be

introduced only when whites and men of mixed race establish themselves

in the missions.

The Indians of Atures are mild and moderate, and accustomed, from the

effects of their idleness, to the greatest privations. Formerly, being

excited to labour by the Jesuits, they did not want for food. The

fathers cultivated maize, French beans (frijoles), and other European

vegetables; they even planted sweet oranges and tamarinds round the

villages; and they possessed twenty or thirty thousand head of cows

and horses, in the savannahs of Atures and Carichana. They had at

their service a great number of slaves and servants (peones), to tend

their herds. Nothing is now cultivated but a little cassava, and a few

plantains. Such however is the fertility of the soil, that at Atures I

counted on a single branch of a musa one hundred and eight fruits,

four or five of which would almost have sufficed for a man's daily

food. The culture of maize is entirely neglected, and the horses and

cows have entirely disappeared. Near the raudal, a part of the village

still bears the name of Passo del ganado (ford of the cattle), while

the descendants of those very Indians whom the Jesuits had assembled

in a mission, speak of horned cattle as of animals of a race now lost.

In going up the Orinoco, toward San Carlos del Rio Negro, we saw the

last cow at Carichana. The Fathers of the Observance, who now govern

these vast countries, did not immediately succeed the Jesuits. During

an interregnum of eighteen years, the missions were visited only from

time to time, and by Capuchin monks. The agents of the secular

government, under the title of Royal Commissioners, managed the hatos

or farms of the Jesuits with culpable negligence. They killed the

cattle for the sake of selling the hides. Many heifers were devoured

by the jaguars, and a great number perished in consequence of wounds

made by the bats of the raudales, which, though smaller, are far

bolder than the bats of the Llanos. At the time of the expedition of

the boundaries, horses from Encaramada, Carichana, and Atures, were

conveyed as far as San Jose de Maravitanos, where, on the banks of the

Rio Negro, the Portuguese could only procure them, after a long

passage, and of a very inferior quality, by the rivers Amazon and

Grand Para. Since the year 1795, the cattle of the Jesuits have

entirely disappeared. There now remain as monuments of the ancient

cultivation of these countries, and the active industry of the first

missionaries, only a few trunks of the orange and tamarind, in the

savannahs, surrounded by wild trees.

The tigers, or jaguars, which are less dangerous for the cattle than

the bats, come into the village at Atures, and devour the swine of the

poor Indians. The missionary related to us a striking instance of the

familiarity of these animals, usually so ferocious. Some months before

our arrival, a jaguar, which was thought to be young, though of a

large size, had wounded a child in playing with him. The facts of this

case, which were verified to us on the spot, are not without interest

in the history of the manners of animals. Two Indian children, a boy

and a girl, about eight and nine years of age, were seated on the

grass near the village of Atures, in the middle of a savannah, which

we several times traversed. At two o'clock in the afternoon, a jaguar

issued from the forest, and approached the children, bounding around

them; sometimes he hid himself in the high grass, sometimes he sprang

forward, his back bent, his head hung down, in the manner of our cats.

The little boy, ignorant of his danger, seemed to be sensible of it

only when the jaguar with one of his paws gave him some blows on the

head. These blows, at first slight, became ruder and ruder; the claws

of the jaguar wounded the child, and the blood flowed freely. The

little girl then took a branch of a tree, struck the animal, and it

fled from her. The Indians ran up at the cries of the children, and

saw the jaguar, which then bounded off without making the least show

of resistance.

The little boy was brought to us, who appeared lively and intelligent.

The claw of the jaguar had torn away the skin from the lower part of

the forehead, and there was a second scar at the top of the head. This

was a singular fit of playfulness in an animal which, though not

difficult to be tamed in our menageries, nevertheless shows itself

always wild and ferocious in its natural state. If we admit that,

being sure of its prey, it played with the little Indian as our cats

play with birds whose wings have been clipped, how shall we explain

the patience of a jaguar of large size, which finds itself attacked by

a girl? If the jaguar were not pressed by hunger, why did it approach

the children at all? There is something mysterious in the affections

and hatreds of animals. We have known lions kill three or four dogs

that were put into their den, and instantly caress a fifth, which,

less timid, took the king of animals by the mane. These are instincts

of which we know not the secret.

We have mentioned that domestic pigs are attacked by the jaguars.

There are in these countries, besides the common swine of European

race, several species of peccaries, or pigs with lumbar glands, two of

which only are known to the naturalists of Europe. The Indians call

the little peccary (Dicotiles torquatus, Cuv.), in the Maypure tongue,

chacharo; while they give the name of apida to a species of pig which

they say has no pouch, is larger, and of a dark brown colour, with the

belly and lower jaw white. The chacharo, reared in the houses, becomes

tame like our sheep and goats. It reminds us, by the gentleness of its

manners, of the curious analogies which anatomists have observed

between the peccaries and the ruminating animals. The apida, which is

domesticated like our swine in Europe, wanders in large herds composed

of several hundreds. The presence of these herds is announced from

afar, not only by their hoarse gruntings, but above all by the

impetuosity with which they break down the shrubs in their way. M.

Bonpland, in an herborizing excursion, warned by his Indian guide to

hide himself behind the trunk of a tree, saw a number of these

peccaries (cochinos or puercos del monte) pass close by him. The herd

marched in a close body, the males proceeding first; and each sow was

accompanied by her young. The flesh of the chacharo is flabby, and not

very agreeable; it affords, however, a plentiful nourishment to the

natives, who kill these animals with small lances tied to cords. We

were assured at Atures, that the tiger dreads being surrounded in the

forests by these herds of wild pigs; and that, to avoid being stifled,

he tries to save himself by climbing up a tree. Is this a hunter's

tale, or a fact that has really been observed? In several parts of

America the hunters believe in the existence of a javali, or native

boar with tusks curved outwardly. I never saw one, but this animal is

mentioned in the works of the Spanish missionaries, a source too much

neglected by zoologists; for amidst much incorrectness and

extravagance, they contain many curious local observations.

Among the monkeys which we saw at the mission of the Atures, we found

one new species, of the tribe of sais and sajous, which the Creoles

vulgarly call machis. It is the Guvapavi with grey hair and a bluish

face. It has the orbits of the eyes and the forehead as white as snow,

a peculiarity which at first sight distinguishes it from the Simia

capucina, the Simia apella, the Simia trepida, and the other weeping

monkeys hitherto so confusedly described. This little animal is as

gentle as it is ugly. A monkey of this species, which was kept in the

courtyard of the missionary, would frequently mount on the back of a

pig, and in this manner traverse the savannahs. We have also seen it

upon the back of a large cat, which had been brought up with it in

Father Zea's house.

It was among the cataracts that we began to hear of the hairy man of

the woods, called salvaje, that carries off women, constructs huts,

and sometimes eats human flesh. The Tamanacs call it achi, and the

Maypures vasitri, or great devil. The natives and the missionaries

have no doubt of the existence of this man-shaped monkey, of which

they entertain a singular dread. Father Gili gravely relates the

history of a lady in the town of San Carlos, in the Llanos of

Venezuela, who much praised the gentle character and attentions of the

man of the woods. She is stated to have lived several years with one

in great domestic harmony, and only requested some hunters to take her

back, because she and her children (a little hairy also) were weary of

living far from the church and the sacraments. The same author,

notwithstanding his credulity, acknowledges that he never knew an

Indian who asserted positively that he had seen the salvaje with his

own eyes. This wild legend, which the missionaries, the European

planters, and the negroes of Africa, have no doubt embellished with

many features taken from the description of the manners of the

orang-otang,* the gibbon, the jocko or chimpanzee, and the pongo,

followed us, during five years, from the northern to the southern

hemisphere. (* Simia satyrus. We must not believe, notwithstanding the

assertions of almost all zoological writers, that the word orang-otang

is applied exclusively in the Malay language to the Simia satyrus of

Borneo. This expression, on the contrary, means any very large monkey,

that resembles man in figure. Marsden's History of Sumatra 3rd edition

page 117. Modern zoologists have arbitrarily appropriated provincial

names to certain species; and by continuing to prefer these names,

strangely disfigured in their orthography, to the Latin systematic

names, the confusion of the nomenclature has been increased.) We were

everywhere blamed, in the most cultivated class of society, for being

the only persons to doubt the existence of the great anthropomorphous

monkey of America. There are certain regions where this belief is

particularly prevalent among the people; such are the banks of the

Upper Orinoco, the valley of Upar near the lake of Maracaybo, the

mountains of Santa Martha and of Merida, the provinces of Quixos, and

the banks of the Amazon near Tomependa. In all these places, so

distant one from the other, it is asserted that the salvaje is easily

recognized by the traces of its feet, the toes of which are turned

backward. But if there exist a monkey of a large size in the New

Continent, how has it happened that for three centuries no man worthy

of belief has been able to procure the skin of one? Several hypotheses

present themselves to the mind, in order to explain the source of so

ancient an error or belief. Has the famous capuchin monkey of

Esmeralda (Simia chiropotes), with its long canine teeth, and

physiognomy much more like man's* (* The whole of the features--the

expression of the physiognomy; but not the forehead.) than that of the

orang-otang, given rise to the fable of the salvaje? It is not so

large indeed as the coaita (Simia paniscus); but when seen at the top

of a tree, and the head only visible, it might easily be taken for a

human being. It may be also (and this opinion appears to me the most

probable) that the man of the woods was one of those large bears, the

footsteps of which resemble those of a man, and which are believed in

every country to attack women. The animal killed in my time at the

foot of the mountains of Merida, and sent, by the name of salvaje, to

Colonel Ungaro, the governor of the province of Varinas, was in fact a

bear with black and smooth fur. Our fellow-traveller, Don Nicolas

Soto, had examined it closely. Did the strange idea of a plantigrade

animal, the toes of which are placed as if it walked backward, take

its origin from the habit of the real savages of the woods, the

Indians of the weakest and most timid tribes, of deceiving their

enemies, when they enter a forest, or cross a sandy shore, by covering

the traces of their feet with sand, or walking backward?

Though I have expressed my doubts of the existence of an unknown

species of large monkey in a continent which appears entirely

destitute of quadrumanous animals of the family of the orangs,

cynocephali, mandrils, and pongos; yet it should be remembered that

almost all matters of popular belief, even those most absurd in

appearance, rest on real facts, but facts ill observed. In treating

them with disdain, the traces of a discovery may often be lost, in

natural philosophy as well as in zoology. We will not then admit, with

a Spanish author, that the fable of the man of the woods was invented

by the artifice of Indian women, who pretended to have been carried

off, when they had been long absent unknown to their husbands.

Travellers who may hereafter visit the missions of the Orinoco will do

well to follow up our researches on the salvaje or great devil of the

woods; and examine whether it be some unknown species of bear, or some

very rare monkey analogous to the Simia chiropotes, or Simia satanas,

which may have given rise to such singular tales.

After having spent two days near the cataract of Atures, we were not

sorry when our boat was reladen, and we were enabled to leave a spot

where the temperature of the air is generally by day twenty-nine

degrees, and by night twenty-six degrees, of the centigrade

thermometer. This temperature seemed to us to be still much more

elevated, from the feeling of heat which we experienced. The want of

concordance between the instruments and the sensations must be

attributed to the continual irritation of the skin excited by the

mosquitos. An atmosphere filled with venomous insects always appears

to be more heated than it is in reality. We were horribly tormented in

the day by mosquitos and the jejen, a small venomous fly (simulium),

and at night by the zancudos, a large species of gnat, dreaded even by

the natives. Our hands began to swell considerably, and this swelling

increased daily till our arrival on the banks of the Temi. The means

that are employed to escape from these little plagues are very

extraordinary. The good missionary Bernardo Zea, who passed his life

tormented by mosquitos, had constructed near the church, on a

scaffolding of trunks of palm-trees, a small apartment, in which we

breathed more freely. To this we went up in the evening, by means of a

ladder, to dry our plants and write our journal. The missionary had

justly observed, that the insects abounded more particularly in the

lowest strata of the atmosphere, that which reaches from the ground to

the height of twelve or fifteen feet. At Maypures the Indians quit the

village at night, to go and sleep on the little islets in the midst of

the cataracts. There they enjoy some rest; the mosquitoes appearing to

shun air loaded with vapours. We found everywhere fewer in the middle

of the river than near its banks; and thus less is suffered in

descending the Orinoco than in going up in a boat.

Persons who have not navigated the great rivers of equinoctial

America, for instance, the Orinoco and the Magdalena, can scarcely

conceive how, at every instant, without intermission, you may be

tormented by insects flying in the air; and how the multitude of these

little animals may render vast regions almost uninhabitable. Whatever

fortitude be exercised to endure pain without complaint, whatever

interest may be felt in the objects of scientific research, it is

impossible not to be constantly disturbed by the mosquitos, zancudos,

jejens, and tempraneros, that cover the face and hands, pierce the

clothes with their long needle-formed suckers, and getting into the

mouth and nostrils, occasion coughing and sneezing whenever any

attempt is made to speak in the open air. In the missions of the

Orinoco, in the villages on the banks of the river, surrounded by

immense forests, the plaga de las moscas, or the plague of the

mosquitos, affords an inexhaustible subject of conversation. When two

persons meet in the morning, the first questions they address to each

other are: How did you find the zancudos during the night? How are we

to-day for the mosquitos?* (* Que le han parecido los zancudos de

noche? Como stamos hoy de mosquitos?) These questions remind us of a

Chinese form of politeness, which indicates the ancient state of the

country where it took birth. Salutations were made heretofore in the

Celestial empire in the following words, vou-to-hou, Have you been

incommoded in the night by the serpents?

The geographical distribution of the insects of the family of tipulae

presents very remarkable phenomena. It does not appear to depend

solely on heat of climate, excess of humidity, or the thickness of

forests, but on local circumstances that are difficult to

characterise. It may be observed that the plague of mosquitos and

zancudos is not so general in the torrid zone as is commonly believed.

On the table-lands elevated more than four hundred toises above the

level of the ocean, in the very dry plains remote from the beds of

great rivers (for instance, at Cumana and Calabozo), there are not

sensibly more gnats than in the most populous parts of Europe. They

are perceived to augment enormously at Nueva Barcelona, and more to

the west, on the coast that extends towards Cape Codera. Between the

little harbour of Higuerote and the mouth of the Rio Unare, the

wretched inhabitants are accustomed to stretch themselves on the

ground, and pass the night buried in the sand three or four inches

deep, leaving out the head only, which they cover with a handkerchief.

You suffer from the sting of insects, but in a manner easy to bear, in

descending the Orinoco from Cabruta towards Angostura, and in going up

from Cabruta towards Uruana, between the latitudes of 7 and 8 degrees.

But beyond the mouth of the Rio Arauca, after having passed the strait

of Baraguan, the scene suddenly changes. From this spot the traveller

may bid farewell to repose. If he have any poetical remembrance of

Dante, he may easily imagine he has entered the citta dolente, and he

will seem to read on the granite rocks of Baraguan these lines of the

Inferno:

Noi sem venuti al luogo, ov' i' t'ho detto

Che tu vedrai le genti dolorose.

The lower strata of air, from the surface of the ground to the height

of fifteen or twenty feet, are absolutely filled with venomous

insects. If in an obscure spot, for instance in the grottos of the

cataracts formed by superincumbent blocks of granite, you direct your

eyes toward the opening enlightened by the sun, you see clouds of

mosquitos more or less thick. At the mission of San Borja, the

suffering from mosquitos is greater than at Carichana; but in the

Raudales, at Atures, and above all at Maypures, this suffering may be

said to attain its maximum. I doubt whether there be a country upon

earth where man is exposed to more cruel torments in the rainy season.

Having passed the fifth degree of latitude, you are somewhat less

stung; but on the Upper Orinoco the stings are more painful, because

the heat and the absolute want of wind render the air more burning and

more irritating in its contact with the skin.

"How comfortable must people be in the moon!" said a Salive Indian to

Father Gumilla; "she looks so beautiful and so clear, that she must be

free from mosquitos." These words, which denote the infancy of a

people, are very remarkable. The satellite of the earth appears to all

savage nations the abode of the blessed, the country of abundance. The

Esquimaux, who counts among his riches a plank or trunk of a tree,

thrown by the currents on a coast destitute of vegetation, sees in the

moon plains covered with forests; the Indian of the forests of Orinoco

there beholds open savannahs, where the inhabitants are never stung by

mosquitos.

After proceeding further to the south, where the system of

yellowish-brown waters commences,* (* Generally called black waters,

aguas negras.) on the banks of the Atabapo, the Tuni, the Tuamini, and

the Rio Negro, we enjoyed an unexpected repose. These rivers, like the

Orinoco, cross thick forests, but the tipulary insects, as well as the

crocodiles, shun the proximity of the black waters. Possibly these

waters, which are a little colder, and chemically different from the

white waters, are adverse to the larvae of tipulary insects and gnats,

which may be considered as real aquatic animals. Some small rivers,

the colour of which is deep blue, or yellowish-brown (as the Toparo,

the Mataveni, and the Zama), are exceptions to the almost general rule

of the absence of mosquitos over the black waters. These three rivers

swarm with them; and the Indians themselves fixed our attention on the

problematic causes of this phenomenon. In going down the Rio Negro, we

breathed freely at Maroa, Daripe, and San Carlos, villages situated on

the boundaries of Brazil. But this improvement of our situation was of

short continuance; our sufferings recommenced as soon as we entered

the Cassiquiare. At Esmeralda, at the eastern extremity of the Upper

Orinoco, where ends the known world of the Spaniards, the clouds of

mosquitos are almost as thick as at the Great Cataracts. At Mandavaca

we found an old missionary, who told us with an air of sadness, that

he had had his twenty years of mosquitos in America*. (* "Yo tengo mis

veinte anos de mosquitos.") He desired us to look at his legs, that we

might be able to tell one day, beyond sea (por alla), what the poor

monks suffer in the forests of Cassiquiare. Every sting leaving a

small darkish brown point, his legs were so speckled that it was

difficult to recognize the whiteness of his skin through the spots of

coagulated blood. If the insects of the genus Simulium abound in the

Cassiquiare, which has white waters, the culices or zancudos are so

much the more rare; you scarcely find any there; while on the rivers

of black waters, in the Atabapo and the Rio, there are generally some

zancudos and no mosquitos.

I have just shown, from my own observations, how much the geographical

distribution of venomous insects varies in this labyrinth of rivers

with white and black waters. It were to be wished that a learned

entomologist could study on the spot the specific differences of these

noxious insects,* which in the torrid zone, in spite of their minute

size, act an important point in the economy of nature. (* The mosquito

bovo or tenbiguai; the melero, which always settles upon the eyes; the

tempranero, or putchiki; the jejen; the gnat rivau, the great zancudo,

or matchaki; the cafafi, etc.) What appeared to us very remarkable,

and is a fact known to all the missionaries, is, that the different

species do not associate together, and that at different hours of the

day you are stung by distinct species. Every time that the scene

changes, and, to use the simple expression of the missionaries, other

insects mount guard, you have a few minutes, often a quarter of an

hour, of repose. The insects that disappear have not their places

instantly supplied by their successors. From half-past-six in the

morning till five in the afternoon, the air is filled with mosquitos;

which have not, as some travellers have stated, the form of our

gnats,* (* Culex pipiens. This difference between mosquito (little

fly, simulium) and zancudo (gnat, culex) exists in all the Spanish

colonies. The word zancudo signifies long legs, qui tiene las zancas

largas. The mosquitos of the Orinoco are the moustiques; the zancudos

are the maringouins of French travellers.) but that of a small fly.

They are simuliums of the family Nemocera of the system of Latreille.

Their sting is as painful as that of the genus Stomox. It leaves a

little reddish brown spot, which is extravased and coagulated blood,

where their proboscis has pierced the skin. An hour before sunset a

species of small gnats, called tempraneros,* because they appear also

at sunrise, take the place of the mosquitos. (* Which appear at an

early hour (temprano). Some persons say, that the zancudo is the same

as the tempranero, which returns at night, after hiding itself for

some time. I have doubts of this identity of the species; the pain

caused by the sting of the two insects appeared to me different.)

Their presence scarcely lasts an hour and a half; they disappear

between six and seven in the evening, or, as they say here, after the

Angelus (a la oracion). After a few minutes' repose, you feel yourself

stung by zancudos, another species of gnat with very long legs. The

zancudo, the proboscis of which contains a sharp-pointed sucker,

causes the most acute pain, and a swelling that remains several weeks.

Its hum resembles that of the European gnat, but is louder and more

prolonged. The Indians pretend to distinguish the zancudos and the

tempraneros by their song; the latter are real twilight insects, while

the zancudos are most frequently nocturnal insects, and disappear

toward sunrise.

In our way from Carthagena to Santa Fe de Bogota, we observed that

between Mompox and Honda, in the valley of the Rio Magdalena, the

zancudos darkened the air from eight in the evening till midnight;

that towards midnight they diminished in number, and were hidden for

three or four hours; and lastly that they returned in crowds, about

four in the morning. What is the cause of these alternations of motion

and rest? Are these animals fatigued by long flight? It is rare on the

Orinoco to see real gnats by day; while at the Rio Magdalena we were

stung night and day, except from noon till about two o'clock. The

zancudos of the two rivers are no doubt of different species.

We have seen that the insects of the tropics everywhere follow a

certain standard in the periods at which they alternately arrive and

disappear. At fixed and invariable hours, in the same season, and the

same latitude, the air is peopled with new inhabitants, and in a zone

where the barometer becomes a clock,* (* By the extreme regularity of

the horary variations of the atmospheric pressure.) where everything

proceeds with such admirable regularity, we might guess blindfold the

hour of the day or night, by the hum of the insects, and by their

stings, the pain of which differs according to the nature of the

poison that each species deposits in the wound.

At a period when the geography of animals and of plants had not yet

been studied, the analogous species of different climates were often

confounded. It was believed that the pines and ranunculuses, the

stags, the rats, and the tipulary insects of the north of Europe, were

to be found in Japan, on the ridge of the Andes, and at the Straits of

Magellan. Justly celebrated naturalists have thought that the zancudo

of the torrid zone was the gnat of our marshes, become more vigorous,

more voracious, and more noxious, under the influence of a burning

climate. This is a very erroneous opinion. I carefully examined and

described upon the spot those zancudos, the stings of which are most

tormenting. In the rivers Magdalena and Guayaquil alone there are five

distinct species.

The culices of South America have generally the wings, corslet, and

legs of an azure colour, ringed and variegated with a mixture of spots

of metallic lustre. Here as in Europe, the males, which are

distinguished by their feathered antennae, are extremely rare; you are

seldom stung except by females. The preponderance of this sex explains

the immense increase of the species, each female laying several

hundred eggs. In going up one of the great rivers of America, it is

observed, that the appearance of a new species of culex denotes the

proximity of a new stream flowing in. I shall mention an instance of

this curious phenomenon. The Culex lineatus, which belongs to the Cano

Tamalamec, is only perceived in the valley of the Rio Grande de la

Magdalena, at a league north of the junction of the two rivers; it

goes up, but scarcely ever descends the Rio Grande. It is thus, that,

on a principal vein, the appearance of a new substance in the gangue

indicates to the miner the neighbourhood of a secondary vein that

joins the first.

On recapitulating the observations here recorded, we see, that within

the tropics, the mosquitos and zancudos do not rise on the slope of

the Cordilleras* toward the temperate region, where the mean heat is

below 19 or 20 degrees (* The culex pipiens of Europe does not, like

the culex of the torrid zone, shun mountainous places. Giesecke

suffered from these insects in Greenland, at Disco, in latitude 70

degrees. They are found in Lapland in summer, at three or four hundred

toises high, and at a temperature of 11 or 12 degrees.); and that,

with few exceptions, they shun the black waters, and dry and unwooded

spots.* (* Trifling modifications in the waters, or in the air, often

appear to prevent the development of the mosquitos. Mr. Bowdich

remarks that there are none at Coomassie, in the kingdom of the

Ashantees, though the town is surrounded by marshes, and though the

thermometer keeps up between seventeen and twenty-eight centesimal

degrees, day and night.) The atmosphere swarms with them much more in

the Upper than in the Lower Orinoco, because in the former the river

is surrounded with thick forests on its banks, and the skirts of the

forests are not separated from the river by a barren and extensive

beach. The mosquitos diminish on the New Continent with the diminution

of the water, and the destruction of the woods; but the effects of

these changes are as slow as the progress of cultivation. The towns of

Angostura, Nueva Barcelona, and Mompox, where from the want of police,

the streets, the great squares, and the interior of court-yards are

overgrown with brushwood, are sadly celebrated for the abundance of

zancudos.

People born in the country, whether whites, mulattoes, negroes, or

Indians, all suffer from the sting of these insects. But as cold does

not render the north of Europe uninhabitable, so the mosquitos do not

prevent men from dwelling in the countries where they abound, provided

that, by their situation and government, they afford resources for

agriculture and industry. The inhabitants pass their lives in

complaining of the insufferable torment of the mosquitos, yet,

notwithstanding these continual complaints, they seek, and even with a

sort of predilection, the commercial towns of Mompox, Santa Marta, and

Rio de la Hacha. Such is the force of habit in evils which we suffer

every hour of the day, that the three missions of San Borja, Atures,

and Esmeralda, where, to make use of an hyperbolical expression of the

monks, there are more mosquitos than air,* (* Mas moscas que aire.)

would no doubt become flourishing towns, if the Orinoco afforded

planters the same advantages for the exchange of produce, as the Ohio

and the Lower Mississippi.

It is a curious fact, that the whites born in the torrid zone may walk

barefoot with impunity, in the same apartment where a European

recently landed is exposed to the attack of the nigua or chegoe (Pulex

penetrans). This animal, almost invisible to the eye, gets under the

toe-nails, and there acquires the size of a small pea, by the quick

increase of its eggs, which are placed in a bag under the belly of the

insect. The nigua therefore distinguishes what the most delicate

chemical analysis could not distinguish, the cellular membrane and

blood of a European from those of a creole white. The mosquitos, on

the contrary, attack equally the natives and the Europeans; but the

effects of the sting are different in the two races of men. The same

venomous liquid, deposited in the skin of a copper-coloured man of

Indian race, and in that of a white man newly landed, causes no

swelling in the former, while in the latter it produces hard blisters,

greatly inflamed, and painful for several days; so different is the

action on the epidermis, according to the degree of irritability of

the organs in different races and different individuals!

I shall here recite several facts, which prove that the Indians, and

in general all the people of colour, at the moment of being stung,

suffer like the whites, although perhaps with less intensity of pain.

In the day-time, and even when labouring at the oar, the natives, in

order to chase the insects, are continually giving one another smart

slaps with the palm of the hand. They even strike themselves and their

comrades mechanically during their sleep. The violence of their blows

reminds one of the Persian tale of the bear that tried to kill with

his paw the insects on the forehead of his sleeping master. Near

Maypures we saw some young Indians seated in a circle and rubbing

cruelly each others' backs with the bark of trees dried at the fire.

Indian women were occupied, with a degree of patience of which the

copper-coloured race alone are capable, in extracting, by means of a

sharp bone, the little mass of coagulated blood that forms the centre

of every sting, and gives the skin a speckled appearance. One of the

most barbarous nations of the Orinoco, that of the Ottomacs, is

acquainted with the use of mosquito-curtains (mosquiteros) woven from

the fibres of the moriche palm-tree. At Higuerote, on the coast of

Caracas, the copper-coloured people sleep buried in the sand. In the

villages of the Rio Magdalena the Indians often invited us to stretch

ourselves as they did on ox-skins, near the church, in the middle of

the plaza grande, where they had assembled all the cows in the

neighbourhood. The proximity of cattle gives some repose to man. The

Indians of the Upper Orinoco and the Cassiquiare, seeing that M.

Bonpland could not prepare his herbal, owing to the continual torment

of the mosquitos, invited him to enter their ovens (hornitos). Thus

they call little chambers, without doors or windows, into which they

creep horizontally through a very low opening. When they have driven

away the insects by means of a fire of wet brushwood, which emits a

great deal of smoke, they close the opening of the oven. The absence

of the mosquitos is purchased dearly enough by the excessive heat of

the stagnated air, and the smoke of a torch of copal, which lights the

oven during your stay in it. M. Bonpland, with courage and patience

well worthy of praise, dried hundreds of plants, shut up in these

hornitos of the Indians.

These precautions of the Indians sufficiently prove that,

notwithstanding the different organization of the epidermis, the

copper-coloured man, like the white man, suffers from the stings of

insects; but the former seems to feel less pain, and the sting is not

followed by those swellings which, during several weeks, heighten the

irritability of the skin, and throw persons of a delicate constitution

into that feverish state which always accompanies eruptive maladies.

Whites born in equinoctial America, and Europeans who have long

sojourned in the Missions, on the borders of forests and great rivers,

suffer much more than the Indians, but infinitely less than Europeans

newly arrived. It is not, therefore, as some travellers assert, the

thickness of the skin that renders the sting more or less painful at

the moment when it is received; nor is it owing to the particular

organization of the integuments, that in the Indians the sting is

followed by less of swelling and inflammatory symptoms; it is on the

nervous irritability of the epidermis that the acuteness and duration

of the pain depend. This irritability is augmented by very warm

clothing, by the use of alcoholic liquors, by the habit of scratching

the wounds, and lastly, (and this physiological observation is the

result of my own experience,) that of baths repeated at too short

intervals. In places where the absence of crocodiles permits people to

enter a river, M. Bonpland and myself observed that the immoderate use

of baths, while it moderated the pain of old stings of zancudos,

rendered us more sensible to new stings. By bathing more than twice a

day, the skin is brought into a state of nervous irritability, of

which no idea can be formed in Europe. It would seem as if all feeling

were carried toward the integuments.

As the mosquitos and gnats pass two-thirds of their lives in the

water, it is not surprising that these noxious insects become less

numerous in proportion as you recede from the banks of the great

rivers which intersect the forests. They seem to prefer the spots

where their metamorphosis took place, and where they go to deposit

their eggs. In fact the wild Indians (Indios monteros) experience the

greater difficulty in accustoming themselves to the life of the

missions, as they suffer in the Christian establishments a torment

which they scarcely know in their own inland dwellings. The natives at

Maypures, Atures, and Esmeralda, have been seen fleeing to the woods,

or, as they say, al monte, solely from the dread of mosquitos.

Unfortunately, all the Missions of the Orinoco have been established

too near the banks of the river. At Esmeralda the inhabitants assured

us that if the village were situated in one of the five plains

surrounding the high mountains of Duida and Maraguaca, they should

breathe freely, and enjoy some repose. The great cloud of mosquitos

(la nube de moscas) to use the expression of the monks, is suspended

only over the Orinoco and its tributary streams, and is dissipated in

proportion as you remove from the rivers. We should form a very

inaccurate idea of Guiana and Brazil, were we to judge of that great

forest four hundred leagues wide, lying between the sources of the

Madeira and the Lower Orinoco, from the valleys of the rivers by which

it is crossed.

I learned that the little insects of the family of the nemocerae

migrate from time to time like the alouate monkeys, which live in

society. In certain spots, at the commencement of the rainy season,

different species appear, the sting of which has not yet been felt. We

were informed at the Rio Magdalena, that at Simiti no other culex than

the jejen was formerly known; and it was then possible to enjoy a

tranquil night's rest, for the jejen is not a nocturnal insect. Since

the year 1801, the great blue-winged gnat (Culex cyanopterus) has

appeared in such numbers, that the poor inhabitants of Simiti know not

how to procure an undisturbed sleep. In the marshy channels (esteros)

of the isle of Baru, near Carthagena, is found a little white fly

called cafafi. It is scarcely visible to the naked eye, and causes

very painful swellings. The toldos or cottons used for

mosquito-curtains, are wetted to prevent the cafafi penetrating

through the interstices left by the crossing threads. This insect,

happily rare elsewhere, goes up in January, by the channel (dique) of

Mahates, as far as Morales. When we went to this village in the month

of May, we found there cimuliae and zancudos, but no jejens.

The insects most troublesome at Orinoco, or as the Creoles say, the

most ferocious (los mas feroces), are those of the great cataracts of

Esmeralda and Mandavaca. On the Rio Magdalena the Culex cyanopterus is

dreaded, particularly at Mompox, Chiloa, and Tamalameca. At these

places this insect is larger and stronger, and its legs blacker. It is

difficult to avoid smiling on hearing the missionaries dispute about

the size and voracity of the mosquitos at different parts of the same

river. In a region the inhabitants of which are ignorant of all that

is passing in the rest of the world, this is the favourite subject of

conversation. "How I pity your situation!" said the missionary of the

Raudales to the missionary of Cassiquiare, at our departure; "you are

alone, like me, in this country of tigers and monkeys; with you fish

is still more rare, and the heat more violent; but as for my mosquitos

(mias moscas) I can boast that with one of mine I would beat three of

yours."

This voracity of insects in certain spots, the fury with which they

attack man,* (* This voracity, this appetite for blood, seems

surprising in little insects, that live on vegetable juices, and in a

country almost entirely uninhabited. "What would these animals eat, if

we did not pass this way?" say the Creoles, in going through countries

where there are only crocodiles covered with a scaly skin, and hairy

monkeys.) the activity of the venom varying in the same species, are

very remarkable facts; which find their analogy, however, in the

classes of large animals. The crocodile of Angostura pursues men,

while at Nueva Barcelona you may bathe tranquilly in the Rio Neveri

amidst these carnivorous reptiles. The jaguars of Maturin, Cumanacoa,

and the isthmus of Panama, are timid in comparison of those of the

Upper Orinoco. The Indians well know that the monkeys of some valleys

are easily tamed, while others of the same species, caught elsewhere,

will rather die of hunger than submit to slavery.* (* I might have

added the example of the scorpion of Cumana, which it is very

difficult to distinguish from that of the island of Trinidad, Jamaica,

Carthagena, and Guayaquil; yet the former is not more to be feared

than the Scorpio europaeus (of the south of France), while the latter

produces consequences far more alarming than the Scorpio occitanus (of

Spain and Barbary). At Carthagena and Guayaquil, the sting of the

scorpion (alacran) instantly causes the loss of speech. Sometimes a

singular torpor of the tongue is observed for fifteen or sixteen

hours. The patient, when stung in the legs, stammers as if he had been

struck with apoplexy.)

The common people in America have framed systems respecting the

salubrity of climates and pathological phenomena, as well as the

learned of Europe; and their systems, like ours, are diametrically

opposed to each other, according to the provinces into which the New

Continent is divided. At the Rio Magdalena the frequency of mosquitos

is regarded as troublesome, but salutary. These animals, say the

inhabitants, give us slight bleedings, and preserve us, in a country

excessively hot, from the scarlet fever, and other inflammatory

diseases. But at the Orinoco, the banks of which are very

insalubrious, the sick blame the mosquitos for all their sufferings.

It is unnecessary to refute the fallacy of the popular belief that the

action of the mosquitos is salutary by its local bleedings. In Europe

the inhabitants of marshy countries are not ignorant that the insects

irritate the epidermis, and stimulate its functions by the venom which

they deposit in the wounds they make. Far from diminishing the

inflammatory state of the skin, the stings increase it.

The frequency of gnats and mosquitos characterises unhealthy climates

only so far as the development and multiplication of these insects

depend on the same causes that give rise to miasmata. These noxious

animals love a fertile soil covered with plants, stagnant waters, and

a humid air never agitated by the wind; they prefer to an open country

those shades, that softened day, that tempered degree of light, heat,

and moisture which, while it favours the action of chemical

affinities, accelerates the putrefaction of organised substances. May

not the mosquitos themselves increase the insalubrity of the

atmosphere? When we reflect that to the height of three or four toises

a cubic foot of air is often peopled by a million of winged insects,*

(* It is sufficient to mention, that the cubic foot contains 2,985,984

cubic lines.) which contain a caustic and venomous liquid; when we

recollect that several species of culex are 1.8 lines long from the

head to the extremity of the corslet (without reckoning the legs);

lastly, when we consider that in this swarm of mosquitos and gnats,

diffused in the atmosphere like smoke, there is a great number of dead

insects raised by the force of the ascending air, or by that of the

lateral currents which are caused by the unequal heating of the soil,

we are led to inquire whether the presence of so many animal

substances in the air must not occasion particular miasmata. I think

that these substances act on the atmosphere differently from sand and

dust; but it will be prudent to affirm nothing positively on this

subject. Chemistry has not yet unveiled the numerous mysteries of the

insalubrity of the air; it has only taught us that we are ignorant of

many things with which a few years ago we believed we were acquainted.

Daily experience appears in a certain degree to prove the fact that at

the Orinoco, Cassiquiare, Rio Caura, and wherever the air is very

unhealthy, the sting of the mosquito augments the disposition of the

organs to receive the impression of miasmata. When you are exposed day

and night, during whole months, to the torment of insects, the

continual irritation of the skin causes febrile commotions; and, from

the sympathy existing between the dermoid and the gastric systems,

injures the functions of the stomach. Digestion first becomes

difficult, the cutaneous inflammation excites profuse perspirations,

an unquenchable thirst succeeds, and, in persons of a feeble

constitution, increasing impatience is succeeded by depression of

mind, during which all the pathogenic causes act with increased

violence. It is neither the dangers of navigating in small boats, the

savage Indians, nor the serpents, crocodiles, or jaguars, that make

Spaniards dread a voyage on the Orinoco; it is, as they say with

simplicity, "el sudar y las moscas," (the perspiration and the flies).

We have reason to believe that mankind, as they change the surface of

the soil, will succeed in altering by degrees the constitution of the

atmosphere. The insects will diminish when the old trees of the forest

have disappeared; when, in those countries now desert, the rivers are

seen bordered with cottages, and the plains covered with pastures and

harvests.

Whoever has lived long in countries infested by mosquitos will be

convinced, as we were, that there exists no remedy for the torment of

these insects. The Indians, covered with anoto, bolar earth, or turtle

oil, are not protected from their attacks. It is doubtful whether the

painting even relieves: it certainly does not prevent the evil.

Europeans, recently arrived at the Orinoco, the Rio Magdalena, the

river Guayaquil, or Rio Chagres (I mention the four rivers where the

insects are most to be dreaded) at first obtain some relief by

covering their faces and hands, but they soon feel it difficult to

endure the heat, are weary of being condemned to complete inactivity,

and finish with leaving the face and hands uncovered. Persons who

would renounce all kind of occupation during the navigation of these

rivers, might bring some particular garment from Europe in the form of

a bag, under which they could remain covered, opening it only every

half-hour. This bag should be distended by whalebone hoops, for a

close mask and gloves would be perfectly insupportable. Sleeping on

the ground, on skins, or in hammocks, we could not make use of

mosquito-curtains (toldos) while on the Orinoco. The toldo is useful

only where it forms a tent so well closed around the bed that there is

not the smallest opening by which a gnat can pass. This is difficult

to accomplish; and often when you succeed (for instance, in going up

the Rio Magdalena, where you travel with some degree of convenience),

you are forced, in order to avoid being suffocated by the heat, to

come out from beneath your toldo, and walk about in the open air. A

feeble wind, smoke, and powerful smells, scarcely afford any relief in

places where the insects are very numerous and very voracious. It is

erroneously affirmed that these little animals fly from the peculiar

smell emitted by the crocodile. We were fear fully stung at Bataillez,

in the road from Carthagena to Honda, while we were dissecting a

crocodile eleven feet long, the smell of which infested all the

surrounding atmosphere. The Indians much commend the fumes of burnt

cow-dung. When the wind is very strong, and accompanied by rain, the

mosquitos disappear for some time: they sting most cruelly at the

approach of a storm, particularly when the electric explosions are not

followed by heavy showers.

Anything waved about the head and the hands contributes to chase away

the insects. "The more you stir yourself, the less you will be stung,"

say the missionaries. The zancudo makes a buzzing before it settles;

but, when it has assumed confidence, when it has once begun to fix its

sucker, and distend itself, you may touch its wings without its being

frightened. It remains the whole time with its two hind legs raised;

and, if left to suck to satiety, no swelling takes place, and no pain

is left behind. We often repeated this experiment on ourselves in the

valley of the Rio Magdalena. It may be asked whether the insect

deposits the stimulating liquid only at the moment of its flight, when

it is driven away, or whether it draws the liquid up again when left

to suck undisturbed. I incline to this latter opinion; for on quietly

presenting the back of my hand to the Culex cyanopterus, I observed

that the pain, though violent in the beginning, diminishes in

proportion as the insect continues to suck, and ceases altogether when

it voluntarily flies away. I also wounded my skin with a pin, and

rubbed the pricks with bruised mosquitos, and no swelling ensued. The

irritating liquid, in which chemists have not yet recognized any acid

properties, is contained, as in the ant and other hymenopterous

insects, in particular glands; and is probably too much diluted, and

consequently too much weakened, if the skin be rubbed with the whole

of the bruised insect.

I have thrown together at the close of this chapter all we learned

during the course of our travels on phenomena which naturalists have

hitherto singularly neglected, though they exercise a great influence

on the welfare of the inhabitants, the salubrity of the climate, and

the establishment of new colonies on the rivers of equinoctial

America. I might justly have incurred the charge of having treated

this subject too much in detail, were it not connected with general

physiological views. Our imagination is struck only by what is great;

but the lover of natural philosophy should reflect equally on little

things. We have just seen that winged insects, collected in society,

and concealing in their sucker a liquid that irritates the skin, are

capable of rendering vast countries almost uninhabitable. Other

insects equally small, the termites (comejen),* (* Literally, the

eaters or the devourers.) create obstacles to the progress of

civilization, in several hot and temperate parts of the equinoctial

zone, that are difficult to be surmounted. They devour paper,

pasteboard, and parchment with frightful rapidity, utterly destroying

records and libraries. Whole provinces of Spanish America do not

possess one written document that dates a hundred years back. What

improvement can the civilization of nations acquire if nothing link

the present with the past; if the depositories of human knowledge must

be repeatedly renewed; if the records of genius and reason cannot be

transmitted to posterity?

In proportion as you ascend the table-land of the Andes these evils

disappear. Man breathes a fresh and pure air. Insects no more disturb

the labours of the day or the slumbers of the night. Documents can be

collected in archives without our having to complain of the voracity

of the termites. Mosquitos are no longer feared at a height of two

hundred toises; and the termites, still very frequent at three hundred

toises of elevation,* (* There are some at Popayan (height 910 toises;

mean temperature 18.7 degrees), but they are species that gnaw wood

only.) become very rare at Mexico, Santa Fe de Bogota, and Quito. In

these great capitals, situated on the back of the Cordilleras, we find

libraries and archives, augmented from day to day by the enlightened

zeal of the inhabitants. These circumstances, combined with others,

insure a moral preponderance to the Alpine region over the lower

regions of the torrid zone. If we admit, agreeably to the ancient

traditions collected in both the old and new worlds, that at the time

of the catastrophe which preceded the renewal of our species, man

descended from the mountains into the plains, we may admit, with still

greater confidence, that these mountains, the cradle of so many

various nations, will for ever remain the centre of human civilization

in the torrid zone. From these fertile and temperate table-lands, from

these islets scattered in the aerial ocean, knowledge and the

blessings of social institutions will be spread over those vast

forests extending along the foot of the Andes, now inhabited only by

savage tribes whom the very wealth of nature has retained in indolence

and barbarism.

Personal Narrative of Travels to the Equinoctial Regions of America, During the Year 1799-1804 — Volume 2 · 第 18 / 24 章