CHAPTER XI

OF THE PASSAGE OF THE RIVER DEE, AND OF CHESTER

HAVING crossed the river Dee below Chester, (which the Welsh call

Doverdwy), on the third day before Easter, or the day of absolution (holy

Thursday), we reached Chester. As the river Wye towards the south

separates Wales from England, so the Dee near Chester forms the northern

boundary. The inhabitants of these parts assert, that the waters of this

river change their fords every month, and, as it inclines more towards

England or Wales, they can, with certainty, prognosticate which nation

will be successful or unfortunate during the year. This river derives

its origin from the lake Penmelesmere, {131a} and, although it abounds

with salmon, yet none are found in the lake. It is also remarkable, that

this river is never swollen by rains, but often rises by the violence of

the winds.

Chester boasts of being the burial-place of Henry, {131b} a Roman

emperor, who, after having imprisoned his carnal and spiritual father,

pope Paschal, gave himself up to penitence; and, becoming a voluntary

exile in this country, ended his days in solitary retirement. It is also

asserted, that the remains of Harold are here deposited. He was the last

of the Saxon kings in England, and as a punishment for his perjury, was

defeated in the battle of Hastings, fought against the Normans. Having

received many wounds, and lost his left eye by an arrow in that

engagement, he is said to have escaped to these parts, where, in holy

conversation, leading the life of an anchorite, and being a constant

attendant at one of the churches of this city, he is believed to have

terminated his days happily. {132} The truth of these two circumstances

was declared (and not before known) by the dying confession of each

party. We saw here, what appeared novel to us, cheese made of deer’s

milk; for the countess and her mother keeping tame deer, presented to the

archbishop three small cheeses made from their milk.

In this same country was produced, in our time, a cow partaking of the

nature of a stag, resembling its mother in the fore parts and the stag in

its hips, legs, and feet, and having the skin and colour of the stag;

but, partaking more of the nature of the domestic than of the wild

animal, it remained with the herd of cattle. A bitch also was pregnant

by a monkey, and produced a litter of whelps resembling a monkey before,

and the dog behind; which the rustic keeper of the military hall seeing

with astonishment and abhorrence, immediately killed with the stick he

carried in his hand; thereby incurring the severe resentment and anger of

his lord, when the latter became acquainted with the circumstance.

In our time, also, a woman was born in Chester without hands, to whom

nature had supplied a remedy for that defect by the flexibility and

delicacy of the joints of her feet, with which she could sew, or perform

any work with thread or scissors, as well as other women.

The Itinerary of Archbishop Baldwin Through Wales · 第 11 / 14 章