mountainous section, possessing more lakes than any other county in the
state, some over 2000 feet above sea, ranging in area from 3 to 358
acres, many of them well stocked with bass, perch, pickerel, and other
fish, while the whole county abounds in trout streams. From north to
south is a wonderful expanse of scenery; FARVIEW, altitude, 1500 feet,
on the Moosic Mountain, near Waymart, includes, in its panorama, the
distant Catskills; from the southern roads, extended views are also
enjoyed. A beautiful drive follows the Wallenpaupack Creek (slow water)
passing the Falls at Hawley, meeting place of the Paupack Indians; good
roads continue to Milford and the Water Gap, or to Gouldsboro, Scranton
and Wilkes-Barre. On the road from Honesdale to Carbondale the path of
the old Delaware & Hudson Gravity Railroad may still be traced.
Early industries were hunting, lumbering, and tanning; now the modern
creamery is an important factor, also stock raising and agriculture. One
hundred years ago a small colony of Germans settled a half mile west of
Bethany and started a glass factory, utilizing native sand and clay;
from 1847 to 1861 window glass was manufactured at Tracyville; in 1865,
Christian Dorflinger built large factories for manufacturing and cutting
glass, at White Mills, five miles south of
[Illustration: WAYNE COUNTY]
Honesdale; glass-cutting factories are now numerous in the county, and
gold decorating of glass has been introduced among Wayne’s industries.
HONESDALE, made the county seat in 1841; population 2756; altitude, 1000
feet; named for Philip Hone, president of the Delaware and Hudson Canal
Company, which started here for tidewater at Rondout on the Hudson,
built 1826-28, abandoned, 1898; Honesdale owes its growth and prosperity
to the canal; it was one of the anthracite stepping stones to a waiting
market. Three locomotives were purchased by the canal company to draw
coal from the mines in Carbondale and vicinity to the canal at
Honesdale; the first one, the Stourbridge Lion, was brought by canal
boat to Honesdale in 1829 and a trial trip was made; the wooden rails,
then used for the railroad, were not firm enough for the strain of the
engine, and it was never run again; however, Wayne County takes
precedence in having had the first locomotive ever run in America make
its trial and only trip at Honesdale; it is now at the Smithsonian
Institute, Washington. The New York & Erie Railroad follows the course
of the old canal through the town.
Courthouse built, 1880; brick with stone trimmings; contains portrait of
General Anthony Wayne, copied from original in Wayne family,
Philadelphia, by Miss Jennie Brownscombe, native of Wayne County; two
large Parrott guns in front are relics of the Civil War. It faces
Central Park, where stands a Soldiers’ Monument, dedicated in 1869 by
Governor John W. Geary; pedestal with bronze plates inscribed with names
of nearly 350 Wayne County men lost in Civil War; also fountain in
center of park, memorial of the National Centennial, both placed by the
women of Honesdale who are said to be the first in the state to organize
a Village Improvement Society; they, aided by the town council, have
done much for the beautifying of the town; the parks have received
special attention; besides Central Park are North Park, and on either
side of the Main Street bridge lie Torrey Park, West, and Riverside
Park, East, overshadowed by Irving Cliff, 300 feet high, named in honor
of Washington Irving, who, while in Honesdale in 1841 with Philip Hone,
climbed to the summit of the ledge overlooking the town.
Grace Protestant Episcopal Church, Gothic, stone, contains white marble
font, good design, gift of Philip Hone, in 1848. Baptist Church, wood,
classic, with Ionic columns supporting the porch, built 1843-45. Glen
Dyberry Cemetery contains grave of Attorney General Samuel E. Dimmick,
died, 1875, marked by granite shaft; his residence, brick, is south of
courthouse. North of Honesdale is stone arched bridge over Carley Brook,
made in 1909; builder, Samuel Brown from England.
BETHANY, first county seat in 1800, was staked out in the primeval
forest. Courthouse, built, 1800, is now used as a store; new courthouse
and brick offices were built 1820-23, the office building still
standing; courthouse was abandoned in 1842, after it was remodeled it
became the University of Northern Pennsylvania, with the public square
as campus, and was burned in 1857. Between the old cemetery and the
street stands the first Presbyterian
[Illustration: RIVERSIDE PARK, IRVING CLIFF, HONESDALE]
church erected in the county, in 1822. Several old dwellings have
beautiful colonial doorways. An old tavern, built by Henry Drinker, in
1802, still stands. PLEASANT MOUNT, altitude, 1600 feet, sixteen miles
north of Honesdale, residence of General Samuel Meredith, officer in the
Revolutionary War, and United States Treasurer under Washington,
commission dated September 11, 1789; he lived near, on manor lands, from
1803-17, said to have been visited by Thomas Jefferson; the house was
burned; granite monument in his honor was erected by the state,
unveiled, 1904, represents a Continental general, from a design by Miss
Clara Keen; architect, Martin Caufield, both of Honesdale.
The Delaware River forms the eastern boundary; a woodland road follows
the river. At MILANVILLE, is the old Skinner house, oldest, still in use
in Wayne County, loopholes near the roof were made for defense against
Indians; many Indian relics were found around here. Wayne County’s only
battlefield, unmarked, is in Sterling township, called “Little Meadows,”
near it passed an old Indian trail, from Delaware River to Wyoming
Valley; on July 4, 1778, the day after the Wyoming Massacre, Indians
attacked a few white people, with loss on both sides. On the Eastern and
Belmont Highway is a nine-sided, stone schoolhouse of early
construction. Three others are found in the county.
[Illustration: ADAMS COUNTY]
XXVI
ADAMS COUNTY
Formed January 22, 1800. Named for John Adams, then President of the
United States; notable for the Battle of Gettysburg; chief industry,
agriculture. County seat, GETTYSBURG, founded in 1786, population 4439.
First court held in residence of General James Gettys; present
courthouse contains portraits of Justices Marshall and Gibson. Federal
Building, the post office, marble, Corinthian, architect, J. Knox
Taylor, Washington, D. C., contains interesting battle-field museum,
maps, and miniature reproductions. The United States Battle Field
Commission has offices here. The Wills Building, at the corner of Center
Square and Lincoln Highway, is where President Lincoln stayed November,
1863, before his famous address. Presbyterian Church, nearly 176 years
old, where President Lincoln worshipped November 19, 1863; the pew he
occupied has a bronze plate; church used as hospital during the battle.
Lutheran Theological Seminary, west of town, on Seminary Ridge, contains
large copy of Leonardo da Vinci’s “Last Supper,” painted by the late
James B. Sward, Philadelphia; also used as hospital by Union soldiers;
it is said that General Lee took observations from its tower; near, in
Reynolds Grove, General John F. Reynolds was killed, place marked by
bronze equestrian statue, sculptor, H. K. Bush-Brown. In the Dobbin
House, stone, on Steinwehr Avenue, built, 1776, was conducted first
classical school in Pennsylvania, west of the Susquehanna. Southeast
corner of Washington and High Streets was the first home of Pennsylvania
College, established in 1832; now northwest of the town on a beautiful
campus; main building, “Old Dorm,” is fine colonial architecture. Jennie
Wade War Museum near cemetery, shows bullet marks, home of only citizen
killed during the battle, has collection of relics and curios. Artists
of note born here are Charles Morris Young and Lytton Buehler.
The BATTLE FIELD covered 16,000 acres, not including cavalry field four
miles east; Union Army was commanded by General George G. Meade, 80,000
to 90,000 men; Confederate Army, commanded by General Robert E. Lee,
about 80,000 to 85,000 men; desperate charges were made in hand-to-hand
conflicts. The cyclorama, “Battle of Gettysburg,” painted by Paul
Philippoteaux, is on exhibition. The Gettysburg Battle Field Memorial
Association was incorporated by the Legislature of Pennsylvania to hold
and preserve the battle ground, with natural and artificial defenses, as
at time of battle, and to mark definitely lines of battle of all troops.
It is now a national park and cemetery, in charge of a commission,
appointed by the Secretary of War, including over 7000 acres with fifty
miles of macadam roads amid most beautiful scenery.
Here we have the greatest number of memorials in Pennsylvania, erected
by the various states. Among the 404 monuments and 894 markers are, The
National Monument, white granite, four figures at base, representing
War, History, Peace, Plenty; shaft supports
[Illustration: OLD PITTSBURGH AND PHILADELPHIA PIKE
This pike, in Adams County, was used by both armies during the Civil
War]
Statue of Liberty; all figures are of Italian marble, carved in Italy,
sculptor, Randolph Rogers; bronze equestrian statue, General George
Gordon Meade, near center of line of battle, sculptor H. K. Bush-Brown;
bronze equestrian statue, General John Sedgwick, north of Little Round
Top, sculptor H. K. Bush-Brown; bronze equestrian statue, General
Winfield Scott Hancock, east Cemetery Hill, sculptor, F. Ellwell; bronze
equestrian statue, General Henry W. Slocum, on Steven’s Knoll, near
Culp’s Hill, sculptor, E. C. Potter; bronze statue, General John F.
Reynolds, at entrance to National Cemetery, sculptor, J. Q. A. Ward;
bronze statue, General Alexander Stewart Webb, sculptor, J. Massey
Rhind, placed at the Bloody Angle where Pickett’s charge was halted and
beaten back; General Webb was the officer in command at this spot;
bronze statue, General Warren, on Little Round Top, sculptor, Gerhart.
Pennsylvania State Monument, double arch, 110 feet high, 80 feet square
at base, crowned with dome surmounted by a bronze Victory, eight bronze
statues at base of Ionic columns, Lincoln, sculptor, J. Otto Schweizer;
Curtin, sculptor, W. Clarke Nobel; Meade, sculptor, Lee O. Lawrie;
Hancock, sculptor, Cryrus P. Dallin; Pleasanton, sculptor, J. Otto
Schweizer; Reynolds, sculptor, Lee O. Lawrie; D. McM. Gregg, sculptor,
J. Otto Schweizer; Birney, sculptor, Lee O. Lawrie; bronze tablets
around base contain names of every soldier of Pennsylvania in Battle at
Gettysburg, 34,530. New York State Monument, tall granite shaft,
supporting bronze statue of liberty, with four bronze battle reliefs in
pedestal; bronze trophy, state shield and corps badges at base of
shaft, sculptor, Casper Buberl. Vermont State Monument, fluted shaft
surmounted by statue of General George J. Stannard. Irish Brigade
Monument, Celtic cross, with Irish hound at base, sculptor, Rudolph
O’Donovan.
In the National Cemetery are buried 3589 Union soldiers; it was
dedicated November, 1863, when President Lincoln delivered his immortal
address, ending, “This nation, under God, shall have a new birth of
freedom--and that government of the people, by the people, and for the
people, shall not perish from the earth.” Fiftieth anniversary of the
battle, fought July 1-2-3, 1863, was celebrated here in 1913 by reunion
of veterans.
The Russell Tavern, now a residence on old Shippensburg Road, three
miles north of Gettysburg, is where Washington stopped in 1794, after
quelling the Whiskey Rebellion. In Cashtown, the Civic League has formed
a recreation park, using the old tavern for a Library; west of this town
is the old Pittsburgh and Philadelphia Pike, used by both armies during
Civil War. Conewago Mission at Edgegrove was established in 1741 by two
Jesuit missionaries; present church, colonial, stone, was built in 1787;
enlarged, 1851; paintings over the altar and in the transepts were made
by Francis Stecker; Roman Catholic missions were established within a
radius of twenty miles from this mother house.
XXVII
CENTER COUNTY
Formed February 13, 1800; named for its position in center of state;
notable for the State College. Chief industry, agriculture; formerly
mining and manufacture of iron; limestone is extensively quarried; coal
is mined about Philipsburg and Snow Shoe. The state owns 21,000 acres of
forest reserve, through which several of the state highways pass;
“Fireline” cuts made by the state foresters may be seen.
For a wonderful mountain ride, take the State Road from Tyrone, Blair
County, to Bellefonte, following Bald Eagle Valley, and passing several
small towns named for women, where remains of iron furnaces may be seen;
near Snow Shoe Intersection, a state highway leads up the mountain, with
unsurpassed views, to Snow Shoe; follow this road to Philipsburg, then
to Bald Eagle Valley. Another beautiful ride is on the state road from
Mifflinburg, Union County, across the mountain, through Millheim and
Spring Mills to the Old Fort. From Spring Mills a short trip may be made
to Penn’s Cave; this is “Penn’s Grandest Cavern”; the trip through the
cave is 1400 feet in length, made in motor boats carrying torches or
acetylene lights, the water is a transparent greenish color, greatest
depth 35 or 40 feet.
A road from Lewistown, Mifflin County, to Lock Haven via Bellefonte,
crosses the Seven Mountains
[Illustration: CENTER COUNTY]
with wonderful views; at Potter’s Mills is an old furnace and mill. Near
the “Old Fort Tavern” is marker, on site of stockade built in 1768
against Indians, placed by Bellefonte Chapter of Daughters American
Revolution. Leaving Penn Valley, the road crosses Nittany Mountain, Bald
Eagle Mountains may be seen beyond, with crest of Alleghenies in the
background.
From Pleasant Gap a detour may be made to STATE COLLEGE; population
2405; Pennsylvania State College was founded by the United States
Government; in 1862 Congress passed the Land Grant Act, offering to each
state and territory in the Union a gift of public lands, the proceeds
from the sales to provide for the maintenance of a college to promote
the liberal and practical education of the industrial classes, in the
several pursuits and professions of life. The offer was accepted by the
Legislature of this state in 1863, and the institution, then known as
the Agricultural College of Pennsylvania, designated to receive the Land
Grant. There are thirty-four buildings on a campus of 1500 acres; “Old
Main,” built in 1857 as the Agricultural College of Pennsylvania, native
limestone, is fine specimen of early architecture; the chemistry and
liberal arts buildings are Classic style; mining and agricultural
groups, Italian Renaissance.
The college maintains departments of study in industrial and fine arts,
architecture, art history, and engineering; architectural exhibitions
show many specimens of students’ work, some of them prize winners in the
Beaux Arts contests; the ornamental gateway, a gift of the class of
1916, was designed by the students. College Museum contains, among the
portraits, those of the seven Presidents of the college, and Governor
Beaver, also other paintings, marbles and metal work. Art is being
emphasized in the summer school. Auditorium presented by Charles Schwab,
Esq., has in the lobby, heroic statue, “The Hewer,” by George Gray
Barnard. Opposite on the campus is the Carnegie Library; architects,
Seymour Davis and Paul A. Davis.
Near State College is a picturesque village, BOALSBURG, laid out with a
small formal center square, from which streets radiate toward the
distant mountains. Colonel Theodore Boal, architect, who raised and
equipped a machine gun company for the World War, has created a museum
for his warfare collections, curious old armor, dating back to the
Crusaders, and a large amount of World War relics, German airplanes,
helmets, gas masks, etc.; there is also a Napoleon Room; and he has
erected a chapel, old Spanish model, which houses rare wall hangings,
vestments, church furnishings, and manuscripts in Spanish, dating from
the time of Columbus; they were inherited by Mrs. Boal, a direct
descendant from Columbus. Colonel Boal also keeps up, on his property, a
reservation or captain’s camp, for the Twenty-eighth Division, the Iron
Division.
BELLEFONTE, county seat, population 3996, was founded, 1795, by James
Harris and Colonel James Dunlop, who gave the ground for the courthouse
and academy; and certain lots, to be sold, to provide for the erection
of said buildings. Name said to have been suggested by Talleyrand, who
visited James Harris at his home “Marlbrook,” now the Bellefonte Poor
House;
[Illustration: COURT HOUSE AND GOVERNOR CURTIN MEMORIAL, BELLEFONTE]
being asked by Mrs. Harris to suggest a name for the town he said,
“Bellefonte, for this beautiful spring”; the spring is computed to flow
14,600 gallons per minute, and scarcely varies, entire supply being
conveyed to the borough. It is a conservative and aristocratic old town,
with residences of Governors Curtin, Beaver, and Hastings, whose homes
may still be seen; and fine old colonial doorways; the library of Judge
Ellis L. Orvis is noted for its rare first editions, one of the best in
Pennsylvania.
Courthouse is in the Public Square, built, 1805, Greco-colonial, with
Ionic columns, architect, probably Ezra Ale, has been twice enlarged
without changing the front; entrance to the east addition harmonizes
with the main west front; architects, Newman & Harris, Philadelphia, for
enlargement in 1911. Contains portraits of past judges of the county. In
the diamond, in front of courthouse, is state memorial to Pennsylvania’s
War Governor and United States Ambassador to Russia, Andrew G. Curtin;
bronze, heroic, portrait statue on granite pedestal, sculptor, W. Clark
Noble; on either side are bronze panels giving names of Center County’s
soldiers in wars of the Republic. The Bellefonte Academy, founded in
1805, burned 1905, was rebuilt, classic, architect, Robert Cole of
Bellefonte.
[Illustration: BEAVER COUNTY]
XXVIII
BEAVER COUNTY
Formed March 12, 1800; named for one of our most industrious little
animals; was in the track of earliest of French and English explorers of
the Mississippi Valley, to which the Ohio River Valley forms an integral
part. It was the scene of heroic labors of Moravian and Jesuit
missionaries, who built their stations on the borders of the Beaver
River. The Indian villages were the homes of some of the most noted
warriors of the aboriginal tribes, and sites of important treaty
conferences between them and the colonial governments of Pennsylvania
and Virginia. Chief industries are coal and steel. Yards of the
Pennsylvania Railroad at Conway, said to be the largest in the world;
the famous glass factories of Rochester and Monaca, are at junction of
the Ohio and Beaver rivers. Four bridges are here, including that of the
Pittsburgh and Lake Erie Railroad, a massive structure of fine
engineering skill, 90 feet above the river.
BEAVER, county seat (Indian, Shingoes Town), population 4135, was laid
out in 1791, on a high level plateau overlooking the Ohio River, by the
Surveyor General of the state. Five streets, 100 feet wide, following
direction of river, were planned, with five of same width crossing at
right angles, and each square divided again by streets 25 feet in width;
eight squares were reserved for use of the town, one at each corner,
north, east, south and west, and four in the center, which, with a wide
strip fronting the river, constitute the parks; all beautifully laid
out, they have large trees, and are planted with ornamental shrubbery.
The present added territory, east and west, makes the town twice the
original size. Courthouse, brick with stone trimmings, is on one of the
center squares; the jail, a quaint old stone building, faces on opposite
square; in center stands the Soldiers’ and Sailors’ Monument. At foot of
Market Street is a tall flagstaff marking site of Fort McIntosh, built,
1778, by General McIntosh, on earlier site of a French town built in
1754.
BEAVER FALLS, population 12,802, oldest and largest manufacturing town,
consequent on the great water power of Beaver River and Falls, has
Geneva College and a fine Carnegie Library. The residence section is on
a bluff 200 feet high, with fine view. NEW BRIGHTON, population 9361,
connected with Beaver Falls by bridges, has the Merrick Art Galleries,
acquired by gift to the city, with collection of paintings of merit and
value, and liberal endowment for purpose of adding to the collection,
library, museum, and to employ teachers in the future. Armory is
headquarters of the famous Tenth Regiment. Near the town is a ravine,
through which flows Brady’s Run, scene of many thrilling events in life
of the famous Indian fighter, Captain Samuel Brady. Morado has a
beautiful park on the Beaver River. At Rock Point, on the
Connoquenessing Creek, is wild and tumultuous scenery.
LEGIONVILLE, General Anthony Wayne wintered his soldiers here in 1792;
the trenches and position of some of the redoubts are still
discernible; marked by flagstaff, erected by the Fort McIntosh Chapter,
Daughters of the American Revolution. Farther east is quaint old town of
ECONOMY, home of the Harmony Society, disciples of Doctor Rapp; thrifty,
industrious people of the past, almost effaced by the town of Ambridge,
of the American Bridge Company, who purchased a large tract of their
land.
Near Smith’s Ferry, on the north bank of the Ohio, is large group of
interesting Indian picture carvings, cut into the surface of the
Piedmont sandstone, exposed in the river at a three foot stage of water;
they are scattered over the surface of the rock ledge, for a space about
forty feet in width, and 700 feet in length, and represent a great
variety of the forms of men and animals, birds, fish, and reptiles,
including the beaver, bear, wolf, turtle, snake, and eagle, human
footprints and the tracks of various beasts; as well as inanimate
objects, scalphoop, bows, and arrows; there is also a picture of a bison
chasing a dog; another large collection of similar pictures, on the
Susquehanna River at Safe Harbor, Lancaster County, contains the same
forms of the wolf and the turtle, from which well-known tribes of the
Delaware Indians were named, which would seem to connect them with that
tribe; casts and photographs of these carvings may be seen at the
Carnegie Museum, Pittsburgh.
[Illustration: CRAWFORD COUNTY]
XXIX
CRAWFORD COUNTY
Formed March 20, 1800; named for Colonel William Crawford. First well in
the world drilled for petroleum, was completed here in 1859; valley of
Oil Creek, south of Titusville, once most productive of oil in United
States. Land peculiarly suited to grazing, stock raising, and general
farming. French Creek was followed by Washington, 1753, from Franklin,
Venango County, to Fort Le Breuf, Erie County. He returned, descending
it in canoe; on French Creek, north of Meadville, are Saegerstown and
Cambridge Springs, with famous health-giving waters. Conneaut Lake,
three and one-half miles by one mile, is largest lake in Pennsylvania,
covering about 1200 acres.