Street, now grocery and hardware store, was site of the Joshua Emery’s
Hotel; here President James Monroe was entertained in 1817. On east side
of North Central Avenue, between Pike and College Streets, vacant lot,
site of Black Horse Tavern, notable as the resort of men who rifled the
mail sacks, when letters supposed to contain evidence against violaters
of the excise laws were stolen, _en route_ to Philadelphia from
Pittsburgh, 1794. Residence 62-68 East Pike Street, built by Dr.
Jonathan Letherman, before 1830, here Dr. John McMillan died in 1833;
the flower garden, with brick wall, was laid out by a landscape gardener
brought from Philadelphia by Dr. Letherman, original designs still
retained. The Hutchinson house, north side, West College Street, corner
of Hutchinson Avenue and adjacent lots, once the Hutchinson farm, was
where the “Whiskey boys” encamped in 1794, here also “musters” were held
before the Civil War. Chartiers Presbyterian (Hill) Church and burial
ground, one mile south of Canonsburg, is where Dr. John McMillan began
his pastorate in 1775, and was buried; here, Woodrow Wilson’s father was
also a former pastor; this site became a rendezvous for the Whiskey
Insurrectionists in 1794.
A natural park of seventy acres, within east side of the borough,
acquired by gift, is a beautiful breathing spot for the whole community.
About one mile northeast of Canonsburg, at Morganza, is the Western
Pennsylvania Industrial School; the Morgan Lands, eleven hundred acres,
was the home of General George Morgan, Indian agent in Pittsburgh
1775-79; a portion of his residence is still standing, about midway
between Morganza and Pollock; here he was visited by Aaron Burr in 1806.
General Morgan and his two sons were summoned to Richmond, as witnesses,
when Burr was tried for treason.
MONONGAHELA, an important town, first called Parkinson’s Ferry, then
Williamsport; the men here took an active part in the Whiskey
Insurrection, 1794. It furnished its quota of soldiers, known as the
Williamsport Rangers, for the War of 1812. Monument to Colonel Hawkins,
and to the Philippine veterans. James Gillespie Blaine was born at West
Brownsville in 1830. AMITY, southern part of Washington, near county
line, was the residence of Solomon Spalding, born in Connecticut,
minister of the Congregational Church; here he wrote the “Manuscript
Found,” or Book of Mormon; he was not a robust man, and spent many hours
writing this romance, with no idea of founding a religious sect; he
would read his book in the evenings to the men gathered in the general
store; died, 1816, age fifty-five, grave marked by large granite block.
XIII
FAYETTE COUNTY
Organized September 26, 1783; named in honor of the Marquis de
Lafayette; occupied prominent place in Indian, Revolutionary, and later
wars. On Jacobs Creek, a mile and a half above the point where it
empties into the Youghiogheny River, stands the ruins of the first
furnace for the production of pig iron, west of the Allegheny Mountains;
the furnace was put in blast November, 1790, and was known as the
Alliance Iron Works, operated by William Turnbull and Peter Marmie of
Philadelphia; it continued in blast until 1802 using the native ores
from the neighboring hillsides, and charcoal burned from the surrounding
forests; in 1792 the company cast four hundred six-pound shot for the
Fort Pitt Arsenal at Pittsburgh. Coal mining and coke are now the chief
industries. Connellsville coke is known throughout the industrial world.
Aboriginal inhabitants were the Shawnee Indians, who made various
earthworks and burial mounds, along the Monongahela and Youghiogheny
Rivers before their migration southward; it was part of the “Hunting
Grounds” of the Iroquois Confederation; the “Indian Title” was
extinguished by treaty at Fort Stanwix, 1768.
In 1749 Nemacolin, a Delaware Indian, guided Colonel Thomas Cresap from
Wills Creek, Cumberland, Maryland, to the mouth of Dunlap’s Creek,
where
[Illustration: FAYETTE COUNTY]
Fort Burd was erected in 1759, on site of “Redstone Old Fort,” an Indian
earthwork, now Brownsville; this was called Nemacolin’s trail, and was
the best course for the Ohio Company to reach the Ohio River. It was
followed by Washington, with Christopher Gist, to the French forts in
1753, the first actual step here, in conflict with France. During the
“French and Indian War” Fayette County was the scene of some of the most
thrilling events in American history. In 1745 Washington’s expedition to
gain possession of the Ohio Valley followed this trail to drive the
French from “The Forks” (Pittsburgh); he advanced to Gist’s Plantation
at Mount Braddock, then retreated to The Great Meadows, Fort Necessity,
marked by tablet at Mount Washington, where he was defeated by the
French under M. Coulon de Villers; previous to this, Washington had met
a detachment of French soldiers under M. Coulon de Jumonville, in which
Jumonville was killed, grave marked by tablet; first blood shed in
French and Indian War.
In 1755 Major General Edward Braddock’s expedition against Fort Duquesne
followed Nemacolin’s trail to Mount Braddock, thence over Catawba trail,
which enters Fayette County at mouth of Dunkards Creek; northward
through Uniontown, crossing the Youghiogheny (Stewarts Crossing) at
Connellsville, on through Mount Pleasant to Westmoreland County,
Hunkers, Circleville, to McKeesport; crossing the Monongahela, then
recrossing below at mouth of Turtle Creek. General Braddock, mortally
wounded in the battle of the Monongahela, was carried back over the road
he had opened to a point on the Cumberland Road, National Pike, where
he died and was buried; Washington read the Episcopal burial service
over him; grave marked by monument, erected by officers of his old
regiment, the “Coldstream Guards of England.” Braddock’s Road became the
main highway for settlers of Southwest Pennsylvania and Kentucky; the
entire course is full of historic interest; sites of encampments,
blockhouses and Indian forts; some are marked.
UNIONTOWN, county seat, formed, 1776; population 15,692. Courthouse,
Italian Renaissance; stone; architects, E. M. Butz and William Kauffman,
Pittsburgh. Presbyterian Church has fine Tiffany windows. Mr. James
Hadden, the historian of Fayette County, has a life-size bust of
Washington, cut by himself from the wood of a wild cherry tree, which
grew within the lines of Fort Necessity, in 1784. Washington owned the
land on which the tree stood. Two miles south is Fort Gaddis, only
frontier or settlers’ fort now standing in Fayette County, marked by
tablet in 1908; there were sixteen such forts in this county, built of
heavy logs, making durable houses for the frontiersmen, and safe retreat
for neighboring settlers.
CONNELLSVILLE; population 13,804. On grounds of the Carnegie Free
Library is a bronze statue of Colonel William Crawford, pioneer and
patriot, who, in 1765, built the first cabin home within limits of
Connellsville; killed by Indians in 1782; sculptor, Charles S.
Kilpatrick; tablet on base placed by Pennsylvania Historical Commission.
Trinity Lutheran Church, Italian Renaissance; native white sandstone,
trimmed with Indiana limestone; built, 1911; contains copy of
Bougereau’s “Resurrection.” In the tower is chime of twelve bells.
Architect, J. C. Fulton, Uniontown.
Lafayette was entertained, in 1825, at “Friendship Hill” near New
Geneva, the home of Albert Gallatin, member of Congress, Minister
Plenipotentiary from the United States to two courts of Europe, signer
of the Treaty of Ghent, Secretary of the Treasury in Jefferson’s and
Madison’s administrations; the house was built, 1789, enlarged, 1882,
and with the estate of seven hundred acres, is still of great beauty;
Albert Gallatin’s library remains just as he left it, on a high
eminence, overlooking the Monongahela River, on the edge of a precipice
three hundred feet above the river, the view is said to be similar to
that from Heidelberg Castle; the main entrance is near the old
Morgantown Road, an historic highway.
[Illustration: FRANKLIN COUNTY]
XIV
FRANKLIN COUNTY
Formed September 9, 1784; named for Benjamin Franklin, whose fame was
then world-wide. Earliest settlers Scotch-Irish, later Germans. Chief
industry agriculture, the land east is limestone and very fertile; west,
slate lands prevail, abounding in pure streams and rich meadows; the
Conococheague and Conodoquinet Creeks drain the central part of the
county, they are crossed by many stone arch bridges of graceful
architecture, the most notable is at Hiester’s Mill, three arches. The
principal road, now part of the Lincoln Highway, enters the county near
the historic Thaddeus Stevens Iron Works, built, 1837, at Caledonia,
which comprised about 20,000 acres, now in State Forestry Reservation,
and with the Mont Alto tract, makes a total of about 40,000 acres; the
mill and machinery were entirely destroyed, in 1863, by order of General
Early, on account of Stevens’ well-known activity as an abolitionist;
this road was route of greater part of Lee’s Army to and from the
battlefield of Gettysburg to Chambersburg; site of encampment before the
battle, a little beyond the hospital, east from Chambersburg. Other
roads leading west, of historic interest, are the Two Mountain, and the
Path Valley, formerly Indian trails.
County seat, CHAMBERSBURG, settled, 1764, population 13,171. In Centre
Square is a boulder with tablet commemorating the burning of
Chambersburg by Confederate Cavalry, July 1, 1864. Facing the square
are the brick courthouse, Southern colonial with fluted columns, cupola
and clock, contains portraits of judges; and the Central Presbyterian
Church, with Tiffany windows. Near are, Miller’s drug store on site of
Jack Tavern, where the first court was held in 1784, large mortar in
front was made from one of the pillars of the burned courthouse. United
States Post Office, Main and King Streets, built, 1912, semi-classic,
light colonial brick with gray stone facing. Masonic temple, built,
1823, saved by Confederate Masons when the town was burned. Zion
Reformed Church, built, 1812, exterior unchanged, particularly good
lines in steeple, has Tiffany windows. On King Street stands the house
John Brown occupied, second from Union Baptist Church; Nicklas store, on
Main Street near Queen, is site of old tavern where President Washington
and Alexander Hamilton spent the night, _en route_ to quell the Whiskey
Insurrection in 1794; Market House, Second and Queen Streets, built,
1830, brick, colonial, with clock tower.
WILSON COLLEGE comprises seven buildings, including Thompson Memorial
Hall, built, 1904, modified Gothic, with auditorium and fine organ,
architect, George C. Baum, Philadelphia. Falling Spring Presbyterian
Church and Chapel, organized, 1736, services first held in Benjamin
Chamber’s sawmill, present church built, 1803, chapel, 1873, native
stone, has Tiffany memorial windows to Judge and Mrs. Alexander Thomson,
parents of Frank Thomson, Esq. Rocky Spring Presbyterian Church, four
miles northwest from Chambersburg, built, 1794 by the Scotch-Irish,
colonial, with high, straight-backed pews, and original old high pulpit,
with sounding board, pewter Communion service from England and ten-plate
stoves. Dr. McIntosh preached here; has an interesting old graveyard,
keys kept at adjoining farmhouse.
The “MONT ALTO PARK,” formerly a famous picnic ground, now in charge of
State Forestry Commission, in the South Mountain, in old maps named “The
Valley of a Thousand Springs,” contains an old Protestant Episcopal
Church, near which is a native boulder, with granite tablet, marking the
place where Captain John E. Cook, of John Brown’s Army of Liberation,
was captured and disarmed, October 25, 1859, erected by the Kittochtinny
Historical Society, 1909. The STATE FOREST ACADEMY is here, where the
state educates its foresters, free of all cost; in 1900, the Bureau of
Forestry had grown to the point where it should be raised to the rank of
a department, of which the chief should be a member of the Governor’s
cabinet; there was strenuous opposition, but owing to the flood of
letters received by members of the Legislature, from the women of the
State Federated Clubs, the change was made, and Pennsylvania takes a
commanding place in the Forestry and Conservation movement. The WHITE
PINE, STATE SANATORIUM, NO. 1, free for consumptives, is also here, one
of the largest in the world. South is WAYNESBORO; good roads and notably
fine scenery in this section.
GREENCASTLE, birthplace of Robert McClelland in 1807, see Honor Roll;
directly north, on State Road, is monument, to mark where Corporal
William H. Rhil fell, first soldier killed on Northern soil in Civil
War.
MERCERSBURG, settled between 1730-35, population 1663; named for General
Hugh Mercer, who was killed in the Battle of Princeton. Mercersburg
Academy, Main Hall, built, 1833, used as hospital for wounded soldiers,
on retreat from Gettysburg, is a notable example of Southern colonial
architecture, with fine pillars and surmounted by a cupola; the ’88
Dormitory, given largely by class of 1888 of Princeton University, is
Tudor Gothic, brick and white stone; Kiel Hall, the refectory, interior,
baronial Gothic with frescoes and hangings by Tiffany; over mantel, in
wood, carved by John J. Maene, is “The Boar Hunt” from design by A.
Stirling Calder; notable collection of University shields in glass and
wood; mosaic armorial design in hearth; Laucks Hall, Tudor Gothic, has
mural painting in trophy room, “The Victor,” representing a Mercersburg
boy being crowned victor in athletic skill, artist, Edward Howland
Blashfield, also collection of portraits of distinguished men, including
President James Buchanan, Thomas A. Scott, and W. M. Irvine, by William
Merritt Chase; Dr. E. E. Highbee, by Carroll Beckwith; and Dr. Thomas
Apple by John W. Alexander; the new gymnasium, architect, Frank Miles
Day, has stained glass by Tiffany.
Historic houses on Main Street, one in which Harriet Lane Johnston was
born, built, 1788, by Colonel Robert Parker, friend of Lafayette, has
interesting interior woodwork; and residence of Dr. William Magaw, who
dressed Lafayette’s wounds after the battle of Brandywine, grounds now
in campus of Academy. Near Mercersburg, Irwinton Mills, a picturesque
spot on the west branch of the Conococheague,
[Illustration: THE VICTOR
In trophy room of the Mercersburg Academy
_Painted by Edwin H. Blashfield_]
birthplace of Jane and Elizabeth Irwin, who were married to the Harrison
brothers; Jane was mistress of the White House in 1841, Elizabeth became
the mother of President Benjamin Harrison. East of town, birthplace of
William Findlay, see Honor Roll. President James Buchanan was born at
Cove Gap, three miles from Mercersburg, birthplace marked by monument
erected by will of his niece, Harriet Lane Johnston; the house was later
removed to Lafayette Street, Mercersburg.
The famous Packer’s Path, used by pack horses, leads from Stony Batter
across the mountains to Pittsburgh. Site of Fort McCord, near Yankee
Gap, at North Mountain is where twenty-seven pioneer settlers were
massacred or carried into captivity by Indians in 1756, and thirty-two
provincial soldiers killed or wounded in their effort at rescue; marked
by native stone monument 1914, erected by the Enoch Brown Association,
and Pennsylvania Historical Commission. Northeast is the Enoch Brown
Park, with monument sacred to the memory of Enoch Brown and eleven
scholars massacred by Indians here in 1764, during the Pontiac War.
Large collection of Indian curios found near here are owned by Benjamin
Snively, Jr. South, is site of Fort Loudoun, marked.
Natives of Franklin County, in the World’s Honor Roll are, Samuel Adams,
Senator from Mississippi; George Washington Buchanan, United States
District Attorney for Dakota; James Buchanan, 1791-1868, schoolboy in
Mercersburg, lawyer, member of the legislature and of congress, Minister
to Russia, member of United States Senate, Secretary of State, Minister
to Great Britain, fifteenth president of the United States; Edmund R.
Calhoun, Rear Admiral, United States Navy; Hugh S. Campbell, United
States District Attorney for Dakota; George Chambers, 1786-1866, Judge
of the Supreme Court of Pennsylvania; Matthew St. Clair Clark, Clerk of
the United States House of Representatives; Colonel Thomas Hartley
Crawford, Judge of the United States Court, District of Columbia, and
Commissioner for Indian Affairs; George Eyster, Assistant United States
Treasurer at Philadelphia; William Findlay, 1768-1846, State Treasurer,
United States Senator, Governor, Assistant United States Treasurer at
Philadelphia; Henry Harbaugh, 1817-67, theologian, poet, hymn-writer;
Robert Johnston, Collector of Excise, appointed by President Washington;
John Maclay, member of the convention at Carpenters’ Hall; Samuel
Maclay, United States Senator; William Maclay, first United States
Senator from Pennsylvania, died, 1825; Robert McClelland, United States
Secretary of the Interior, Governor of Michigan; James McLane, Member of
the Supreme Executive Council and of the Pennsylvania Council of
Censors, member of the convention at Carpenters’ Hall; John Williamson
Nevin, 1803-86, President of Franklin and Marshall College, theologian,
author, preacher; William M. Nevin, 1806-92, poet, teacher; James
Potter, Major General of the Continental Army; John Rowe,
Surveyor-General of Pennsylvania; Thomas A. Scott, Assistant Secretary
of War, President Pennsylvania Railroad; Frank Thomson, President
Pennsylvania Railroad; Joseph Williams, Chief Justice of the Supreme
Court of Iowa.
XV
MONTGOMERY COUNTY
Formed September 10, 1784; named in honor of General Richard Montgomery;
ranks third in state as to amount of money at interest paying state tax;
notable for fine suburban residences and for Washington’s itinerary and
Camp at Valley Forge, with 11,098 men. The Valley Forge Park Commission
acquired, in 1893, 472 acres, partly in Chester County, to maintain and
preserve forever the Revolutionary camp ground; American army here from
December 19, 1777, to June 19, 1778; soldiers built their huts 16 × 14
feet by 6½ feet high, each to accommodate twelve men, and bore their
sufferings from cold, starvation, and sickness like heroes; facts of
interest are:
Baron von Steuben came from Germany with his secretary, Peter S. Du
Ponceau, after having served as aide-de-camp to Frederick the Great; he
was appointed inspector general of the American army, and gave them
military training and discipline; Mrs. Washington came to Valley Forge
February 27, 1778; on May 18, a detachment under Marquis de Lafayette
moved to Barren Hill, but the British came in force against them, and
they retreated over Matson’s ford, Conshohocken, on a bridge of rafts;
on June 18, British evacuated Philadelphia, June 19, Washington and army
left Valley Forge in pursuit.
A marker is placed where General Sullivan and soldiers built a bridge
across the Schuylkill in 1778;
[Illustration: MONTGOMERY COUNTY]
redoubts and intrenchments have been restored; every point of interest
has been marked with granite tablets by various historical societies,
and by the states whose sons suffered here; bronze equestrian statue of
General Anthony Wayne, sculptor, H. K. Bush-Brown, made, 1908, marks
site of cantonment of his troops; near this is replica of a brigade
hospital, a soldier’s hut; and the bronze statue of General Friederich
Wilhelm von Steuben, granite pedestal with bronze relief; sculptor, J.
Otto Schweizer, erected, 1915, by National German-American Alliance.
National Memorial Arch, one of the most beautiful structures of its
kind, granite, designed by Paul P. Cret, was erected by the United
States Government in 1914, as a tribute to General Washington and his
regiments.
Washington’s headquarters (home of Isaac Potts), open daily, 8 A.M. to 6
P.M., is arranged as when he occupied it; Washington Inn was used as
army bakery during encampment, ovens in basement, originally home of
Colonel William Dewees, sheriff of Philadelphia, and owner, with John
Potts, of the forge; the Star Redoubt; the Defenders’ Gate; Cemetery;
and View from observatory on Mount Joy are interesting; Museum of
American History contains rare relics of Washington and the war.
Washington Memorial Protestant Episcopal chapel, and the Cloister of the
Colonies, in which each of the thirteen colonies will be represented by
a bay, in the center of each is the colonial seal in brass; ceiling,
hand carved oak, in the central boss of each, the state coat of arms;
the Cloister incloses the Garth in which is a bronze statue, “Sacrifice
and Devotion,” by Bela Pratt, in honor of the mothers of the nation;
the porch gates were wrought by Samuel Yellin, hammered in the iron are
the symbols of the four Evangelists, the lock has a miniature Liberty
Bell as a keeper, and the sliding bolt passes through the knapsack of a
Continental soldier, guarding the lock; windows in the chapel from
D’Ascenzo Studios. Waterman Monument marks the grave of only identified
soldier buried here.
Across the Schuylkill is Fat Land built by James Vaux; Washington slept
here September 21, 1777; the next day, Sir William Howe came here and
almost caught him. At Port Kennedy, one and one-half miles east of
Valley Forge, prehistoric bones of sabretooth tigers and extinct animals
are found. West of Valley Forge, Mill Grove, built, 1762, still
standing, residence of John James Audubon; here he studied, painted, and
wrote about “Birds of America” that have made him world-famous. Near, at
the mouth of Perkiomen Creek, Washington’s army encamped at Richardson’s
Ford, September 21, after marching all night, wet breast-high, and
hungry, one thousand men without shoes. Howe moved on west of Schuylkill
toward Reading, the depot of American supplies, having burned buildings
at Valley Forge on his way, and reached Phœnixville, Fountain Inn.
Washington marched his troops to Upper Hanover, within four miles of
Pottstown; his headquarters was residence of John Potts, built 1753; and
sent General Wayne with fifteen hundred men to harass the rear of
British army under General Gray, but they were outnumbered by the
British, and massacred at Paoli; marked by two monuments.
[Illustration: PERKIOMEN BRIDGE, BUILT 1798, COLLEGEVILLE
_Photograph by Fred P. Powers_]
POTTSTOWN, founded by John Potts, population 17,431; noted for its iron
industries since 1716; Mill Park Hotel, built, 1752, for residence of
founder, who was visited here by Washington. Friends Meeting House,
built, 1752, ground given by John Potts; he also gave ground for Zion
Lutheran Church, Georgian, 1753. Residences of founder’s three sons, Dr.
Jonathan Potts, Director General of Hospitals, Northern Department, in
the Revolutionary War, “Stowe,” west of Pottstown; Samuel Potts, east of
Pottstown, now “Hill School”; John Potts, Jr., a Tory judge, corner of
High and Hanover Streets, center of town, later, residence of General
Arthur St. Clair; Daughters of the American Revolution tablet on side.
Emmanuel Lutheran Church, architects, Lechman & Murphy, windows from
D’Ascenzo Studios; Christ Protestant Episcopal Church, Gothic;
brownstone; good memorial windows; was received in Convention in 1827;
Pottstown Hospital is controlled by Board of Women Managers, also the
Library, in which art exhibitions are shown.