largest in that archipelago, being about thirty miles in length and
fifteen in breadth. It is composed of innumerable hills in every variety
of form, such as cones, saddles, and tables. Most of these hills have
forts built on their summits. From these, lights were displayed every
evening, and it was astonishing the rapidity with which these signals
were answered. I have seen the whole coast illuminated in less than five
minutes, each hill appearing like a little volcano, suddenly bursting
out. As soon as the boats had surveyed this part of the island, we
shifted the ship to where the survey was being carried on; and this we
continued to do during the whole time that we were employed in the
survey, the boats returning on board every night. Good anchorage is to
be obtained all round the island. Innumerable forts and batteries are
built along the coast; every rising ground being surmounted with one,
although the major portion of them were not supplied with guns. We found
as we coasted along that all the forts were manned, the people being
armed with matchlocks, spears, and arrows. On several occasions they
fired their matchlocks, and the salute was returned by the 6-pounders in
the barges, which never failed of putting them to flight. In the centre
of the island the land runs to an enormous height, and terminates in a
sharp peak, which, in consequence of its always having been enveloped
with clouds, we did not see till several days after our arrival.
At last we arrived at the principal town, which is situated on the
western side of the island. The town was inclosed with thick walls,
higher than we had observed before as we coasted along. These walls form
a square, each side of which is about half a mile in length, and has
batteries, parapets, and embrasures. In some of the latter there were
guns, which were occasionally fired. The whole ground before the town,
for the distance of a mile and a half, was crowded with people; but if
they waited for our landing they were disappointed, as the captain would
not land. They gave us two bullocks, which were put into the barge, as
the ship was then ten or twelve miles off. The mandarins used every
argument to persuade the captain to come on shore and visit the chiefs
of the island; but, as we had but twenty men in the boats, he refused to
trust himself among eight or ten thousand whose intentions were any
thing but satisfactory. However, he promised that he would come on shore
on the following day, but that at present he was obliged to visit a
point of the bay to obtain observations before sunset. We now prepared
to move in the barge, but found ourselves encompassed by twelve or
fourteen large boats, fastened to each other by strong ropes. We desired
them to make a passage, but they either did not, or would not,
understand us. This looked very much like treachery, and decided
measures were become requisite: the nearest boats were boarded, and the
crews made to cut their ropes. Some of them appeared inclined to resist,
but a smart stroke of the cutlass put their courage to flight. This
affair took place within twenty yards of the beach, and in sight of
10,000 people on the shore. We now being clear, pulled for the point and
secured our station. A great crowd collected around us while we were
observing; the chiefs expressed a wish, in a peremptory sort of way,
that the officers should partake of some refreshment at a short distance
from the beach. This the captain, who suspected treachery, refused, and
as we were going near to our boats, some of the natives laid violent
hands upon our men, but having received from them a few specimens of our
method of boxing, they soon quitted their hold. The Chinese interpreter
was now missing; our men in consequence procured their arms, and
landing, a strict search was made for him. He was found some little
distance on land, having been enticed away by one of the chiefs, who
was plying him with sam-schoo. On his way to return they forcibly
detained him, and were in the act of conveying him away, when the
appearance of the armed party from the boat surprised them, and they
hastened to convey their own persons out of reach of our bayonets. It
was not, however, our intention, or our policy, to commence hostilities,
only to show them that we would not be trifled with.
We returned from the point to the beach before the town, when the boat's
guns were loaded with round and grape, and pointed at the crowd
assembled, in case of any further treachery. The captain then landed
with the small armed party, all ready for resistance.
Music was now heard in the distance, and soon afterwards one of the
principal chiefs arrived, walking beneath a silken canopy. He was
attended by two young lads and a band of spearmen, who prevented the mob
from approaching too close to his highness's person. The multitude
shouted, and bowed their heads to the ground as the chief passed them;
the latter took no notice of their acclamations, but advanced in a very
stately dignified manner towards the captain, apparently keeping time to
the music, which was played by a band of men, dressed in a very
fantastic manner, on cymbals and instruments resembling our clarionets.
The negotiations were now opened: the captain expressed his surprise and
disgust at the treatment he had experienced at the point, where he had
been taking observations. The chief inquired of the captain, in reply,
why he did not shoot the offenders? and assured him that, if the next
time he was annoyed by the rabble he would shoot a few of them, it would
have a very salutary effect upon the remainder. In the course of
conversation, the captain informed the mandarin that England possessed
ships carrying 120 guns of larger caliber than those on board of the
vessel he commanded; and that altogether, including large and small,
the Queen of England had 800 vessels. This account was evidently
discredited, as it always was when such an assertion was made in those
seas, for looking round him and explaining the nature of the
communication to his followers, they all laughed. Asang, the
interpreter, then gave them a history of the Chinese war, on which he
dwelt upon our immense resources, the size and number of our vessels,
and the fire ships (steamers) which we had employed; but it was evident
that the Quelpartians did not believe one word of his assertions. Before
the conference was over, rice, cakes, and sam-schoo were handed round,
and the captain promised that he would visit the chief mandarin on the
following day. By this time, the ship had come to an anchor in the bay,
and we returned on board.
The next morning we got the ship under weigh, and brought her nearer to
the town, so that her guns could be brought to bear in case of need; but
when within 100 yards of the shore, and in the act of going about, the
ship struck with great violence against a rock. Hawsers were laid out,
and with our usual good fortune, we again got into deep water, and in
half an hour anchored off the town in a favourable position for
cannonading it. We then landed our force, consisting of all the marines,
with the drummer and fiddler, besides a party of small-arm men from the
blue jackets, all armed with muskets, bayonets, and cutlasses. The
officers, in addition to their swords, carried pistols in their belts. A
feu-de-joie was now fired, for the double purpose of creating an awe
among the crowd, and ascertaining that all the muskets were in good
order; for the mandarin resided some miles from the beach, and in case
of attack we must have fought hard to regain our boats and the
protection of the ship's guns. All being ready, the drummer and fiddler
struck up a lively air, and we commenced our march towards the
mandarin's house, the officers being accommodated with horses. After
passing over a morass, the waters of which ran sluggishly through the
arches of a bridge, connecting the suburbs with the city, we ascended a
rocky eminence, from the summit of which we had a bird's eye view of the
city, and some portion of the interior. We observed that the ramparts of
the city were lined with people. Our train was nearly a mile in length,
although the natives were walking ten or twelve abreast. Immediately
after our party came the band of the natives, dressed in russet-coloured
cloth, with shawls of the same material; after them the mandarin,
followed by above 200 soldiers, a dense mob bringing up the rear, with
flags and banners displayed.
On the inland side of us was an immense plain, bounded in the distance
by high mountains, whose tops were enveloped in clouds. This plain was
mostly cultivated; that portion of it which was barren had been
appropriated to burial grounds, several of which we passed through. At
the head of the graves were stone figures intending to represent human
beings, but Chantry had not been employed. At length, having walked
round two-thirds of the walls, we entered a defile, leading to one of
the gates of the city, but to our surprise, when we arrived at the gate,
we found that it was locked, and when the cause was demanded, we were
informed that the mandarin refused to allow the soldiers to enter, but
that the officers would be admitted alone. This communication greatly
irritated the captain, and our position caused us some uneasiness. We
were inclosed within two high walls in a narrow lane, our advance
prevented by the locked up gate, and our retreat must be through
thousands who had formed the cavalcade, and were now in our rear. Our
only passage was through this multitude, and I hardly need say that we
were convinced of the treachery of the people. However, there was no
time to be lost: the word was given, the marines formed a front line,
cocked their muskets, and then brought them to the charge bayonets; and
in this way, the crowd retreating before us, we forced our way back,
until we were again clear of the high walls which had flanked us; but
our position even then was not pleasant. We had to pass the fort and
several encampments before we could arrive at the beach, which was at
least four miles distant. However, we put a good face on the matter, and
forcibly detaining one of the mandarins upon the pretence that he must
show us the way back, with the threat, that upon the slightest
molestation on the part of his countrymen, we would blow his brains out,
we commenced our march back to the beach, our two musicians playing with
great energy, "Go to the devil and shake yourselves," which tune, struck
up upon their own suggestion, was the occasion of great laughter among
our party. At last we reached the beach without opposition, and the
mandarin, who was terribly alarmed, was released.
When we arrived, the chiefs attempted to throw all the blame upon the
head mandarin, but the captain would no longer stand their humbug. He
replied to them, that if any of their principal men had visited the ship
they would have been treated with respect and kindness, and that the
number of their armed retainers would have made no difference in their
reception; that he considered them as faithless in all their
protestations of good-will, and from thenceforth he should place no
reliance on any thing that they said; that for the future he would act
as he thought proper without consulting them, and that he would shoot
any one who attempted to interfere with him. We then got into the boats
and returned on board, where we heard that the cutter's crew had been
compelled to kill or wound some of the natives, who had come down in a
body and attacked one of the men with fire-brands. The cutter was at
anchor a short distance from the shore; on the natives approaching they
seized their muskets, but did not fire until their shipmate was in
danger of his life. Two of the natives had fallen and had been carried
off by their comrades.
[Illustration: QUELPARTIANS.
F. M. DELT.
M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS
LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848]
The Quelpartians cultivate paddy (from which they distil their
sam-schoo), sweet potatoes, and radishes, which, with shell-fish, form
the principal articles of food with the lower classes. Pigs, bullocks,
and fowls appeared to be plentiful, although we obtained but few. All
their towns are enclosed with a stone wall; the houses are also built of
stone, and mostly tiled with a species of red slate; but we had few
opportunities of inspecting them, as the natives kept so strict a watch
upon us, and so outnumbered us. These Coreans presented a strong
contrast to the Loo Chooans, who are so polite in their manner and kind
in their demeanour. These Quelpartians, on the contrary, are very
unprepossessing in their appearance, rude and boisterous in their
manner, and of very gross habits. They insisted upon feeling and
inspecting every article of our clothing, even baring our breasts to
ascertain their colour, and in many other respects proving themselves
very annoying. This was submitted to at first, with the hope of securing
their good-will, but afterwards very decided measures were taken to
repulse these dirty wretches, whose clothes smelt most offensively. They
have the high cheek bone and elongated eye of the Tartar, or northern
Chinese, from whom I am inclined to think they are descended. The crown
of the head is closely shaved, leaving a circle of long hair, which is
tied in a knot on the top of the skull (similar to the people of Loo
Choo), but without any ornament. Round the forehead is fastened a
bandanna, about four inches in width, resembling fine net-work in
texture, but it is made with horsehair. This is used to keep the hair in
its proper position. But the most singular part of their costume is the
hat, which is made of the same materials as the fillets: the brim is
about four feet in width, and this gives to the wearer a very grotesque
appearance. The crown in shape resembles a sugar-loaf with the top cut
off, and is very small in diameter. It admits the top-knot of hair, and
nothing more.
[Illustration: MANDARIN OF QUELPART.
(COREA.)
F. M. DELT.
M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS
LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848]
The lower orders generally wear a felt hat, but of the same dimensions
and shape. The hats of the mandarins are secured on their heads by
strings of amber beads and large ivory balls, and then passed under the
chin. Rank is denoted by the peacock's feather in the hat. The army are
distinguished by a tuft of red horsehair stuck in the crown. The
respectable part of the inhabitants have several garments; the outer
ones are of various colours, but the cut of them extends to all ranks. I
can liken it to nothing but a long pinbefore, slit up in front, behind,
and at the two sides. Under this they wear other garments, the texture
and quality of which, as well as quantity, depend upon the wealth of the
wearer. The sleeves of their dresses are wide and long. In spite of
their thick mustachios and long flowing beards, they have the appearance
of a very effeminate people.
One evening we saw a large turtle asleep as we pulled along the coast. A
Sandwich Islander, belonging to the gig's crew, went in the water and
turned him, holding him in this position till a rope was made fast to
him, and he was secured. At night we landed on a small island, and we
cooked our prize for our supper. I mention it as a proof of the man's
dexterity.
Completed our survey of the Quelpart, and stood to the N. E. The next
morning we found ourselves close to a labyrinth of islands, not laid
down on any chart. The captain named the group after the ship; and,
having in three days completed the survey of them, we stood further to
the northward and eastward. It would be tedious to detail our surveying
operations. We saw the main land of Corea, but did not go on shore; and
our provisions getting low, we bore all for the southward. After calling
again at Quelpart, where we remained a few days, we made sail for
Nangasaki, a seaport town in the empire of Japan.
We were some distance in the offing in sight of the town of Nangasaki,
when several boats, gaily decorated with flags of various shades and
colours, came out to meet the ship and accompany us to the anchorage.
One of them brought a letter, written in mingled Dutch and French,
inquiring from whence and why we came. The bearer, who was a great man
in authority, desired the captain to anchor immediately; but this the
captain refused, telling him that he should anchor his ship when and
where he pleased. We afterwards discovered that these were all
government boats, and that they were always placed as a guard upon any
ship which visited Nangasaki.
[Illustration: JAPANESE BOAT.]
The crews were all dressed alike, in chequered blue and white cotton
dresses; the boats are propelled with sculls used as oars, the men
keeping time to a monotonous song. Forts, or rather the ghosts of
forts, appeared as if raised by magic; they were easily distinguished
to be formed out of immense screens of coloured cotton, and they were
surrounded by flags and pennons. Although not effective, their effect
was good at a distance.
[Illustration: JAPANESE.
F. M. DELT.
M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS
LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848]
In the evening, a large assembly of the principal men visited the ship;
they wore very loose jackets and trowsers. The jackets reached no lower
than the hips, where they were confined by a silk or silver girdle,
containing two swords, one somewhat larger than the other. The handles
and sheaths of their swords were beautifully inlaid with copper, and
japanned in a very peculiar manner. They were very curious to know the
name and use of every article which excited their attention, and we were
much surprised at their display of so much theoretical knowledge. They
particularly admired the touch-hole of our guns, which are fired with
the detonating tube. The properties of the elevating screws were
minutely examined; and we were inclined to believe that many of our
visitors were artificers, sent on board to examine and make notes of
every thing new.
The Samarang was the first British man-of-war which had visited Nagasaki
since the Phaeton, in 1808. The day after our arrival the chiefs sent
off a present of pigs, fowls, and vegetables, but would receive nothing
in return.
I accompanied the master to a small island, to make observations.
Several of the great men desired us to return to the ship, but we
refused. They appeared greatly annoyed, and drew their hands across
their throats, intimating that their heads would be forfeited for their
breach of duty. However, seeing that we were determined to remain, they
made a virtue of necessity, and consoled themselves by examining our
instruments. A laughable occurrence took place while we were on shore.
The cutter was at anchor about ten yards from the beach. Two of the crew
having an argument, one of them drew his bayonet, and made a lunge at
the other in jest. Observing the natives looking on with amazement, and
fancying that the men were engaged in deadly fray, it drew our attention
to the scene. They no doubt came to the conclusion that we must be a
desperate set of fellows, and killed one another upon the slightest
provocation. At all events, this little incident appeared to have a very
good effect, as the natives, who had continually been interfering with
our observations, now left us, not wishing to be so near to people who
were so prone to mischief.
During the whole night we were surrounded by a squadron of boats, which,
with lanterns lighted, and drums beating, continually moved round the
ship, to intercept any boat leaving it. The captain, finding that the
suspicious character of the Japanese would prevent any thing like
correct surveying, which was the principal object of his visit to
Nagasaki, determined upon leaving this inhospitable shore of Japan as
soon as possible.
On Sunday the 6th, we weighed, and although the weather was
unfavourable, contrived to work out of soundings until 3 P. M., when we
made sail for Loo-Choo. At daylight we found ourselves abreast of a
burning volcano. Dense clouds of smoke were issuing from a peaked
island, about three miles distant. We soon afterwards landed upon an
adjacent island, which, to our surprise, also began to smoke.
The day was sultry, and without a breath of air, so that in a short
time, the atmosphere we were in became overpowering; at last a fresh
breeze sprang up, and the disagreeable sensation wore off. The whole of
the islands between Loo-Choo and Japan appear to be volcanic, and at
certain seasons of the year they break out in a similar manner to those
which we saw. At noon the smoke from the large volcano became lurid; but
whether this was the breaking out into flame, or from the rays of the
sun pouring down upon the smoke, it was impossible to say, as we were
then several miles off. During the whole of the following night we were
becalmed, and during that time impelled, by a strong current, towards
the volcanic island. Strange noises were heard, and large columns of
smoke ascended from the crater, which, from there not being a breath of
air, soon enveloped it from our sight. On the following day we again
landed upon an island, some little distance to the southward of the
volcano, which now vomited flames, ashes, and smoke, during the whole
day. The master landed on another of these volcanic islands, but the
showers of ashes and suffocating atmosphere soon drove him away.
The captain had finished his observations on the first island where we
landed, and we prepared to return on board. Since the morning the swell
had got up considerably, causing the surf to break heavily on the rocks.
However, the instruments were safely embarked in the boat; but while the
captain was waiting for an opportunity to get in, a surf drove the boat
on a shelving rock, and suddenly receding, her stern was dropped so low,
while her bow remained fast, that she capsized. Although the officer and
men in the boat had to swim for their lives, and were much bruised by
being dashed against the rocks by the succeeding surf, fortunately no
lives were lost; but all the instruments, to the value of about 150l.,
went to the bottom, and, no doubt, have since the accident very much
puzzled the sharks as to their use, as they often had done the natives
of those seas. A signal was hoisted on the summit of the island for the
ship to send boats to assist, and, on their arrival, the gig was baled
out, and by sunset we were again on board.
August 18th.--Exchanged numbers with her Majesty's ship Royalist, which
was anchored in Napa Kiang harbour (Loo-Choo). At 3 P. M., we anchored
alongside of her, impatiently expecting letters by her, and we were not
a little depressed at being disappointed. Still we had one comfort,
which was that, instead of having brought us, as we expected, three
months' provisions, to enable us to continue our survey, she had only
fourteen days' provisions for us, which was not more than sufficient to
carry us back to Hong Kong. Many and various were the surmises that this
recall and alteration of our planned employment gave us; the most
prevailing one was that our orders from England were at Hong Kong.
Others supposed that the ship would be hove down, and subsequently
condemned; but the rejoicing was universal at the idea that there would
be some speedy end to our hardships and vexations.