arrived on the following day. There we found the Agincourt, Sir Thomas
Cochrane, who was now commander-in-chief, Sir William Parker having
sailed for England. The cutter and two of the Company's steamers were
also here; and the Minden hospital ship, as usual, crowded with the
sick and dying. Our first lieutenant, Mr. Wade, took this opportunity of
leaving the ship, and Mr. Heard succeeded him.
On the 6th we sailed for Macao, which is too well known to require any
description here. On the 10th we sailed for Manilla, an account of which
I shall reserve for our future visit. On the 1st of April we again
sailed, on a surveying cruise, to the southward. After fixing the
positions of several small islands in the Mendoro Sea, we steered for
Samboangan, a Spanish penal colony, situated at the southern extremity
of Mindanao. On the 8th we arrived there, and took up our anchorage
close to the town.
Samboangan is built on an extensive plain; most of the houses are
supported on poles ten or twelve feet from the ground. The roofs are
thatched, and the sides covered with palm leaves, ingeniously secured by
strips of bamboo. The fort is well built; and although a century old, is
in very good preservation. It has a numerous garrison, and is defended
by guns of large calibre. There is also an establishment of gun-boats,
which scour the coast in search of pirates. On each side, and at the
back of the town, are groves of cocoa-nuts, bamboos, plantains, and
other fruit trees, through which narrow paths are cut, forming
delightful shady walks to a stranger, who gazes with astonishment and
pleasure upon the variety of delicious fruits, of whose existence he had
no idea. The plain on which the town is built extends about eight miles
inland, when it is bounded by a chain of mountains, which divides the
Spanish territory from that of the warlike tribes who inhabit the
interior.
The plain I have spoken of is covered with small villages, pleasantly
situated among thick groves of trees; and it is watered by numerous
streams. The whole country around Samboangan abounds in scenery of the
most picturesque description; and the groups of gaily-dressed and
joyous natives in no small degree add to the beauty of the landscape.
Horses can be obtained at very moderate charges; but unfortunately no
one has ever thought of establishing an hotel, and the want of one was
much felt. We were, therefore, thrown upon the hospitality and kindness
of the natives, who made us welcome by every demonstration in their
power. Fruit, chocolate, and sweet biscuits, were the ordinary
refreshments, for which the charges made scarcely repaid the trouble of
preparing them.
The church, priests' and governor's houses, are the only respectable
buildings in the colony; the other houses in the town are very inferior,
being inhabited by liberated exiles from Manilla. We remained here five
days, and early on the morning of the 13th ran down to a watering-place
about fifteen miles from the town, and completed our water.
The same night we sailed for Sooloo; and the next day, when performing
divine service, it being Sunday, the officer of the watch reported five
prahus in sight, full of men, and each armed with a long gun, pulling
towards the ship. It was quite calm at the time, and our main deck ports
were open. No doubt they perceived the daylight through the ports, and
satisfied themselves that we were a man-of-war, for they soon afterwards
altered their course, and made for the shore. We presumed that they were
pirates from the island of Baselan, who, fancying we were a merchant
vessel, had come out with the intention of attacking us.
At noon on the 16th of April we made the town of Sooloo, the capital of
the island of the same name. It being calm, and the ship at some
distance from the anchorage, the gig was sent ahead to board one of the
three schooners lying in the bay, and hoist a light, as a guide to the
ship; and a rocket was put into the boat to fire in case of being
attacked by superior numbers. There were but five men in the gig!
After two hours' hard pulling, they arrived alongside the largest of the
three vessels. She proved to be the Velocipede, an English vessel,
trading to Sooloo for pearl oysters. The owner of the schooner soon came
from the shore, having been sent off by the sultan of Sooloo to know the
object of our visit. He was accompanied by several Datus or chiefs, who
went back to the town perfectly satisfied with the explanation given.
But the arrival of a man-of-war appeared to excite the fears of the
natives, for gongs were sounding throughout the night, and lights were
flitting to and fro, by the aid of which it was perceived that there was
a strong assemblage of the natives.
The ship anchored on the afternoon of the following day, and the
captain, attended by several of his officers, visited the sultan. We
were received by the prime minister, who informed us that the sultan was
somewhat indisposed, and begged to postpone the interview until the
following day. Leaving the palace, we strolled through the town, which
is partly built in the water; bridges, formed of interlaced bamboo, were
the means of communication between the houses. As these bridges were
some hundred yards in length, the walking was somewhat dangerous; a slip
would have been the cause of a good ducking and a swim to any unlucky
wight, which, I have no doubt, would have given great satisfaction to
the townspeople, who, armed with spears, krisses, and shields, were
watching our motions; but no such mishap occurred, and we returned on
board before sunset. Next day the captain and the same party went again
on shore, and were received by the sultan in person. He was dressed in
the extreme of Malay fashion. He was an excessively plain young man, and
seemed to be ill at ease during the whole of the conference. He appeared
to be a mere puppet in the hands of his ferocious chiefs, who had all
the conversation, without referring to their royal master at any time.
The sultan's dress consisted of a purple satin jacket and green velvet
trousers, both trimmed with gold and silver lace; a red sash confined
his trousers at the waist; and in the sash he wore a kris of the most
costly description. He wore diamond buttons on his jacket, which, being
open, exposed his naked chest. But the party who mostly excited our
interest was the heir apparent, a child of four years old, who was
dressed as an adult, even to his miniature kris. He bids fair to be a
handsome man. His laughing face and engaging manner caused him to be
caressed by the whole party, a circumstance which evidently gave much
pleasure to the sultan. We were regaled with chocolate, sweet cakes, and
fruit; and every attention paid to us by the chiefs. At our departure
the sultan and ministers shook hands warmly with every one of our party,
and we returned on board, accompanied by Mr. Wyndham, of the Velocipede
schooner, who, being a perfect master of the tongue, had acted as an
interpreter on this occasion.
The Samarang was the first English man-of-war that had called at Sooloo
since the visit of Dalrymple in 1761, when he reinstated on the throne
the sultan (grandfather to the present one), who had been deposed by his
rebellious subjects.
Great Sooloo is about fifty miles in length, and twenty-five in breadth,
being the largest of a group of islands known as the Sooloo Archipelago.
This group of islands is inhabited by a fierce and warlike race, bearing
in their personal appearance a strong resemblance to the Malays,
although the two languages differ materially from each other. Great
Sooloo, the residence of the sultan, is very mountainous. Many of the
mountains are wooded to the summit, while others are covered with
patches of cultivation. These islands are thickly populated; and if the
islanders do not practise piracy as a profession, they are always ready
to aid, assist, and protect those who do. The town of Sooloo is well
known to be the principal rendezvous of pirates, who, whenever they
have made a capture, resort there to dispose of their lawless booty. The
ministers, and even the sultan himself, are not able to resist the
temptation of being able to purchase European goods, and articles of
value, for less than half their real value. If not the stealers, they
are the receivers, and thus they patronise piracy of every description.
Governed by their own prince, and independent of any other power, the
people of Sooloo have most extravagant notions of their own prowess, and
of the strength of their fortifications; and they ridicule the idea of
any one venturing to interfere with or attack them.
[Illustration: SOOLOO VILLAGE.]
On the 18th of April we sailed from Sooloo, and visited several islands
in the Archipelago, on one of which we grounded, but escaped without
sustaining any damage. On the 23rd we anchored off Unsang, the eastern
province of Borneo, where we remained four days surveying the coast. A
shooting and fishing party visited the shore daily: the former killed
several wild hogs, and the latter brought every evening a plentiful
supply of fish.
On the 27th of April sailed from Unsang. This day we first served out
our ship-brewed porter, in addition to the usual allowance of spirits.
It continued to be served out nightly, but opinions were very different
about its merits.
For several days after leaving Unsang, we had but little or no wind, and
we were borne away by a strong easterly current, till we were carried in
sight of Celebes, which is high and mountainous, and covered with dense
forests of gigantic trees. On Sunday, the 4th of May, we arrived off
Cape Rivers (Celebes), the position of which was determined by
astronomical observations. It was the intention of the captain to have
passed through the Straits of Macassar, but light wind, and a strong
current from the southward, would not permit us to gain a mile per day.
After experiencing very disagreeable weather while off the coast, we
bore up and made sail for Monado, a Dutch settlement on one of the
north-western promontories of this remarkably shaped island. Our passage
was any thing but agreeable; scarcely a night passed that we were not
visited by strong squalls, accompanied by thunder, lightning, and heavy
rain. On Sunday, the 18th, we anchored in forty-eight fathoms off the
town of Monado, within two cables' length of the shore, which shelves
very suddenly into deep water. A kedge was laid out in-shore of the
ship, and kept well taut; a requisite precaution, as otherwise, if the
land breeze blew off strong, the ship would have dragged her anchor down
the steep beach, and drifted out.
The town of Monado is built on a plain surrounded by mountains, the
highest of which, Klabat, is 6000 feet above the level of the sea. The
houses are well built, and neatly thatched; they are all detached, and
enclosed in a yard or garden. The roads are excellent, and reflect great
credit upon a Prussian engineer, who undertook the task. The fort, which
is at the water's edge, is small, but strongly built, and well adapted
to resist the attack of any native force, although I should imagine it
could not hold out any time against the well-directed fire of a
frigate's broadside. A party of us enjoyed a pleasant ramble through the
town and suburbs, which are dotted with neat cottages, where their
owners invited us to enter and partake of refreshments. We went into
several, and found them scrupulously neat and clean, as Dutch houses
usually are. The people who entertained us refused all compensation, and
it was with difficulty that we prevailed upon the black-eyed damsels to
accept our silk handkerchiefs by way of reminiscences. Very few
Europeans reside here, although their half-bred offspring may be seen in
every tenth person, and they boast of the European blood which flows in
their veins. Monado abounds with poultry, fruit, vegetables, and all the
necessaries of life. Cocoa and sugar are cultivated. Stock is easily
obtained, and very moderate; and water is procured from a small river
which divides the town. Boats should enter the river at last quarter
flood, and return first quarter ebb, as the tide falls rapidly; and at
low water the bar at the entrance is dry. During our stay we surveyed
the major portion of the bay, finding nothing under 150 fathoms of water
at one-third of a mile from the shore.
We found here a Mr. Hart, who had been left at this place in consequence
of his precarious state, from a gun-shot wound he had received on the
Coti River (Borneo). Mr. Hart was a volunteer in the ill-fated
expedition undertaken by Mr. Murray, who attempted to establish a
colony in the Coti River, and who lost his life in an encounter with the
natives. The vessels employed--a brig and a schooner--were fitting out
at Hong Kong while we were there. We fell in with the schooner (the
Young Queen) the day after we left Manilla. The captain of her came on
board to give us the intelligence of the failure of the expedition, with
the death of its leader. Misfortune appeared to cling to them, for, soon
after the schooner left Coti, the crew of her mutinied, and the mutiny
was not put down but by the death of the ringleader, who was shot by the
commander. He was bound to Hong Kong to deliver himself up for trial for
taking the life of the man, and I hardly need observe that he was fully
acquitted. This gentleman was a brother of Mr. Hart.
On the 26th of May, our observations being completed, we sailed from
Monado; Mr. Hart, with the captain's permission, taking advantage of
this opportunity of reaching Sincapore. The following day we ran through
the Straits of Banca, and steered for Ternate, off which island we
arrived on the following Saturday. On Sunday morning, before daylight,
we struck heavily on a coral reef, but by dint of great exertion we got
off, and floated at six. A boat was despatched to the Dutch governor of
the town to state that it was not our intention to anchor. The island of
Ternate is, I believe, governed by a sultan, who has sway over several
other islands. The Dutch have a settlement here, and have long been on
good terms with the ruling powers. It is the most important of the
Molucca group, as it produces a vast quantity of cloves, beside every
variety of tropical fruits. It was taken by us in 1810, and restored in
1815. This island, as far as I could judge, is perfectly round, and
about twenty-five miles in circuit, the land gradually rising to a huge
peak in the centre. It is of volcanic formation. It is well wooded, and
abounds with game; and on this island the boa constrictor grows to the
largest size, being often found upwards of thirty feet in length. The
Dutch town is built on the south-east side of the island. The houses
appear to be better constructed than those of Monado, and the whole town
better arranged. There are several forts, two churches, and apparently
about 400 houses. The one occupied by the governor is distinguished from
the others by its size, and superiority of architecture and decorations.
We obtained quantities of every description of fruit from the boats
which crowded round the ship: in addition to shaddocks, pineapples,
oranges, bananas, and many other common varieties, we had the delightful
treat of the mangosteins, which grow only in these latitudes. It is
impossible to describe the peculiarly grateful taste of this cool and
refreshing fruit. It is a mixture of the sweet and acid, blended in the
most luscious manner. It is in size somewhat smaller than an apple, and
the skin, which is very thick and bitter, of a dark plum colour. This
when dried is used as a remedy for the dysentery. The inside, which is
nearly white, is divided into four parts, resembling in substance a firm
jelly; and, in my opinion, gives one more the idea of what nectar was,
or ought to be, than any thing else which enters into the mouth of man.
We decided that the Peak of Ternate was the true Mount Olympus, and that
it was there that the gods were assembled and, in ancient days, ate
mangosteins, called nectar by the Greeks.
The boat which had been sent on shore to the governor at length
returned, and we made sail to the southward, to survey a portion of the
coast of Gilolo (another of the Spice Islands), which was supposed to be
laid down incorrectly in the charts.
On the morning of Monday, the 3rd of June, the ship being off the coast
of Gilolo, the gig with the captain, and the barge with several
officers, left the ship with four days' provisions to survey a portion
of the coast. At 11 A. M. they landed on a reef, running out about a
cable's length from a small island. About two in the afternoon a body of
natives, armed with spears and krisses, issued with loud yells from the
jungle, and advanced towards them. At the same time a prahu pulled round
a point, and made towards the barge, which was at anchor about fifty
yards from the shore. The captain was at the time on shore taking
observations, but as the natives approached he retired to the gig and
got the arms in readiness. The natives came within 100 yards of us, and
then halted. The captain signed them to go away: they approached nearer;
we gave them a volley, and they hastily retreated into the jungle.
The barge was now prepared for the expected attack of the prahu, which
by this time had approached within point blank range of the barge's gun,
which was a brass six-pounder. Observing, it is to be presumed, that the
boat was so well-armed, and the men were loading the gun, the prahu
ceased pulling, and hoisted Dutch colours. They were ordered to pull for
the Gilolo shore, which they did; a rocket fired at them quickening
their speed considerably. At 3 P. M. the observations being completed,
the astronomical instruments were re-embarked on the barge, and the
captain quitted the gig and went into the barge. Both boats were pulled
towards the main land. On the in-shore side of the small island I have
mentioned, we discovered a village consisting of fifteen or twenty
houses. The gig was despatched with two officers to burn the village,
which was done; the natives who were in the huts escaping into the
jungle. In the mean time, the barge proceeded towards a large village in
search of the prahu. On their way they fell in with a large canoe, at
anchor in one of the creeks.
Taking the canoe in tow, we again took to the oars, and in a short time
perceived the natives hauling the prahu into a creek. A round of grape
quickly decided the matter; the natives fled, and the prahu was quietly
taken possession of by our crew. Having effected our object, we
proceeded along the coast with our two prizes in tow. At sunset, after
rifling the boats of arms, flags, and gongs, we set them on fire, and
made sail to the southward; the gig, which had rejoined us, being in
company. About midnight we anchored in a small and lonely bay,--I should
say, twenty miles from where the above occurrences took place. We took
our meals, but did not attempt to repose till after two in the morning,
although we were quite tired after the events of the day before. We then
lay down, and composed ourselves to sleep.
We had not, however, been recumbent long, ere the sounds of gongs were
heard at a distance; and shortly afterwards the man on the look-out
reported that three prahus were coming into the bay. A short time
sufficed to have every thing in readiness for the expected conflict.
The foremost of the prahus approached within ten yards of the barge,
lowered her sail, and rounded to. A native, one of the chiefs we
presumed, inquired in broken English if we belonged to a ship. The
captain would not satisfy him on that point, but desired him to go away.
The other two prahus, having been joined by a third (making four in
all), had now closed within half pistol shot, and lowered their sails.
Seeing that we were completely enclosed, a musket-ball was fired over
the largest prahu. The men in the prahus gave their accustomed yell, and
the whole force advanced towards us.
The six-pounder, loaded with round and grape, was now fired into the
largest prahu; the cries and confusion were great; the crew of the prahu
leapt into the water, but few arrived on shore,--they sunk under the
fire of our muskets. The three other prahus then commenced a spirited
fire from their guns and small arms, assisted by a flight of arrows and
spears.
Pulling within twenty yards of them, we plied them alternately with
grape and canister from our six-pounder. The engagement continued with
great vigour for some time, when their fire slackened; and shortly
afterwards two more of the prahus were deserted by their crews, who made
for the shore; the fourth made off. The three prahus were taken
possession of, towed into deep water, and anchored. Leaving the gig in
charge of them, we went in pursuit of the fourth prahu, and soon came up
with her; but her crew escaped by running the boat on shore.
Another prahu now hove in sight, pulling, or rather paddling, towards
us. Leaving our prize, we faced our new antagonist, saluting her with
grape and musquetry, and causing so much havoc, that, shrieking and
yelling, they made for the nearest shore without returning a single
shot. We followed her, firing into her as fast as possible. On coming up
with her we found her aground, with six dead and one mortally wounded;
the remainder of the crew had saved themselves by wading to the shore.
After getting this prahu afloat, we brought the other prahu, which we
had just before captured (No. 4.), alongside. This boat was crowded with
dead and dying. Among the latter was a female child, apparently about
eight months old, in a state of nudity. The poor little creature's left
arm was nearly severed from its body by a grape shot. She was removed
into the boat, where the rest of the wounded were placed, with as much
care as possible. A low moaning sound escaped from her lips, her eyes
were glazed, and she evidently was fast dying: it would have been a
mercy to have put an end to her sufferings. The dead were then thrown
overboard, and the prahu set on fire; the last prahu, containing the
wounded, was left to her fate.
It was now daylight, and on looking around we perceived five more prahus
off a point between the gig and ourselves in the barge and several
others pulling in from seaward. We gave way for the five prahus, which
were drawn up in a line ready to receive us. Notwithstanding their fire,
assisted by their spears and other missiles, we pulled within fifteen
yards of the outermost prahu of the five, and discharged our gun,
accompanied by a volley of musquetry. The other prahus now closed and
poured in a heavy fire; but, although the barge was struck, not one of
our men was injured. The repeated fire from the boats soon caused the
people in the prahus to make for the shore through the water, when many
of them fell from our musquetry. It was now about six o'clock in the
morning, our last charge of canister shot was in the gun, the last
rocket in the tube, and nearly all the percussion caps expended. The
barge was pulled closer to the nearest prahu to give more effect to the
discharge, and the captain was in the stern of the barge with the rocket
tube in hand, when one of the prahus on shore fired her swivel; the ball
struck the captain, and knocked him overboard. He was hauled in, and we
found that he had received a severe wound in the groin, which was
dressed by the surgeon.
_Lieutenant Baugh_ now took the command, and the gun was discharged with
good effect, and all the people on board of the prahus, who were able to
escape, made for the shore. One of our marines was wounded in the neck
with an arrow, and, with the exception of the captain, no other casualty
took place.
The fight would have been continued with the round shot still left in
the barge, but the assistant surgeon was anxious that the captain should
return to the ship and have the ball extracted. The barge therefore
pulled for the ship, whose royals were just visible above the horizon.
The pirates, finding that we were retreating, returned to their prahus
and fired their guns at us, but without effect.