Carnival has been and gone, Lent is over and Easter festivals, with

sunny smile, have opened the gate to Spring. Upon the country that

spreads around our goodly Riviera city, the flush of almond blossoms

still lies rosily, to fade soon into the paler tones of pear and apple

and cherry bloom. The trees are budding, to help with their faint

green for contrast, but the green that is fullest at this time lies

over the fresh, brown earth, where spring crops have come to life and

are growing fast in the keen, sunlit air. Nursery gardens spread fair

and far about the town, with little white and trellis-covered cottages

in their midst for the husbandmen—gardens that have neat furrows

intersecting them for water-supply, and that make a rich show in market

produce. This is towards Albaro, on Genoa’s eastern side, and the low

front of Albaro’s hill is adorned with many a white old palace and the

slender columns of marble _loggias_ that are fresco-painted within.

From the town’s ramparts these many marble buildings have a great

effect, that stand amidst green gardens, with roofs lying upon a bright

sky, and—walking along the straight and dusty road that makes, towards

the sunrise, for the sea-shore, and is flanked on both sides with

arbutus trees—the white colonnades of the _Paradiso_ palace are before

you all the time to make you remember for ever after the look of marble

arches on a green hillside and a strong blue sky.

Among the streets the spring cannot make itself quite so well

remembered, nor can the sun have such an effect, but here, as

elsewhere, April, May, and even March have quite another beauty from

January. The sunlight is dashed even across the dark narrowness of Via

San-Luca, and streams across the Piazza Soziglia to light upon the very

counter of Signor Giordano’s shop. Surely bargains must be the less

sharply driven, and the smiles of fair purchasers the more persuasive!

But then Tuesday is the night of _la marchesa Bice’s_ ball, and one

must make one’s profit when one can, for in a small town, where the

people are proverbially stingy, ’tis not every day that business is to

be done!

_Il Signor Giordano_ is a great man in Genoa. He has the largest shop

for the novelties of fashion, and is moreover almost the only one of

the first _negozianti_ who go to London as well as to Paris for spring

and autumn modes. On the other hand, he is not _too_ expensive! He

has his own interest at heart, of course, but he thinks to further it

better by a judicious lowness of price than by an assumption of foreign

exorbitance, as some others do. Then he is not impervious to female

flattery, and something can be done with him in this wise! The windows

of Signor Giordano’s shop are of plate-glass. Years ago there were no

shops in Genoa that had plate-glass for windows, that had any windows

at all in fact, just as there were no _cittadine_, or cabs, in the

streets, and private carriages were so few that one could tell them all

apart by their liveries: just as there were no gas lanterns but only

oil lamps in the public thoroughfares. Even now the shops that have

real plate-glass windows are few enough, and those that have them so

broad and so fine as Signor Giordano are fewer still. His premises are

large, large for a provincial town of Italy—and his young shopmen are

civil, his goods deftly displayed in the window; all these advantages

go to make the store in Via Soziglia one of the town’s favourites. So

to-day it is well beset with female customers—prudent and economical

mammas, eager daughters, placidly lavish young matrons, who are

the most acceptable of all to Signor Giordano—everybody wants some

adornment, great or small, for the coming festivity. A neat brougham

stops at the door, whence there steps a slim-figured and pale-faced

little dame, tastefully dressed in the latest of Paris fashions. ‘It

is the _Contessa Capramonte, per Bacco_,’ says the foreman in the

front shop to the great Signor Giordano, who is reading his _Corriere_

behind. [The _Corriere_ is the great mercantile paper.] ‘Excellent!

Show her those new gauzes that we had last night;’ then advancing to

meet this most graceful of customers, ‘Your servant, madam,’ bows the

vender of fashions to their wearer; ‘what might be your ladyship’s

pleasure this afternoon?’

And soon the hopeful comer is on the usual high wooden stool before

the counter, all the new Paris gauzes displayed for her choice, with

a dark and tall and perfumed young man to show them off, and the

proprietor himself close at hand to take advice of, to jest and chat

with besides, as these Italian ladies are never afraid to jest with

their social inferiors. ‘Pretty,’ ejaculates she, admiringly, as the

tall young man crushes and drapes a citron-coloured gauze the better

for the sunlight to catch and beautify it! ‘But with that stuff I shall

need a silk dress of the colour besides; it will cost me too much!’

‘Truly your ladyship has the love of fun,’ laughs fat Signor Giordano

at her elbow; ‘we know pretty well what the _Contessa Capramonte_ has

for money!’ ‘Truly,’ pouts the pretty lady; ‘_you_ are a good husband

one can see. Do you not reflect on the face which that sour-visaged

Count will make when I bring him the bill, and have no more money, of

the poor pittance he gives me, to pay it with? Oh, but _I_ must reflect

upon it, however!’ ‘The bill will not arrive yet awhile, and then, when

the Signor Conte sees your ladyship in that dress, whose colour fits so

perfectly to the complexion, which is the talk of our town——!’ ‘Come,

have a care,’ laughs the lady back again, but with no foolish blush.

Then considering, while the fatal look of indecision comes slowly

to her pretty face, ‘for the rest you are right, Signor Giordano;

no colour suits me so well, and with an assortment of tea-roses——’

‘And the diamonds of the Capramonte family,’ puts in the great man,

dexterously. ‘Yes, with the diamonds, perhaps,’ ruminates she. ‘Holy

Madonna! it will be a sight for men to come from far and wide to see,’

murmurs the gauze vendor, fervently, and the dark youth ejaculates, ‘I

believe it!’ as he is paid to do.

‘Well, I suppose I must,’ sighs the customer, and then there comes

a question of quantity, and the Signor Giordano’s advice is again

required about the number of metres for skirt, tunic, scarf and bodice,

the which great matter cannot be decided until the manner of making

have also been chosen, for _la Contessa_ says that for economy she

is going to have this dress made at home by her maid! It is pretty

well certain the matter will be settled and unsettled over again at

least twenty times by maid and mistress when the latter gets home,

but meanwhile it pleases her to discuss it with the shopman, so forty

metres are at last pronounced to be the necessary amount, and the lady

can always have more afterwards, remarks the perfumed shop-youth with

appropriate judgment.

[Illustration: SHOPMAN AND PURCHASER.]

‘Two francs a metre, you said, did you not?’ asks the Countess,

innocently, watching the soft silk stuff being measured out. ‘Dear

madam, no; three francs,’ corrects Signor Giordano with all suavity,

and still the pale-coloured folds pass quickly through the hands of the

tall young man. His thumb is on the great scissors, he has counted the

forty metres, but ‘Stop, stop!’ cries the lady’s eager voice; ‘I must

do without the dress, then—for certainly all _that_ money, 120 francs,

_Dio_, never shall I obtain it from my husband! Pity,’ adds she, rising

gracefully, and replacing the high stool in its place, ‘for the colour

suits me to perfection, and the stuff pleases me; this satin stripe is

new, and looks well—but 120 francs—heaven forbid!’ ‘Eh, well,’ concedes

the shopman, glancing at his humble satellite over the counter, ‘what

do you think? For _such_ a customer it would be worth while to make a

reduction, is it not true? She would make such a figure, _per Bacco_!

Let us make it two francs and eighty centimes. For _you_ I will make a

sacrifice,’ adds _il Signor Giordano_, with an admiring bow, ‘only’—and

this in a lower tone—‘her ladyship will not mention the price.’ The

concession is indifferently well received. Scoffs the customer, with

a pretty toss of her small head, ‘I do not jest! Two francs a metre,

or else I buy my dress elsewhere; and if I cannot find another to my

taste, I stay at home to-morrow night.’ This is said poutingly, and

master and man utter at once a deprecating ejaculation. ‘Two francs!’

pleads the former; ‘sweet lady, I couldn’t do it! If heaven had

but been more generous to me, how proudly would I have made a gift

of the thing which has been fortunate enough to please you, but——’

‘Preposterous!’ laughs the beauty,’what a good thing that I know you!

Well—make it two francs and thirty _centesimi_! You will not? Oh, well,

I find my dress easily elsewhere. And there are to be many ladies

of great beauty at _la marchesa’s_ on Tuesday night. I should have

required silk for the skirt too!’ These parting shafts are sent home as

the lady retreats gracefully to the door. ‘_Addio_,’ nods she, and the

plate-glass swings to behind her, the citron-coloured gauze is folded

away off the counter. Yet both vendor and purchaser know well enough it

will be out again in a trice, and addressed, moreover, to the Palazzo

Capramonte.

So sure, in fact, is the shopman of this that when, five minutes later,

another and less constant customer sees, admires, and would purchase

that frail fabric, he is not afraid positively to state that forty

_metri_ of it are sold to the Contessa Capramonte; he is not ashamed

either, when asked the price by this next customer, to give it only

as two francs and fifty _centesimi_, but then this second lady is a

foreigner, and will not bargain, and the Signor Giordano knows exactly

how much to put on, because he knows how much a Genoese lady will have

off before she buys. Is it waste of time? Not at all, the shopman will

tell you—only part of the day’s work.

The _Contessa_ walks leisurely from Soziglia down the Via de’ Orefici,

and goes into a jeweller’s shop in this jewellers’ street, where,

over lumps of pale pink coral and finely-wrought trinkets of silver

and gilt-silver filigree, she plays her play over again, to come out

triumphant with a necklace, whose dainty lumps and loops and wires

are cunningly fashioned into leaves and roses. The necklace is not

for herself, for a Genoese lady despises the produce of that darkly,

strangely winding street, where the booths stand out freely to view,

and glitter with the light silver wares, or are rich with the red heavy

coral; but bargaining comes to her as second nature, so she has fought

none the less bravely over the trinket because the commission is for a

foreign friend. Thoughts of that dress have not strayed from her mind

all the same, and before the _Contessa_ drives out of Soziglia the

citron gauze has been purchased for two francs and fifty _centesimi_

the _metro_, which was the exact sum on which Signor Giordano meant

they should meet from the beginning; and silk to match, and flowers,

and ribbons have been added to the bill, all for something more than

the one, for something less than the other said at first. So _la

Contessa_ goes home to her palace at Carignano, where banksia roses are

blooming against the wall, and pink and white fruit-blossoms in the

_villa_, while a purple Judas-tree is a-flower before the house. And

the Signor Giordano goes home to the flat in Castelletto, where, though

it is five storeys high, flowers still bloom upon the terrace and over

the _pergola_, for winter is past, and we are in spring-time.

La Pettinatrice.

The Hairdresser.

Marrina has her hands full to-day; for though it is quite too hot for

early May—so hot that the first whiteness and crispness of a _pezzotto_

is gone before the week is out—there is to be a ball to-night, and a

ball in the sad old halls of the deserted Royal Palace; the king is

coming to Genoa—the king and the people’s favourite, our much-loved

Princess Margherita. Even the sparing Genoese do not grudge a little

money to be brightest and happiest on such an occasion. The people

and the shops are gay—the very streets, and walls, and houses seem

to shine with joy of the prospect; illuminations are preparing in the

public ways, the stalls of the _fioraje_ are well stocked, and on the

Acquasola the trees are a-flower, bright with green and wide spreading,

the air is sweet with acacia-scent and laburnum. Marrina lives without

the city’s gates, on the side towards the great cemetery. Why she lives

there, who knows, as she often says? For, although the way into town

is not further than even a buxom woman, like herself, can comfortably

do in half-an-hour, it is more trouble than it is worth, this being

obliged to pick up one’s petticoats, and turn out along the dusty

highway every blessed morning of one’s life—whether the sun be hot or

the _Tramontana_ bleak—just to coil, and plaster, and construct aloft

those heavy black masses of the Signora De Maroni’s hair! But, then, if

one always had a reason for everything one did, _Madonna_, life would

be a purgatory indeed! This is Marrina’s philosophy, and, indeed, the

rents are not so high without the walls, and one has a breath for one’s

money in summer time, if a colder blast in winter.

This morning there is little room for complaint of any sort. The

weary-white valley of the Bisagno opens out to the sea, and is,

perhaps, not beautiful in itself, because the shingle of its river’s

bed lies around so wide with so small a thread of water in its midst;

but, on either side of it, and beyond the dusty roads which hem its

margin, green slopes rise gently with palaces on their sides where they

are nearest the town, and with fruit trees in blossom and chestnut

trees in leaf, on the opposite slopes of Albaro, which the market

gardens of _manenti_ make green the sooner. Pinkest peach bloom is

over, but the cherry and the pear, and the tender-toned apple-blossom

have not cast all their flowers yet, while the may and the blackthorn

spread white and pink patches on hedge-rows inland, and, on the mossy

turf of the Quesia Valley some two miles ahead, violets bloom beneath

bright chestnut trees, and primroses on banks and boulders, faint

narcissus breathes a scent where the air plays freely, and cowslips

hang their heads in the sunshine. _La Pettinatrice_ does not often see

these things, it is true, for her own house stands nearer town upon

the high road, where the Bisagno is thick with the soap-suds of many

washerwomen who flog clothes upon hard flint, as they stand in its

stream. But she has an aunt who lives up there where the water flows

clean, and glides off mill-wheels into deep, green pools, and she has

plucked the faintly streaked tulips from out the new spring wheat, and

she knows the bloom of the fruit trees, though she is a town woman born

and bred.

The dust lies thick on the road; although the summer has scarce

begun, the sun shines hotly down, and Marrina is minded to spend two

_soldi_ that she may escape both dust and heat in a very insecure and

closely-packed conveyance that runs to the Virgin’s gate of Porta Pila.

Yet the sun is on Marrina’s broad back worse than ever, the dust whirls

in her face from the open door and the flies are numerous, but a little

altercation with the omnibus inmates makes up for all this and more.

There is a man who carries the most fragrant of truffles with stale

fish in a basket, and another who has just eaten freely of garlic and

onions, but both of them discourse well with the comely _pettinatrice_,

and she finds no fault in them. Marrina is a well-preserved woman

of some thirty years. She is, perhaps, a little more showy-looking

than some, even of the town-women of her age—that comes from her life

amongst many classes, and a little also because Marrina has no husband,

no home of her own, and no children. She has a shapely figure, that

is a little too short for its size, a full round throat which the

sun has burnt brown, a face that is one shade whiter than the throat,

and a fine head of black crimped hair, whereon her own craft is amply

displayed; her mouth is large, with full red lips and white teeth, her

cheeks are rosy, her eyes twinkle proudly, and she wears white thread

stockings and black shoes; her petticoats set out richly from her broad

hips, her dress is gaily patterned, her kerchief falls aside a little

at the neck, her hands are plump and smooth.

[Illustration: LA PETTINATRICE IN AN OMNIBUS.]

The gate-keeper at Porta Pila, the host of the Osteria degli Amici,

at the corner, the woman who sells fried fish two steps further on,

all greet _la pettinatrice_ as she comes across the drawbridge, with

swinging gait, to turn up the first road on the right. La Signora De

Maroni is the first to have her hair dressed, for she is a constant

customer; but other thoughts and wider plans are rife in Marrina’s

brain to-day, and she bestows but scant attention on this lady’s

well-greased plaits. The morning’s unfailing gossip loses none of its

excellence, however, for the grist is more rather than less plentiful

to the mill. ‘Does _vossignoria_ call to mind the linendraper’s wife

who used to rent the little house with the _pergola_ here above the

convent?’ ‘That little red-haired one? Well, what of her?’ demands the

lady sharply. She is a fine woman for her years, and has a handsome

pile of hair, but _hers_ is black, which is common-place, and besides

the linendraper’s wife is ten years younger! Marrina knows all this.

‘_Giusto_,’ she answers glibly, ‘what a wit your worship has, to be

sure! Red it _is_—red enough to scare the devil! Well, they’ve made

a failure, they don’t live up here; they’ve only got a bit of a place

now—you should see what a misery—down in Via Giulia!’ ‘Truly,’ murmurs

La Signora De Maroni, well pleased. ‘I should think she wouldn’t be on

the Acquasola to see the Princess, then?’ ‘I believe you, she won’t,’

laughs Marrina, crimping a poor handful of front hair as she speaks!

Then, taking a hairpin from between her teeth, where it has been held

for convenience, and placing it firmly through the towering structure

of her victim’s head, ‘She’s too vain to show herself without a new

silk dress! It’s quite ridiculous at her age! If it were yourself now,

one would understand!’ ‘Go away with you,’ laughs the flattered dame,

now holding the hot irons ready, to have the little flat curls of long

usage made and plastered upon her forehead! ‘Yes, yes, it is true,’

continues Marrina, ‘and yet what is youth good for, I say? Only to play

the fool. See there that new bride of Signor Parini, the goldsmith!

People made such a noise of her youth and her beauty—only fourteen

years old, and a wife! Well, how does she use it? Not been a mother

three months, and a mere chit of sixteen as she is, before they do

say’—and _la pettinatrice’s_ voice sinks to an impressive whisper which

la Signora De Maroni alone is able to hear.

But the daily erection is done, and Marrina has no time for gossip

this morning. ‘Does _vossignoria_ go to the opera to-night to see the

Princess?’ she asks, rolling down her sleeves again. ‘Eh, _povera me_!

No, indeed I do not,’ answers the lady! ‘Not even for a joke could

I persuade that wretch of a De Maroni to hire me a box! And he that

everyone tells me is so rich. Shame on him!’ Marrina laughs loudly.

‘They are all so, those husbands,’ she says. ‘The Virgin defend _me_

from one!’ And with a ‘_dunque domani_,’ she is gone. La Signora

De Maroni has neither so interesting a head nor so interesting a

conversation as many whose hair she will do this day, for Marrina has

twisted and combed and greased those black locks every morning for

the last five years; so, swiftly running down the ninety-four dark and

dirty steps, perhaps not with the lightest of footfalls, she is glad to

greet the cobbler again, who stitches in the portico, and to be out in

the spring air. There are two more subscribing clients to be finished

off, and after that who knows how many chance heads of ladies who are

going to the Princess’s ball?

The next customer lives up one of the fine new streets. She is not so

rich as the De Maroni, but she is noble, and has better hair—hair that

it’s a pleasure to stick the pins into, as la _pettinatrice_ has been

heard to say. Lilacs are blooming, with snowy guelder roses behind

the tall railings of private gardens in Via Serra, and the banksia

buds have grown so wildly that their long and flowering sprays fall

back over the wall into the street. Marrina plucks a blossom with

which to greet her customer. It is not hers to pluck, but why should

that signify, any more than it can signify she should make fun of the

_bourgeoise_ De Maroni with this younger and prettier rival of the

aristocracy, telling of the grey hairs that lie underneath, if only

you lift the well-greased black ones, and of how that old husband of

hers refused to spend his money to take her to the opera. ‘And with

reason,’ says Marrina for comment; ‘if the poor devil must needs spend

money, ’tis natural he should prefer to spend it for a pretty face.’

Then the lady laughs, and quite agrees, and they fall to the discussion

of this one and that one—for this customer is young, and has her many

gallants, and Marrina is always very useful for gossip and scandal.

_La signora_ is going to the opera, and then to the ball—not with her

husband, of course—and must needs consult Marrina about her toilet, for

a _pettinatrice_ sees the costume of many a fine lady, and can advise

so as to make or to mar many an evening’s happiness.

On this occasion the pretty countess gets many a hint, and knows what

most of the _marchese_ will wear to-night, so that she is able still

to devise—with _la pettinatrice’s_ help—some extravagance that shall

outvie them all. Fortunately for her, she is a favourite with Marrina,

and may trust just a little more to the discretion of Marrina’s tongue

than all the poor ladies who confided the secret of their toilets to

her yesterday—because, though her hands will work amongst hair till far

into the coming night, Marrina dressed many a head yester eve, whose

owner sat upright in a chair till this morning—nor thought anything

of it—for appearance sake! ‘Amuse yourself, Signora Contessa, and have

a care for that poor little marquis of last week, now that you have a

new gallant,’ says Marrina, deftly placing the last pile. ‘_Dio_, what

time I waste with you,’ adds she, as the church clock strikes! And she

is down the stair, down the street almost with the thought, and out

into the flower-strewn Acquasola, where the air is flushed with summer

sunshine, and waxen blossoms stand stiffly amid the broad leaves of

horse-chestnuts in the sloping avenue. La Marchesa Tagliafico lives

on the Salita dei Cappucini, where she can see the flowering creepers

against the tall old wall of the Villetta de’ Negri opposite, that

is now the new Acquasola, where she can hear the rush of the cascade,

and scent the limes and acacias off the public-gardens, and watch the

nobility driving round of a warm Sunday evening; where she is close

to the ancient Church of the Cappucini, besides, and can stand beneath

its cypresses two minutes after leaving home, to visit its _Presepio_

at Epiphany or its _Santo Sepolcro_ in Holy Week, to hear its _Frati

Predicatori_, to attend mass and buy waxen images on all or any of the

_festas_. La Marchesa is one of the devout; nevertheless she is to be

at the ball to-night, and Marrina is to do her hair.

Even _la pettinatrice’s_ goodly strength is well-nigh spent and her

fingers greased to the bone, before the last head is finished off,

for, in spite of her only having taken half-an-hour’s rest to see the

Princess drive round the gardens, it is midnight long past when the

final touch is put to the final Marchesa. The day’s work is over, but

Marrina does not go home to the tall house on the dusty road beyond

Porta Pila. She too must have her night’s recreation. Who would expect

the love of folly to be spent in a woman of that figure and those eyes,

even though her calendar count thirty birth-days? But after the gas-lit

night, the summer sunshine still comes back, bright and pure, and fresh

apple-blossoms blow beside _la pettinatrice’s_ home.

Fisher-Folk.

When the high road of the eastern Riviera has left the town behind

a space, and has even travelled clear of the last palaces without

the walls of the city of marbles—when it has crossed that tongue of

Albaro’s Hill that divides the waves, and, having left sea behind

in Genoa’s Bay, comes back to more sea that laps freely upon a free

and rocky coast—when it has coiled closely round corners and skirted

precipices for many a mile—it comes, on its way, across a little town

where the hills rise abruptly behind, and the orange groves are thick

around, and the villas of nobles lie sumptuously upon the shore.

North Italian Folk: Sketches of Town and Country Life · 第 3 / 14 段