DANDYISM.

MR. WHITE:--The Optimists assert that this little world of ours, is

continually and most marvellously improving in every thing. But,

begging their pardon, I humbly conceive that this is claiming rather

too much for its onward march towards perfectibility. Many notable

instances might be adduced to prove that it is so; but I will go no

further for such proof, than to contrast the Dandyism of the present

age with that of the olden time. This term (by the way) although of

modern coinage, is but a new name for an old thing. So old indeed,

that, like the common law, it may be traced back to a period beyond

which "the memory of man runneth not to the contrary." From the

multitude of its votaries and the indefatigable diligence with which it

has always been practised, it may justly be ranked among the arts;

although we must admit it to be one of no very difficult attainment by

any whose taste leads them to prefer general contempt to universal

esteem.

The great aim of this art being to mar effectually whatever beauty

either of person or countenance nature has bestowed on us, the task

would seem to be one of very easy accomplishment for most men. A simple

disfigurement therefore, would be no indication of genius, since the

visages upon which the laudable experiment is most frequently tried,

require very little aggravation to effect the object. But an entire

metamorphosis in the appearance of the whole animal, or at least such a

change as to render both its genus and species doubtful, being the

grand desideratum; it is _here_ that the modern Dandies have betrayed a

most woful and egregious poverty of invention, compared to those of

former times. Of this I shall presently offer indisputable testimony.

The Dandies of our day however, may justly claim the palm of

superiority, at least in _one_ particular; I mean, quo ad, _the head_,

both inside and out: for, what with internal emptiness and external

whiskers and mustaches, many have contrived to render not only the

features of the face "perfectly unintelligible," (if I may borrow a

phrase from the Pugilists,) but to disprove the long admitted dictum of

philosophy, that there is no such thing in all nature as a vacuum. An

instance of this most successful _face-marring_ has lately fallen under

my own observation, which I will endeavor to describe, although in

utter despair of doing justice to the original.

Many months ago, being in a much crowded public room, I was not a

little startled by the sudden appearance of a most fantastic, grim

looking biped moving among the crowd, which I first took for one of

those strange animals then showing about the country, that perhaps had

escaped from his keepers. A more deliberate view, however, from a

corner into which I had taken care to ensconce myself to keep out of

harm's way, soon satisfied me that it was nothing more formidable than

one of those harmless burlesques of manhood called Dandies, that so

much resemble the Simia genus, as hardly to be distinguished from them.

It had two large ropes (as they appeared to be) of tawny colored hair,

hanging out from between the collar and the cheek bones, and reaching

down some seven or eight inches over the breast. These I at first

supposed might be the skins of a water dog's fore legs, forming the

ends of some new fashioned comforter to keep the neck and cheeks warm

in cold weather, to which these bipeds are particularly sensitive. But

upon diligent inquiry among several, who seemed to be as much struck as

myself with so uncommon and apparently formidable a looking animal

moving upon two legs, instead of four, as might more reasonably have

been expected, we were informed that these tawny appendages, in regard

to which I had made such an egregious mistake, actually consisted of

the united hairs of the throat and cheeks, so elongated by

indefatigable culture, as to produce the grotesque appearance that had

so strongly excited the wonderment of us all. The whole was surmounted

by a pair of mustaches of the same tanned-leather color; which so

completely obscured the countenance, that not a particle of it was

discernible but the two lack-lustre eyes; and _the nose_, like a sort

of watch-tower overtopping the wilderness of shaggy hair by which it

was surrounded.

It is the recollection of this never to be forgotten figure of an

entire stranger, seen for the first and probably the last time in my

life, which induced me to claim for the Dandyism of the present day, a

decided superiority over that of the by-gone times; at least so far as

the disfigurement of the countenance can go towards the establishment

of so enviable a claim. That it is indisputable, I think certain; for

neither in the pictures nor histories of past ages which have reached

us, can any thing be found at all comparable to what I have just

endeavored to describe, but in language so inadequate, that I am almost

ashamed to send you this communication.

The bodily disfigurements of our modern Dandies having a great degree

of sameness in them, and being matters of general notoriety, 'tis

needless to particularise them. But to give you an opportunity of

judging whether I have unjustly charged them with poverty of invention,

when compared with their prototypes of the olden time, I beg leave to

present you with the description of an English Dandy of the fourteenth

century. It is taken from Dr. Henry's History of England, and he quotes

Camden, Chaucer, and Street, as his authorities.

"He wore long-pointed shoes, called _crackowes_ the upper parts of

which were cut in imitation of a church-window. The points of these

were fastened to his knees by gold or silver chains. He had hose of one

color on one leg, and of another color on the other; short breeches

which did not reach to the middle of his thighs, and disclosed the

shape completely; a coat, one half white, and the other half black or

blue; a long beard; a silk hood buttoned under his chin, embroidered

with grotesque figures of animals, dancing men, &c. and sometimes

ornamented with gold, silver, and precious stones. This dress, which

was the very top of the mode in the reign of Edward the Third, appeared

so ridiculous to the Scots, (who probably could not afford to be such

egregious fops,) that they made the following satirical verses upon it:

"Long beards hirtiless,

Peynted whoods witless,

Gay coats gracelies,

Maketh England thriftlies."

I would add to the above what the grave Doctor says of the fashionable

ladies of those times; but being a great friend to the "womankind," as

that queer, caustic old Batchelor Monkbarns used to call them, I

forbear to run the risk of their displeasure, by disparaging their sex

so much as I should be compelled to do, were I to repeat the Doctor's

words. And now, my good sir, confidently trusting that you yourself, as

well as your readers, will admit the irrefutable character of the

proofs which I have adduced to establish my assertions, I bid you

farewell, and remain

Your friend and constant reader,

The southern literary messenger, Vol. I., No. 5, January, 1835 · 第 82 / 97 题